1. Art and Diseño

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
St. Petersburg
February - March 2015
Celebrate in style
Pancakes, posies
and pampering
More than
11 years
in Russia!
inyourpocket.com
N°99
Beyond the Hermitage
Piter’s lesser known
museums
Contents
Nightlife
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
35
Bars and clubs – how to stay out till 6 a.m.
Foreword
4
In the News
5
Arrival & Getting Around
6
City Basics
8
Language
9
Culture & Events 10
Concerts and festivals
10
Exhibitions14
Features
What to see
38
38
39
40
41
42
The essentials
Modern art centres
Saints of St. Petersburg
Egypt on the Neva
Historical outskirts
Where to stay 53
Interview with concierge
54
Shopping
55
56
Russian souvenirs
Expat & Lifestyle57
The expat experience Celebrating Russia’s winter18
Russian women21
Maps & Index
Hermitage 250 years44
City map
Hidden museums46
Street index
Pskov49
Metro map
58
60
62
63
Where to eat
64
24
Moscow
Vegetarian28
Russian cuisine
34
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgYourPocket
0+
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
3
Foreword
While spring in Russia doesn’t really begin until May, its
spirit is already upon us. Just because the long New Year’s
holidays are over, it doesn’t mean that the party has to stop.
Actually it’s just getting started. You should definitely try
traditional Russian pancakes during the week of Maslenitsa (read more on page 20). This holiday has always been
one of my favorites. Have you ever watched “The Barber
Of Siberia”? Remember that part with the crazy Maslenitsa celebrations next to the Moscow Kremlin? This scene
shows the true atmosphere of this holiday, or at least how
it should be. So get in the mood and enjoy! Pancakes of all
sorts and kinds can be found almost everywhere in the city:
from cosy and welcoming cafés to luxurious and elegant
restaurants. Sounds great doesn’t it?
Maslenitsa is not the only holiday you can enjoy in February.
There are more! You can of course have a romantic dinner
on Valentine’s Day (see page 19) or celebrate International
Bartender’s Day on February 6. Pick a bar from our Nightlife
section (pages 35-37) and go drink a Margarita, a Mojito
or better yet, ask the bartender what their specialty is. And
don’t forget about International Women’s Day on March 8.
It’s one of the biggest national holidays in Russia and it can’t
be ignored. To get in the mood, go to page 21. It’s all there.
Whatever you choose, St. Petersburg can never be called
boring, what with its diversity of world-famous, as well as
small and not so well-known museums. Yes, there’s more to
St. Petersburg than the Hermitage or the Russian Museum!
With our readers in mind, we have created a special feature
dedicated to the hidden places that are definitely worth
visiting (see pages 46-48). Trust us, they’re something.
As you probably know, from 1732 to 1918 St. Petersburg was
the political capital of Russia. Now it’s considered the cultural
capital and the locals are absolutely happy with that designation. The huge number of festivals and concerts that the city
has to offer is almost ridiculous (see pages 10-17).
You’ll find all this and even more in the guide you hold in
your hands. We sincerely hope you enjoy your stay! Happy
holidays!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg In Your
E SPocket
S E N TI A L
founded and published
C I by
T YOOO
G Krasnaya
U I D E SShapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A,
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected]
[email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com
General Manager Chris Gilbert, [email protected]
Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, [email protected]
Design Malvina Markina, [email protected]
Sales Managers
Ilya Timshin, [email protected]
Contributors Olivia Capozzalo, Nils Roskamp
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected]
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2015. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
No 99, 01.02.2015, 90.000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.
Cover story
The egg that came first. Unlike the blingtastic creations which followed, the Hen Egg crafted by Fabergé
for Alexander III as an Easter gift to the Tsarina exudes
an understated minimalism. And if you thought the
old debate was settled, think again: open up the egg,
and you’ll find a chicken inside…
About IYP
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA
4
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Not content with publishing more than 100 guides
to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is
currently carrying out a new round of expansion
for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include
Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old
favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the
Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to
look forward to: we will rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout February and March.
In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s
new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter
(twitter.com/inyourpocket).
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
In the News
Memorial to Brodsky
A memorial to poet Joseph
Brodsky is being erected
on the wall of the Muruzi
house at 28 Liteiny Prospekt.
During the Soviet era, the
handsome building housed
communal apartments and
it was here that Brodsky
and his parents occupied “a
room and a half” for almost
20 years, from 1955 until his forced emigration in 1972. The
memorial construction is part of a larger project dedicated to
celebrating the poet’s life and work, namely the opening of the
Brodsky museum-apartment in the very same Muruzi house.
Both the memorial and the museum are set to be open to the
public in May of this year, in commemoration of what would
be the poet’s 75th birthday (b. May 24, 1940). The project is
being led by Mikhail Milchik, one of Brodsky’s friends and the
president of the Joseph Brodsky Museum Foundation.
Claustrophobia
It might seem like a nightmare straight out of 1984, but
struggling to find a way out of a locked room is fast becoming one of St. Petersburg’s hottest entertainment tickets.
The Claustrophobia Quest challenges guests to solve ingenious mental puzzles and work out how to escape from
a variety of themed rooms. It’s a bit like an intellectual version of the classic TV show Fort Boyard, with groups of up
to four players seeking a way out from haunted houses, nuclear bunkers or medieval dungeons, among many choices.
Although the settings are designed for the Russian market,
the challenges are non-verbal, making them accessible to
anyone. The key thing is being able to communicate with
team-mates to unlock the door and escape before the time
runs out. For more information see www.phobia.ru.
Russia’s first
hospitality awards
Russia’s much-maligned hospitality sector gets the chance
to blow its own trumpet for a change with the first ever
Russian Hospitality Awards in February 2015. The ceremony will announce the 20 best hotels in the country
in various categories. Nomination forms are available on
the Russian Hospitality Awards website, and an expert jury
will investigate what each hotel has to offer as well as considering reviews from online booking systems. This annual
award is intended to bring together leading figures in the
hospitality industry, helping to promote excellence across
the sector. The inaugural award ceremony is scheduled for
February 19 in Moscow. For more information, check out
www.hospitalityawards.ru.
Leviathan
Winner of Best Screenplay
at the 2014 Cannes Film
Festival, Best Foreign Film
at the Golden Globes, and
current Oscar nominee,
Andrey Zvyaginstev’s new
film Leviathan has already gained enthusiastic
world-wide attention and
acclaim. Set to premier in
Russia on February 5, most
of the film was shot in a small town on the Kola Peninsula
on the Barents Sea. The film, whose name at least in part
references the terrifying sea monster in the book of Job,
starkly tells a story of systematic corruption, violence and
tragedy in a small town. Already considered an important
portrayal of contemporary Russia, the film’s international
popularity makes its premiere and reception in Russia even
more worth paying attention to, not only for the sake of the
film’s quality as a work of art, but for its impact as a social
phenomenon. Regular screenings with English subtitles
will take place at the Angleterre Hotel.
Restaurant Day 2015
Санкт-Петербург
В Твоем Кармане
Учредитель и издатель:
ООО «Красная Шапка»
Адрес редакции и издателя:
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64
Главный редактор:
Бонни ван дер Велде
Цена свободная.
Для детей старше 16 лет.
Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”,
191024, Санкт-Петербург,
ул. Тележная, д. 17.
Заказ No26829
Свидетельство о регистрации
средства массовой информации
Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03
выдано Северо-Западным
региональным управлением
комитета РФ по печати.
Тираж 90 000 экз. No99.
01.02.2015
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Four times a year, all over the world, there’s a really good
reason to eat out: it’s called Restaurant Day. Restaurant Day
is a relatively new and very exciting concept in the world
of food and dining. For one day only, anyone can open a
pop-up restaurant anywhere they want – at home, at work,
in a park, on a street corner, in a courtyard, you name it. In
St. Petersburg there’s a local addition to this global tradition. Several sites around the city, usually art spaces, galleries and shops are chosen each time to host amateurs
and professionals, local chefs, foodies, or just food lovers
for this one-day-only food fest. The event is the perfect opportunity to explore the city, visit places you’ve never seen,
and enjoy some delicious food and drink while you’re at it.
www.vk.com/restaurantdayspb.
February - March 2015
5
Arriving & Getting Around
St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - both attractive and efficient - and is the
fastest way to get across town or into the centre of the city.
If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro
as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your
way from the metro station to your destination you have a
choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and
trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the
routes and when to get off, they make getting around the
city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little
more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.
Arriving in town
Arriving by bus
St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you
know where you are going before you leave.
The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of
the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is
a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town
and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr.
Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya
metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into
the metro system. To find your way into the city centre
make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies
have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus
companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you
could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops.
The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest
metro station or take a taxi.
Arriving by car
Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s
licence, registration and insurance documents for the car
and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At
the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is
stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled
over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is
not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or
ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher,
a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the
highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h.
The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay
for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.
The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone
of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and
there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay
the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km
too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light
will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost
500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English,
which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy.
In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road
conditions often force you to drive more carefully and
thus more slowly.
Arriving by plane
St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located
in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport
offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal
building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM
machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee
and cake before being collected or trying to find your way
into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been
known to cause heart failure!
Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take
Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya
Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes
depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town
(another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes).
Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts
of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro
system if you need to find a particular station.
If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl
and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree
on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl.
Arriving by train
Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train
stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply
need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St.
Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the
metro station nearest your destination.
Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from
the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland
arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky
station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for
Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia
arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations.
There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers
there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce
on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight
onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi.
Read more online:
www.inyourpocket.com/
russia/st-petersburg/arriving
6
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Getting Around
Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get
out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply
connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from
Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit
Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky.
There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream,
band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need.
Baltisky station
QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Finlyandsky station
QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46,
www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Ladozhsky station
QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53
10, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Moskovsky station
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457
44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Vitebsky station
QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812
457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Public transport
Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of
transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets
from the conductor or driver (28Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms
of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight.
Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and
there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’
driver.
St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world
and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those
on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons
of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also
fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need
to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs
from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 31Rbl and can be bought from
the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro
lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent
stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny
Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see
the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station
announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This
can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush
hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you
can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving
and queue-cutting.
Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have
the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of
the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leatherwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners
above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many
also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current
and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.
The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed
route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a
reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days,
they go just about everywhere within the city and out to
the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which
disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set
departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number
you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare
(up to 36Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you.
When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.
TaxiS
Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a
legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for
the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have
English-speaking operators but in many big companies
you can book a taxi online:
Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com
Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru
Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru
New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.
nyt.ru
February - March 2015
7
City Basics
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The
most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed
by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot
buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between 22:00 and 11:00.
Health and Safety
Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads
carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also
pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is
chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you
can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or
making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the
tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets
if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab,
or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and
don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and
(+7) 812 303 05 55.
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Climate
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations,
banks and large hotels.
Winters in Russia are fierce and February is typically one
of the coldest months of the year, with temperatures
sometimes getting as low as -20, so wrap up warm and
don’t forget your thick socks and warm gloves! Layers are
usually the most practical. Only in the end of March does
the city really start to thaw so until then expect a lot of ice
and snow in the streets and minuses on the thermometer.
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of
Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more
than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that
Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says
you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local
price.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Money
Foreigner Prices
8
The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can
help you file a police report. Your consulate can help
you if your passport has been stolen. The police here
generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy
your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry
a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check
Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)
Average temperature (oC)
Lowest recorded temperature (oC)
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Language
useful phrases
pocket dictionary:
Sosulka
What is a sosulka? A sosulka is one of those long and
beautiful and potentially lethal ice stalactites that hang
from the roofs of buildings. As the temperature rises and
falls the melting snow on rooftops (krysha) turn into different shaped sosulki. The threat to innocent passersby’s
is such that the city needs to employ an army of special
kommunalshchiki (local council workers) armed with trucks,
pick axes and shovels to go up onto the city’s roofs to remove them. In fact the dangerous job of icicle removing
has existed for centuries and has seen numerous casualties. Sometimes the sosulki can grow as long as two floors,
which as you can imagine is an absolutely terrifying sight,
so mind your head! The word comes from the verb sosat,
meaning to suck, which is what adventurous kids like to do
with them when their parents aren’t watching.
numbers
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
adin
dva
tri
chetyre
pyat
shest
sem
vosem
devyat
desyat
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
adinatsat
dvinatsat
trinatsat
chetyrnatsat
pyatnatsat
shesnatsat
semnatsat
vosemnatsat
devyatnatsat
dvatsat
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
500
1000
tritsat
sorok
pyatdesyat
shesdesyat
semdesyat
vosemdesyat
devyanosta
sto
pyatsot
tysicha
alphabet
А
Б
В
Г
Д
Е
Ё
Ж
A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH
З
И
Й
К
Л
М
Н
О
Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O
П
Р
С
Т
У
Ф
Х
Ц
P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS
Ч
Ш
Щ
Ы
Э
Ю
Я
Ъ, Ь
CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Basic frases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I need some
help
I don't want
Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est…?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
It hurts!
Bolno!
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Could you write Zapishite
it down?
pazhalusta
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Who?
Kto?
How do you say Kak skazat eto
that in Russian? pa-russky?
No problem
Bez problem
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol
Нет/Да
Здравствуйте
До свидания
Спасибо
Извините
Пожалуйста
Я не понимаю
Я не говорю
по-русски
Вы говорите
по-английски?
Помогите!
Мне нужна
помошь
Я не хочу
Мне (не)
нравится
Можно?
У вас есть...?
Я не знаю
Сколько стоит?
Это дорого!
Большой/
маленкий
Хорошо/
плохо
Больно!
Сегодня
Завтра
Запишите,
пожалуйста
Туалет
Остановите,
пожалуйста
Когда? Во
сколько?
Который час?
Кто?
Как сказать
это по-русски?
Без проблем
Конечно
С праздником!
Пароль
February - March 2015
9
Culture & Events
Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending a
day hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus
performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night
you choose.
theatres
Alexandrinsky Theatre
QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312
15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru.
Mariinsky Theatre
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
41 41, www.mariinsky.ru.
Mikhailovsky Theatre
QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43
19, www.mikhailovsky.ru.
Saint Petersburg Opera
QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315
67 69, www.spbopera.ru.
concert halls and clubs
Aurora concert hall
QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7)
812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru.
Club A2
QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812
309 99 22, www.a2.fm.
Club Cosmonavt
QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su.
Grand Philharmonic Hall
QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.
Jazz Philharmonic Hall
QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.
JFC Jazz Club
QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru.
Jimi Hendrix Blues Club
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru.
Ledovy Dvorets
QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718
66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru.
Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ)
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275
13 00, www.bkz.ru.
Sport Concert Complex (SKK)
QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17
10, www.spbckk.ru.
Yubileiny Sports Palace
QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7)
812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.
Zal Ozhidaniya
QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.
10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
February events
07.02 Saturday
20:00 Pilot
The Russian musical collective was created in 1997 and within
the first few months of their existence, the group released
their first album, “War”. Their early years of playing earned
them an avid fanbase, which has continued to grow and now
includes fans of several generations and of all different walks
of life. The band continues to tour and their music and music
videos play regularly on national radio and television channels in Russia. On February 7th, help the band celebrate their
18th birthday in the company of their fans, old and new, and
in the comfort of their home city.QE-1, Aurora Concert Hall,
Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17,
www.pilot.spb.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl.
07.02 Saturday
20:00 Yann Tiersen
Though well known for creating the incredibly whimsical,
expressive soundtrack of the film Amelie, which brought
him global recognition, Breton musician Yann Tiersen in reality is not primarily a composer, but a musician focused on
recording and performing his music. His work incorporates
many different sounds, notably the folksy, mournful sounds
of the accordion, harpsichord and melodica. Since 1995 he
has released eight studio albums, the most recent of which,
“Infinity” (2014), he is currently promoting and performing
on tour. His concert in St. Petersburg promises to be, like his
music, filled with magic, mysticism and warmth.QD-1, Club
A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99
22, www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 900 - 4,700Rbl.
14.02 Saturday
19:00 Agata Kristi
Only one concert and only the best songs of their almost
30 year existence - this is what the legendary rock band
is promising their devoted fans. The group announced
their breakup in 2009 and played their last official concert
in 2010. Despite the hiatus, the loyalty of the band’s fan
base has never wavered: in 2014 Russian radio listeners
voted to include five of the group’s compositions on the
top 100 best Russian rock songs of all time. In the band’s
own words, the February shows are not so much a reunion
for the band as “a gift to its fans”.QLedovy Dvorets, pr.
Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 335 75 75,
www.agata2015.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
15.02 Sunday
19:00 Astor Piazzolla’s Tango Passion
In honor of Valentine’s day, a day for expressions of love and all
things romantic, comes a show filled with heat, emotion and
passion. Created by Argentine choreographer Silvio Grand
and winners of the Campeonato Mundial de Baille de Tango
and the Tango Dance World Championship in Buenos Aires,
the performance features the music of legendary innovative
Argentine tango composer, Astor Piazzola. Musical accompaniment will be provided by the world-famous St. Petersburg
symphony orchestra IP Orchestra. The promise of the dynamism, elegance and power of true tango music and dance
make this truly a show not to be missed.QE-3, Oktyabrsky
Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Tickets 700 - 2,500Rbl.
THE ART OF NATURAL THERAPY
A SANCTUARY
OF SERENITY
AND SENSES
22.02 Sunday
19:00 Emir Kusturica and Goran Bregovic
After a many-year break, two of the biggest names in Balkan music and culture are collaborating once again. Kusturica, Serbian filmmaker, actor and musician and Bregovic,
a Bosnian-born musician, first collaborated in the late 1980s
to mid-90s, when Bregovic composed the soundtracks for
three of Kusturica’s films. As a celebratory concert surprise
for Petersburg concertgoers, the pair will be joined on stage
by world-fusion music ensemble Mostar Sevdah Reunion,
who play traditional folk music from Bosnia and Herzegovina, fused with different contemporary music styles. The
night promises to be filled with joyful reunions and Balkan
beats.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky
pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.
goranbregovic.rs. Tickets 1,800 - 6,000Rbl.
23.02 Monday
19:00 Dina Garipova
As first place winner of the 2012 Russian Voice competition
and Russian representative at the 2013 Eurovision in Malmo,
Sweden, Dina Garipova has already become a beloved star
of Russian pop. At her solo concert this February, her awardwinning voice will be accompanied by a symphony orchestra,
conducted by Roman Leontiev. The concert will showcase
not only her well-known hits, including “What if”, but also
her debut album “Two Steps to Love”. In commemoration of
the holiday and in honor of all “Defenders of the Fatherland”,
Garipova will perform the famous patriotic march from 1912,
“Proshchanie slavyanki”.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert
Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13
00, www.dinagaripova.ru. Tickets 700 - 2,500Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
WORLD KNOWN HOLISTIC SPA
IN THE HEART OF THE CITY
Nevsky Centre, 6 floor, Nevsky pr,114-116
+7 812 449 08 36, +7 911 293 00 27
www.thann-spa.ru
International Festival
“Triumph of Jazz”
20.02 friday, 19:00
This year marks the 15th anniversary of the festival “Triumph of Jazz”, hosted by reknowned jazz saxophonist,
Igor Butman. The festival will run for three days in St.
Petersburg and Moscow and kicks of in St. Petersburg
with three exciting headliners from the States: legendary jazz collective the Yellowjackets, who’ve been
playing together for more than 30 years, trumpet player and five-time Grammy winner Terence Blanchard
and his band E-collective, and a project by the jazz
vocalist Lisa Henry, accompanied by the great Oleg
Butman Trio.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 921 369 72 78, www.jazztriumph.ru.
Tickets 650 - 3,500Rbl.
February - March 2015
11
Culture & Events
March events
28.02 Saturday
19:00 De Phazz
Berlin-based sound collective De Phazz combines an electronic, synthesizer-heavy sound with lounge, jazz, latin
beats and breakbeat rhythyms of trip hop. The group’s
founder is German producer Pit Baumgartner, who has
brought together different musicians to make each of
the band’s albums. One of the regulars, however, is Pat
Appleton, who provides the collective’s lyrics and sultry
lead vocals. The collective will play in St. Petersburg on the
very last day of winter. Their show, which includes new
interpretations of their most well-known compositions, in
Appleton’s own words promises to “rekindle the flame of
love in the hearts of viewers”.QD-2, Music Hall, Alexandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50,
www.dephazz.com. Tickets 400 - 5,000Rbl.
Robbie Williams
09.04 Thursday, 20:00
Robbie Williams is making his first ever visit to
the northern capital.
The British pop star
first began his musical career in 1990 as
the youngest member
of the boy band Take
That. He left the band in
1995 and launched his
solo career soon after,
which transformed him
into the living pop legend he is today. He is currently
the best selling British solo artist in the UK and the
most successful British solo performer in the history
of world pop. His current tour, “Let Me Entertain You”,
is named after the legendary song of his career, first
released in 1997.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.robbiewilliams.
com. Tickets 3,000 - 20,000Rbl.
