A Vision for Wilderness Management and Primitive Recreation in the South Central Adirondacks Bill Ingersoll Get Out. Seek Out. FIND OUT. www.HikeTheAdirondacks.com Published January 2015 WILD RIVER Press 7123 Trenton Road Barneveld, NY 13304 All photos & maps by Bill Ingersoll unless otherwise noted Front cover: Camping at Middle Lake, Wilcox Lake Wild Forest Back Cover: Hiking to Peaked Mountain, Siamese Ponds Wilderness South Lake, West Canada Lake Wilderness Contents Introduction Historical Background for the South Central Adirondacks Planning for Primitive Recreation in a Wild Setting Southern Black River Wild Forest: An Unprotected Wilderness The North Creek Lakes: A Missed Opportunity The Sacandaga Valley Seven The Siamese Ponds: A Wilderness Connection West Canada Lake Wilderness: A Fragile Resource Crane Mountain: Room for Expansion Preserving the Wild Core Conclusion 1 3 6 8 10 13 17 20 23 25 28 Cascade Pond, Blue Ridge Wilderness 1 T his document represents my detailed thoughts and ideas on the management of the so-called “Great South Woods,” a section of the Adirondack Forest Preserve that is the subject of a recreation-focused planning project spearheaded by DEC, APA, SUNY-ESF, and others. I attended the project kick-off meeting in Speculator on December 17, 2014, and while I was glad to see such a tremendous public turnout, I felt that the format of the meeting (intended to engage as many participants as possible) did not permit a detailed discussion by those individuals who truly do know this part of the Forest Preserve well. Therefore I have outlined in writing my thoughts on the Great South Woods project in this report. I have been thoroughly exploring the southern Adirondacks since 1997, when I fell in love with wilderness recreation on a family trip to North Lake in the Black River Wild Forest. During the past eighteen years I have hiked the vast majority of the area’s trails (including the unmarked ones) and paddled many of its waters. Since 2006 I have been the author and publisher of the Discover the Adirondacks series of guidebooks, which was created by the late Barbara McMartin. These books are more than just recreational guides, in my opinion: they are an inventory for the Forest Introduction Preserve, listing all of the known trails, unmarked footpaths, and bushwhack destinations for each region. In recent years I have updated four of the books falling within the Great South Woods (GSW) region. I released the fifth edition of Discover the Southern Adirondacks in November 2014—a beefy 520-page reference to everything south of Route 8 and west of the Northway. Discover the South Central Adirondacks was issued earlier in 2014, with notes on every route and destination worth visiting in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness. Discover the West Central Adirondacks (2013) describes the West Canada Lake Wilderness and Moose River Plains Wild Forest—two of the best wild land resources in the Adirondack Park—while Discover the Southwestern Adirondacks (2013) covers the Black River Wild Forest south of Old Forge. While these are nominally guidebooks intended to help hikers, paddlers, and skiers plan their next adventures, I also regard these latest editions as detailed references—the “owner’s manuals” to the Forest Preserve, geared towards the primitive forms of recreation that I espouse. They list all of the most interesting natural features and historic sites I have been able to find, as well as every official and unofficial trail that anyone might be willing to explore. Because I am an avid backpack- er, the new editions include sample itineraries for point-topoint hikes across each of the regions (including one potential “lodge to lodge” hike across the Siamese Ponds Wilderness that takes advantage of commercial facilities strategically located near two public trailheads). In the course of researching these books, I have accumulated a personal inventory of trail data that seems to exceed most state and commercial maps I’ve ever seen—all of it derived from my own firsthand experiences exploring and leading trips in this region, and with the assistance of my contributors. The books also contain detailed historical information on the Forest Preserve, telling the story of how many of our wild lands were exploited in the past. This backstory was researched by studying old forest commission reports and contem- 2 porary newspaper accounts. The knowledge that I applied in creating these books has been reapplied in this document. Although I can’t claim to have been everywhere in the region, very little of this forest is hypothetical to me; I have experienced many rewarding days and nights here, and there are many places that I cannot wait to see again. As someone who already knows this region of the Forest Preserve extremely well, I felt constrained by the basic level of discussion that was conducted at the December kickoff meeting for the GSW project. I agree with the overall assessment that the meeting was successful in its ability to engage nearly all of the attendees, but I had a hard time understanding how the broad range of ideas that was expressed (and the un-prioritized manner in which they were jotted down) would be helpful to any state planner. There is something to be said for a meeting that is led by subject matter experts, with a clear statement of what is in and out of scope. In theory, DEC and APA staff should be the experts on Forest Preserve management, since as planners and foresters this is their professional focus. Public input is a very important element, but many high-level policy directions regarding the Forest Preserve have already been determined through the continued public support of Article XIV of the state constitution, and the im- plementation of the State Land Master Plan. Therefore if the GSW project meetings are to generate any meaningful input from the public, there needs to be more structure to the discussions held at the open workshops, and clearer constraints to eliminate fruitless digressions about such things as ATV access and groomed ski trails, which are legally impossible in the Forest Preserve. Furthermore, the scheduling and location of the meetings— midweek, in the communities within the GSW region—assumes that knowledge of the Forest Preserve increases with residential proximity. The truth is that the people with the best up-to-date knowledge of our backcountry areas are those who recreate there frequently. Such people are just as likely to come from Poughkeepsie as they are Piseco. However, someone who is free to explore the Forest Preserve on the weekend is unlikely to be able to attend a meeting held on a workday more than an hour’s drive from home. Therefore the GSW project leaders could do a better job at engaging knowledgeable individuals from outside the Adirondack Park. If local business owners are the project’s primary participants, then the final report will be shaped by economic self-interests, not environmental protection. residents of St. Lawrence County to describe the Adirondack Park in general. For everybody else, this region is known as the “North Woods” or “North Country.” The GSW name was highly criticized during the December kickoff meeting, and I must concur that it is not an apt name for the region. A more accurate description might be “South Central Adirondacks,” a phrase that I have used several times throughout this document. All of this aside, I do have plenty of ideas for improving the trail system of the south central Adirondacks, particularly in regards to its ability to accommodate primitive forms of recreation: hiking, bushwhacking, skiing, and paddling. In my view, the wildness of this region is its biggest attraction, and it is the element that should be preserved against all other threats. The Forest Preserve is first and foremost a wild resource, and the wilderness characteristics of the south central Adirondacks are the region’s primary trait. An increase in road or snowmobile trail mileage would diminish this wildness and make the area less attractive to the people who are already drawn to its solitary spaces. Recreation is an important aspect of Forest Preserve management, and it is through recreation that people like myself become knowledgeable about this important state resource. But any recreation plan for the south central AdironFinally, I need to question the dacks should regard wildness as choice in the name “Great South the primary attraction, not as an Woods.” This is a term used by impediment. 