You can buy tickets for many events at
www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru
12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
03.03 Tuesday
19:00 Glenn Miller’s Sun Valley Serenade
Based on the classic 1941 film of the same name, director-producer Igor Illarionov has created a lively musical show filled
with adventure, comedy and romance. As in the original film,
the music of Glenn Miller plays a major role in the story. But
this time, in lieu of the man himself and his legendary Orchestra on screen, audiences are given a chance to experience
the vibrancy and swing of his music live on stage. The show
features the St. Petersburg Brass Orchestra, as well as winners
of the International “New Wave” competition and leading
members of the St. Petersburg Theatre of Musical Comedy.
QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 921
369 72 78, www.gorkogo.spb.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.
06.03 Friday
20:00 Julio Iglesias
The best selling Latin music artist in history, Spanish singer songwriter Julio
Iglesias is truly a legend.
In his over 45-year musical
career, Iglesias has released
80 albums and sold more
than 300 million records
worldwide. At his concerts,
Iglesias’ heartfelt lyrics and
powerful voice create a welcoming, romantic atmosphere; he seems to be singing at the
same time for everyone present and for each listener individually. The singer himself describes his music as an overflowing
and outpouring of inner passion that he feels compelled to
share with the world.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall,
Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
www.julioiglesias.com. Tickets 4,000 - 12,000Rbl.
09.03 Monday, 22.03 sunday
19:00 Temptation Dance Show
On 9 and 22 March the
Music Hall will be packed
out for the performance
of “In The Rain Show” from
spectacular dance group
“Temptation”. Ignoring any
boundaries of style, the
troupe’s members range
from all sorts of classical
and contemporary dance
backgrounds, coming together to perform awe inspiring shows selling out St. Petersburg’s theatres. The show is particularly passionate and unpredictable due to a constantly revolving roster of dancers
and choreographers, and the fact that the whole thing takes
place under actual pouring rain on stage.For women only,
men are not allowed! And we are not kidding.QD-2, Music
Hall, Alexandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
994 00 60, www.iskushenie.su. Tickets 600 - 1,500Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
10.03 Tuesday
19:00 Crowbar
Hailing from the great New
Orleans, Louisiana, Crowbar is a well-known pioneer of the sludge metal
genre, which originated
primarily in the Crescent
City in the mid-1980s. The
genre itself is a combination of doom metal, hardcore punk and elements
of Southern Rock. Crowbar has been playing under its current name since 1991,
though guitarist and vocalist Kirk Windstein has been
playing with some form of the band since 1988. The band
released their latest album, “Symmetry in Black”, in 2014.
This March, they bring their slow, brooding, vicious sound
to Russia for the first time.QD-2, Mod Club, nab. kan. Griboedova 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 712 07 34, www.
facebook.com/crowbarmusic. Tickets from 1,000Rbl.
18.03 Wednesday
19:00 Thirty Seconds to Mars
30 Seconds to Mars is a tight-knit group; the band consists of the two brothers Jared and Shannon Leto, who cofounded the band in 1998, and lead guitarist since 2003,
Tomo Milicevic. It’s been noted that each of the band’s
four studio albums are unique, distinct creations, in terms
of sound, approach and style. Generally known as an alternative rock band, these musicians are true masters of
experimentation. Not only do they produce progressive
sounds, but they’re also committed to global environmental and humanitarian activism. But perhaps what makes
them stand out the most is their honest devotion to their
fans.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812
703 40 40, www.thirtysecondstomars.com. Tickets
1,800 - 6,000Rbl.
11.03 Wednesday
20:00 Tango Pasion
This incredibly ambitious
project was the brainchild
of a small team in 1982,
including choreographer
Hector Zaraspe and producer Mel Howard, and has
since become a celebrated
Broadway show, traveled
the world and introduced
the fine art of tango to
many countries. More than
a dance or musical show, this project is something of a
spectacle, combining every style of Argentine tango, from
the most traditional to the far less known. The music will
be performed by the Latin Grammy winning ensemble,
the Sexteto Mayor Orchestra.QD-1, DK Lensoveta, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 42, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)
812 303 33 33, www.tangopasion.com. Tickets 1,000 3,000Rbl.
14.03 Saturday
20:00 Chizh and Co
Whether it was with friends at the dacha or during the
long months of army service, many Russians have memories of singing and listening to the songs of Russian rock
band Chizh and Co. The band’s lyrical songs are beloved
all over the country and appreciated for their folk music
qualities. Playing since the early 90s, the group’s leader,
Sergei Chigrakov, or “Chizh”, is known for his musical talent
and flexibility. The band plays rock, blues and folk rock and
in 2004, Chizh himself even collaborated and performed
with American blues musicians in Boston and New York.
QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTechnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.
chizh.net. Tickets 1,300 - 4,500Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
20.03 Friday
20:00 Stereoleto Club: Metronomy
British electropop band Metronomy began some time in
the late 1990s (officially in 1999) when front man Joseph
Mount was a teenager experimenting with an old computer. Mount released his debut album in 2005. The band
gained and changed membership changed over the years
and in 2011 they released the much-celebrated album
“The English Riviera”. This past March, the band released
another album, “Love Letters”, which continues their tradition of making music that is laconic and witty, funny yet
poignant. This spring, they will perform as part of the Stereoleto Club, a special offshoot session of the much loved
summer festival.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.metronomy.
co.uk. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.
February - March 2015
13
Culture & Events
28.03 Saturday
20:00 Kosheen
The name “Kosheen” comes from the two Japanese words ko
or “old” and shin or “new”. This experimental Bristol-based trio
first entered the industry in the late 90s. The group released
their first album “Resist” in 2001 and have been actively producing and releasing albums ever since. Their unique sound
combines the electronic beats of trip hop and drum-n-bass,
created by the drum-n-bass producers and Djs Markee Substance (aka Mark Davies) and Darren Decoder (aka Darren
Beale), and the forceful vocals of Welsh singer-songwriter
Sian Evans. The trio together create a sound that truly should
be heard live.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul.
24, MTechnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
www.kosheenrecords.com. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.
29.03 Sunday
10:00 Scooter
This German electronic/
techno/dance music group
is known for making songs
with fast, heavy dance beats.
The ensemble has been
making music with frontman H.P. Baxxter since 1993.
The new album was created
with the help of the group’s
newest member, Austrian
DJ Phil Speiser, who brings his fresh musical talents and industry success to the now more than 20-year-old collective.
The band’s new album will showcase new experimental
sounds, but concertgoers can of course expect to hear the
group’s greatest hits and experience the intensity and extravagance of a true Scooter show.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.
scootertechno.com. Tickets 1,600 - 3,500Rbl.
Exhibitions
cinema
If you are looking for a night at the movies without
having to play some sophisticated form of charades
to work out what’s going on - we have good news for
you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show
movies in English or their original language. If you are
looking for a truly English experience you can’t pass
up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows
all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula
Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora.
Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect
to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if
you want to chill out with a good movie in English or
practice one of your other languages, check out these
cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies.
Angleterre Cinema Lounge
QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www.
angleterrecinema.ru.
Avrora
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942
80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru.
Dom Kino
QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru.
Formula Kino Galeria
QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www.
formulakino.ru.
14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
ThrOugh 15.02 Sunday
Theo Frey
ROSPHOTO presents a solo exhibition of 20th century Swiss
photographer Theo Frey (1908-1997) that features his photos
from the collection at the Fotostiftung Schweiz Foundation.
Though Frey’s main income came from his work as a photojournalist, his preferred assignments were those that more
closely coincided with his personal artistic and humanitarian
interests: the documentation of everyday people and everyday life as opposed to the constantly shifting stories of current events. Most of his work was created in the late 1930s
and 1940s and documents life in rural Switzerland, including
a project completed in 1938-1939 in which he captured the
portraits of residents from twelve different communities all
over the country.QD-3, The State Russian Centre of Photography ROSPHOTO, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. Open
11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 100-200Rbl.
ThrOugh 01.03 Sunday
Alexander Samokhvalov. 1894-1971
The Russian Museum presents a solo exhibition of the works
of Soviet painter Alexander Nikolaevich Samokhvalov (18941971). The exhibition is a full retrospective of the artist’s works,
consisting of over 250 pieces. Samokhvalov is best known for
his work during the 1920s-1930s, when he painted his most
recognized monumental patriotic paintings of Soviet youth
and the New Soviet Person. Though the exhibition will pay
special attention to this fundamental period of Samokhvalov’s work, it will also display the full breadth of his artistic
mastery, including his work in mediums other than painting
and graphic art, such as sculpture, porcelain painting, posters
and architectural drawings.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois
Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
ThrOugh 08.03 Sunday
Gifts from East and West to the Imperial
Court over 300 Years
During the 300-year period from the reign of Peter I to
Nikolai II, Petersburg was the imperial capital city and
played host to the empire’s official meetings, visits and celebrations. During these diplomatic events it was customary to exchange gifts as concrete regonition of one country’s respect for the other. The Hermitage collection traces
the history of this practice, displaying gifts to Russia - from
paintings to silver and porcelain tea sets to elaborate snuff
boxes - from both Western and Eastern empires. Historically and aesthetically valuable, these objects silently bear
witness to Russia’s dynamic diplomatic relations with the
East and West from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th
century.QD-2, The State Hermitage, The General Staff
Building, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79,
www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200Rbl.
ThrOugh 15.03 Sunday
Prince Vladimir Nikolaevich ArgutinskyDolgorukov Collection
Prince V.N. Argutinsky-Dolgorukov (1874-1941) was a wellknown Petersburg art collector and connoisseur in the second decade of the 20th century, as well as a curator at the
Hermitage after the 1917 revolution. Before moving to Paris in
1921, he donated his vast collection of more than 300 pieces
to the Museum of Old Petersburg (now the State Museum
of the History of Saint Petersburg). The collection includes
sketches and plans from leading Petersburg architects of the
18th to the first half of the 19th centuries, as well as paintings,
water colors, drawings, engravings and lithographs, which
depict views of and plans for the capital and its construction.
QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 200Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Ball of Robots
ThrOugh 09.03 Monday
This winter, an international gathering of robots premieres in Russia’s cultural capital. The “Ball of Robots”
event brings together the most advanced robotics
technology from all over the world, including robots
from America, Europe, South Korea and Japan. One of
the most anticipated guests at the Ball is the famously
charming British robot-humanoid, Thespian. Thespian,
as the name indicates, is a highly advanced robotic actor,
who is able to “act out” incredibly convincing emotions
and moods. Thespian’s complex gestures, facial expressions and speech, in over 88 different languages, allow it
to not only fluently interact and communicate with humans, but also to win over their affections in the process!
Other guests at this year’s Ball include the French robot
NAO, an adorable, friendly robot, able to recognise and
communicate with humans. Also present is American
robot, Baxter, primarily a factory robot, designed to learn
and instantly master small tasks. From Zelenograd, Russia
comes the anthropomorphic robot Pushkin, who consists
of a highly life-like reconstruction of the poet’s head and
is able to speak and recite his own verse. The interactive
and educational program of the Robot Ball includes the
ROBOLABORATORY, ROBOPHOTO, and ROBOMARKET. In
the lab, visitors will be given the opportunity to play engineer and, using computers and 3D printers, become familiar with the basic skills of robot design, programming
and assembly. The Ball will also feature an exhibition of
paintings from the collection “Robots and Donuts” by
American artist Eric Joyner.QE-4, Creative space Tkachi,
nab. Obvodnogo kan. 60, MObvodny kanal, tel. (+7)
800 555 80 11, www.balrobotov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00.
Admission from 290Rbl.
February - March 2015
15
Culture & Events
ThrOugh 31.03 Tuesday
Monet to Cezanne - the French Impressionists
St. Petersburg is the first
city in the world to view
this stunning new project
by Australian company
Grand Exhibitions. The
exhibition breaks far beyond the boundaries of
the usual gallery-spectator experience. Using
the latest SENSORY 4 TM
technology,
including
large-scale projections on
dozens of screens, multi-channel animated graphics and
surround sound, the gallery-space is utterly transformed
into an immersive, participatory experience, where the
‘viewer’ is able to literally step into and walk through
the painted worlds of the French Impressionist masters.
Projections of pieces by Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cezanne
and others reveal subtle details and unexpected angles
and transport viewers back to the streets of 19th century
Paris, re-creating the bright bohemian atmosphere with
colors, light and shadow, accompanied by the music
of Debussy, Tchaikovsky, Ravel and Offenbach. QB-3,
Lenexpo Exhibition Complex, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103,
pavilion 3, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 791 58
28, www.monet-cezanne.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Tickets 350Rbl, Sat and Sun 450Rb.
Family ticket (2 adults plus 1 or 2 kids) 900/1,000Rbl,
Sat and Sun 1,000/1,100Rbl.
ThrOugh 10.05 Sunday
Her Imperial Majesty’s Hermitage
2014 marked the 250th
anniversary of the Hermitage’s creation. In honor of
the museum’s long and
esteemed life viewers are
invited to enter the world
of the Hermitage as Her
Majesty Catherine II experienced it. The exhibition
is based on Prussian explorer, ethnographer and
naturalist Johann Gottlieb
Georgi’s detailed descriptions of the Imperial Hermitage recorded in 1793-1794,
only 30 years after the museum’s official birthday. The
exhibition features several sections that display and describe the museum’s original structure. Also on display are
characteristic works from Catherine’s time, including the
Empress’ library and painting gallery and a collection of
rare objects from the East.QD-2, The State Hermitage,
The Nicholas Hall of the Winter Palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.
org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 400Rbl.
16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
ThrOugh 26.05 Tuesday
Petrograd Sky
In honor of the 100-year
anniversary of the start of
World War I, the museumapartment of poet A.A.
Blok presents an exhibition
on war and literature. The
exhibition concentrates on
the role of literature as witness to the experiences of
life at war. The exhibition
will display collections by
Blok, Gorodetsky, Kuzmin,
Remizov, Sologub, and
Shchepkina-Kupernik, as well as collectively pusblished
works and periodicals from the war years. The displays
will be accompanied by a multi-media program that
focuses in part on the the personal fates of these writerwitenesses, many of whom lived through the worst of the
war, serving as soldiers, medics and correspondants in the
thick of battle.QC-3, Memorial flat of Alexander Blok, ul.
Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 16,
www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 120Rbl.
ThrOugh 31.05 Sunday
Vintage Cars
The Motion project, with
the support of the Moscow
Museum of vintage cars
and vintage art collectors,
presents a unique collection of American, European
and Soviet vintage cars, all
in exquisite condition. To
help transport viewers of
all ages back in time, the
exhibition includes a special show program for kids.
Adults can find a nostalgic table filled with Soviet specialties, including childhood favourites like cotton candy.
For those feeling more mature, the company Simple will
be holding wine tastings. For the course of this year, the
cars on display will be refreshed and updated every three
months, so don’t miss your chance to see what’s on display this round!QPRISMA Shopping Centre, Vyborgskoe
shosee 503, bldg.1A, MPr. Prosveshcheniya, www.
auto-retro-museum.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Admission
300Rbl. Getting there: from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro
station take a free bus (it leaves every hour from the
bus station next to the Baskin Robbins cafe, pr. Prosveshcheniya 32/1) or marshrutka 555А, К456, К676;
from Ozerki metro station take bus 109,109А, 109B.
For all the latest concert, event and
exhibition news follow us on facebook at
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
ThrOugh 13.09 Sunday
“The ball roars, the ball gleams…”
St. Petersburg Social Entertainment
in the 18th-20th centuries
With over 300 displays from the State Museum of St. Petersburg History and the Russian National Library, this
exhibition submerges visitors in the infamous center of
the Imperial capital’s social life - the ball. At the heart of
the exhibit are the splendor and luxury of ball attire and
accessories. Photographs, posters and advertisements are
also on display and demonstrate the incredible variety
of Petersburg balls over time, from the Imperial through
the early Soviet eras. The exhibit also features interactive
events, including lectures on the history of ball attire and
master classes, where you can learn to dance the waltz or
communicate in the secret language of fans and decorative flowers.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 80 - 150Rbl.
05.02 Thursday - 29.03 Sunday
Vladimir Vorobyov
Part of a series of exhibitions at ROSPHOTO whose goal
is to acquaint contemporary viewers with the work of
outstanding photographers from Russia and the Soviet
Union, this solo exhibition of Novokuznetsk photographer
Vladimir Vorobyov is an excellent chance to experience
the photographer’s powerful work from the end of the
Soviet era. The exhibition is a retrospective of the artist’s
work spanning from the end of the 1970s to the end of
the 1980s. Included in the exposition are works from two
contingent cycles dedicated to documentation of everyday people in Novokuznetsk and to the steelworkers at the
Novokuznetsk Iron and Steel Plant.QD-3, The State Russian Centre of Photography ROSPHOTO, Bol. Morskaya
ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.
rosphoto.org. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 100-200Rbl.
Erarta exhibitions
Through February 23, 2015
“Bond” - Olga Boldyreff
Olga Boldyreff was born in 1957 into a family of Russian
emigres in Nantes, France. Her work has been acclaimed
for its high level of craftsmanship, its use of traditionally
domestic materials, such as yarn and thread, and interdisciplinary artistic methods. This winter, Erarta Museum
is hosting a solo exhibition of her works that weave together her real and imagined, remembered and dreamed
experiences of France and Russia. The exhibition includes
a series of graphic works, created especially for the Erarta
exhibition, which show various images of the Don and
Loire rivers as a single visual sequence, as well as paintings featuring symbols of St. Petersburg.
February 4 - March 15, 2015
Hats in the 21st Century
Ireland born and London based milliner Philip
Treacy is known for turning heads. His fantastic,
often over the top hat
designs have caused
media sensations all
over the world, photographed atop the heads
of royal family members,
Hollywood
actresses,
and American pop stars. Treacy’s masterfully crafted
pieces know no boundries in color, shape or material: he uses everything from feathers, to live plants to
textiles, fur, plastic, metal and even electronical appliances. The exhibition at St. Petesburg’s contemporary
art museum is the largest exhibition of Treacy’s work
in 25 years and features more than 100 unique objects,
75 of which are head pieces.
February 27 - April 27, 2015
Oscar Rabin
Born in Moscow in 1928, painter Oscar Rabin was a
member of the progressive intelligentsia in the Soviet
Union in the 1960s-70s. He was a leader of the Russian
nonconformist movement, an organizer of the wellknown dissident “Bulldozer Exhibition” in 1974, and
one of the founding members of the Lianozovo Group.
Rabin was forced to emigrate from the Soviet Union in
1978 and moved to Paris, where he lives and works to
this day. The artist’s solo exhibition at the Erarta will
display only his most recent pieces, created in the past
ten years. The exhibition will also feature screenings
of documentary films about the artist’s life and work.
QB-3, Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art, VO, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Open 11:00
- 22:00. Closed Tue.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
17
Feature
CELEBRATING
RUSSIA’S WINTER
As you still reel from the festive onslaught
of Christmas, New Year, Christmas again - oh,
and Old New Year - Russia steps in with the
jab, uppercut and haymaker of Maslenitsa,
Defender’s Day and Women’s Day. Read our
guide to the pre-Spring holiday season, and
you may not need to throw in the towel.
Seconds out, round two...
18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Features
February is the coldest month in Russia, and after three or
four months of dark days and cloudy weather, we all need
a reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty
of reasons to gather together with friends and celebrate life
in general. The season kicks off in romantic style with Valentine’s Day, a time for couples to celebrate their love and for
singles to make the most of being single. This is followed
nine days later by Defender of the Fatherland day, a great
excuse for the girls to celebrate the courage and fearlessness of their man, and for the lads to get together and just
celebrate being blokes with vodka, beer and the sorts of
stories they wouldn’t dare tell the girls, brave as they are.
If and when you survive these two celebrations, it’s time
to kick back and relax with a pancake or five through the
week of Maslenitsa, and once this marathon effort is over,
you’re ready for The Big One – International Women’s Day.
Roses are red, violets are blue, if you don’t buy her flowers,
that’s the end of you…
Valentine’s Day
Few countries seem to ooze romance the way Russia does
and it is surprising that Valentine’s Day is a relatively recent import. However, it is now widely celebrated and if
you intend to go out this Valentine’s, be prepared to book
in advance: restaurants are crowded and bars are packed
on the night of February 14 as couples dine together to
commemorate their love, and singles flock to clubs offering special programmes to bring the lonely, unattached, or
just plain frisky together. The traditions are similar to those
in other countries, couples give each other flowers, heartshaped boxes of chocolates, greeting cards, and merry hell
if either one forgets.
Love is in the air
Russia’s Northern Capital is filled to the brim with romantic hotspots: the Venice of the North did produce Pushkin,
Russia’s greatest love poet, after all. Even the most stonehearted and cynical human cannot fail to be moved by the
city’s innate romance on a trip to wintry St. Petersburg. Any
season can be the season of romance in this city, so we’ve
compiled our list of the city’s best locales for a little amorous action.
As the name suggests, you shouldn’t miss the Winter Palace in winter. When dusk arrives in the late afternoon, this
makes for a fine early twilight walk through the museum.
Wander through the Hermitage, along Raphael’s loggia,
taking in the views of the picturesque and frosty Neva
River. That there are fewer people about contributes greatly
to the atmosphere, as you can admire the masterpieces at
your leisure, without having to wrestle a coach-party just
to get a decent view. You may even begin to feel that this
wondrous palace is all yours, but for the grandmotherly
chaperon sitting in each room keeping a beady eye on you.
Ice skating simply breathes romance. If it is not the ruddy
cheeked glow or the graceful skaters, it is those first time
skaters who take to the ice in pairs and have to hang off
each other just to stay upright. We know you have all been
there, you little devils… Falling on your behind may not
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
seem terribly conducive to the whispering of sweet nothings, but it’s a pretty quick way to fall into your lover’s arms.
There are a lot of ice rinks set up in most parks around town
so you don’t have to look hard for somewhere to lace up
those skates. After skating we recommend a mug of warm
spicy mulled wine in a cosy bar.
The islands to the north of the city offer miles of relaxed
wandering. Kamenny Ostrov (“Stone Island”) with its exclusive houses and manicured lawns is a lovely quiet spot.
Elagin Island offers uninterrupted strolling amidst natural
forest free from the usual city distractions, in fact it’s easy
to feel that you’ve left the city altogether. Here you can also
visit the ornate Elagin Palace, the first architectural project
completed by Carlo Rossi, and on weekends outside you
can often hear swing or jazz music coming from the park’s
loudspeakers, or a live band striking up a tune. So if anyone
feels like dancing…
No romantic city guide would be complete without mentioning Potseluyev Most, or the Bridge of Kisses. Considered
the most romantic of all bridges in the city, it crosses the
Moika Canal near pl. Truda and ul. Glinki. The word on the
street is that whoever should kiss while standing on the
bridge will stay with that person forever and have a happy
and harmonious marriage. Like all urban legends, however,
how true this one is remains to be seen, but it remains a
popular place for men to propose marriage. We have heard
that the name of the bridge comes from the man who
owned the pub on the corner of ul. Glinki, but Landlord’s
Bridge just doesn’t have the same ring to it.
At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter where you are - in
such a romantic city as this, a metro platform, the bread
aisle in the supermarket, even the produkty shop on the
corner can become unexpected hidden pockets of romance. Other romantic spots include the observation
platform at the top of Smolny Cathedral (a great place to
smoulder away with a fine view of the cityscape below),
a stroll through the Summer Gardens or even a trip to the
Mariinsky. Go on, don’t be shy…
February - March 2015
19
Features
Wait For Me by
Konstantin Simonov
Wait for me, and I’ll come back!
Wait with all you’ve got!
Wait, when dreary yellow rains
Tell you, you should not.
Wait when snow is falling fast,
Wait when summer’s hot,
Wait when yesterdays are past,
Others are forgot.
Wait, when from that far-off place,
Letters don’t arrive.
Wait, when those with whom you wait
Doubt if I’m alive.
Wait for me, and I’ll come back!
Wait in patience yet
When they tell you off by heart
That you should forget.
Even when my dearest ones
Say that I am lost,
Even when my friends give up,
Sit and count the cost,
Drink a glass of bitter wine
To the fallen friend Wait! And do not drink with them!
Wait until the end!
Wait for me and I’ll come back,
Dodging every fate!
“What a bit of luck!” they’ll say,
Those that did not wait.
They will never understand
How amidst the strife,
By your waiting for me, dear,
You had saved my life.
How I made it, we shall know,
Only you and I.
You alone knew how to wait We alone know why!
Konstantin Simonov said
of his own masterpiece,
“There is no special story
to ‘Wait for me’. I was just
going to war, and the
woman I loved was staying behind. And I wrote
her a letter in verse.” Yet
the words that follow
were to be engraved in the hearts of countless Russians during the Great Patriotic War: it was cut out of
the paper, copied out, learned by heart, and sent back
in letters to wives and sweethearts. Not even originally intended for publication, in the history of Russian poetry it would be hard to find a poem which
had such an impact.
20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Maslenitsa
Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been absorbed into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of
winter and the arrival of spring. Running from February 16th
to the 22nd, and known in other countries as Mardi Gras or
Carnival, In Russia it celebrates the last week before Lent with a
massive, knock-down drag-out pancake-fest designed to carb
load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of abstinence. On
the last day of Maslenitsa, there’s usually a union of pagan and
Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing winter –
is set ablaze with true mediaeval pyromaniac glee.
Russian Wide Maslenitsa in Pskov
Located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg, near
the Estonian border, Pskov is a great place to get away from
the city for a day, breathe some fresh air and enjoy a walk
back in time to mediaeval Russia. Steeped in history and rich
in tradition and culture, there’s no better place to experience
the particularly Russian holiday of Maslenitsa than Pskov. Festivities during Maslenitsa usually include a bustling crafts fair,
folk songs and dances, troika-racing through the snow, ice
sculptures, pole-climbing displays of strength and virility by
the gents, doll-making from the ladies and did we mention
bliny? Oh, the bliny. Stacks and stacks of pancakes bought,
sold and devoured, which culminate in a contest whereby
participants have 10 minutes to prepare the largest number
of bliny their hot little frying pans can handle. The delectable
results are then auctioned off to benefit the Church of the
Holy Martyr of Faith, Hope and Charity. Don’t forget to stay
for the burning of Kostroma and cheer on the end of winter!
Read more about Pskov on page 49.
Defender of the
Fatherland Day
Defender of the Fatherland Day (it sounds just as longwinded in Russian) was originally a holiday to commemorate the
formation of the Red Army in 1918, and is still celebrated
in many former Soviet republics. In 1995 it became known
as the Day of the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend
for changing Soviet names, although it’s most commonly
known simply as Men’s Day. Although technically it is still
a military holiday, it’s also a public holiday, so all men are
celebrated, whether they’ve ever worn khaki or not, and
has in effect become the male counterpart (or perhaps
pale shadow) of International Women’s Day. February
23rd is therefore accompanied by a host of beer and other
alcohol-related festivals to help the day go with a bang.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Features
Russian Women
On March 8, Russia celebrates International Women’s Day.
One of Russia’s biggest public holidays, it is second only
to New Year and Russians go all out to congratulate their
women. It’s impossible to ignore the infectious spirit of this
holiday. Beaming men wait with red roses at metro exits and
happy couples linger about in the streets. See them drinking champagne, while the first sunshine after many dark
winter months warms their hearts and their relationships.
Employers would be fools to forget to give gifts to their female staff. Many clubs and restaurants celebrate this special
day the evening before, so be sure to mark your calendar
and visit one. Women’s Day is has its roots in the (pre)revolution days. It was first celebrated in Russia on the last Sunday
of February 1913, in conjunction with the peace movement
on the eve of the First World War. The demonstrations marking International Women’s Day in Russia proved to be the
first stage of the Russian Revolution. In 1917 Russian women
rallied on the last Sunday of February for their right to bread
and peace. This demonstration was part of the movement
that led to the February Revolution. Four days later the last
tsar was forced to abdicate and women won their right to
vote. After converting the date to the Gregorian calendar,
March 8th became International Women’s Day. It is celebrated in every nook and cranny in Russia and flowers are
sold by the dozens. Following the October Revolution, the
Bolshevik feminist Alexandra Kollontai persuaded Lenin to
make it an official holiday, and during the Soviet period it
continued to celebrate ‘the heroic woman worker’. In the
West, International Women’s Day was commemorated during the 1910s and 1920s, but dwindled. It was revived by the
rise of feminism in the 1960s. In 1975, the United Nations
began sponsoring International Women’s Day. The general
idea of having an international women’s day worldwide was
first put forward at the turn of the 20th century amid rapid
world industrialization and economic expansion that led to
protests over working conditions.
Not so much the pillars of society as its elegant, yet steadfast Ionic columns, a veritable host of remarkable women
have helped shape Mother Russia over the centuries. To
mark International Women’s Day, we have selected just
a few of the most influential, illustrious and illuminating
female figures ever to have graced Russian history. You
should never forget your granny on March 8th, so nor will
we: in fact, we’ll kick off our list with Vladimir the Great’s.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Olga of Kiev
A convert to Christianity at
least 30 years before Kiev
Rus’ followed suit, Olga was,
by all accounts, not someone to be trifled with. In
945, her husband Igor, son
of Rurik, was killed by the
Drevlians while attempting to collect tribute – it
was apparently the second
collection within a month,
hence their ire. In response, Olga had various Drevlian envoys buried or burned alive, before inviting another 5,000 to
a feast, who were also slaughtered. She then sent an army
to raze their city to the ground with the aid of – we kid you
not – incendiary-equipped birds. Most likely of Varangian
descent, her name is a derivation of the Old Norse Helga,
meaning “holy”, and is of course still in common use today.
Upon conversion to Christianity she took the name Elena,
and ruled as regent until her son, Svyatoslav the Brave,
reached maturity in 963. In fact she ran domestic matters for
a good few years after that, as Svyatoslav was much happier
waging war on neighbouring fiefdoms. Mindful no doubt
of her husband’s fate, Olga made changes to the tribute system in accordance with which appointed officials, and not
the ruler himself, did the collecting. She is thus credited with
making the first recorded legal reform in Eastern Europe.
Nadezhda Durova
The daughter of a Russian
army officer, Nadezhda Durova was raised in the care of
her father’s subordinates following a near-death experience in her early years when
her unstable mother, who
had wanted a son, snatched
her from the arms of her
nanny and threw her out
of the window of a moving
carriage. It is said that her favourite childhood toy was a gun,
and she wrote in her own memoir The Cavalry Maiden that
her “first cradle was a horse’s saddle”. The call of the army did
not leave Durova when her father retired, and in 1807 she absconded from home, disguised herself as a boy and joined up,
fighting with distinction in the Prussian campaign of 1806-7.
When she finally wrote home from the front, her family used
their connections to try to locate her, and word that a woman
was serving in the Imperial Army eventually reached an intrigued Alexander I. When she was summoned to court, Durova so impressed the Tsar that he awarded her the Cross of
St George and promoted her to the rank of lieutenant. In 1812
she saw action at both Smolensk and Borodino, sustaining a
leg injury at the latter from a cannonball. The Cavalry Maiden,
considered one of the earliest autobiographies written in Russian, may never have come to light at all had Durova not been
persuaded many years later to publish her war diaries by a
certain Alexander Pushkin.
February - March 2015
21
Features
Catherine the Great
Alexandra Kollontai
Born Sophia Augusta Frederica, Catherine took her
more familiar name upon
conversion to Orthodoxy
at the age of 15. Her zeal
to be accepted in the Russian court was such that
the young princess very
nearly died of pneumonia
a few months previously
as a result of walking barefoot round the palace at night reciting her Russian lessons.
But although Catherine did not inherit Peter the Great’s
genes, she certainly fell heir to his expansionist instincts,
rapidly augmenting her empire to the west, south and east.
She also opened up Russia’s second route to the open sea
through the Bosphorous following her emphatic victory
over the Ottomans in 1774. At home, Catherine presided
over a flourishing of social and cultural life, although the
path she trod between autocratic ruler and enlightened
thinker was not always smooth: an enthusiastic correspondent with the leading intellectuals of the day, shortly before
the Pugachev rebellion she famously stated to Voltaire, “no
single peasant in Russia could not eat chicken whenever he
pleased”. Undoubtedly one of the central architects of Russia’s rise to the status of global power, Catherine may have
been a conflicted character, but her legacy is beyond doubt.
Probably the most prominent woman in the Soviet
administration following
the October 1917 Revolution, Alexandra Kollontai
was the first People’s Commissar for Social Welfare,
and during her relatively
brief spell in governnment,
founded the Zhenotdel
(“Women’s Department”),
which worked to improve the lives of women under the
new regime. Born in St Petersburg in 1872, Kollontai (she
retained her surname from her brief first marriage) had become interested in radical political thought while studying in Switzerland. Originally from the Menshevik faction,
she went across to the Bolshevik’s in 1915, but after the
revolution became increasingly critical of Lenin’s policies,
and she was ultimately sidelined into a diplomatic career.
Appointed Soviet Ambassador to Norway in 1923, and
later serving in Mexico and Sweden, she was to remain in
post in Stockholm until the end of the Second World War.
An unflinching advocate of free love, Kollontai’s death in
the early 1950s, just short of her 80th birthday, meant that
she did not live to see the wider embracing of her ideas in
the decades that followed. Her second marriage, to fellow
Communist Pavel Dybenko, was also not to last, although
Leningrad’s town planners have had the last word: Ulitsa
Kollontai and Ulitsa Dybenko run parallel in the eastern
part of the city, aptly connected by Prospekt Bolshevikov!
Sofia Tolstaya
Behind every great man,
and all that, but this literary giant’s devoted spouse
must really be put in a category of one. If you want
evidence, look no further
than the fact that she is
said to have copied out
– and edited – the manuscript of War and Peace
not once, but seven times.
Sofia was introduced to her husband’s writings at an early
stage in their relationship: on the eve of their wedding he
is said to have given her his diairies, which detailed, among
other things, his “idiscretions” with female serfs, one of
whom had borne him a child. Undeterred (although presumably more than a little miffed), Sofia added another 13
official offspring to the Tolstoy total, although “only” eight
were to survive childhood. Tolstaya can also lay claim to
being one of history’s first social photocorrespondents,
having taken up photography in 1887: she left a collection
of over 1000 photographs depicting not only her husband
and life on the Yasnaya Polyana estate, but also more generally the last days of tsarist Russia. She also left her diaries,
and a memoir simply entitled My Life. Sofia’s 48-year marriage ended on a sour note: after continual conflict over
Toltsoy’s stated determination to relinquish all his worldly
possessions, Leo abruptly left his wife at the age of 82, and
died less than two weeks later.
22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Sofia Kovalevskaya
Born in 1850, Kovalevskaya was a renowned
mathematician,
writer
and advocate of women’s
rights in the 19th century.
Her struggle to obtain the
best education possible
forced her to study overseas, and she entered the
University of Heidelberg
in 1869. Dedicated to social reform, Kovalevskaya
made a key contribution
to opening university doors to women in Russia. In 1883
she lectured at the University of Stockholm and was
made Professor of Mechanics, becoming the first female
professor in Northern Europe. In 1888 she was awarded
the coveted Prix Bordin by the French Academy of Sciences for a pioneering paper on the motions of bodies,
and the following year, after vociferous lobbying by her
peers, was granted a Chair at the Russian Academy of Sciences, although she was never to receive a full professorship. In addition to her mathematical writings, Kovalevskaya also published her memoir A Russian Childhood,
co-wrote a number of plays, and authored the semiautobiographical novel Nihilist Girl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Features
Anna Pavlova
Marina Raskova
Born in Ligovo, St. Petersburg in 1881, Anna Pavlova’s passion for ballet
was ignited at an early age
when her mother took her
to see Sleeping Beauty at
the Mariinsky. Perhaps best
known for her creation of
the Dying Swan, Pavlova’s
rise was by no means a
steady one, and it was only
her extraordinary dedication that enabled la petite sauvage to become one of the greatest prima ballerinas of
the 20th century. Her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences all over the world, in fact it is said that no dancer,
before or since, has travelled as extensively: 350,000 miles
in 15 years. In order to better support her frail, rigid feet,
Pavlova added a wooden block to her ballet shoes in what
was considered a cheat at the time, but gave rise to the
now universal pointe shoe. She moved to London in 1912,
where she went on to become a major force in the development of British ballet. In 1931 Pavlova contracted pneumonia while on tour in The Hague, refusing a remedial
operation that might have meant she would never dance
again. Succumbing to pleurisy shortly afterwards, her last
words were said to be “Get my Swan costume ready.”
On a lighter note, in 1938
Marina Raskova took part
in the first non-stop flight
from Moscow to the Russian Far East. With an all-female crew, the flight lasted
26 hours and 29 minutes,
but for Raskova the journey
was to last a great deal longer: in poor visibility they
lost their bearings to the
landing site, and with her navigators’ compartment nonsurvivable in the event of a forced landing, she was forced
to bail out in mid-air. Armed with only a revolver and two
chocolate bars, it was another 10 days before she found
the plane in the wilderness. Following the outbreak of the
Great Patriotic War, Raskova formed three women-only
air regiments, evidently using her personal connections
with Stalin to overcome both bureaucratic and chauvinistic hurdles. The most famous of these was undoubtedly
the 46th Taman Guards Night Bomber Aviation Regiment,
nicknamed die Nachthexen (“Night Witches”) by the Germans, which flew over 24,000 sorties during the course of
the war in antiquated bi-planes, and produced a remarkable 24 Heroes of the Soviet Union. Raskova herself, whose
childhood ambition was to be an opera singer, perished in
1943 attempting a forced landing near Stalingrad. The first
Soviet combatant of the war to be given a state funeral,
her ashes were interred in the Kremlin walls.
Marina Tsvetaeva
Were you to compile a list
of countries producing
tragic literary geniuses,
Russia would probably be
right near the top. If you
then made another list just
for Russia, then Marina Tsvetaeva would most likely
be at or near the top of that
one. Born in Moscow in
1892, Tsvetaeva’s family left
Russia for warmer climes during her early teens in a futile
attempt to prevent her mother from succumbing to tuberculoisis, and in 1910, aged just 18, she published her first collection of poems to considerable acclaim. Having returned
to Russia after the revolution, with no financial support, and
her husband Sergei Efron fighting with the White Army, in
1919 she placed both their daughters in a state orphanage,
where the youngest died a year later aged just 3 years old.
In 1922 Tsvetaeva went into political exile, living in poverty
in Paris, Berlin (where she was reunited with Sergei, who
she thought had been killed) and then Prague. In 1939 she
went back to the Soviet Union where both Sergei and her
surviving daughter Ariadna were arrested as spies. In 1941,
Sergei was executed, Ariadna imprisoned, and Tsvetaeva
hanged herself not long afterwards. Boris Pasternak wrote:
‘The greatest recognition and reevaluation of all awaits Tsvetaeva, an outstanding twentieth century poet.’ Tsvetaeva
left an immeasurable literary legacy, but her rehabilitation
was not to begin until the 1960s.
Valentina Tereshkova
Not only the first woman
but also, as her enrolment
in the Soviet Air Force was
purely a formality for her
to officially become a cosmonaut, the first civilian in
space, Valentina Tereshkova
is the first great woman on
our list to still be alive today.
A textile worker by trade, it
was her weekend hobby,
skydiving, that led to her advancement into the fledgling
Soviet space programme. Selected from over 400 applicants, Tereshkova blasted off on her first (and only) flight on
16 June 1963, completing 48 earth orbits in just under three
days, in the process notching up more space time than the
entire US manned space programme had up to that point. Ha!
Tereshkova’s post-cosmic career took her first into engineering, thence into politics, where she became a high-ranking
member of the Supreme Soviet and the Central Committee.
Nor did her star fade with the collapse of the Soviet Union –
Tereshkova remains a revered figure in Russian public life, and
was one of the flag-carriers at the opening ceremony of the
2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. At one time a member of the
research team looking into the feasibility of going to Mars, in
2013 Tereshkova, then 76, was quoted as saying that she’d still
be prepared to go, even if it ended up being a one-way trip.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
23
Where to eat
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and
fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian
to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure
to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so
make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.
Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl
€€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl
€€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian
Caviar Bar and Restaurant
Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the
first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but
the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles.
The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly
proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not
surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu,
but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly
hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by
the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe,
Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66
22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open Wed - Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW
Cococo
Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the frontman of the ska-punk
band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from
the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here
you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which
is made using local farm products, as well as homemade
fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented,
and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu
and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings
and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff
are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn’t available, and you can request an English version of the menu.
QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat until last guest. €€. PTAGSW
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Idiot
With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy
antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material
in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the
atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional
Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food
and a reasonable kids menu. However many people come
to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink.
Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka,
while the cordial English speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu.QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
Khutor Vodograi
A consummately presented restaurant features an enormous tree inside, lovely whitewashed walls and dark
beams that recreate the feel of a Ukrainian village house.
They offer an extensive menu of authentic treats to
tempt any palate. Try the home-made sausages and the
black bread with salo, the traditional Ukrainian delicacy
made from salt-cured pig fat.QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 2,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 57 37, www.vodograi.ru.
Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULEGSW
NEP
NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy
and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back,
order your meal and be enthralled by the music, often
featuring a charming, personality-packed star singer. They
offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the
performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s
entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€.
PTALEGSW
Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1
Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust
kind of a place where working men wash down cheap
vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle
inspired place is as far away from that kind of establishment as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars,
complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic
dishes are rich and well made, making this a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have
possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as
a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.
ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€.
PTAUEGSW
Tsar
Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel
like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal
glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and
the toilets are even encased inside giant, leather-lined
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no
doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere
here is a real lesson in imperial elegance.QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00,
www.tsar-project.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€.