3 I Historical Background for the South Central Adirondacks t seems paradoxical that a forest so large, so undeveloped, could exist in such close proximity to the Erie Canal corridor, which was once the economic and industrial artery of the state. Yet here it is, a wilderness where residents of the Mohawk Valley and Capital District can scoot north and indulge in some of the finest woodlands in North America. To understand the trail system for the south central Adirondacks, it helps to have a basic knowledge of the area’s history. The Forest Preserve holdings are so vast in the GSW region, especially along the southern boundaries of the park, for two reasons: the original Adirondack Park blue line focused the state’s first land acquisition efforts here, and because abundant amounts of timberland were so available in this region at the end of the nineteenth century. At a time when Adirondack logging was dominated by the mills at Glens Falls, places like the modern Silver Lake Wilderness and Ferris Lake Wild Forest were deemed to be too remote and too poor in their spruce content, especially compared to places closer to the Hudson River. Some parcels in the town of Morehouse were sold to the state as virgin forests, for the premium price of $7 an acre. Many other tracts had only been harvested for red spruce and eastern hemlock, and then returned to the state at an early date. Although not technically “virgin,” there are large swaths of forest in the south central Adirondacks that have long since regrown to mature conditions. Lands acquired by the state have often included the sites of forgotten settlements and public highways, the relics of an earlier day when wilderness preservation was the furthest thing from anybody’s mind. The Annual Report of the Forest Commission for the Year 1893, Volume II, provided a list of public highways commissioned by the state legislature throughout the nineteenth century, including those that later became parts of the Forest Preserve. Aber and King’s History of Hamilton County mentions a number of similarly forgotten town roads. Hamilton County was poorly mapped until the USGS began to issue topographic quadrangles at the turn of the century, so understanding the development of the region’s road system—especially in regards to the wilder sections that later became Forest Preserve trails— can be quite difficult. It is possible that some of these roads were never completed, which might explain why they became unused and forgotten. Human activity in the backwoods was in no way limited to logging, although it is true that lumbering and tanbarking were the primary sources of employment in what later became the Forest Preserve. The southern Adirondacks contain the ruins of numerous small sawmills and tanneries, a few of them far from the nearest modern road. For example, one can hike to mill ruins at Glasgow Millpond, Holmes Lake, Pinnacle Creek, and elsewhere on state land. These mills specialized in a variety of wood products, including barrel staves and bungs, clothespins, and furniture rungs. One mill in Arietta may have been connected to the hamlet of Stratford (where its owner lived) by a tram railroad with wooden rails in the 1840s. The only logging railroad in the southern Adirondacks was located near Jerseyfield Road in today’s Ferris Lake Wild Forest; many steel rails can still be found along the rail bed. Mining also left its mark on the landscape, especially near Gore Mountain. The gaping pit of the Hooper garnet mine above Thirteenth Lake is a man-made oddity within the Siamese Ponds Wilderness; several small outbuildings from this mine, not inventoried in DEC’s unit management plan, still stand nearby on state land. In the 1880s there 4 was a flurry of interest in gold and silver mining in today’s Silver Lake Wilderness near Benson. Contemporary newspaper accounts suggested that large amounts of earth were being moved to uncover fabulous riches, but in reality the wilderness was hardly disturbed. I have only found one small pit in the bed of Goldmine Creek, where two small milling machines can still be found. I strongly suspect that the gold mining schemes were little more than invest- ment scams. Much of today’s wild landscape was once cleared farmland. Little is known about some of the more remote sites like Curtis Clearing in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness, or Devorse Creek and Whitehouse in the Silver Lake Wilderness. The early residents eluded census takers and are only vaguely mentioned in regional histories, if at all. Perhaps some of these people were regarded as social outcasts. The Farm plow at Devorse Creek, Silver Lake Wilderness Northrups farmed at Whitehouse, a site on the West Branch Sacandaga that later became a sportsmen’s lodge operated by the Lawrence and Fountain families. Old Farm Clearing (identified mysteriously as an “Indian clearing” on one old map) might have serviced the extensive logging operations in Township 13, before it too became a hunting and fishing lodge. A camp on Devorse Creek deep within the Silver Lake Wilderness, located along the abandoned Wells and Bleecker state road, was undoubtedly farmed. A cabin located here was occupied by the father and son hermits Daniel and Seth Wadsworth; the younger man was eventually evicted as a squatter on state land by the Conservation Commission circa 1915, and later became a watchman at the Cathead Mountain fire tower. The Wilcox Lake Wild Forest was significantly smaller a century ago because its fringes had been cleared for agriculture. It is hard to visualize today, but much of the East Branch Sacandaga valley from Griffin to Oregon (along today’s Route 8) was farmland, although state forest commissioners who visited the area in 1895 held the occupants in low regard. Bartman Road near Bakers Mills provided access to several lost farms that extended high up into the hills. The Baldwin Spring area is the site of a robust community once known as West Stony Creek; in its day, it was one of the remotest farming settlements in 5 the Adirondacks. Bakertown, located on a lost state highway between Wells and Stony Creek, was still being used for cattle grazing when a forest ranger reforested the area in 1918 with 75,000 white pine saplings. The most unusual lost settlement in the Forest Preserve of the south central Adirondacks is the site of Little Canada, near Indian Lake in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness. This land had been purchased as part of the Township 15 acquisition from Finch Pruyn in 1897, which added such landmarks as Chimney Mountain and the Indian Lake dam to the state’s holdings. Since becoming the predominant landowner in Indian Lake in the mid-1800s, Finch Pruyn had sold off many lots within the township to individual