PTAVEGSW
Vkus Est
Located along a quiet stretch of the Fontanka, with
only the Bolshoi Drama Theater as company, Vkus Yest
deserves to have more trade than it will probably ever
get - a shame because both the atmosphere and the
food are deserving of serious attention. Serving new
Russian cuisine - simple, local ingredients prepared to
traditional recipes with a twist - Vkust Yest has a lot
going for it. The 1970s-style interior is also worth mentioning, including black-painted metal detailing, polished concrete, comfy camel-coloured leather cushions on the banquettes and huge windows that offer
great views of the canal.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky
82, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 33 76, www.
facebook.com/tastetoeat. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri
12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
€€. PTASW
Asian and Indian
Apteka
Apteka is a restaurant with an innovative approach to
marketing - its owners keep the location a closely guarded
secret. So as to not spoil the mystery, all we can say is that
the restaurant’s entrance can be found in the restroom of
another well-known restaurant on Nevsky Prospekt. The
restaurant, whose name literally means “pharmacy” or
“drugstore”, features a menu of original dishes from the
Indian chef Jimmy Singh and unusual, aromatic cocktails
prepared by the bartenders/chemists in his laboratory. Call
to reserve a table and all will be revealed.QD-3, Nevsky
pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 931 305 22 77. Open 15:00
- 01:00. €€. AGS
Cardamon
Located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg, this gem of Indian cuisine
still has yet to be fully discovered. The warm-coloured
decor features Indian tapestries on the walls and painted
tile detail. The delicious naan, a puffed Indian bread, and
crispy poppadom are definitely worth sampling and go
well with any dish on the menu. Ravi, originally from
India and a long time resident in St. Petersburg, runs
the show around here and is determined to make it a
great success. Food-wise, he’s got everything right. We
haven’t yet tried anything from the additional selection
of Russian dishes on the menu, but as far as Indian food
goes, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2,
1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313
38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €.
PTAVGSW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
25
Where to eat
Beer Restaurants
Curry House
Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta
took the courage to open his own Curry House in the
Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry
House is a perfect addition to the city’s food scene, serving food from all parts of India. The menu is extensive
and we really enjoyed the wide variety of dishes: Samosa,
Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated
chick peas) served with plain rice and off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant, Curry House offers
a wide variety of vegetarian dishes. More good news is
the restaurant’s great location: basically next door to the
Mariinsky, it’s a perfect spot to spice things up before a
performance!QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel.
(+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW
Dve Palochki
This chain of superior Japanese restaurants is practically ubiquitous around the city, especially in the centre. Luckily, the
restaurant’s high level of service and comfort is also standard
across the board. The menu includes traditional sushi rolls,
soups and teas. We love the atlantic rolls (salmon, philadelphia and eel) as well as the wonderful spread of baked rolls
- we recommend the crab rolls with hot shitake mushroom
sauce. The unique restrooms are still a bit of a mystery; two
toilets in one cubicle - what’s that about? With more than
24 locations in the city, including ul. Italianskaya 6 (metro
Nevsky pr.), it’s almost difficult not to conveniently run across
one during your stay in St. Petersburg.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 02 22, www.dvepalochki.
ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00. €. PTAVSW
Tandoor
Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is
about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get.
For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic
Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you
can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst
mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan
bread. With two spacious rooms, this place is ideal for dining in large groups.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAGSW
Shchyot budte dobry – Check please!
26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Bierstube
Serving beer from their own brewery, the Marriott’s
Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are
looking for some delicious local brews. Choose from
a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony
or inside the wood and stucco-decorated centre of
the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer
snacks like fried calamari and cheese sticks before
the main events, Bavarian and Czech-inspired meaty
heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk
down the canal from the metro station means you’ll
have a chance to walk off all the calories after.QC-4,
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West
Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance
via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812
610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
€€. PTAULGSW
Birreria
Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passazh
shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view of
the beautiful Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. It’s a great
place to stop by with friends, watch a game or drink a few
beers and unwind after a week of hard labour. The menu
offers classic Italian favourites that are worth every rouble.
Service is good and unobtrusive and the beer selection is
enough to put anyone in a good mood, so you’re bound
to have a good time regardless of your company!QE-3,
Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
943 60 04, www.birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€.
PTAGSW
Dickens
This island of British culture, located near the Fontanka
river, has beer from all around the world, including
more than ten on tap, as well a good selection of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the
chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge
portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a
great hangover cure and really authentically British.
Dickens offers a pub atmosphere, as close to a real British pub as you’ll find in Russia, and also features a fine
dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky
Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63,
www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. €€. PAGSW
Kriek Brasserie
With five boutique beers on tap, including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a
place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach.
If you’re dreaming of a glass of cold, sweet cherry beer
paired with Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the
answer to your prayers. Also at Italyanskaya ul. 17 (metro
Nevsky pr.).QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 235 46 21, www.kriek.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30. €. PAGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
KwakInn
Kwakinn is a Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere
and piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the longgone Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude
that says - settle in, we’re all friends here. This tiny, bright
basement pub (the yellow walls bring a lot of light to what
should be a dark space) has one central bar surrounded by
cosy booths with the odd tv here and there usually showing football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian
frittes alone are worth the journey.QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr.
37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.
kwakinn.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
€€. PAGSW
Palm Belgian Brasserie
Located smack in the centre of the city, just off Nevsky, the
Palm is a convenient and comfortable place, notably if you
appreciate beer and comfort food. Their bottled Trappist
beer selection is impressive and the Whitte Trappist we
tried on tap was excellent. If you’re looking for something
satisfying and Belgian to snack on, make sure to order one
of their Belgian waffles with your choice of sweet or savory
toppings. As a plus, their coffee is, perhaps surprisingly for
a low-key beer restaurant, also truly delicious.QD-2, Bol.
Konyushennaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
81 51, www.palminspb.ru. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 06:00. €€. PAS
Caucasian
Baklazhan
The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism
seems to be the mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist
at Baklazhan (Aubergine) is in the touches of deep purple,
the wine bottles lining the walls and a sort of market stall
selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself
is standard Georgian fare sprinkled with a few innovative
dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria
Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
+7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00
until last guest. €. PTAULVEGSW
Khochu Kharcho
“Khochu Kharcho!” is Russian for “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew with mutton/lamb,
vegetables, rice in a highly spiced broth. Here they serve
three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth
trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a
Georgian restaurant, it’s a Megrelian restaurant and there
is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the
western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other
must-try dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian
khachapuri and the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken
stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Open 24hrs. €€.
PTALVESW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
27
Where to eat
Vegetarian
Vegetarianism appeared
in Russia in the 14th century through the followers of the Lenten mode
of life. In the beginning
of the 20th century St.
Petersburg had a blooming vegetarian culture.
However, the revolution
of 1917 stopped all that as it was considered to be a
reflection of bourgeois ideology. Nowadays it’s again
slowly becoming popular. While your friends may think
that eating only potatoes and mushrooms for a couple
of weeks will do, for a pleasant meat free stay in St. Petersburg you need more nutrition.
Botanika
Excellent vegetarian food including outstanding salads
(try the tabouleh), great pasta and filling soups. Reminiscent of a Victorian dining parlour with greenery scattered with a touch of a 70s wholefood cafe. The interior
sports three calming tones of green, there are pumpkins
and flowers strewn around and the sofas are soft.QE-2,
Ul. Pestelya 7, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272
70 91, www.cafebotanika.ru. Open 11:00 - 00:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAGSW
Kashmir
Don’t come here expecting your classical Indian cuisine.
It’s far too hippy for that. They do esoteric Indian vegetarian fare, complete with fresh fruit garnish though
dill also seems to be considered a staple here, as does
a cucumber and tomato array that is often quite out of
place. They’ve got samosas and dahl, raita, soy steaks
and a lot of dishes we can’t pronounce.QE-3, Bol. Moskovskaya ul. 7, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 575 63
69, www.chainiydom.ru/cafe/kashmir. Open 11:00
until last guest. €. PAVEGSW
Ukrop
This quaint vegetarian cafe is a nice place to relax and
grab a healthy meal that won’t break the bank. On the
first floor there is a counter where you can order already
prepared food for a quick bite and on the second floor is a
full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing
atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The
friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each
guest and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian,
vegan and raw food options. And, for those of you who
are artistically inclined, feel free to draw with the colored
pencils that sit on each table! Also at Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 14.QE-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. Open 09:00 23:00. €. PTALGSW
28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Mamalyga
Just a stones throw from Nevsky, this restaurant offers you
an assortment of food from the Caucasus region, including Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian,
and the cuisine of Swaneti and Guria. Authenticity is a
word that the owners use quite often to describe their
food and it comes through in the food that is prepared
by local (to the region) cooks. The menu features a mix of
well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashliks, salads, khachapuri, and pretty much
anything else you could want from the South Caucasus.
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open 10:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAVGSW
European
Fartuk
Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (Russian for ‘apron’) is one of those
charming family-run places that make you want to return
again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table
and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre
of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone, which
is enhanced by the welcoming and attentive wait staff.
The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on
Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks make
excellent refreshments.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17,
MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 11:00
until last guest. €. PTAGSW
Kroo Cafe
It’s always nice to see new places appear in central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the
proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Sad, Kroo Cafe
serves breakfasts beginning at 8:30 and keeps on going
into the night. The well balanced menu is created by their
French chef, who is keen on buying his own products at
the market, ensuring the freshness of his ingredients.
Topped off by friendly and smiling servers, Kroo Cafe is
sure not to disappoint.QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www.kroocafe.com.
Open 08:30 - 00:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PTASW
Let it bar
A little off the beaten track, Let it Bar is a subterranean bar
with a slightly poky atmosphere. The bar staff are pleasant
and friendly, although the service is a little slow. The interior
consists of bare brick arched columns which are both attractive and impressive, and plastered white walls. A walk-in
fridge in one wall gives the staff access to a large array of
food and provides a splash of colour in the space. Let it Bar
offers a convenient, quiet place to have a drink with friends,
but it has little to make it stand out from the crowd.QE-3,
Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 32
46, www.vk.com/letitbar. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €. PSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
Moskva
This restaurant’s rooftop location, on the 6th floor of the
upscale Nevsky Centre, draws in a well-dressed crowd of
wealthier diners looking to soak up the coveted view. The
interior is done out in various shades of cream with comfortable furniture in muted colours. Potted plants brighten
the place up, as does bowls of fresh fruit at the open,
central cooking stations. Another member of the Ginza
Project family, the kitchen keeps high standards: while the
menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe
with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains
- the food is definitely well-made.QE-3, Nevsky Centre
Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00
- 01:00. €€. PTALVSW
Mozhno
Enter this whimsically decorated space and prepare to be
transported to a new kind of dining experience. The menu
is designed according to the diet principles of French nutritionist, Pierre Dukan. However, non-dieting customers
can simply choose dishes at will and, likely, will not be
disappointed. Be prepared for innovative preparations of
classic protein-heavy foods - lots of fish and fowl, as well
as beef tongue and tender leg of lamb - served with whole
grain purees, fruits and vegetables. Beautifully arranged
and amply sized plates will leave you satisfied and smiling.QE-3, Ul. Marata 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
926 26 16, www.mozhno-est.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.
PASW
PirO.G.I. na Vosstaniya
Open 24 hours a day, this place is dedicated to music lovers
around the clock: there are DJ sets at night and the sounds
of French chanson or retro can be heard by day. The food
is simple, well-made and inexpensive. It’s a great place to
stop in for lunch - they have very reasonably priced lunch
specials every day - and the extensive menu includes all
kinds of comfort food at any time of day, such as Beef Stroganoff with mashed potatoes, salads, pastas, dumplings
and more. While you’re waiting for your food, you can
check out the walls, which are covered with the photos of
celebrities, or watch a silent film, usually being projected
on one of the walls.QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 72 15, www.piterogi.ru.
Open 24hrs. €. PAESW
Sunduk
Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly
packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively
atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly
running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a
great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. A dinner at Sunduk can
turn into an entire evening of good company, and good
music.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW
Vinostudia
This sleek, understated wine bar offers an open yet comfortably intimate space to enjoy a drink and/or meal. The interior
features a deft combination of high, beautifully vaulted ceilings, minimalist seating (as well as a few plush couches) and
a tasteful sprinkling of 1960s mod photography. They have
a well-selected list of very reasonably priced wines by the
glass, including a Bio Organic wine from France, and a much
more extensive bottle list. Plus, if you’re in the mood for
something a bit more substantial to accompany your beverage, there is a full, though modest, dinner menu.QD-2,
Bol. Konuyshennaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 931
62 28, www.vinostudia.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. €€. PASW
Fine dining
Soup Wine
Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this
sleek and pleasant diner. The menu is as small as the
place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups
and salads, but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta
and wine and huge salads that come in bowls piled
high with green leaves. Given the restaurant’s size and
how easy it is to sit and linger, listening to the operatic
soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book a table in advance.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €.
PAGSW
Astoria Café
Breathe history while dining at the newly renovated, freshly
decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is
located has seen over a century of history. This history can
be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior
and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect relaxed lunch or dinner after
roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes,
especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the
famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light
that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the
windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAUEGW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
29
Where to eat
the vessel’s heritage. Fresh fish is predictably a wise choice
in such a venue and certainly doesn’t disappoint and the
wine list nonchalantly flows over several pages. Fantastic food with inimitable views of the Venice of the North
makes this place one of the city’s most desirable eateries.
QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812
313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 until last
guest. €€€. PTALEGSW
L’Europe
Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in
the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own,
the interiors are stunning, especially the original Art Deco
stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are
made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of
the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’
(a kind of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon
caviar on top) is an expensive one of a kind treat and the
wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise
for the taste buds. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform
Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples.
Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand
Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open
07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 23:00, Jazz Evenings everyday 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz
Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€. PTALEGSW
Palkin
Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back
to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior
is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times,
which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a
meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting
with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar
and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes
from a bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course
special menu with specially selected wines, themed
around a different wine-growing region of the world.
Booking in advance is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr.
47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEGSW
The Flying Dutchman
At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy
Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views
of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the
river’s banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly
opposite diners. The Flying Dutchman complex includes
three different restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant
Terrasa. All cream, dark wood and clean lines, this place is
every bit the classy berth you would expect, where the
sharp modern interior doesn’t completely detract from
30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Victoria
A conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious,
yet classic Russian dishes that are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace
or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt
and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both
body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish
and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top
of the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also available.QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel,
Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99
11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
€€€. PTALEGSW
International
Arka
The soft lighting, exposed brick and sky-lights create a
chic, yet cosy ambience where you can sit and forget about
life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection
of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with
friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going
out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that
are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes
prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino
mushroom cream soup. And their kitchen is open until
06:00 in the morning! The prices are reasonable compared
to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave
with a good impression.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul.
27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 339 89 39, www.arka.spb.
ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGSW
Bolshaya Kukhnya
Bolshaya Kukhnya (“Big Kitchen”) is a huge panorama
restaurant located in the Galeria shopping centre, just a
stone’s throw away from Moskovsky train station. The
name is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up
to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups
of friends and families to enjoy a very wide menu of more
than 150 dishes from around the world. Among them
head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents pastas and pizzas,
burgers, homemade desserts and platters for two or more.
The little ones have their very own menu in their very own
restaurant. After filling their little bellies they can enjoy
a fun, exciting and educational entertainment program
while their parents relax in peace.QE-3, Galeria Shopping
Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
984 04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAULEGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
Deti Raika
St. Petersburg’s fashionable ulitsa Rubinshteina offers a real
plethora of trendy dens for artistic types, and the new St.
Petersburg branch of Moscow’s prosperous Deti Raika is certainly up there with the best of them. Taking its name from
the owner’s favourite film, the 1945 ‘Enfants du Paradis’, the
venue’s high ceilings, elegant furniture and beautifully panelled floor would fit right in as an atmospheric black and
white French film still. A wealthy array of cocktails adds to the
effortless class of your surroundings, and with a menu that
includes salads, sandwiches, soups, pizza, pasta and more,
it seems nothing has been overlooked.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 20 37, www.
detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. TAEGSW
Gosti
Dining in this continental restaurant is a bit like going to
your provincial granny’s cottage. That is, If your granny has
as much culinary taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of
the rooms has plenty of mismatched floral patterns, books
and decorative odds and ends on the walls, but the effect is
homey rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly
and the menu boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas
and dishes fresh off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes
allude again to the generosity of granny and can be easily
shared.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Open 12:00
until last guest. €€. PTAVEGSW
Geografia
As you might have guessed from the restaurant’s name, the
menu includes cuisine from all around the world. Here you
can enjoy the best from the Middle East, China, Vietnam,
Thailand, Mexico, Peru, Europe and Russia. Choosing a single
dish can be really tricky. But eating is only half the pleasure
at Georgafia; the restaurant takes great pride in its cocktails,
offering more than 40 original concoctions that are aimed to
make you cast away any preconceived ideas about matching
food and drink. If making a choice is too difficult, ask one of
the servers and they will be happy to be your guide on this
exotic holiday.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 340 00 74, www.geo-rest.com. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTAEGSW
Mansarda
Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom’s headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly
sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six
floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome
of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The interior is understated and the
glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as the restaurant in which it’s
served and shouldn’t disappoint even the most discerning
guests. Classic European tastes dominate, though Asian
influences are also given some attention and the fresh fish
based dishes in particular come highly recommended.QC3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 until
last guest. €€€. PTALVEGSW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
31
Where to eat
MarketPlace in Galeria
For a lively culinary experience, head to the MarketPlace, a
new restaurant located on the fourth-floor of the Galleria
shopping mall. The restaurant features an open kitchen,
where you can watch cooks prepare dishes from all over
the world. The MarketPlace team, inspired by their travels
all over the globe, have attempted to re-create the bustling,
aromatic atmosphere of a market, where food is quickly
made and reasonably priced, with the comforts and quality
of a high-end restaurant. The food is made from fresh ingredients and the restaurant’s interior is constructed only from
eco-friendly materials, including wood, ceramic and brick
detail. The space is designed for guests to sit comfortably,
sipping a glass of wine or a specialty cocktail, and watch the
MarketPlace magic unfold.QE-3, Galeria, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 981 169 88 28, www.marketplace.me. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW
Myzhenaty
Another of ulitsa Rubinshteina’s hip hideaways, the cafe
Myzhenaty’s translation ‘we are married’ perhaps refers
to the classic marriage of book and cafe. Here, jumbles of
tables and chairs peek through the maze of bookshelves,
where the literature itself constitutes most of the minimalist decor. An admittedly small menu offers essential coffees or juices to accompany a delicious salad or sandwich.
The venue gets a thumbs up for not trying too hard for
flashiness, relying simply on a classic but contemporary
library-like setting where you can gather with friends for
a chat or simply pull something off the shelf and settle
down to read.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 44 74. Open 12:00 - 11:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW
PMI Bar
The eminent PMI bar occupies three floors in a beautiful historic building on the Moika. The bar is located
on the first floor, and features a menu of hand-crafted
cocktails, created by the city’s best bartenders. On the
second and third floors, you’ll find the restaurant zone
and enoteca. Celebrated Russian chef Ivan Berezutsky
has created a small specialty menu and the carefully put
together wine list boasts the best selections of light and
32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
fresh European wines. On the weekends, PMI bar invites
popular DJs to perform and stars all over the world are
known to stop by before and after their concerts. The
bar also often hosts tours of the most notable chefs from
around the world. But don’t let that intimidate you. At
PMI, a friendly and relaxing atmosphere is king.QD-2,
Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07
10, www.pmibar.com. Open 12:00 until last guest.
€€€. PAESW
Schastye na Nevskom
Schastye or “Happiness” is a cosy place in the centre
where you can eat well and take a break from the hustle
and bustle of everyday life. The chef is inspired by his
culinary excursions around the world (the most recent
one was to New York) and uses an interesting mix of ingredients to make his creations. The interior is warmed
by soft light and minty tones which create for a laid back
and casual atmosphere. The menu is filled with balanced
breakfasts which can be ordered at any time, soups,
creative main dishes, and a wide range of desserts and
sweets. Also at Mal. Morskaya ul. 24 and ul. Rubinshteina
15/17.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
328 85 55, www.schastye.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€.
PTAGSW
Stroganoff Steakhouse
If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse,
perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure
to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers
lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing
compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main
attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on
the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak
event.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www.stroganoffsteakhouse.
ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAUVEG�
SW
Zig Zag
Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to
grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre of the city,
this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It’s
not exactly easy to find, but once you’re there you can’t
help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space
feels like you’ve travelled in a time machine back to the
1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with
such cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents
as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled
beet-root and other vegetables, off of which they produce themselves. All these things are well prepared and
presented and the menu also includes burgers and finger
foods, such as devilled eggs and fried green beans, which
are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their bar
also offers interesting cocktails and irresistible desserts,
which are definitely worth trying.QD-3, Gorokhovaya
ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00, www.
zigzag.spb.ru/english/index.php. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
€€. PTAULEGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
Italian
Borsalino
For years Borsalino’s Italian head chef has made this restaurant a destination for tourists and residents alike. Their
menu features simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared
and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavours from
regions all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service and a regularly changing seasonal menu
would be more than enough to satisfy even without the
amazing views of St. Isaac’s square. Their buffet business
lunch is also a bargain, as is their breakfast menu.QD-3,
Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com.
Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULEGSW
Francesco
At Francesco you’ll be greeted by tasteful design, courteous staff and great looking dishes made with the freshest ingredients. We were particularly impressed with the
wine menu, which is about as thick as a phone book, and
the huge leafy salads. The whole place looks and feels like
a middle-class Tuscan home, complete with plants, bird
cages, wine bottles, cupboards filled with crockery and
tables bursting with happy families enjoying classic Italian trattoria food.QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 47, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 05 52, www.restoran-francesco.
ru. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€€.
PTALVESW
True Indian cooking
and hospitality
since 1994
20
years
10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886
www.tandoor-spb.ru
Gusto
Gusto is a hip little place where local businessmen and
gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian
food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem
to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef
without a word being spoken to the waiters. Expect that
kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks
basic but all the dishes are complex, mouth-watering masterpieces that benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes.
QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALEGSW
Italy
The chef at this restaurant spent many years in Italy learning
the secrets of Italian cooking – and his experience is felt in
every dish. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual
diner, a process you can observe with your very own eyes,
courtesy of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes like pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well
done stir-fries as well as grilled fish and meat. Wash it all
down with their sublime home-style lemonade. Downstairs
is the Dolci Italy bakery where, if you’ve made the mistake
of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top off a
meal, you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot
coffee or tea.QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAULGSW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
33
Where to eat
russian cuisine
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and
other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what
that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually
finds its way into everything.
Bliny and snacks
Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all
manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham
(vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such
as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka).
Soups and salads
Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian
soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch.
Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is
another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup
Solyanka.
Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them
and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic
Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas
and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam
ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or
crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as
‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and
beetroot.
Main dishes
Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and
served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but
stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed,
while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and
eaten with the hands.
Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the
world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with
minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki
are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice
and meat and usually served with a sauce.
34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Jamie’s Italian
Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should except
the usual high standards of cuisine and service: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and
his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian
flour and farm eggs and is prepared right before your eyes,
while the rustic bread is made according to original recipes
and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian, and
almost every wine is available by the glass. Lovers of a festive
Italian atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place
has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors, a large team
of servers, and cooks hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2,
Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70,
www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVGSW
Marcelli’s
Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with
a simple style that reflects the usual images of Italy – jars
of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese
case there – although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners
that really make the atmosphere authentic. The pareddown menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic
and the delicious sauces are infused to the bursting point
with tomato, chili and basil. Featuring an open kitchen,
Marcelli’s offers diners yet another great opportunity to
eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at
Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro
Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44,
www.marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAGSW
Palermo
Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stone’s throw from Nevsky pr.
and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Italian
style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The
soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background,
putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping
with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu
with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean meat. Business
lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50,
MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermospb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGSW
Probka
Probka is known for its large, open kitchen, designed so that
diners can see how their food is being prepared from any location in the restaurant. The restaurant offers a traditional Italian menu and a carefully chosen wine list with over 100 wines
from around the world. The building also houses the Probka
Café, with its own kitchen and a separate entrance directly
onto the street. The café offers prices significantly lower than
those at the restaurant and in addition Italian cuisine it also
has some sound Russian favourites.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova
6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 911 922 77 27, www.probka.
org. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAEGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat,
drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit
jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground
music scene.
Artsy and Underground
Borodabar
This hole-in-the-wall sized bar is a happy addition to St.
Petersburg’s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite
its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still
packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The
homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele
with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti
by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture.
Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are often very good.
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923
89 40, www.borodabar.ru. Open 17:00 until last guest.
ESW
Cafe Stirka
A small, alternative and unique hang-out; Stirka has a good
sound system, old sofa’s and small bar serving cold and
hot drinks and snacks. Water-smoking pipes available. You
can wash your clothes in the back room laundry machines
and sup a beer while you watch them spin - all in a smokefree environment. Terrace seating for the those who need
a puff or just want to hang out in the (semi-)fresh air. Laundry services available.QC-2, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PEW
Bars and Pubs
Birzha Bar
Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was originally
intended to be St. Petersburg’s centre. Today the island is one
of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and the Birzha Bar is
located on the spit of the island in the old St. Petersburg Stock
Exchange. The bar holds wild dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attracts Russian and foreign musicians
to jazz up your night.QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW
Cafe-Bar Produkty
Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those
quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the
Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both
design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty
rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that
even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles,
look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro
favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while
for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or
bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you
have to ring the door bell to get in.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Open
14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00.
PAEW
Chroniki
Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to
merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian bar
and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Sovietera watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cosy,
simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar gives you a great view
of the classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The
preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad
ryumochnaya, hard alcohol. The numerous types of vodka
include Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations.QE-2,
Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31
61. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
35
Nightlife
Cuba Libre
Upon entering this bar, it’s immediately obvious that
the theme goes well beyond just the name. The bar is
adorned with Cuban flags, and the remarkable jumble of
spirits behind the bar includes many delicious varieties
of rum. More than sufficient seating makes Cuba Libre
a good choice for an umplanned bite to eat. The classic burgers and platters to share will go down a treat,
but it’s really at night when the place comes alive. The
heaps of fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail, and indeed the menu is so long you might
not let yourself leave until you’ve sampled a good few.
QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 983 55 26, www.barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. €€.
PAESW
Dead Poets
This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want
a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at
the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the
evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or
backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of
whiskey is impressive and accompanied by a delicious
range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music
and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo
12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.
dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00.
€€. PAW
nightlife - keeping safe
A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be
missed. However, to keep it fun and safe, there are a few
things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks.
Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink
next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in
it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any
documents you have with you – getting a new passport
really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet
as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you
can look after each other, and makes you a harder target.
Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being
kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it
might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful
whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking
up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/
guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep
your wits about you.
36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Helsinki Bar
This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of
the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you are Finnish and your
parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew
liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage
Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester
style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the
menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There
are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer
meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild
rice.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW
Library Bar
The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed
pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed
‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully prepared food. The
library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might
be more of a place to catch some football on the many
screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to
relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky
pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www.
library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW
Liverpool
If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub
with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves
great food in large portions, has screens for sport events
and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk
from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play
pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing
along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW
Terminal Bar
Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length
of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the
weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately
without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s ‘Taxi Driver’, the space
is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar
stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here
for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11,
MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Clubs
Cocktail bars
Avrora
Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions. The complex features a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts
and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which
hosts smaller concerts and other events. The programme
features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of
the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River
and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2,
MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru.
Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW
Bar 812
Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly
fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful
people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie
Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at
the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul.
Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81
29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW
Dom Byta
The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when
this bar was named after the type of storefronts that
offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished
gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice
touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the
DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle
electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for
the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul.
12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.
dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 07:00. PTAESW
Mishka
Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking
husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with
pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized
glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their
feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Purga
There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river.
Purga-I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with
midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and
dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab.
reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23,
www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW
Daiquiri Bar
Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover
the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and
the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails
professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly
good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced
cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the
weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14,
www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00.
PASW
Graf-in
The English meaning of grafin is “carafe”, which is fitting
since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy
interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is
clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd.
Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little
uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers
a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks
as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry
Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual
Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass
and steaks. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but on the
weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com.
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW
Tsvetochki
A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated
around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively
drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor
is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with
the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki
attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night
in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07
54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW
Tyomnoe – Dark
Svetloe – Light (for beer)
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
37
What to see
St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of
the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s
greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet
times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount
of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly
beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
The Essentials
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery,
where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky,
Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in
the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as
you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Church of the Saviour on the Spilt
Blood
This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion
domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of
St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and
memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because
it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because
the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall
featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in
the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Kazan Cathedral
This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is
one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811
to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The
dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky
has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t
like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00
Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum
of Anthropology and Ethnography)
St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by
Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the
Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has
anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix
of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection,
with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still
draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.
ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the
month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Peter and Paul Fortress
The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburg’s
first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along
with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular riverside views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the
city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva
Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress
itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and
Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and
good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing
Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the
Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a
dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open
08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral
open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free.
All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
Russian Museum
A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the
cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is
housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of
beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace
is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium.
It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding
collection of icons from ancient Rus’. The Benois Wing has
an especially strong display of work from the turn of the
twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which
host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral
Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s
largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned
with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858
the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who
was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear
day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32,
www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of
the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade
are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close
one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy
an extra photography ticket if you would like
to take photos or videos
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
modern art centres
If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided
for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries,
including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses
on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State
Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography
(ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the
Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art,
which is the biggest non-governmental contemporary
museum in Russia, and houses around 2000 works.
Anna Nova Art Gallery
QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7
(812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.
Erarta
QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.
Marina Gisich Gallery
QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.
Novy musey
QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.
S.P.A.S Gallery
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru.
ROSPHOTO
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.
CITY CARD
Get the most out of your
trip to St. Petersburg with
the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card
gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around
the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40
museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof.
It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city
with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to
get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available
in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More
information at www.petersburgcard.com.
February - March 2015
39
What to see
Saints of Petersburg
Churches
Russian orthodoxy has always been closely associated
with pilgrimages and the worshiping of icons and holy
relics. Across Russia there are hundreds of sites where
the faithful come hoping for miracles and religious solitude. St. Petersburg of course is also no stranger to the
phenomenon and hosts its own number of pilgrimage
sites dedicated to locally interred saints.
St. Ksenia
Deep inside the Smolensky cemetery on Vasilevsky ostrov you will
find a tiny green church
built over the grave of the
city’s most revered Saint
Ksenia. Widowed at the
age of 27, Ksenia gave up
all worldly possessions to
spend her life in prayer as a pauper. She was believed
to be clairvoyant and soon became famous in the city
for her predictions and miraculous and selfless actions.
When she died in 1803 and was buried in the Smolensky cemetery, every year her grave had to be replaced
as pilgrims would come and take the earth away from
it, believing it to have healing properties. Eventually the
locals decided to build a small church over the grave for
her and ever since the faithful have come here in the
thousands seeking Ksenia’s help. Be warned the church
is very small and popular so it can be a bit of an ordeal
for those who suffer from claustrophobia. St. Ksenia’s
feast day is February 06. QChurch of St. Ksenia, B-2,
Smolensky cemetery, MPrimorskaya.
St. John of Krohnstadt
Also known as the Wonder-Working Father John
Sergiev of Krohnstadt,
St. John was canonised
officially by the Russian
Orthodox Church in 1990,
some 80 years after his
death. Until he was canonised he was already venerated by the many faithful who remembered him as a
man of miracles and incredible kindness. He dedicated
his life to charitable works and to teaching the local
children of the impoverished and squalid Kronstadt
island in the mid and late 19th Century, where he
worked as a local priest. After he died he was buried in
the Convent of St. John in the centre of St. Petersburg
and even throughout Soviet times, faithful pilgrims
came to leave flowers at the crypt where he is interred.
St.John’s feast days are celebrated on December 20
and October 19. QIoannovsky Convent, C-1, nab.
reky Karpovky 45, MPetrogradskaya.
40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and
monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course
there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian
Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest
domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and
it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic
views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on
the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates
Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue
domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings
give wonderful glimpses into Russia’s past.
Armenian church
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 40/42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
99 90, www.armenian-church.org. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Admission free.
Chesma Church
QUl. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373
61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily
services 10:00 and 18:00 (except Mon). Admission free.
Sampsonievsky Cathedral
QE-1, Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. 41, MVyborgskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 294 57 51, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 19:00. Admission free.
Smolny Cathedral
QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl,
concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.
St. Andrew’s Cathedral
QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya 11, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 323 34 18, www.hramsp.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Daily services 10:00 and 17:00.
St. Nicholas Cathedral
QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30.
Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.
Troitsky Cathedral
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open
08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.
Vladimirsky Cathedral
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Museums
St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something
for everyone!
Artillery Museum
QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232
02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission
50 - 300Rbl.
Museum of the St. Petersburg
Avant-garde (Matyushin house)
QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission
60 - 100Rbl.
Museum of Political History of Russia
QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.),
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and
last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
314 98 83, www.yusupovpalace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should
be booked in advance by
phone (+7) 812 314 88 93.
Excursions 150 - 500Rbl.
Audioguide 500Rbl.
Lyrical City
With so many wonderful writers and poets who were
born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave
the city without visiting one of the museums honouring
them.
F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial
Museum
QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should
be booked in advance by phone.
Memorial flat of Alexander Blok
QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713
86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl.
Nabokov Museum
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Pushkin Apartment Museum
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40
- 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Russian Vodka Museum
Vodka Museum
This small museum
presents the long history of Russia’s national
drink, from 12th Century peasants through
to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full
of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain
the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official
excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to
try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian
snacks.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.
su. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.
Egypt on the Neva
Like most European
Empires, the tsarist Russian empire was in love
with monumental and
exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous
sphinxes in St. Petersburg are the city’s only
original pair. Situated
on
Universitetskaya
nab. 7 (C-3, MVasileovstrovskaya) you’ll find two, 32 ton beasts carved
from Aswan granite, which were brought here from
Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes
(1417 – 1379 BC) who was ‘The builder of monuments
rising to the sky’.
Further down the Neva
on Nab. Robespyera
(E-2, MChernyshevskaya) you’ll find ‘Russia’s dark prince of the
underground’ (formally
known as Mikhail Shemyakin) monuments to
the politically repressed.
Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where
for centuries Russian political prisoners were held,
these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and
half emaciated ghoulish monsters.
February - March 2015
41
What to see
Opening Times
and Tickets
Oranienbaum
QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org.
Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces
250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl.
Pavlovsk
QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.
ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to
park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl.
Peterhof
QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.
ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30
- 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue
of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl
and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl.
Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06.
Pushkin
QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine
Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open
12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00
and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the
month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl.
Strelna
QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.
ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you
visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an
official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl.
42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg‘s
Historical Outskirts
Russia’s winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better
weekend escape than spending some time at one of the
many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great
opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds
of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The
snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your
feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the upcoming year. If you are tired of being
cooped up at your apartment or in the office, then head
out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow
castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow
fight. Dress warmly and have fun in the snow!
Konstantinovsky Palace (strelna)
Once known as Putin’s Palace, this palace is now one of the
official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the
Palace’s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the
public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace
are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a
display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts
from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of
fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you
enter (this is also an official government building).
Peterhof Palace and Park
Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It
is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October,
when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is
well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great
Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that
followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding
another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal
point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from
there the park spreads out to the left and right along the
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
What to see
coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble
sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums
worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage
Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house
where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his
closest (and rowdiest) friends.
Oranienbaum
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among
tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a
lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of
Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate
and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of
her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with
baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand
Palace hasn’t changed a great deal over the centuries and
it’s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that
wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as
Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe
near the administration building, the only place in the park
where you can buy food or drinks.
Pavlovsk
Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to
describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like
a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall
trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with
classical statues and flanked by benches make for many
a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a
place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an
afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its
magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The
country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful
architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand
as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great
place to get away from it all.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Getting There
Pushkin – Pavlovsk
Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of
St. Petersburg.
By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station:
for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or
take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.
From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186,
for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.
By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train
station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo.
From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min)
or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.
For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to
Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or
marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from
Kupchino metro/train station.
Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg
on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west
of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres
east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg
proper and Peterhof ).
By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take
marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a.
You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky
train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka
404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka
343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka
103(K224).
By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy
Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe,
Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof,
take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver
that you want to exit next to the fountains.
For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.
Pushkin
Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of
St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe
Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following
the communist revolution in honour of one of its other
well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In
2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are
sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park
filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine’s Palace
to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent
their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks
and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander
Pushkin studied.
February - March 2015
43
Hermitage
The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the
Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s
certainly not number two”. With over three million works of
art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along
the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress.
250 years
In December 2014 the world-acclaimed museum celebrated
its 250th anniversary. The museum’s central building, the socalled Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter
residence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolommeo Francesco Rastrelli’s magnificent baroque-style design
was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight years
later, at the end of Elizabeth’s reign. In the fall of 1763, Empress
Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new mistress of
the palace and commissioned new architects and designers
to transform the palace to suit her preference for neoclassical
style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become the incredible
museum it is today. During her 34-year reign, the Empress
commissioned the construction of the Large and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only that, but she also
personally purchased the art collections that form the basis of
the Hermitage’s collection today.
The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotzkowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museum’s
official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an
agent of Prussia’s King Frederick II. Originally, he put together the magnificent collection of old masters under Frederick II’s commission. However, when the King was unable to
finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers
and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer.
250 years after Catherine’s provident purchase,
which includes over 250 works by Flemish and
Dutch masters, the museum has expanded its
collection into one of the largest in the world.
44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
The museum today
Visiting the Hermitage should definitely be on the top of
your must-do list in St. Petersburg. However, the museum
houses so many works, that it is impossible to see everything in one visit. In fact, it’s said that if you were to spend
just one minute looking at every piece in the museum, you
would need a total of 11 years of non-stop looking to see
them all!
That being said, it’s best to enter armed with a museum
map that will help you strategize and design your personal
excursion in the vast space. Also remember to give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the
crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an
absolute minimum amount of time to spend there if you
want to see the main state rooms and some of the most
popular artworks.
The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest
European movements. Lovers of the renaissance should
head to the Italian rooms, where the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels are housed . The
Rembrandt room is another must-see, as are the nearby
El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh,
Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top
floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental
and Middle Eastern art.
The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient
Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from
the near and central east. There are also a number of cafes
and shops on the ground floor, just to the right of the main
staircase after the entrance to the museum, where you can
take a break and re-energize.
The largest number of opulent state rooms, such as the
throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock
room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries and
parlours, are largely located on the first floor (which in
Russia is the 2nd floor) of the Winter Palace and lead off
in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you
enter the museum, just after the ticket offices).
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Hermitage
A treasure trove
Icons at the Hermitage
Though the State Hermitage Museum is known primarily
for its art collection, the museum also houses a treasure
trove of gold masterpieces, dating back to early antiquity, and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box.
The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back
to the eighth century B.C.. The collection traces the rise
and fall of early Eurasian peoples, as they lived and passed
through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai
and Siberia.
The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a
nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from
Central Asia. Their art includes belt clasps depicting fighting animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded
with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast. Depictions of these warlike people, who inhabited a broad area
of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory, are found
in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths. Descriptions of the
Scythians also survive today in the works of Greek historian
Herodotus.
The Scythians were replaced by later tribes who moved
into the region, including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians
and Khazars. Each tribe has left their archaeological traces
behind. One of the more exciting traces on display is the
gold work of the Hunns, whose existence entered popular folklore during the time of the Great Migrations (fifth
century A.D), when their leader Attila invaded the Roman
Empire.
While the works in the gold rooms are fascinating both
for their historical interest and the skill of their execution, the Diamond room works are also an impressive
display of opulence, wealth, and skill. The rooms include
a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars, including twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls,
which were a diplomatic gift from Shah Nadir of Persia to
the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for
fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a
miniature table. Also on display is a remarkable ring, used
to draw the string of a gold bow, with a large diamond,
emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan, who
built the Taj Mahal.
The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry,
including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver
scabbards and decorated with precious stones.
A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant
incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald, complemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish
craftsmen in the late 16th century.
The jewellery collection concludes with items produced by
St. Petersburg’s leading jewellers. St. Petersburg attracted
craftsmen from all over Europe and at one time boasted
such masters as Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Bouddé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Théremin brothers. The Imperial court and Russian aristocracy
commissioned the crafting of refined luxury items, such as
watches, clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes,
the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century.
The museum’s collection of ancient Russian icons allows
viewers to take a closer look at examples of paintings from
antiquity and to deeply immerse themselves in the atmosphere of past centuries. The exhibition presents works from
various schools of iconography, each of which displays its
own unique characteristics.
The art of monumental painting from Great Novogorod is
on display in the 14th century icon collection “Saint Nikolai”.
The collection is notable for its two large-scale icons, “The
Last Judgment” and “The Life of Nikolai”. It also features two
double-sided icon-tablets, created at the turn of the 16th
century, impressing for their artistic value as well as the
high quality of their preservation.
Among the icons from Pskov, the icon “The Epiphany” (early
14th c.) deserves the most attention. In this great work, the
salient features that make the Pskov school unique are easily visible. Besides this work, the collection also stands out
for its display of the two-sided icon that unites the images
of the “Savior” and “Our Lady” icons (early 14th c.).
The icons created by the Moscow masters constitute a substantial part of the exhibition. Among them, the works of
various types of iconography are on display, including examples of celebratory, Christ and prophetic iconographies.