settlers over the years. However, the company did not keep a good record of these sales. After the state bought the land, it soon became clear that this “forest” included quite a few farms, and that the state did not have a clear title to the entire tract. A special court was established in 1914 to review all the land claims, and anyone who could provide a record of their purchase from Finch Pruyn could keep their lands. The residents of Little Canada were found to be squatters, and the state’s title was upheld. Therefore the farms were evacuated and the fields reforested with pines. Today, only a handful of foundations and one small cemetery remain to mark the location of the settlement. Ore mill at Goldmine Creek, Silver Lake Wilderness Unlike the High Peaks region to the north, where tourists came to explore the mountainous landscape on foot, the early recreational focus for the southern Adirondacks was hunting and fishing. Guides maintained trails to their favored sporting grounds, and these routes were typically marked by axe blazes. In the absence of detailed maps and trail signs, Forest Preserve visitors were reliant upon local knowledge to get around— hence the need for guides. There was no such thing as a marked state trail until the Conservation Commission became the preserve’s primary steward in the 1910s. Automobiles made the public much more independent, and the arrival of paved roads made it easier for city and suburban residents from outside the Adirondack Park to travel to the Forest Preserve for weekend recreation. These factors, combined with the availability of the first detailed topographic maps from the USGS, made outdoor 6 explorers more self-sufficient than they had ever been before. Recognizing that there were more people striking into the woods on their own, the Conservation Commission began to mark trails for the first time circa 1919, using colored disks and brown signs to replace the traditional axe blazes. The intent was to make it possible for even inexperienced outsiders to navigate safely through the woods. Over the course of the next decade, the state developed a park-wide system of trails and lean-tos, as well as roadside campsites at places where motorists were already tending to congregate. A popular tent platform program allowed anyone to build semi-permanent camping structures on state land by applying for a permit. All of this was part of a concentrated effort to get the public engaged with the Forest Preserve through recreation, I and in the process the Conservation Commission (renamed the Conservation Department in 1927) developed the park aesthetic that we now find so familiar in the twenty-first century. However, very little planning went into this recreational development, and the state was only marking trails along preexisting routes, such as old roads and guides’ trails. Because these traditionally stuck to lower elevations, there were very few hiking trails to mountain summits in the southern Adirondacks. The only exceptions were the fire tower trails (where mountain climbing was quite popular) or places like Chimney Mountain (where a lodge owner cut a trail for the amusement of his guests). The vast majority of trails led to ponds and lakes, even though the forest fires of the early twentieth century had opened numerous vistas on the surrounding mountains. Even today, there are only a handful of marked state trails to non-tower summits in the south central Adirondacks. Prior to the proliferation of snowmobiles, nearly all trails were foot trails. After World War II, though, snowmobiles and jeeps began to infiltrate recesses of the Forest Preserve that had only been accessible by foot or horseback. As a result, the modern notion that “wildness” equaled the absence of motor vehicles was born. Action was needed lest the wilderness quality of the Forest Preserve be permanently lost. The SLMP, first issued in 1972, codified this aesthetic by prohibiting motor vehicles from fifteen designated wilderness areas throughout the park, and by prescribing that motorized use of the wild forests be capped and otherwise not encouraged. Planning for Primitive Recreation in a Wild Setting t should be stressed that there are far more trails in the Forest Preserve than the DEC has inventoried, and that few areas are truly “trailless.” Further, DEC Region 6 has inventoried certain “roads” in the western Adirondacks (including the Black River Wild Forest within the scope of the GSW project) that fail to meet SLMP criteria for motor vehicle use. I have therefore prepared a series of maps illustrating the GSW region as I know it, focusing on selected parts of the Forest Preserve. These maps are based on the GPS data that I gathered while researching my guidebooks. The key feature of the Forest Preserve is its wildness, and this characteristic is what must be preserved against all other concerns. When the APA first zoned the preserve in 1972 into wilderness and wild forest areas, these two classifications were staggered across the GSW region like a giant checkerboard. The areas chosen for the wilderness classification were truly deserving, containing some of the preserve’s most rugged terrain. But most of the wild forests also included sections with high wilderness potential, particularly certain core areas in 7 between the snowmobile trails where opportunities for solitude are high. These places survive unmolested today, even though state policy carries no guarantees for their protection. The array of wild forests along the park’s southern boundary has been called a “crescent” where a greater amount of recreational development could occur. So far, though, most of this development has been in the form of snowmobile trails, and opportunities for quality primitive recreation—i.e., areas where motorized vehicles are largely absent—remain somewhat scant in the wild forests. My maps identify numerous mountains scattered across the entire region that feature good views. If there is one easy way to make this part of the Forest Preserve more attractive to a larger number of people, it is to cut a few trails up some of the more peripheral peaks so that people can climb them and see how vast and beautiful the south central Adirondacks really are. for this area have looked past the current trail layout, or have tried to understand the almost accidental nature of how the network was developed in the past. While I would prefer to see the wild cores of the forest left unmolested—or even enhanced and enlarged if possible—there is still plenty of room for recreation development in the peripheral zones, close to hamlets and travel corridors. With so much interconnection between the various state land tracts, this is certainly a region that could benefit from regional management. Few of the UMPs that have been produced The following pages list some of my specific proposals for enhancing primitive recreation opportunities in the southern Adirondacks without degrading its wild character. 