Also on display are the remarkable blue-backgrounded
icons “The Transfiguration” and “The Birth of Christ”, both
created in 16th century.
The collection also includes icons from the “Northern Letters“, which were created in the northern territories. These
icons were painted by an array of authors, including members of the secular and clerical clergy, trades people and
peasants, and are notable for their incredible display of
craftsmanship. The earliest icons included in this collection are the works with depictions of Christ, the Apostle
Peter, St. Ilya and St. Nikolai, which were produced in the
northern regions of the Novgorod lands in the 13th-14th
centuries.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79,
www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl.
Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket
offices inside the museum and via special terminals
at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
45
Features
hidden museums
It is no secret that St. Petersburg is one of the richest cities
in the world in terms of culture. Millions of tourists flock
from all over the world to Russia’s beating cultural heart
each year, seeking the most treasured historical venues the
city has to offer. The Kunstkamera Museum, the Russian
Museum and of course the State Hermitage are compulsory attractions for almost every tourist, something which
is noticeable especially during the high season. Standing
outside the Hermitage, having barely escaped the massive
crowds marching through its halls, one can only wonder
if there might be an easier way of enjoying what Piter has
to offer. Well, yes there is, and to make sure you can enjoy
as much of St. Petersburg as possible, we have sacrificed
some shoe leather in a quest for some of the lesser known
museums of the city. These relatively unknown gems are
often overshadowed by their bigger brothers, but now the
time has come for them to enter the limelight and steal the
show! We have found a whole range of museums where
you can wander round in peace, far from the madding
crowd – all of the Piter, none of the stress!
Fabergé Museum
As sure as eggs is eggs, the masterpieces created by the
House of Fabergé are inextricably linked to St. Petersburg’s
imperial past, so it is perhaps surprising that until recently
there was no museum in the city specifically devoted to
them. In 2013 all that changed, and now one of the world’s
finest collections is on display in the magnificently restored
Shuvalov Palace, just a couple of minutes’ walk from Nevsky
Prospekt. Pride of place goes, naturally, to nine Easter Eggs
crafted for the last two Russian tsars, but the collection
includes over 4,000 other items of all shapes, sizes and
materials, some created by Fabergé’s contemporaries who,
while they may have lacked his flair for PR, were certainly
masters in their own right. Notwithstanding the intrinsic
and financial value of some of the pieces, they are not hidden away behind velvet ropes, in fact you can get right
up to the display cases, and we suspect that the cleaners
spend most evenings wiping nose-prints off the glass. The
entrance fee includes an excursion, indeed if you visit during the day you will have to join a tour, but don’t be put off
if you are an independent sort: the tales to be told by the
guides are informative and entertaining, and truly bring the
exhibits to life.
46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Arctic and Antarctic Museum
Dress up warm and dust off
your snow boots, you’re going on an expedition! The
Russian State Arctic and
Antarctica museum was
founded in 1930 as part
of the Soviet Arctic and
Antarctica Institute. Situated in Avraam Melnikov’s
Church, it is currently the
largest museum dedicated
to polar exploration in the world. The first floor of the museum will guide you through various exhibitions related to
the icy landscapes of Antarctica. Various scale models of
famous Russian atomic ice breakers decorate the rooms,
accompanied by official documents, pieces of machinery
and emblems. Full-sized replicas of Russian tents, hovels
and equipment show how it is possible for researchers to
survive under such harsh conditions. The museum also
showcases some of the most impressive mounted animals you will ever see, giving you the opportunity to stare
a polar bear straight in the eye with impunity. Along the
somewhat hidden staircases to the second floor you will
find various photos of animals in their natural habitats. The
second floor itself is dedicated to the history and present
state of Inuit culture. Be sure to visit the central room on the
second floor, where you can find various types of equipment from different countries and a map that displays all
the research bases spread across the frigid wastes.
Coffee Museum
Nearly everyone drinks
coffee these days, in fact
some of us are barely able
to function without their
steaming cup of caffeinelaced happiness of a morning. But what do we, the
common folk, actually
know about coffee, other
than that it gives us the
will to carry on? Not all that
much when you come to think of it, so a trip to the coffee
museum is mandatory for both coffee lovers and people
who simply like a fun experience. You can only enter the
museum by joining a tour, so it is possible you cannot enter
immediately after buying your ticket. Luckily, your ticket
provides you with a fifty percent discount on all products
in the café above the museum, making the wait that much
easier. The museum guides speak pretty good English, so
you should have no trouble understanding everything that
is being said. During the tour you will learn about the history of coffee, different types of beans and various ways
of processing, turning you into a true coffee connoisseur.
At the end of the tour you are, naturally, given the opportunity to buy various types of coffee. We recommend the
museum’s very own blend, which can only be bought and
tasted here!
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Features
GrandMaket Russia
Trying to fit the Russian
Federation into one room
is madness, surely? The
creators of Grand Maket
Russia thought so too, so
they used two rooms instead. Covering 800-odd
square metres, this grand
layout of Russia is the second largest of its kind in
the world. Over four hundred artists, modellers and
computer scientists helped create this all-encompassing,
yet surprisingly detailed representation of Russia. To take
in all that the museum has to offer will probably take until
nightfall, no matter what time of the day you visit. This is
because of a nifty day and night system integrated into
the exhibit: when the sun sets in the west, the eastern
part of Russia will gradually be bathed in the red light of
the morning sun. During the night sequences the entire
atmosphere of the rooms change: cars and trains turn
on their headlights, houses become illuminated and the
snowy regions of Russia seem to become even more
magical than before. An informative and most of all fun
experience for young and old alike. And don’t forget to try
some of the Russian cuisine in the restaurant downstairs
afterwards.
State Memorial Museum of Leningrad
Defence and Siege
One of the darkest periods in Russian history was
undoubtedly the siege of
Leningrad. A trip to the
State Memorial Museum
of Leningrad Defence and
Siege allows you to take
a peek into history, and to
gain a better understanding of just how desperate
the situation was in these
900 dark days. The displayed food rations, munitions and
propaganda posters may seem a bit morbid to those not
interested in war history, but they are all of significant historical value. The museum’s somewhat gloomy halls amplify the uneasy feeling you get when walking past a small
silver scale with bullets; bullets that have actually been
extracted from the body of a Russian soldier. Even though
most of the writings near the exhibits are in Russian, the
museum has translated some of the more important information to English as well. We still recommend an audio
guide to anyone who is unable to read Russian though,
since it will definitely add value to your visit. Also keep in
mind that the museum is still clinging on to the old ‘tourist
prices’, so do not be surprised when you must pay a little bit
more than Russians do.
Vodokanal Museum
Bread Museum
St. Petersburg’s Vodokanal
complex comprises several buildings that are all
connected by one of our
planet’s most important
elements: water. After all,
with more than half of our
planet is covered in water, its significance in our
lives is no surprise. How
mankind has managed to
harness and control this
element is a whole different story though. The main exhibition is situated in an old water tower in the centre of the
complex. Scale models of prominent historical waterworks
are the highlights of the first floor, ranging from the hanging gardens of Babylon to ancient Greece. Scaling the various floors of the tower will give you new insights regarding
the development of sewerage systems, if you like that kind
of thing. The museum also manages to take the term ‘toilet humour’ to a new level by showcasing various types of
toilet bowls. It should be noted that the water tower also
served the people of St. Petersburg during times of war, so
the historical value of the building alone could be a reason
to, erm, pay it a visit. Be sure to ask the cashier for some
English information, as the exhibits themselves are mostly
explained in Russian. The other two buildings of the complex offer a range of multimedia tours, although sadly these
are only available in Russian.
A museum dedicated to
bread sounds rather unusual, and in some ways it
is. The bread museum in St.
Petersburg is the only one
of its kind in Russia and one
of just thirteen in the world.
This unique museum
showcases the importance
of bread throughout history, something that many
people have nowadays forgotten. Bread was not simply a snack: it was in many ways a
symbol of harmony between humans and nature. In Russia
particularly, bread was considered as something valuable,
if not a necessity of life. Rituals practised in old Russia often
included bread and it was heralded as a sign of hospitality. The museum focuses on the role of bread in St. Petersburg, showing a wide range of baked products commonly
prepared by bakers and confectioners in the nineteenth
century. In more recent history, the importance of bread
is magnified in a small corner showing the rations during
the time of World War II and the siege of Leningrad. This
will certainly make you feel lucky the next time you sink
your teeth into a sandwich. The bread museum is relatively
small, so it is the perfect venue to visit if you have some
spare time and do not feel like loafing around. Be sure to
ask for English information at the cash register, since the
exhibition itself barely has any.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
47
Features
Krassin Icebreaker
Originally named the Svyatogor, the Krassin has certainly left a long history in
her wake. Built in Newcastle upon Tyne in England
and launched in 1916, the
icebreaker was the most
powerful vessel of its type
in the world right up to the
advent of the nuclear-powered era in the 1950s. The
Krassin was primarily deployed for pathfinding, exploration
and rescue missions, but also served as a warship during
World War II. At the end of hostilities, she was disarmed and
returned to peacetime duties, and crunched through her
last icefloe in 1998. Since then, the Krassin has bobbed contentedly at anchor on the banks of the Neva, insofar as anything that weighs 10,000 tonnes can be said to “bob”. The
museum does not allow single visitors, so you will need to
wait for one of the tours. These are conducted every fifteen
minutes, so waiting isn’t really an issue. We must warn you
that the Krassin is not as adapted to tourists as some other
museums in St. Petersburg: tours are only given in Russian,
and information in English is, for now, scarce. If you have
any friends or family who understand and speak Russian,
take them with you. In the worst case scenario you may not
understand anything your guide explains, but just being on
board is an unforgettable experience in itself.
Sigmund Freud’s Dream Museum
Close your eyes and wander off into a world of dreams. That
is what you are supposed to do when passing through the
door of the museum of Sigmund Freud’s dreams. Do not
keep them closed for too long though, or you might bump
into something. With his unorthodox theories about dreams
and neurology, Sigmund Freud is considered to be the father
of psychoanalysis. In Freud’s theories dreams were described
as wish-fulfilments, and they were linked to several aspects
and recurring themes. The museum sets out to create a
physical manifestation of Freud’s dreams and theories. In the
first of the two rooms you will find information about Freud
himself and drawings of the dreams he described. The second room is a long hallway with glass walls on each side and
a bright screen at the end. Behind the walls are many objects
which seem to have no relation to one another. Or do they?
It is up to you to find out. Using various methods it is possible to alter the objects and retrieve messages hidden within
them. The message that you retrieve from them, however,
depends on your own state of mind and vision.
Hygiene Museum
Sorry to be blunt, but do you wash yourself thoroughly every
day? If not, a visit to St. Petersburg’s Hygiene Museum will
remedy that for you. Put on your shoe covers, ascend the large
staircase and prepare to make a clean break. Explanations
about the origins of hygiene and the danger of exposure to
some types of animals may give the impression that the museum is an innocent showcase for kids, but don’t let yourself be
48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
misled, this is not the case. Although the museum is undobtedly very informative for children, there is a lot to be learned
for adults as well. The museum shifts its focus from hygiene to
health as you walk along its halls, and the smokers and drinkers among you may want to quit after seeing a pair of charred
lungs in a jar, or a liver bleached by the effects of alcohol.
The 16+ hall takes a turn for the worse, with unborn fetuses
preserved in jars. A nice addition to the museum is a display
featuring one of Pavlov’s original dogs. After your visit you may
well want to head home and rinse yourself properly, but you
will probably be too busy answering your kids’ questions about
reproduction. Still, it’s all good clean fun.
Arctic and Antarctic Museum
QE-3, Ul. Marata 24A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month.
Admission 70 - 230Rbl.
Krassin Icebreaker
QB-3, Nab. Leitenanta Shmidta 47 (23-ya liniya),
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 35 47, www.
krassin.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last
Wed of the month. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
Bread Museum
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 73, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764
11 10. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Mon and last Tue
of the month. Admission 100Rbl.
Coffee museum
QE-2, Voskresenskaya nab. 14, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 275 87 36, www.mcof.ru. Open 11:00 20:00. Admission 250Rbl. Show-tasting 600 - 700Rbl.
Fabergé Museum
QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 21, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 600 11 44, www.fabergemuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00 (excursions only), 18:00 - 20:45 (non-excursion).
Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl.
Sigmund Freud’s Dream Museum
QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 18A, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812
456 22 90, www.freud.ru. Open Tue, Sat, Sun 12:00 17:00. Admission 150Rbl.
Grandmaket Russia
QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7)
812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400 - 450Rbl. Audioguide 150Rbl +
500Rbl deposit.
Museum of Hygiene
QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 25, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
595 89 08, www.gcmp.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:30. Open
10:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Admission 80Rbl.
State Memorial Museum of Leningrad
Defence and Siege
QE-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 275 75 47, www.blokadamus.ru. Open 10:00 17:00, Wed 12:30 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Thu of the
month. Admission 300Rbl.
Vodokanal Museum
QF-2, Shpalernaya ul. 56, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 438 43 75, www.vodokanal-museum.ru. Open 10:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and Tue. Admission 50 - 200Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Pskov
One of Russia’s oldest, most historically significant, yet least
well known cities: welcome to Pskov!
Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border,
Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient
Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres.
The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year
903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old
Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus’, to
Olga of Pskov (c. 890 – 969). Prince Igor’s bride is still honoured in the Russian Orthodox Church.
In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Rus’s
largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of
the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial
value, Pskov was also one of the country’s most important
fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone
walls, unique in contemporary Europe.
Pskov’s wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair
deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third
of the city’s medieval history was spent at war, including battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One
of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle
on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky
(c. 1120 – 1263).
More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian
Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 – 1918) was stripped of his title
of emperor at the city’s train station. A plaque referring to
this historical moment can still be found there today.
Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years
ago, but that’s not to say that visiting the city and the wider
region would be a waste of your time – far from it. From
its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still encapsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russia’s
extraordinary history.
Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settlements surrounding the former fortress are just as interesting. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away
from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region.
If you’re willing to spend a little more time travelling, the
Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your
trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the
Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to
explore.
Hotel Rizhskaya
QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya.
ru. 265 rooms.
Old Estate Hotel & Spa
QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45,
www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms.
Oktyabrskaya Hotel
QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms.
Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva
QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms.
Hotel 903
QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www.
pskov903.ru. 15 rooms.
Hotel Golden Embankment
QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78
77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
Where to stay
No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your
wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists
as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand
and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov
does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation,
whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place
to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof
over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list
of the best hotels currently available in Pskov.
49
Pskov
Getting There
Two long-distance trains depart from St. Petersburg’s
Vitebsky Vokzal (metro Pushkinskaya) daily, also stopping in Pskov. Both trains depart at 19:40.
You can also take an elektrichka from Baltisky Vozkal
(metro Baltiskaya), which departs daily at 07:05.
Pskov has a small airport and its own airline, Pskovavia,
so if you do not wish to spend 4-5 hours inside a bus
or train, you can choose to fly to Pskov. Flights from St.
Petersburg Pulkovo Airport depart on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. A plane ticket will cost
you about 1200Rbl and the duration of the trip will be
approximately 1 hour.
Alternatively, you can easily get from St. Petersburg to
Pskov by bus. There are several dedicated companies
that will take you to Pskov within 4 hours and, to make
things even better, most offer free WiFi on board. When
traveling with one of these companies, be sure to reserve your tickets beforehand.
Autograf minibus
Daily schedule: 07:30, 09:00, 11:30, 14:00, 17:00, 18:30,
20:30. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets
550Rbl (kids under 12 years old 400Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911
397 22 55, www.auto-graf.ru.
Avtovizit minibus
Daily schedule: 05:00, 07:00, 09:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00,
19:00, 21:00. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets
500Rbl (kids under 7 years old free, from 7 years old
to twelve years old 350Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 888 01 40,
www.avtovizit.com.
Avtofavorit bus
Daily schedule: 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00,
18:00, 20:00, 22:00, 24:00 (additional trips Friday at
17:00, 19:00). Leaves from Hotel Park Inn (metro Moskovskaya).QTickets 550Rbl (kids up to 10 years 400Rbl).
www.napiter.ru.
Getting around
Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so
you should not have any trouble finding your way
around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive,
and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just
like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis
are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are
very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices
start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station
can be found at the same place in the south-eastern
part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to
the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to
the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr
cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32,
www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 – 18:00.
50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
What to see
Pskov city walls
The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can literally be found on the city’s streets. The five stone walls that
once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere
shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an interesting site to behold, especially the old towers which
give a clear image of just how strong this city once was.
It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin
of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed
with caution when walking directly beside a wall when
hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces
of stone can crumble down some of the weak points!
Pskov State Museum
The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings,
now united under one name. The central building of the
museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and
its region. Directly attached to the main building are the
famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman
who once resided here. In these chambers you will find
various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main
buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum
spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum
has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian blacksmith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection.
Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working
hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www.
museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon.
Monuments
The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of
public monuments. They can be found basically everywhere in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts.
Some of the most interesting monuments can be found
near the city centre, for example the monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s legendary and most
famous poet. Another monument of significance is the
monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the
creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments
is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill
(Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to
Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a
height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make
you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story!
Parks
Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk,
or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park
(Children’s Park) can be found near the centre of the city,
and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend
their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony
rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of
the city’s many churches inside this park. A little further
into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where
occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk
in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any
troubles.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Pskov
outside PSKOV
Old Izborsk
When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the
neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used
to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns
that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one
of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each
hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring
your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions
at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides
(either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a
cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov
central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route
no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and
Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.
Pechory
This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at
any point during its existence. The monastery currently
consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to
behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath
the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims
and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by
taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00,
13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the
station.
Pushkin Hills
Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The
entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated
around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe
19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover
some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia.
Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and
it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works.
Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills
are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to
find a guide who can help you get there and show you the
way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful
the hills are, you do not want to get lost.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Churches
It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov
and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than
40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the
oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while
some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those
interested in old Russian architecture and religion.
Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in
a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and
open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches
demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their
heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some
spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves
you having to ask at every church you enter.
Trinity Cathedral
Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of
Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the
Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most
tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of
Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when
you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the
city’s main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used
as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The
kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can
buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or
wooden spiked maces. To each his own!
Mirozhsky Monastery
As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived
in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monastery’s Christ Transfiguration
Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have
been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into
the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll
through its garden is already a good enough reason to
do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence
and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy
a moment of rest, and the site has been included on
the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks.
QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www.
mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free.
February - March 2015
51
Pskov
Where to eat
You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city
is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting
to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and
restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or
traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still
your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov
are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like
Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants
and cafes in Pskov especially for you!
Pozharka Tavern
The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked
meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden
doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper
and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous,
allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some
tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire,
but the true specialties come from the tavern’s very own
smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who
need it, but it hasn’t been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make
sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu
before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal.
QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €.
Dvor Podznoeva Halls
The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people
who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the
inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the
beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant,
waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb
welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic
and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on
the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade
kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you
get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of
charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00,
www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. €€.
Double Coffee
With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a
modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, café
and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one.
From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at
Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is
fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your
friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky
Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to
rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel.
(+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00 –
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 – 01:00. €.
52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Nightlife
Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a
city with many students, who need to unwind after a long
week of studying hard. What better way to do that than
to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs,
each with its own face and style. If you like to show your
moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places
where you can boogey down all night long. When local
Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most
likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only
know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to
converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and
are genuinely interested. Below you’ll find a few places
where you can party as much as you like.
TIR Club
Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that
truly has its own identity. The underground style of the
bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music
playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of
the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music
events, which are held near the stage in the back of the
club. During events you will have to pay admission to
enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have
a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54,
www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun
16:00 until last guest. €.
Super
Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a
complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is
possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep
in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play
snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in
Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing
events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www.
superpskov.ru.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay
Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month,
you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows you to
get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels
ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels
filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are
located and what market they cater to. The traveller looking
to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located
hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind
after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.
5 Stars
Angleterre Hotel
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
belmond Grand Hotel Europe
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms.
Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg
QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.
183 rooms.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Golden Garden boutique Hotel
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms.
Hotel Astoria
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.
197 rooms.
Radisson Royal Hotel
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164
rooms.
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.
Taleon Imperial Hotel
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.
W St. Petersburg
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.
U menya zabronirovan nomer –
I have a reservation
February - March 2015
53
Where to stay
Ask the Concierge
Interview with Maria
Semenova, concierge
at the Belmond Grand
Hotel Europe.
Please tell us something about yourself.
My name is Maria Semenova. I was born in
Kurgan, a provincial city
in Siberia, and when I
was 17 I decided to return to my roots in St. Petersburg. My grandmother was
born here, and she was such an inspiration for me that
I ended up falling in love with St. Petersburg at a very
early age. From the very first day I arrived until now I
cannot stop marvelling at this place, so my work here
as a concierge is not so much a career choice, more a
fulfilment of destiny!
Can you tell us something about the Grand Hotel
Europe? What makes it special? What do you like
best about your work here? I have been working as
concierge here for almost 7 years, so I can honestly
say that the Grand Hotel Europe is my second home,
my Alma Mater. I meet so many interesting people
here, learn new things about everything – about my
work, about life, about people in general. The Grand
Hotel Europe is the oldest 5-star hotel in Russia with
a rich and varied history, and it is so great to be the
part of it.
What can you tell us about your favourite places
in St. Petersburg? Oh, there are so many places I
like in St. Petersburg! But most of all I like to spend
my free evenings at the theatre, whether it be to
see a play, an opera or a ballet. This season I plan
to see the Great Gatsby ballet at the Mariinsky, starring my favourite ballet dancer Denis Matvienko,
Shakespeare’s Love’s Labour’s Lost at the Maly Dramatichesky theatre, then there are the premieres
of the Barber of Seville at the Mikhailovsky, and
Chernyshevsky’s What is to be Done? at the Bolshoi
Dramatichesky. So much to see!
What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recommend to our readers? What is a must-visit in St.
Petersburg during the winter? In the winter when
everything is covered with a blanket of snow, the most
beautiful places are really to be found outside the city
– gorgeous suburbs like Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Alexandria
and Gatchina. You can stroll along the snow-covered
paths or take a ride in a horse-drawn troika. Entrance
to parks in winter is free, and afterwards you can visit
the palaces without having to queue for hours like you
do in the summer.
54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
4 Stars
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via
Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50
00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms.
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Vasilievsky
QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru.
214 rooms.
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport
the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport
terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms.
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.
Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota
metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel.
(+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms.
Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo
QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms.
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73
10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms.
Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya
and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms.
Radisson Sonya Hotel
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg.
173 rooms .
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky
QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms.
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden
QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut,
tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.
3 Stars
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
Herzen House
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
Gifts and Souvenirs
Chocolate Museum
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
La Petite Opera Gallery
QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox.
net. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Lomonosov Porcelain Factory
QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
Nevsky Souvenir Shop
QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya
ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.
nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Pavloposadskie Platki Shop
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963
329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Souvenirs Fair
QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A
Galeria
The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and
a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station,
Galeria cannot be missed. The huge and beautiful building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you
would expect from your modern shopping mall and
more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St.
Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis,
Mexx and French Connection to more local Russian designer brands as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some
very good restaurants. When with children, head to
the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area
for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr.
30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.
galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK
Bookshops
Bukvoed
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06
01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW
Dom Knigy
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23
55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK
DLT Department store
Shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54
08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral­
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open
10:00 - 22:00. AKW
GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK
Nevsky Centre
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52
57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00. AK
Eliseevsky Store
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66
66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Built in 1909 the building's façade mixes modernist
and art nouveau influences, popular at the turn of
century. Inside, however, the influences are much
more cutting-edge. Five floors of designer shopping promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies
from the likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander
Wang, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and many more. On the
top floor there is a restaurant for fashionistas who
need to take a break and for the discerning VIP
shopper personal stylist services are also available.
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW
February - March 2015
55
Shopping
Russian Souvenirs
For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country,
whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting
something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and
interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and
friends to colleagues and clients. And we’re not just talking
about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are
certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take
some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home
with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following:
Platok
A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and
beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These
patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be
worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a
winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves
around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer
over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka
look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which
is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray
and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely
warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and
silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as
a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a
coat.
56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home,
then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear
flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on
it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points.
Most of the things you can get in markets are made from
fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur
hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur
shops all over the city.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are
very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want
to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they
don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are
said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear
them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks
is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your
skin as you walk.
Anything pickled
Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread
almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade
pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers,
tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot
of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great
substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Expat & Lifestyle
Expat Contacts
Dutch Club St. Petersburg
Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com.
English Communication Club
Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru.
International Women’s Club
Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held
once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are
organised daily.
internations
Qwww.internations.org.
Cultural Centres
British Book Centre
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova),
MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britaniaspb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun.
Danish Cultural Institute
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik
QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00.
Finnish Institute
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign Literature Library
QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00,
closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00,
closed Sun.
Goethe Institute
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15
- 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed
Sun.
Institut Francais
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Istituto Italiano di Cultura
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00
- 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Japan Center
QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands Institute
QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.Closed Sat, Sun.
THANN Sanctuary Spa
Founded in 2002 in Thailand, and now operating in over
25 countries worldwide, THANN Natural Beauty produces
a range of unique skincare products using natural ingredients, formulated from botanicals derived combining
the art of natural therapy with modern dermatological
science. The core ingredient in THANN’s wide range of
products is the Vitamin E-rich extracts of rice bran oil. The
THANN Sanctuary Spa, opened in St. Petersburg in 2010,
encapsulates the company’s holistic approach, helping
you to re-discover your inner physical and mental wellness. The warm grey colour scheme, soothing light and
specially designed furniture aim to induce calm and
tranquility in contract to the hectic city outside. A highlight among the wide range of treatments is the THANN
Sanctuary Signature Massage - a deep tissue oil massage,
using palm strokes and thumb pressure to relieve and
heal muscular pains. QE-3, Nevsky Centre, Nevsky pr.
114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 449 08 36, www.
thann-spa.ru. A
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
HEALTH AND beauty
Royal Thai
Royal Thai is perfectly located as a relaxing retreat right
in the city centre. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddha statues and dim lighting greet you as you enter and
set the tone for a calming and rejuvenating experience.
Treatments from expert Thai masseurs are available
from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and
scrubs and foot massages, and as well as an assortiment of traditional Thai treatments like herbal and aroma therapy massages to choose from. The focus here is
on mind, body and spirit. After one session here you’ll
feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe.
Royal Thai has numerous other locations including one
on the 6th floor of the Nevsky Centre at Nevsky pr. 114116 (tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29). Gift certificates available.
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 315 54 06, www.royalthai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. A
57
Expat & Lifestyle
The Expat Experience
On February 19th, the Russian Hospitality Awards
ceremony takes place at
Moscow’s Lotte Hotel, with
a total of 20 awards up for
grabs in categories ranging
from Best Eco Hotel to Best
Hotel Restaurant. We got
jury member David Jenkins,
Executive Vice President
Russia/CIS of JLL’s Hotels
and Hospitality group, to spare us a few minutes and
share his thoughts on the hospitality sector in St. Petersburg and Russia as a whole.
David, you’ve been involved in the hotel market in
Russia since the mid-90s. If you had to pick 3 standout tendencies over that period, what would they
be? That’s a good question, I would better say in terms
of stand-out tendencies, for me, in the hotel market in
Russia it could be:
• The development of Sochi. I had first visited Sochi 8 or 9
years ago and saw simply a place that was run down but
brimming with potential. What has been achieved there
is amazing – despite the well documented oversupply
and various other commercial issues – it has been a fantastic social project;
What more do you think could be done to reduce
the notorious impact of seasonality in St. Petersburg, apart from changing the city’s latitude, obviously? Domestic tourism is the key and we have started
to see this increase in 2014 as many locals decided not
to travel abroad due to the ruble crash. This domestic
tourism can be year-round – especially as people take
advantage of ‘off-season’ prices. In addition with the Expo
Forum now open, St. Petersburg needs to present itself as
a global incentive city – it is a great facility. This can help
drive business through the year – again for domestic
events as well as international events. If or when the visa
system is simplified then the city can also look to attract
more European weekend break visitors. Finally, there can
and will be constant growth of corporate and governmental business which does not depend on seasonality.
The Russian hospitality sector has posted significant, if not always steady, growth over the past 10
years or so. Do you expect the curve to level off, or
will demand and supply continue to rise at more or
less the same rate? We tend to see peaks and troughs
here – a few years of good growth then a crisis or sudden
boost in supply with a sharp drop. It is important for new
hotels to open but when we see too many new hotels arriving at once, in the same segment then it does impact
adversely the market – especially so in the regions.
• Local chains developing / Branded Hotels in Regions
– Azimut (who are now also present in Europe), Marins
Group and AMAKS amongst others. Taking older Sovietera hotels and upgrading them to breathe new life into
old assets across the country – offering a better quality
of accommodation still at reasonable prices for the mass
market. This has improved travelling for many corporate
guests – myself included! The last 5-7 years has seen a
significant number of branded hotels opening outside of
Moscow and St. Petersburg – over the next 10 years many
more will open too. This also highly improves the travelling
experience and helps boost the image of the regions.
How does the hotel sector in Moscow and St. Petersburg differ from the Russian regions? I am very concerned about oversupply in the regions. I think Moscow
will recover a bit next year, 2015 will be tough. St. Petersburg will continue to benefit from more internal tourism
but the regions although not suffering now from any
real crisis will suffer as new supply opens. For now, since
business in the regions is mostly local, hotels have not
suffered too badly. The issue is the World Cup – and how
that will inspire people to build too many new hotels in
cities that cannot support so many new hotels – what
happens afterwards? The regions are very price sensitive
so hotels can only get so much average rate.
• Moscow - city expanding outwards. When I started in 1995
I worked in the Palace Hotel at Belorusskaya. It seemed like
it was the MKAD! Over the years as the prime city centre expanded outwards we have seen new micro areas develop –
around the Aeroexpress at Belorusskaya, Paveleteskaya and
Kievskaya (all 3 areas are now highly desired hotel zones), in
Moscow City, at the airports themselves and so on.
Where do you prefer to stay, if you have the choice?
Global brand, or local gem? It really depends for me. With
business trips here in Russia I will always hope for a brand if
there is one – just for peace of mind, a decent breakfast and
a good night sleep! All crucial when you travel frequently. For
pleasure I will try to find some local hotels with local character
especially if it’s for a weekend – in the right location.
If you would like your expat or business group to be featured here,
just drop us a line at [email protected]
58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Expat & Lifestyle
Religious Services
Buddhist Temple
QPrimorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911
224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed.
Catholic Church of St. Catherine
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Evangelical Lutheran Church
of St. Katarina (Swedish church)
QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/
Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/.
Evangelical Lutheran Parish
of St. Maria Church
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Grand Choral Synagogue
of St. Petersburg
QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for
visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00.
Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.
clinics
American Medical Clinic and Hospital
QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812
740 20 90, www.amclinic.com. Open 24hrs.
Euromed Medical Center
QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Open 24hrs.
Scandinavia clinic
QE-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
International Schools
German School
QB-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. Open
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Infant School (British International
School)
QF-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714
77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Mandarina Day (Preschool Child Development Center)
QF-3, Nevsky pr. 147A, MPl. Al. Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812
924 24 98, www.mandarinaday.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
The International Pre-School
QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 921 977 89 35. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
LEARN russian at the
liden & denz
Dictionary for expats:
Curiosity killed the cat
Being curious can get you into trouble. We often tell
people this in an attempt to warn someone not to
ask too many questions about a certain topic, or to
stop prying into the affairs of somebody else. However, Russians have a very different way of portraying
the same meaning. “Lyubopytnoi Varvare na bazare
nos otorvali”. The translation of this peculiar turn of
phrase is ‘Nosy Barbara had her nose torn off at the
market’, referring to the way in which being intrusive
and nosy will only result in an unpleasant situation
for you. In other words, as the proverb goes in English, ‘curiosity killed the cat’.
Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Petersburg’s oldest language schools. They have expanded
into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian
is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though
individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are
bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for
student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own
laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Derzhavin Institute
The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw
yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting.
There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings
and large windows. There’s also a library, common
rooms and computers with free internet access for
students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency.
They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are
kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group.
The staff speak many different languages and have
experience in teaching at both Russian universities
and abroad. They can also organise accommodation,
excursions and other social activities for students.
QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26,
www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes
till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun.
February - March 2015
59
AL
YP
R.
84
65
M
25
HO
YP
R.
LS
BO
RS
KA
YA
UL
.
KA
YA
UL
.
BO
L.
M
33
PU
SH
KA
AL
YP
R.
RS
PR
.
26
61
H O 18
Y
11 P R .
PER.
MATVEEVA
6
15
V ER K S K Y PR .
12
77
94
MAL. KONYUSHENNAYA UL.
BOL. KONYUSHENNAYA UL.
18
55
B.
NA
65
AYA
UL.
RE
KY
OI
10
25
KAZ 7
AN
SK
M
9
19
LS
7
BO
.
AN
.
UL
ED
OV
AK
GR
IB
O
178
KY
R.
MA
A
19
9
B.
NA
.
UL
KA
YA
KA
YA
S
KO
V
PS
K RO N
38
.
G
DN
YP
R.
YA
YA
.
KA
.
UL
SKA
EIS
UL
OV
YA
A
YA
KH
VER
L SK
PU
SK A
DO
SER
NIT
PO
ON
BR
BATAISKY PER.
49
ZA
MOSKOVSKY P
KAYA UL.
5-YA KRASNOARMEIS
KAYA UL.
6-YA KRASNOARMEIS
EGO
TERGOFS
KY PR
CHAPAEVA UL
LO
VS
CH
KA
44
30
14
KY
DO
ZH
S
NO
VO
LA
RE
KY
O
HK
I
SK
BS
0
EN
TE
4
ED
VI
B.
VV
PR
YA
Z
10
NA
O
OR
1
TEKHNOLOGICHESKY
SOVETSKY PER.
A UL.
U
KY
AN
NT
INSTITUT
SKAYA UL.
1-YA KRASNOARMEI
KAYA UL.
2-YA KRASNOARMEIS
1
17
KAYA UL.
3-YA KRASNOARMEIS
KAYA UL.
4-YA KRASNOARMEIS
1
IZMAILOVSKY PR.
2
MOSKOVSKY PR.
.
Y PER
INSK
HAV
DERZ
15
11
ER
RIV
116
1 32
ISKAYA UL.
13-YA KRASNOARME
30
ISKAYA UL.
8-YA KRASNOARME
2
ISKAYA UL.
9-YA KRASNOARME
ISKAYA UL.
10-YA KRASNOARME
FO
109
11 5
A
NK
NTA
.
2
PR.
FO
129
SEM
91
KY
RE
1
SOVA
RAZIN
YA
VA
HO
B.
K
RO
GO
NA
ER.
KY P
RS
KA
TE
AP
53
3
D
N
43
R.
PE
SA
TROITSKY PR.
30
29
7
MOSKOVSKY
74
IT
PER. BO
ER.
YP
Y
REK
38
SADOVAYA
SENNAYA PL.
SENNAYA PL. 1 EF
IM
OV
.L
AU
U
L.
YA 0
A
OV 5
71
VOZNESENSKY PR.
K
OLS
NIK
Y
NK
B
NA
L.
R.
PE
BOL. PODYACHESKAYA UL.
UL. SREDNYAYA
PODYACHESKAYA
7
U
YA
KA
Y
RN
YA
OL
ST
R.
Y PE
NS
Y
SK
ARN
AZ
S
A
HD
KA
UC
ER VS
HN
. KY
OY
PE
R.
AS
SP
FON
UL.
YA UL.
R.
PE
VA
SO
IV T
GR
ER.
OP
NK
NE
TO
R.
NTA
.
TOVSKY PR
LERMON
YA
DROV YANA
O
SKO G
KOV
IOL
TS
.
AN
PE
L.
AU
AY
KO
REN
AKA
.M
PER
R.
YP
SK
.
PER
OV
KLIM
AN
RIZHSKY PR
.
FO
43
G7R
Z AN
135
20
144
UL
B.
.
UL
M
SKY
LIN
LUB PER.
62
V SK
NTO
YA
NA
MO
LER
PR.
SK Y
GLI
AN
R.
PE
.
OY
UL
AN
A
OV
AK
RM
S
YA
RS
–KO
GO
SKO OEDOVA K AN. N
IM
B
134
AB.
R
GRI
UL.
A
Y
KA
ERS
ON
KAN
L.
AU
UTIN
LAB
39
KA
NIKOLSKAYA
PL.
. NA
PR.
VA
AKO
FONTANKA RIVER
156
UL.
DR
E
V.
M
TS
LO
UL.
AYA
OV
S AD
Y
NK
GLI
PEC
115
AN
A
UZ
K
VA
UKO
SOY
L.
VU
IKO
TN
HA
KRY
L.
VU
STO
BRI
.
UL
KY
MARIINSKY
THEATRE TEATRALNAYA
PL.
SKY
MINPER.
60
40
L.
VU
21 RISTO
89
AB
K
E
D
A
OV
ED
IBO BAN
GR
K
M
P O
19
27
L.
AU
K AY
KAZANSK
PL.
19
YA
VA
HO
TS
104
6
74
20
5
4
M
TA
.
UL
YA
SKA
T
S
M
OR
TA
L. M
CH
BO
PO
L.
AU
.
UD
NAB
TR
AN.
VA K
UKO
KOS
AYA
LINIY
A
1
CH
G
4
R.
K
RO
GO
L.
AU
AY
RN
.
LE
UL
A
B
G
KY
S
I
E
RD
VA
PO
O
NN
KO
YP
4
Y PER.
VOLYNSK
NEVSK
Y PR.
L.
AU
Y
IR
A
K
M
S
AD
OR ADMIRALTEISKAYA
L.
.M
AU
AL
M
AY
SK
OR
M
L.
BO
ISAAKIEVSKAYA
54
R
PL.
RIVE
IKA 58
MO
UL.
A
64
KAY
ISK
VOZNESENSKY PR.
.
.
TE
AL
6
30
AB
16
AB
K
EIS
LT
AN
AY
39
DVORTSOVAYA
PL.
2
A
IR
M
AD
K RY
.
UL.
Y PR
A
DEK
51
.
.
IYA
PISAREVA
LISK
A NG
1
KUNSTKAMERA
29
41
UL
ER
IN
4
YP
AL
3-Y
AB.
O
SK
YA
INI
N
YA
KA
40
KY N
HE
L
-YA
–1
YA
INI
Y RE
OG
SK
YA
INI
3
YA
INI
AL
AY
5
2-
YA
INI
L
-YA
MO I K
DVORTSOVY
MOST
B.
NA
YA
SK A
28
HERMITAGE
SK
L
YA
KA
TE T
L
AU
AY
7
NN
RIVER
IO
LI L
M27 A
K
I
O
M
O
DV
BIRZHEVAYA
PL.
OV
HK
OS R .
M PE
IN
TS
A
114
52
ER
RIV B.
A
A
V
NE RTSOVAYA N.
4
EV
ELE
ND
ME IYA
DE
74
166
PETER AND PAUL
FORTRESS
11
TRUDA
.
PL.
UL
YA
B.
NA
A
R
.N
LE
A
N
G
KA
LT.
IR A
DM
49
N.
R.
YA
YA
L SH
YA
INI
25
AL
3-Y
YA
INI
KA
AL
AY
EV
ZH 1 6
PE
INI
INI
YA
IYA
YA
BO
L IS
NG
A
T
VOY PROEZD
ZHE
BIR
BLAGOVESHCHENSKY
MOST
ER
RIV
VA
NE
A
AY
YA
-2
24
L
YA
27-
L
-YA
21
22
26
O
AL
3-Y 20
17
INI
IN
27
.
8
1
B.
INI
20
AL
9 -Y
INI
-1
YA
18
INI
AL
7-Y
-1
YA
16
INI
AS
NT
12
OG
V
KO
KA
AL
5-Y
AL
7-Y
AL
9-Y
35
17
24
23
17
A
TEN
LEI
A UL
MENSHIKOV
PALACE
R SI
IVE
UN
A
AN
IDT
HM
SK
TROITSKAYA
PL.
NAB.
AYA
KSK
VER
ON
KR
ZOO
MAKAROVA NAB.
BIR
CH
2-
46-
8-
YA
INI
25
20
AL
1-Y
.
LY
AN
TU
YA
INI
YA
INI
24
20
-2
ER
UL.
AS
2
10
34
44
2
4
13
13
62
R.
YP
HO
M
B
S
OL
25
20
AL
3-Y
YP
B
R.
YP
HO
31
47
55
73
S
OL
.
PR
NY 1 8
VASILEOSTROVSKAYA
YA
INI
YA
INI
-2
IYA
LIN
22
A
ED
SR
35
YA
INI
60
IYA
IN
L
-YA
19
N
ED
SR 76
L
-YA
- 13
L
YA
1 5-
L
-YA
17
18
R.
YP
51
L
YA
11-
12
14
16
71
YA
INI
59
AL
9-Y
10
50
61
59
YA
INI
8-
38
14
7
8
BIRZHEVOY
MOST
7
M
IC H
UR
IN
15
1
B.
45
43
41
AL
7-Y
22
25
V ER K S K Y P R .
GORKOVSKAYA
M
YT
NI
NS
KA
YA AB.
N
AL
3-Y
R.
AL
5-Y
P
LY
4-
MA
6-
51
29
KHIN
UL .
OVA
PR.
2-
12
79
4
49
2
K AYA
23
22
Y N A B.
OV
3
LENKY REK
T
KO
1
O
SM
VC
LYU
B
3
3
21
VA N
A
PE
BRO
TUCHKOV
MOST
A RO
K RO N
2
DO
SPORTIVNAYA
MAK
SK A
YA U L .