8 Southern Black River Wild Forest: A An Unprotected Wilderness prime example of a wild forest with wilderness characteristics is the section of the Black River Wild Forest south of North Lake Road. At least two-thirds of this area meets wilderness standards as defined by the SLMP, and should be reclassified. This is the zone marked as the proposed “Cotton Lake Wilderness” on the accompanying map. Three private inholdings would need to be excluded, and DEC would need to evaluate whether the landowners have deeded rights to operate motor vehicles on state land, but otherwise the Cotton Lake Wilderness could be designated without any impacts to active snowmobile trails. The proposed Cotton Lake Wilderness includes several small ponds, a section of likely old growth forest, and a former reservoir. The state’s canal commission built a dam at Twin Lakes in the 1880s, turning these two small ponds into a shallow reservoir. Portions of the old masonry dam still stand at the outlet. Although the modern Canal Corporation did not transfer the abandoned reservoir bed to the Forest Preserve until 2006, the lakes have long since returned to a natural condition. Most of the area was acquired by the state long ago, with maturing forests now found throughout the proposed wilderness. A handful of old logging roads in the vicinity of Cotton Lake and Twin Lakes Marsh appear to be the result of salvage operations after the 1950 hurricane; they now form the basis of an informal trail network. The subtle, non-mountainous nature of the terrain is probably what caused it to be overlooked by state planners. However, the absence of spectacular scenery is also what makes Cotton Lake such a strong wilderness candidate: few people go there, and it offers outstanding opportunities for solitude. The Cotton Lake Wilderness is bounded on the east by routes that DEC Region 6 has inventoried as “roads.” It is true that motor vehicles (ATVs and snowmobiles) use these routes for recreation and to access private inholdings. The Herkimer Landing Road was possibly a town highway in a prior century; based on its current appearance it was probably last maintained by the defunct Town of Wilmurt, which was abolished in 1918 after complaints of mismanagement. The road features an ancient concrete bridge over Big Brook that was built for automobiles, but both the bridge and the road have deteriorated into such an unusable condition that the route now fails to meet the SLMP definition of a road. A connecting trail in the vicinity of Little Salmon Outlet, called the “South Shore Road” on some DEC maps, is little more than a muddy trail. Under no circumstances should these ways be considered “roads” in the SLMP sense! A decade ago, DEC Region 6 proposed converting these two roads into an automobile through-way from Nobleboro to South Lake. Such an action would destroy this area’s remote, wild quality, and it would violate the SLMP. This part of the Forest Preserve requires more scrutiny on the part of APA planning staff to ensure compliance with the master plan. The North Creek Lakes: A A Missed Opportunity nyone who has ever visited the corner of the Ferris Lake Wild Forest between Arietta and Stratford may be curious as to why there is a Third and Fourth lake here, but no First and Second. The answer is simple: the two numbered ponds are part of a group of backcountry waters that was widely known as the North Creek Lakes in the nineteenth century, after the stream that transmitted their combined output into the East Canada Creek. The first lake in the chain was named Waters Millpond, after a William Waters who farmed and ran a sawmill on its outlet during the Civil War era. The second lake was called Long Lake. Although the collective name for the chain appeared on old maps, it was dropped for unknown reasons in the twentieth century by the USGS. 11 backpacking, but the management of this area has rarely considered anything beyond winter snowmobiling. There are several reasons for this claim. First, several of the trails suffer from poor drainage and excessive wetness, with no attempts to harden them through the use of bog bridging or relocation. One of the prettiest segments in this network is the portion that hugs the southeast shore of Third Lake; what should be an attractive trail with good views of the water is instead marred by the fact that much of the walking surface is a boggy mess. A simple reroute a few feet inland onto higher ground would resolve this issue. The four North Creek Lakes lie in a pocket of forest bearing a richness of water, with neighbors that include Nine Corner Lake, Good Luck Lake, Dexter Lake, and Spectacle Lake. The lands within Fulton County were acquired in the mid-twentieth century from the West Virginia Pulp and Paper Company, which had a mill in Mechanicville on the Hudson River. The paper company built a network of unimproved roads to most of the ponds, but they floated their pulp logs out to Knappville via North Creek. Here, the logs could be more easily loaded onto trucks for shipment to the mill. Today, most of the old logging roads serve as part of Fulton County’s snowmobile trail system. Such a dense collection of scenic lakes so close to two state highways should also be a boon for summer hiking and Second, the signage is unhelpful for non-snowmobilers, because signs at most of the trail junctions point to the surrounding towns and their commercial establishments, not the interior destinations. Ideally, trail signs should help novice hikers find key landmarks. This is especially important in a place like the North Creek Lakes, where the sheer number of intersections makes the trail network very confusing. Family members have told me that they grew discouraged hiking here because the signs did not help them reach their destination. Third, the snowmobile trail network contains a few gaps that are difficult to fill in the summer. This is especially true at Spectacle Lake, where trails from the west, east, and south can only be connected when the water 12 is frozen. Bushwhackers can follow the shore to make these connections, but the average hiker would not be willing to make such an effort. The area is located quite close to Gloversville and Johnstown, and it is frequented by residents of that area. It is also within easy reach of Utica and Albany. No fewer than seven good trailheads service the trail network, and because none of the ponds are very remote these lakes have the potential to become an exemplary setting for pointto-point hiking. With better trail connections, a variety of loops could be planned—suitable for day hiking and easy backpacking. A few of the lakes have good campsites, although litter seems to be an issue. Specifically, trails should be built around the eastern and northern shores of Spectacle Lake, which is indisputably the largest and most dynamic water body in the area. These trails should connect the three snowmobile trails that lead to the lake, making it easier to hike from one end to the other. Another trail should provide a direct connection between Long Lake and Waters Millpond, providing a continuous hiking trail to all four North Creek Lakes. View from West Stony Mountain, Shaker Mountain Wild Forest Because camping is unevenly distributed here—much of it occurring on the Arietta side of the forest—a series of lean-tos should be built near the shorelines. Third Lake, Long Lake, Waters Millpond, Dexter Lake, and Spectacle Lake are all excellent lean-to candidates. Building all five lean-tos would inspire people to travel around the trail network, and to return to the area multiple times. All of these changes could be implemented without altering the snowmobile trail system in any way. 13 G The Sacandaga Valley Seven uides in Keene Valley and Saint Huberts were not shy about cutting trails up the High Peaks, because trails were good for business. In a region with outstanding mountain scenery, climbing was the main reason people traveled to that part of the Adirondacks. But with the exception of Crane Mountain in Warren County, there seems to have been little interest in mountain climbing in the southern Adirondacks, where hunting and fishing were more popular. It wasn’t until the twentieth century, when the Conservation Commission began to erect fire towers at strategic locations, that hikers took a broader interest in climbing the mountains of the southern Adirondacks. For many years, the fire tower trails were the only marked ascents in the entire region, with very few exceptions. Even today marked state trails to non-tower summits are rare, and are easily listed: Chimney Mountain, Good Luck Mountain, Peaked Mountain, Echo Cliffs, Severance Hill, and Sawyer Mountain in the twentieth century, and Ledge Mountain, Moxham Mountain, and Balm of Gilead Mountain in the twenty-first. In a mountainous region spanning two million acres, this is a pathetically small number. The lack of mountain trails in no way reflects an absence of desirable mountains. The Discover books have long inventoried dozens of mountains with fine views, often caused by the forest fires of a century ago. But most of these remain the solitary haunts of bushwhackers, too difficult for most people to find. I am certainly not proposing that all mountains in all locations be subject to trail building. However, there is unquestionably room for improvement. When looking at a map of the region I see a hole in the trail system stretching from Northville to Speculator, where no mountain trails exist despite a wealth of mountains. Previously, there were two fire towers in this area: Hamilton, which was removed, and Cathead, which was closed due to a property dispute. If someone in Wells feels the urge to climb a mountain, they need to drive many miles to find a mountain trail— even though Wells, an attractive hamlet on the Sacandaga River, is surrounded by plenty of mountains of its own. I frequently hear non-bushwhackers bemoan the loss of access to the Cathead fire tower in the town of Benson. I did have the opportunity to climb that mountain in 2008 at the invitation of the landowner, and the view was indeed quite good. But I know of no forthcoming resolution to that property dispute, and therefore have no reason to expect public access to be restored. However, I have climbed extensively throughout this region, and I know of many small peaks throughout the Sacandaga watershed with excellent views: Mount Francisco, the Long Pond cliffs, Extract Ridge, Buckhorn Mountain, the Shanty Cliffs, Eleventh Mountain, the “Moose’s Hoof” near Griffin, Finch Mountain, Southerland Mountain, Huckleberry Mountain, Moose Mountain near Pumpkin Hollow, Rand Mountain, West Stony Mountain, Big Oak Hill, and Mud Lake Ridge. Although I have not been there, I know that Corner, Macomber, and Little Cathead mountains also have views; Cattle Mountain might be worth a look someday. Not a single mountain on this extensive list has a trail. Looking over this roster of beautiful mountains, I see seven that stand out as non-remote destinations that would appeal to casual hikers as well as the veterans, if trails were constructed to their tops: 1. Mount Francisco – This small mountain between Piseco and Lake Pleasant was partially burned and offers views of the Hamilton Mountain Range. Although located in the Silver Lake Wilderness, it stands very close to Route 8. A trailhead parking area could easily be built near the site of an old rock quarry on 14 state land, with a mile-long trail to the bald spot. 2. Eleventh Mountain – A shoulder of this mountain in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness features excellent views of the wilderness interior. There is an existing trailhead on Route 8 near Bakers Mills. 3. Moose’s Hoof – This is my nickname for a small foothill of Moose Mountain on the Hamilton-Warren county line near Griffin. The foothill rises directly above the highway and features views of Buckhorn Mountain. It is served by the under-utilized Georgia Creek trailhead on Route 8. 4. Huckleberry Mountain – Rising above Murphy Lake in the Wilcox Lake Wild Forest, this is the remotest summit on the list—but the hike past Bennett, Middle, and Murphy lakes would presumably be part of the appeal. All of these lakes are already popular destinations, and the trail up Huckleberry would become an attractive side trip. 5. Moose Mountain – The Wilcox Lake Wild Forest Draft UMP proposed a trail to this summit near Pumpkin Hollow in 2006, but that plan was never completed. The UMP’s proposal was to build a trail from the Sacandaga Campground, but a route from the Coulombe Creek trailhead on Pumpkin Hollow Road might be more practical. 6. Rand Mountain – Likewise, the 2006 draft UMP proposed a trail loop to this small mountain near Hope Falls. There are several ledges with views of East Stony Creek and its environs. A loop that incorporates the summit with all three waterfalls on Tenant Creek would be an outstanding recreational asset for the Northville region. 7. West Stony Mountain – The Adirondack Mountain Club is currently extending the Northville-Placid Trail through the Shaker Mountain Wild Forest south of Benson. A portion of this new route already exists near Collins Gifford Valley Road, leading to Mud Lake and a little beyond. Several small summits surround this tiny pond, and most of them feature good views. The best can be found on West Stony Mountain, overlooking the creek of the same name. It would not be difficult to build a spur from the NPT to the summit. Puffer Pond, Siamese Ponds Wilderness There has been a surge in popularity in programmatic hiking challenges, in which participants earn patches for completing certain trails. Clifton-Fine sponsors the Cranberry Lake 50 program, and Hamilton County offers patches for fire towers and waterfalls. More recently, hikers can earn recognition for hiking the “Saranac 6.” If any such program is to be duplicated in the southern Adirondacks, then there must first be trails to attract people. The seven mountains above—most of which are located within easy reach of hamlets and paved state highways—could collectively become the “Sacandaga Valley Seven,” with a patch issued by local government. Rather than focusing on the loss of Cathead, climbers could celebrate the varied views from these very fun small mountains. Vistas would include the East Branch Sacandaga River, and the distant mountains of the Silver Lake and Siamese Ponds wilderness interiors. In the course of completing the challenge, hikers would pass through Northville, Wells, Speculator, Lake Pleasant, Piseco, and Bakers Mills. My maps show a plethora of peaks in the Forest Preserve with good views (see page 7). Building trails up all of these would be impractical and undesirable. Mountains such as Southerland and Finch should remain bushwhack destinations for those people who delight in challenges. Nevertheless, the proposed Sacandaga Valley Seven list is just an example of how non-remote mountains could become exceptional hiking destinations, for the benefit of both the public and local communities. Additional mountains that should have trails include Moose, Baldhead, and Burnt mountains near Stony Creek; and Ledge, McGinn, and Big Pisgah mountains near Indian Lake. 17 The Siamese Ponds: I A Wilderness Connection consider the Siamese Ponds Wilderness to be the archetypical wild area, because its diversity of terrain—everything from mountains to ponds to wetlands and rivers—includes a little bit of everything that the Adirondacks are known for. It is also reasonably accessible throughout the year, since most of its trailheads are maintained during the winter. This combination of large size, impressive ruggedness, and proximity to civilization makes it unique in the Adirondack Park. The Siamese Ponds Wilderness occupies the space between the hamlets of Speculator, Indian Lake, Bakers Mills, and North Creek, with key trailheads located near all four communities. The area is already a tremendous asset to Hamilton and Warren counties, but with just a little tweaking it become even better. NEW TRAILS The trail network in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness is already quite extensive. The unit management plan recognizes a “trailless” area in the southern part of the unit, although in my observation only the remotest core near South Pond is truly trackless. The network contains a medley of marked and unmarked trails. The marked trails are adequate for current purposes, but the addition of a few key links could complete the system and provide better connections between the surrounding communities. 