L.
11
RIV
ER
AU
16
A UL.
BLO
L AY
AN
EVA
35
4
15
AYA
UL.
.
PR
L SK
MA
UL .
25
SYEZZHINSKAYA UL.
Z VERINS
1
1
V VE
DEN
OVA
VO S K
UL.
UL.
MIRA
KY
KA
YA
UL
.
KA
SH
PU
UL.
AYA
1
M A L.
SK
ERK
.
L.
TNAYA
MONE
AVSTRISKAYA PL.
L.
14
L.
U
YA
KA
IN
AY 13
A
UL
2
K AY
AU
BOL.
26
MS
K AY
AU
NS
SK
PIO
NE
RS
NT
AU
L.
INS
RK
OV
CHKALOVSKAYA
B AU
11
OG
OK
UR
SA
Z H 21
DA
N
I EN
23
S
OV
TR
KA
YA
UL
.
A SN
GA
TC H
AN
OS
23
OR
22
UL
.
24
UL.
GENA
RENT
NV
KR
35
ELE
NIN
A
UL .
LVA TOLSTOGO UL.
KRO
30
L. Z
.
IN A
BL I
SA
PIO
NE
RS
A UL
NAY
PUS 3
KOR
0
L EN
0
PETROGRADSKAYA
PL. LVA
TOLSTOGO
SA
SKAYA KO
BO
28
.
UL
OV
MA
PETROV
YA
KA
KA
YA
UL
.
A SH
LEV
NO
EN
M
AL A
ADMIR48
A
LAZ
LEVASHOVSKY PR.
33
.
UL
YA
NA
MALAYA
A AB.
VK
NE EVA N
R
40
KA
T IV
GA
DS
L.
OR
8
RO
GR
A
8
PE
T
LY
P
AM
LO
VS
DIN
CH
KA
.
RIV
K Y PR
NAYA U
TOV S
SP
K RE S
K
TS
DE
LO
MA
KAY
AU
L.
Y PR.
OSIS
FEO
D
6
ODESSKAYA UL.
1
SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.
SMOLNAYA NAB.
B.
24
KAYA
AYA
UL.
NOV
GOR
ODS
SK A
YA
N
OP
MALOOKH
TINSKY PR
.
50
MALO
SIN
24
32
OMSKAYA UL.
ISPO
LK
14
KH
P E
12
2
25
DNEPROPET
ROVSKAYA
UL.
CHERNYAKHOVS
KOGO UL.
126
143
AM
AT
6
A
AY
SK
AN 2
29
31
39
49
AU
L.
.
.
UL
4
21
D
VO
OB
NY
KA
NA
L
R.
NY P
145
AL.N
EVS
KO
GO
UL.
3
5
13
89
105
102
LIGOVSKY
121
PR.
OV
AU
L.
112
BOROVA
YA UL.
SL
ON
AB. 70 KRASNOGO
TEKSTILSHCH
IKA UL.
76
NY
DE
26
22
10
TNIN
6
MY
2
KH 16 POL
AR
TAV
KO
SK
VS
KA 4 AYA U
YA
L.
UL
.
PR.
LIGO
V SK Y
AYA U
L.
KINSK
DO
ST
OE
V
PUSH
SK
OG
O
UL.
MAR AT
A UL.
5
67
57
PUSHK
INSK
RUBIN
S
25
PROLETARSKOY DIKTATURI UL.
63
PR
.
KY
SU
VO
RO
VS
GT
YA
R
32
32
30
18
RNA
YA
UL.
T YA
DEG
43
AYA U
L.
DMITRO
V
PER. SKY
POVARS
PER. KOY
13
HTEIN
SK A 1 2
YA U 14
L.
12
3
8
4
VLADIMIRSKY PR.
5
18
A UL
.
10
RIV 33
ER
50
NT
AN
KA
FO
41
2
5
ZOD. RO 3
SSI UL.
4
INSKA
YA NA
4
31
SUV 16
OR
OV 18
SK Y
PR. 24
YP
17 R.
1
GR
ECH
1 E SK
PR.
LIGO
V SK Y
UL.
YA UL.
POT YOMKINSKA
RADISHCHEVA UL.
RADISHCH
EVA UL.
20
28
MAYAKOVSKOGO UL.
CHEKHOVA UL.
14
VOSSTANIYA UL.
KIR
ILLO
V SK
1
KOROLENKO UL.
35
LITEINY PR.
3
4
MOKHOVAYA UL.
B.
FONTANK Y REK Y NA
AYA UL.
KARAVANN
PR.
CHERNYSHEVSKOGO
1
SADOVA
YA UL.
MAL. SA
DOVA
YA UL-.
KAY
AU
L.
DU
MS
ZA
6
27
OBVODNY KANAL
YA U
L
ALEXANDER NEVSKY
.
CATHEDRAL
AB
.N
11
AN
OK
G
O
DN
VO
19
OB
ORO
S T 32
AN
TIN
A
UL .
3
UL.
5
98
KO
N
EV
2
5
7
G
RYB
OVA
YA U
L.
V TS
ALEXANDRA
NEVSKOGO
MOST
9
NO
PR
AV
DY
UL
.
1
PR.
7
KHA
B.
KY
8
UL.
.NA
2
S TA
75
E VS
Z AN
B
OY O
V SK
KHO
OBU
ROM
ENSK
AYA
PAVLO
GR
PER.ADSKIY
K AN
MALO
OHTINS
PARK
86
OGO
8
P ER .
99
TRAN
SPOR
TNY P
ER.
LIGOVSKY PR.
HINA
UL.
OBV
ODN
6
43
13
N OY
83
YAKORNAY
BOLSHEOHTINSKY
MOST
82
26
YE ZD
.
UL. YA UL
YA
A
IS K
SK A
ZOV OZHA
RU
M
.
UL
89
2
80
UL.
AYA
.
POD
UL
91
T YUS
13
1
3
L
MIKHAILOV
SKAYA UL. -
TU
GRIBOEDOVA KAN. NAB.
3
SK
EN
M
LO
KO
L.
2
AYA UL.
.
UL
YA
KA
18
LA
L.
AU
AT
DSK
NA
R
MA
84
60
L.
AU
AY
UKSK
KREMENCH
1 8 ES
H
PIONERSKAYA
PL.
.
PR
SKY
SEL
O
K
S
L
T IC
KA
K
R.
YP
L IS
9
ZVENIGORODSKAYA
ORO
NIG
Z VE
O
NS
KL I
IA
37
YP
ER
.
PUSHKINSKAYA
GO
TS
SO
L.
ZA
CH
30
1
BO
44
SKY PR.
5
YA
NA
64
.
UL
KA
8
AU
62
2
9
60
BOL SHEOHTIN
.
1
54
PR.
36
44
NEVSK
Y
AY
UL .
8
18
ETS
10
KA
UL.
YA 5 -YA S MOISEENKO
8-Y
21
27 39
UL
OV 17
AS
.
E
TS
OV
KA
ET
YA
SK
AY
7-Y
AU
UL
AS
.
L.
OV
ET
SK
AY
AU
L.
4
SMOLNY PR.
SK
4-Y
AS
OV
3-Y
ET
SK
1 A SO
AY
ANICHKOV
AU
VE
2-Y
SHOPPING
A UL.
GOSTINY DVOR
TS
AS
L.
SKAY
39 MOST
CENTER
1
94
KA
43
O
ORUS
OSTROVSKOGO
96
NEVSKY
VE
SHOPPING
YA
47
STAR
T
PL.
CENTER
UL
CENTER
49
34
SK
.
A
GOSTINY
VOSSTANIYA
YA
DVOR
UL
PL.
N.
STREMYAMAYAKOVSKAYA
.
81
35
NNAYA UL
12
GRA
8
.
F
.
SKY P
29
UL LOM
ER.
21
PL. VOSSTANIYA
PR.
14
7
YA
ON
0
NINA 11 1
GO
VA
BA2KU 7 KH
OS
NC
DO
OV
HA
13 ERS
3
SA
K
4
ON
AU
O
RN
NSKY
14
NA 8 15 NS
55
A
KOLOKO
L.
8
RSOOEZD
KA
SHCH
YA
15 YA
LN
15
R
YA
UL
UL
UL. AYA
KOV ERBALOMONOSOVA
2
.
UL
.
PER.
PL.
31
DOSTOEVSKAYA
.
11
AP
7
LO
RA
KUZNEC
7 MO
59
TE
KS
HNY PE
NE 170
41
NO
7 LE
IN
R.
VS 17
40
ZH
VLADIMIRSKAYA
SO
PE
1
14 K Y 2
4
15
3
NA
VA
7
R.
7 PR
Y
UL
15 .
AU
SHOPPING
180
M 16
.
DZ
1
3
8
2
IRG
1
CENTER
9 L.
HA
18
RA1
BO
OR
GALERIA
MB
2
79
SV
16
20 Z Y
RO
OD
9
UL
EC
EZ
.
DI
AP
PL. ALEXANDRA
HN
SK
ZH
PR
NS
MYONOVSKAYA
ER
4
AY
O
Y
NEVSKOGO
A
0
K
Y
N
. D 3
AU
PL.
AY
13 YA
P
E
O
U
R
.
A U 1 OR
.
L.
3 L.
L. 3 ZAG
29
60
L
YA U
VSK A
33
2
OV
CH
KOVENSKY PER.
31
11
PER
.
SHOS
74
RO
9 -Y
AS
53
49
B.
SMOLNY CATHEDRAL
KI
VILENSKY PER.
6
NEVA
GARDEN
RE VOLYUT
SII
50
O RLO
43
4
BASKOV PER.
NEKRASOVA UL.
ZHUKOVSKOGO UL.
UL .
41
2
UL.
SAPYORNY PER.
39
NA
2
YA
ARDSKA
48
KIROCHNAYA
KAVALERG
ARTILLERISKAYA UL.
UL.
RYLEEVA UL.
TAVRICHESKY
SAD
49
TVERSKAYA UL.
ESK AYA
B.
1
83
FURSHTATSKAYA UL.
30
YA UL.
POLSKA
STAVRO
49
ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL.
CHERNYSHEVSKAYA
10
SHPALERNAYA UL.
43
UL.
NA
.
38
PARADNAYA
PREOBRAZH.
PL.
.
H
TAVRIC
20
KOGO UL.
BELINSKOGO BELINS 11
1
PL.
SKAYA UL
L.
AU
AY
2
30
22
KY
RE
ITALYAN
SHOPPING
CENTER
PASSAGE
N
AB
50
41
34
B.
TAVRICHESKY PER.
59
FURSHTATSKAYA UL.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
OL
AN
AY
CHAIKOVSKOGO UL.
21
24
KY
AN
NT
2
KAYA
NEVSKY PR.
SKAYA NA
1
3
5
9
25
20
FO
B.
ISKUSSTV
ITALY PL.
A NS K
AYA U
L.
MO
A NAB.
.
P ER .
NA
L.
AU
INZH E N ERNAY
24
SVERDLOV
NE
VA
RIV
SM
ER
OL
NA
YA
SM
31
15
6
11
ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL.
1
12
7
O
KOMS
UL.
AYA NAB.
ROBESPYER
PESTELYA UL.
2
MOLA
.
L A UL
LITEINY
MOST
L.
VAYA U
MOKHO
A N OY
SOLY
ER
I
AVK
10
IV
NKA R
AN
YA UL.
INSKA
GAGAR
6
FONTA
K
HEY
YAZ
LEB
MARSOVO
POLE
LETNY
SAD
ARSENALN
LITEINY PR
2
CHAIKOVSKOGO UL.
16
14
LN
2
12
AU
L.
NA
SE
4
2
KOMSO
VOSSTANIYA UL.
L.
A B.
12
UL.
VA N
RNAYA
UZO
SHPALE
KUT 34
TIN
AR
AKADEM
IKA LE
1
BEDEV
A UL.
7
U
VA
TROITSKY
MOST
PL. LENINA
14
AE
AP
B OT K
SAMPSONIEVSKY
INSK
1
MOST
AYA
UL .
FINLYANDSKY PR.
.
L
AU
V
E
5
H
KLIN
YS
ICHE
YB
SKAY
KU
A UL
.
AY
AU
3
PIRO
G
OVSK
L.
CRUISER AVRORA
AYA 1
NAB
.
A B.
YA N
SK A
ROV
T
E
P
6
KON
D
13
CH
VA
TU
RAT Y
PR.
R.
YP
NO
SK Y
VA UL .
SKY PR.
LES
V
NIE
SMIRNO
OKH T
MINERALNAYA UL.
E V SK
SO
MP
.
8
R.
POLYUST
ROVSKY
ZHU
PR.
KOV
AU
L.
L.
SA
OY
40
O
PETR
13
VY
A UL.
BORGSKAY
PISKARYOV
L SH
.
U
YA
NA
KY
NEISHLOTS
BO
B.
A NA
SKAY
21
ER
GOV
A RIV
PIRO
NEVK
B.
A NA
HAYA
SKAY 22
GRAD
B OL S
FOKINA UL
Street register
1-28-ya liniya
B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.
C-3
Rubinshteina ul.
E-3
Admiralteisky pr.
D-3
E-2
Ryleeva ul.
E-2
Kovensky per.
Alexandra Nevskogo most
F-3
Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.
F-2
Sadovaya ul.
E-2,3
Angliskaya nab.
C-3
Kronverkskaya nab.
D-2
Sampsonievsky most
D-1
E-2
Anichkov most
E-3
Kronversky pr.
D-1
Sapyorny per.
Arsenalnaya nab.
E-2
Kutuzova nab.
D-2/E-2
Shpalernaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Bakunina pr.
F-3
Lermontovsky pr.
C-3/C-4
Shvedsky per.
D-2
Baskov per.
E-2
Letny sad
D-2
Sinopskaya nab.
F-3
Belinskogo ul.
E-2
Leitenanta Shmidta nab.
C-3
Smolnaya nab.
F-2
Birzhevaya liniya
C-2
Ligovsky pr.
E-3/E-4
Solyanoy per.
E-2
Blagoveshchensky most
C-2
Liteiny most
E-2
Sotsialisticheskaya ul.
E-3
Blokhina ul.
C-2
Liteiny pr.
E-2/E-3
Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.
E-3/F-2,3
Bol. Konyushennaya ul.
D-2
Lomonosova ul.
D-3/E-3
Spassky per.
D-3
B-2,3/C-2
Bol. Morskaya ul.
C-3/D-3
Makarova nab.
C-2
Sredniy pr. (V0)
Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.
D-3
Mal. Konyushennaya ul.
D-2
Starorusskaya ul.
F-3
Bolsheokhtinsky most
F-2
Mal. Morskaya ul.
D-3
Stolyarny per.
D-3
Bolshoy pr. (PS)
C-1,2
Mal. Posadskaya
D-1
Stremyannaya ul.
E-3
Bolshoy pr. (VO)
B-3/C-2
Mal. Sadovaya
E-3
Suvorovsky pr.
F-2,3
Chernyshevskogo pr.
E-2
Maly pr. (PS)
C-1
Sverdlovskaya nab.
F-1,2
Chkalovsky pr.
C-1
Maly pr. (VO)
B-1
Tavricheskaya ul.
F-2
E-2
Degtyarnaya ul.
F-3
Manezhnaya pl.
E-3
Chaikovskogo ul.
Dekabristov ul.
C-3/D-3
Marata ul.
E-3
Teatralnaya pl.
C-3
Dostoevskogo ul.
E-3
Marsovo pole
D-2
Troitsky most
D-2
Dumskaya ul.
D-3
Mayakovskogo ul.
E-2/E-3
Tuchkov most
C-2
Dvortsovaya nab.
D-2
Mendeleevskaya liniya
C-2
Tverskaya ul.
F-2
Efimova ul.
D-3
Mikhailovskaya ul.
D-3
Universitetskaya nab.
C-2,3
Furshtatskaya ul.
E-2
Millionnaya ul.
D-2
Vladimirsky pr.
E-3
Galernaya ul.
C-3
Moskovsky pr.
D-3/D-4
Vosstaniya ul.
E-2,3
Glinki ul.
C-3
Moiky reky nab.
C-3/D-2,3
Vosstaniya pl.
E-3
D-3
Goncharnaya ul.
E-3
Muchnoy per.
D-3
Voznesensky pr.
Gorokhovaya ul.
D-3
Mytninskaya nab.
С-2/D-2
Zagorodny pr.
D-3,4/E-3
Grafsky per.
E-3
Nekrasova ul.
E-2
Zhukovskogo ul.
E-3
Griboedova kan. nab.
C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.
D-3/E-3/F-3
Grivtsova per.
D-3
Ostrovskogo pl.
E-3
Inzhenernaya ul.
E-3
Pestelya ul.
E-2
Abbreviations
Isaakievskaya pl.
D-3
Petrovskaya nab.
D-2
Ul. – Ulitsa
Iskusstv pl.
D-3
Pirogovskaya nab.
E-1/E-2
Pr. – Prospekt
Italyanskaya ul.
D-3/D-4
Pochtamtskaya ul.
C-3
Pl. – Ploshchad
Kadetskaya liniya
C-2
Poltavskaya ul.
F-3
Bul. – Bulvar
Kamennoostrovsky pr.
D-1
Pushkinskaya ul.
E-3
Per. – Pereulok
Karavannaya ul.
E-3
Radishcheva ul.
E-2/E-3
Kan. – Kanal
Kazanskaya ul.
D-3
Razyezzhaya ul.
E-3
Nab. – Naberezhnaya
Kirochnaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.
C-3,4/D-3
Bol. – Bolshaya
Kolokolnaya ul.
E-3
Robespyera nab.
E-2
Mal. – Malaya
62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Metro map
Advertise on this map!
Call:
(+7) 812 448 88 65
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
February - March 2015
63
Moscow
Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business
capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious
from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this
mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife
reflect its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted,
the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.
Red Square
The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red
Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter
the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by
Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops,
the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney.
Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell.
Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St.
Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured
domes. At the other end you will find the State Historical
Museum which details the long and turbulent history of
the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the
beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department
store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to
let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.
GUM
QRed Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43,
www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
QRed Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33
04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission
250Rbl.
State Historical Museum
QRed Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37
31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60
- 440Rbl.
Don’t forget to pick up a free copy of Moscow
In Your Pocket in your hotel!
64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively
ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking
the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In
the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin,
the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient
city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of
the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red
walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical,
through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet
modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took
Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are
a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having
bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom
located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself,
along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient
buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a
separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which
will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be
purchased before you enter the Kremlin.
Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s
Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for
which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to
check before you enter the Kremlin.
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael
A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian
rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian
renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets
and white stonework.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Moscow
Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482.
The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most
valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the
time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on
them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes
Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s
robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople
(now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled
in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this
church notably has stained glass windows. Along with
some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption
The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475
by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan
the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers
made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead,
some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them
back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services
resumed in 1990.
Churches
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637
28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups
for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call
(+7) 495 637 28 47).
Novodevichy Monastery
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
Pokrovsky Monastery
QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911
49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00.
Admission free.
Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20
- 200Rbl.
GULAG History Museum
QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu
11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
State Central Museum of Contemporary
Russian History
QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24,
www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl.
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00
- 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the
exhibition.
Tretyakov Gallery
QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.
getting there
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day
from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not
making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can
also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train,
which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you
there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to
Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at
one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress
train which brings you right to the centre.
Luxury Trains
to Moscow
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The
cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night
and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have
already been made up with real duvets rather than
blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot
breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in
the morning and if at any moment during the trip you
experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come
to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh
in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave
Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:38 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495
35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
February - March 2015
65
Moscow
hotels
Aeroexpress Trains
All international airports in Moscow have a fast train
connection to the capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all!
Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal
and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal
and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket
counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals,
through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies,
and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed
almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets
can be found on the company’s website where you can
purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You
can buy an electronic ticket from the official website
www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view
train timetables. Download their free mobile app and
you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using
your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket:
the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s
QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QKalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7)
495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms
(Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). hhhhh
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QUl. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495
287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). hhhhh
Hotel National
QMokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room
prices start at 8,500Rbl). hhhhh
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7)
495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room
prices start at 15,000Rbl). hhhhh
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QTverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495
937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). hhhhh
Metropol
QTeatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501
78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room
prices start at 9,440Rbl). hhhhh
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo
Airport Hotel
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya,
tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.com.
342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). hhhhh
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,500Rbl). hhhh
Best Western Plus Vega Hotel
& Convention Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). hhhh
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
Q1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). hhhh
Novotel Moscow Centre
QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,602Rbl). hhh
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720
53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices
start at 3,990Rbl). hhh
Comrade Hostel
QUl. Maroseyka 11, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31
26, www.comradehostel.com. (Prices start from 600Rbl).
iVan Hostel
QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel.
(+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. (Prices start
from 700Rbl).
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Looking for
expats,
tourists &
businesspeople?
Advertise with
St. Petersburg
In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg
Call +7 812 448 88 65