1. McGinn Hill to Clear Pond and John Pond: A trail connecting John Pond with Route 28 at McGinn Hill would provide a new trailhead just outside of Indian Lake, within easy walking distance of the downtown commercial district. It would allow backpackers to travel through the wilderness, exit near the hamlet, and then continue northward into the Essex Chain region if they so wished. 2. Baldface Mountain: A popular trail already exists on the western slopes of this small mountain. It begins at Norman Cove on Indian Lake and leads to a ledge with a very photogenic view of the lake. However, this trail is only accessible by boat. It is possible to build a second trail to the summit across the Crotched Pond Conservation Easement, offering a land-based route to the lookout. The existing Round Pond Brook trailhead would be the starting point. 3. Siamese Ponds to Kings Flow: A few miles of additional trail near the heart of the wilderness would allow hikers to complete a spectacular loop between the East Branch Sacandaga, Thirteenth Lake, and Kings Flow. This loop could be accessed from several trailheads, and it would require several days to follow. Currently, the Siamese Ponds are reached by following a dead-end trail from the Eleventh Mountain trailhead. The loop would allow better disbursement and more enjoyable trip options; hikers making the circuit through the wilderness interior would be somewhat less likely to encounter each other, experiencing a stronger sense of solitude as a result. These additional trail segments would not degrade the wilderness and wild forest character of the lands they cross, but they are necessary components to the regional network. LODGE-TO-LODGE BACKPACKING One of the goals of the Great 19 South Woods project is to identify opportunities for “lodge to lodge” hiking in the region. The real question to be asked is whether there are existing commercial lodging facilities that are located in close proximity to state trailheads. In the case of the Siamese Ponds Wilderness the answer is yes, there are two. The Cabins at Chimney Mountain near Indian Lake offers vacation rentals clustered around the Chimney Mountain trail- head, and the Garnet Hill Lodge near North River offers lodging and meals. In Discover the South Central Adirondacks, I identified one potential trip itinerary (the so-called “Tentless Traverse”) that utilized these facilities instead of backcountry campsites on a four-day through-hike from Speculator to North Creek. The suggested traverse is indicated by red dots on the accompanying map. 20 West Canada Lake Wilderness: I A Fragile Resource n my opinion, the West Canada Lake Wilderness is one of the most unique regions in the Adirondack Park. Its key feature is a high plateau studded with lakes between 2300 and 2500 feet in elevation, and forested with thick stands of spruce, balsam, and red maple. The plateau is hammered with precipitation, making it one of the wettest places in the park. This results in muddy trails and perpetually damp conditions; finding dry firewood can be a challenge in a region where logs are often rotten soon after hitting the ground. The combination of mountainous terrain, dense forests, and sensitive lakes create an unparalleled landscape, long known for its remoteness. Prior to the acquisition of the Moose River Plains in the 1960s, the West Canada Lakes were very difficult to reach by foot. The nearest trailhead was located at Perkins Clearing, and hikers had to walk several miles through Sled Harbor before reaching the first lake. The Gould acquisition opened an alternate route past Brooktrout Lake, and the Perkins Clearing land exchange with International Paper, which was completed in 1983, created two new trailheads at Pillsbury Mountain and Spruce Lake. These actions made the wilderness a little less remote, but the prohibition against floatplane access in the 1970s meant that the only legal way to visit the lakes was under one’s own power. Because this is a cool, wet place sensitive to environmental stresses like acid rain, this wilderness should remain a lightly used and highly protected place. No significant new recreational uses should be considered, and even such seemingly benign proposals as the North Country National Scenic Trail should be reviewed in terms of potential impacts to trails and campsites. CEDAR LAKES DAM There has never been a unit management plan for the West Canada Lakes, and this has proven to be a major shortcoming for the area. Of particular concern is the status of the old dam at Cedar Lakes, which for several years has been undercut by flowing water. The dam has not failed structurally, and it does still seasonally impound a large flow. However, during the course of an average summer the lake drains down as water flows beneath the dam, restoring the Cedar Lakes to their natural water levels. These annual fluctuations (high in the spring, low by the end of summer) give the Cedar Lakes the appearance of a reservoir, with exposed shoals and beach- es when the water is drawn down. Because the lake level is restored to full capacity in the spring, natural revegetation cannot occur along the shoreline. Some interest has been expressed in keeping the dam, but the costs to rebuild such a large structure so far from the nearest road would be prohibitive. The Cedar Lakes are still quite large at their natural level, and when the water is down one can still paddle easily from the foot of the lake to its head. Rather than rebuilding the dam, the best 22 course of action is to permanently breach the dam in a way that prevents a catastrophic failure in the future, and that allows the lake level to stabilize immediately. FRENCH LOUIE’S CAVE The wilderness contains one historic site (not labeled on the accompanying map) with a potentially high cultural significance. The famous guide and trapper “French” Louie Seymour is said to have camped in a cave near Cobble Hill, and indeed a cave does exist at the foot of this landmark. There are two wooden bunks inside, and one of them is partially made from hand-ripped boards. These boards seem to represent a form of woodcraft rarely seen in this age of power tools, and if they were indeed made by Seymour then they are one of the few remaining artifacts left by this historical figure. To date, I have not chosen to publish the precise location of the cave in my guidebook for fear of vandalism. The site should be assessed professionally to determine its true historic value, and whether actions should be taken to protect any objects contained within the cave. OTTER BROOK AND LITTLE MOOSE LAKE In 2010, the APA reclassified a large portion of the Moose River Plains near Sly Pond from wild forest to wilderness. However, a linear “wild forest corridor” was designated from Otter Brook to Little Moose Lake for the sole purpose of accommodating mountain bikes in an area where the SLMP otherwise prohibits such use. The APA took this action despite a complete lack of precedent for the concept of a “wild forest corridor” in the SLMP, despite a complete lack of evidence that the corridor was previously used by mountain bikes prior to the reclassification (or that it served any useful purpose for mountain biking), despite a significant amount of criticism from Forest Preserve advocacy groups, and despite the fact that the “wild forest corridor” proposal was not included in the draft plan submitted to the public for review and comment. The designation of this “wild forest corridor” between the Little Moose and West Canada Lake wildernesses was the most offensive action taken by the APA in this region. I have hiked to Otter Brook and Little Moose Lake several times, and this is a very remote area that excels at solitude. The trail corridor is so far from major travel routes that few mountain bikers will express any interest in it. The APA interpreted the SLMP far too leniently when it designated the corridor, applying the wild forest classification in a way its authors never intended. The agency has effectively spot-zoned a non-conforming use within the wilderness area, frustrating the fundamental purpose of the SLMP. There is only one acceptable solution: eliminate the “wild forest corridor,” merge Little Moose and West Canada Lake into one uninterrupted wilderness area, and eliminate all non-conforming uses. In regards to Little Moose Lake, a cabin still stands on its northern shore from a hunting lease that existed prior to state purchase. Since 2008, this cabin has stood vacant and dilapidated. It should have been removed years ago, and the 2010 wilderness classification has only complicated the state’s ability to access the site. The building is now severely vandalized and uninhabitable, and its presence cannot be tolerated any longer. The site is perched on a high bank with hard-packed soils and partial views, and it would seem to be an excellent location for a lean-to. 23 Crane Mountain: C Room for Expansion rane Mountain has one of the most visually striking profiles of any mountain in the south central Adirondacks. For many years it was regarded as the highest peak in Warren County, until Verplanck Colvin proved that Gore was taller. It has long been a favored climbing destination, with published accounts of recreational hiking and camping dating to as early as 1870. Visitors would often hire local residents (even young children) to guide them up the steep trails. While it falls well short of the 4000-foot threshold, it nevertheless bears an uncanny resemblance to a High Peak. 24 Crane has a fitful acquisition history. In the nineteenth century the mountain was privately owned, but there seemed to be no question of public access then. Locals frequented its heights in search of a variety of blueberry called huckleberries. The mountain was surrounded by farmland, and it fell a short distance outside the original Adirondack Park blue line. The state’s initial interest in Crane, apparently, was its value as a fire observation station. It was acquired for nonpayment of taxes prior to the turn of the century, but was promptly redeemed by private owners on a legal technicality. In the end, only two sections were added to the Forest Preserve: the summit and its pond, and the site of a paint pigment mine at the foot of Huckleberry. the rugged valley between the mountains, extending from Crystal Brook to Paintbed Brook. It has the potential to become a prized ski trail, but each terminus lies on private, posted land. The only legal access is to climb over Crane Mountain from Ski Hi Road and descend the other side. Without naming specific properties, I recommend that the forest surrounding Crane Mountain be targeted for future land acquisition, if willing sellers can be identified. The goal should be to improve access to the summit of Huckleberry Mountain and the valley below its cliffs. Actions should be taken to bar illegal ATV use of the unmarked trail from Crystal Brook to Crane Mountain Pond. The fire tower is long gone from the summit, but it is hardly missed because Crane features outstanding views from multiple points. In addition to the marked state trails to the summit, there are herd paths to two scenic knobs near Crane Mountain Pond. The trails are incredibly steep, but they are also short; many people complete the arduous journey to the summit every year. However, the state’s holdings are just spacious enough to contain the mountain’s best features, and nothing more. They include the summit of Huckleberry Mountain, but not any of the approaches to it. An excellent old road traverses Beaver pond on Paintbed Brook, Wilcox Lake Wild Forest 25 B Preserving the Wild Core y conservative count, I can identify eleven parcels within the wild forests of the south central Adirondacks that exist in a wilderness or near-wilderness state today. These are places on existing state land where little or no motorized/mechanized use occurs, and which harbor outstanding opportunities for primitive and solitary forms of human recreation. They exist in the gaps between the wild forest snowmobile network, and they could be upgraded to wilderness with little or no trail closures. Although I have only listed eleven in this document, I could easily pick out several more. I am by no means proposing that all of these areas be reclassified as wilderness—as much as I might like to see that happen. Certainly, a few of these places really do deserve reclassification and should be made a priority. However, I think it is equally important to point out that these places exist, particularly in a planning project such as GSW in which recreational development is the focus. Any action that would diminish the wildness of these core areas would also diminish the collective wildness of the Forest Preserve. The intrusion of motorized vehicles, including and especially snowmobiles and ATVs, into quiet and remote areas would represent an irretrievable loss. The eleven areas can be summarized as follows: • Cotton Lake: As mentioned previously, this section of the Black River Wild Forest merits full wilderness protection. It was proposed to APA and DEC for reclassification in 2006. • Richards Vly: This is a trailless gap in the Ferris Lake Wild Forest snowmobile system south of Nobleboro. It features an array of wetlands and sees very little human Kibby Pond, Wilcox Lake Wild Forest 26 usage. • Big Alderbed: Although not completely motorless—there is one unused snowmobile trail and an access road to a string of private inholdings in the Brayhouse Gore—the northern and southern ends of this area are remote and trackless. The J. G. Tefft Tract between Big Alderbed and DeBraine Lake contains a virgin forest, and the central region features a high plateau of small lakes. The Powley-Piseco Road forms the eastern boundary. • G Lake: This section of the Ferris Lake Wild Forest should be added to the adjacent West Canada Lake Wilderness. It includes G Lake and Panther Mountain Stream, but not the town-maintained G Lake Road. • County Line Lakes: A significant portion of the Shaker Mountain Wild Forest abutting the southern boundary of the Silver Lake Wilderness is largely undeveloped and fully meets wilderness criteria. Considering the strong opposition to closing the end of West River Road at Whitehouse, this tract would make a suitable alternate addition to the Silver Lake Wilderness. • West Stony Creek: This section of the Shaker Mountain Wild Forest was proposed for a wilderness reclassification by the advocacy group Protect the Adirondacks. • Shiras Pond: This wild core of the Wilcox Lake Wild Forest is encircled by snowmobile trails, but it contains no official trails of its own. A handful of unmarked footpaths lead into the interior. The area features several small ponds (New Lake, Shiras Pond, and Little Joe Pond) that are far too small for floatplane landings. • Kibby Pond: This is another section of the Wilcox Lake Wild Forest currently used only for primitive recreation. It includes the marked trail to Kibby Pond, as well as the fishermen’s path to Eagle Pond. The Fish Ponds and part of Stewart Creek form part of the boundary. • Crane Mountain: This mountain is far too small for wilderness consideration, but its rugged terrain and shallow soils do warrant increased considerations. • Sumner Stream: Currently, the southwestern boundary of the Blue Ridge Wilderness ends at an arbitrary line south of Lake Kora. However, a large section of the Moose River Plains Wild Forest along Sumner Stream (as far as the confluence with Bear Paw Creek) is rugged and wild. Considering 27 that there appears to be little public interest in removing the Wakely Mountain fire tower and adding that mountain to the Blue Ridge Wilderness as prescribed by the SLMP, Sumner Stream and Cellar Pond would be an acceptable alternative. The Moose River Road corridor would form the area’s southern boundary. • Rock River: A section of the Blue Mountain Wild Forest was once expected to become part of a “Wild Rivers Wilderness.” However, that proposal was not adopted in 2013 when the Essex Chain of Lakes was classified. 28 Nevertheless, the northern half of Township 17 is quite wild and secluded. It used to contain several snowmobile trails, but legal protections for the Rock and Cedar rivers led to their closure years ago. The only exception is a community connector trail parallel to Route 28, south of Rock Lake; this corridor should be retained. Although the Wild Rivers Wilderness proposal appears to be shelved, this area still deserves increased protection. Scenic vistas can be found on McGinn Mountain, White Birch Ridge, Ledge Mountain, and the Stark Hills. The areas shaded red on the accompanying map should be regarded as equals to the designated wilderness areas in terms of preservation priority. Human recreation is appropriate in these zones, but not the use of motor vehicles. Any proposal to open additional motorized trails and roads through these zones should be opposed; efforts to enhance and protect their wildness should be favored. T Conclusion he GSW project covers such an enormous geographic area that it would be difficult to discuss all of the relevant issues and proposals in a succinct manner. The maps and ideas contained in this report are merely the beginning of a potential vision for managing primitive recreation in the Forest Preserve; much more work could be done. For instance, there is an opportunity to establish a fine cross-country ski trail network on the Flatrock Mountain Demonstration Forest near Thendara, on the edge of the Black River Wild Forest. An approvable route for the North Country National Scenic Trail is still lacking, as yet another decade ticks by. I have said nothing about the Hoffman Notch Wilderness and Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest, despite the wealth of opportunities in that region. Nor have I touched upon recreation in the Essex Chain region; so many recent decisions about the management of that parcel have been politically driven that my own views seem irrelevant. Generally, I support efforts to engage in regional management planning for the Forest Preserve—especially since unit management planning has proven to be slow and (sometimes) ineffectual. Despite the passage of 42 years since implementation of the SLMP, few UMPs have been revised, and several plans (West Canada Lake, Ferris Lake, and Wilcox Lake) have never been completed. If combining these units into a single regional plan is the key to getting anything done, then let’s give it a try. However, I can see that keeping track of so many proposals and issues for such a huge area will be difficult. Ideas will be traded back and forth on a wholesale basis. I found there was no way for me to communicate my own thoughts on the GSW project without organizing them in the form of a report; my experiences with the south central Adirondacks are too specific, too personal, to permit brevity. What concerns me is that the project’s dependence on local business owners and government officials as “experts” on the Forest Preserve will lead to a final report that emphasizes maximum use of the wild resource. I agree that recreation is an important element in the management of the preserve, because it is the means by which most people grow to become knowledgeable stewards. But these public lands by legal design cannot be all things to all people. The Forest Preserve is just one species of public land in the statewide spectrum of opportunity. It is constitutionally directed to be a wild place because few other parks in New York State are capable of providing the wilderness experi- 29 ences found in the Adirondacks. The preserve is not a place that is suitable for intensive uses, and it should not be equated with the liberal allowances that govern recreation in a suburban park. If you are seeking a wild, self-powered adventure in wide-open spaces, then the Adirondacks will accommodate you. If your preferred form of recreation is not dependent on a wild resource, then the Forest Preserve is not what you’re looking for. The most appropriate forms of recreation in the Forest Preserve are those that are inspired by its wildness, not those that impair it. Any proposal issued by the GSW project must conform to established legal guidelines, must not overburden the resource, and must not be politically motivated. There is certainly room for improvement in the trail system of the south central Adirondacks, and I have illustrated several ways that primitive recreation could be enhanced without infringing upon—or altering—the wilderness nature of the backcountry: adding several trails to peripheral peaks with outstanding views, and connecting a few dead-end trails to facilitate point-to-point backpacking, as examples. But there are also some places such as the West Canada Lake Wilderness that should be left alone. For the same reason that campers are encouraged to leave a campsite cleaner than when they arrived, it is imperative that each generation pass along an Adirondack Forest Preserve that is wilder than the one it inherited. A recreation plan that promotes motorized access in remote places or increased primitive recreation in sensitive areas—a plan that does not regard wildness as the Forest Preserve’s most valuable and attractive characteristic—would be detrimental to the region. That being said, I am confident that a beneficial plan can be drafted for the south central Adirondacks, and I am eager to see the results. Thank you for your attention to my thoughts and ideas. About the Author Bill Ingersoll has hiked and backpacked in the wildernesses of Montana, Wyoming, New Mexico, and California, but feels most at home in the grand forests of the Adirondacks. He became a co-author for the Discover series in 2000 and has now become the series’ publisher. He is the author of Snowshoe Routes: Adirondacks and Catskills, and his articles and photos have appeared in Adirondack Explorer, Adirondack Sports & Fitness, and Adirondack Life magazines. Ingersoll has served on the conservation committees for several organizations, and in 2014 he established the Adirondack Wilderness Explorers group on Meetup. You will find him exploring the North Country with his dog Lexie in all four seasons, by trail, snowshoe, and canoe. Photo by Jessica Fitzgerald Get Out. Seek Out. 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