oct In co-operation with 2014 Leo Brouwer – Cuba’s classical maestro turns 75 years young Camagüey Theatre Festival (October 4-11) Driving through Cuba’s provincial heart Havana Guide Cuban Theatre ISSUE Restaurants — Bars & Clubs — Accommodation by Nicolas Ordoñez PHOTO With a Passion for Cuba Cuba Absolutely is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba arts & culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... We seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips. HAVANA GUIDE The ultimate guide to Havana with detailed reviews of where to eat, drink, dance, shop, visit and play. Unique insights to the place that a gregarious, passionate and proud people call home. Nazdarovie Like us on Facebook for beautiful images, links to interesting articles and regular updates. Over 100 videos including interviews with Cuba’s best artists, dancers, musicians, writers and directors. OUR CONTRIBUTORS Follow us on Twitter for regular updates of new content, reviews, comments and more. We are deeply indebted to all of the writers and photographers who have shared their work with us. We welcome new contributors and would love hear from you if you have a Cuba-related project. You can contact us at [email protected]. Ruy López-Nussa band performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival photo by Alex Mene editorial Cover picture of Fito Páez with Leo Brouwer looking on at the 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival Photo by Alex Mene Theatre in Cuba is often seen as the poor relation of Cuban arts and culture. There has been no equivalent of Buena Vista Social Club, Los Van Van or Carlos Acosta taking the world by storm. Overly dramatic, impenetrable to understand (without impeccable Spanish) and a mixed bag of facilities, leave many to bypass or simply never find what is on offer. Understandable as this sentiment may be, there is a lot to miss—from the flamboyant to the introspective, avant-garde to the classical, performing arts in Cuba offers not just some brilliant acting and direction, but an insight into both contemporary and historical Cuba with a style and an edge which is puro Cubano. From October 4-14, Camagüey’s 2014 Theatre Festival showcases the best of Cuban theatre in the city’s theater houses. To mark the occasion, this issue has features on Carlos Diaz, brilliant director of El Público, as well as a review of his latest and most provocative work—Antigonón—and a review of Piñera’s Aire frío in contemporary Cuba For those thinking of making the trip to Camagüey, we have two features on this central province from esteemed travel writers Jill Worrell and Lydia Bell. Our Havana section also features stories on Havana’s Barrio Chino and in keeping with the theatrical theme, El Caballero de Paris. October also sees the continuation of the Leo Brouwer Festival. Now at the mid-way point, this 6th Edition has been nothing short of spectacular and for the renowned Cuban composer Leo Brouwer, who recently celebrated his 75th birthday, it represents a fitting tribute to his ability to organize, inspire and manage one of Cuba’s premier music festivals. Do check out our expanded Havana Guide, which is growing to accommodate the new bars, restaurants and casas particulares that continue to spring forth adding vitality and energy to Havana’s entertainment and hospitality scene. October 2014 Highlights (Havana, unless stated) • Sep 26-Oct 12, Leo Brouwer Festival • Oct 1-31, Brazil Month of Culture • Oct 4-14, Camagüey Theatre Festival • Oct 9-19, British Week: Tremendo swing • Oct 17-20, Fiesta de la Cubanía (Bayamo) • Oct 20, Cuban National Culture Day (birth of Cuba’s National Anthem) • Oct 24-30, Fiesta de la Cultura Iberoamericana (Holguín) • Oct 28-Nov 7, International Ballet Festival Thanks to all of our contributors, sponsors, partners and readers. Do please keep providing us with your feedback, comments and suggestions. All enquiries should be directed to Sophia Beckman at CubaAbsolutely@ gmail.com. All the best. Viva Cuba! octuber 2014 Roberto Fonseca performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival photo by Alex Mene Leo Brouwer Leo Brouwer – Cuba’s classical maestro turns 75 years young p7 Cuban Theatre Theatre in Cuba: Past & Present p12 Camagüey Theatre Festival p15 Carlos Díaz: Director of Teatro El Público p20 Carlos Diaz’s provocatively brilliant Antigone p22 Piñera’s Aire frío in Contemporary Cuba p24 Havana Listings Visual Arts p26 — Photography p28 — Dance p29 — Music p31 — Theatre p37 — For Kids p39 British Week: Tremendo swing (Oct 9-19) p43 Brazilian month of culture (Oct 1-31) p45 Travel by Ricardo Alberto Pérez Driving through Cuba’s provincial heart with hitchhikers p48 Camagüey: Languishing in a city designed for pirates p50 Back to the future in Havana’s Barrio Chino p53 Havana Style The Gentleman from Paris (El Caballero de París) p56 La California Restaurant p59 Havana’s Own Cocktail Champion p62 Havana Guide Features — Restaurants — Bars & Clubs — Live Music — Hotels — Private Accommodation p64 Not to miss during Octuber 2014 Tue 6 13 Monday night football Monday night football Monday night football Birth of the National Monday night Anthem football Sep 30 7 14 21 28 Dinner at Mr Miglis’s Swedish-Cuban fusion oasis of good food and style in Centro Habana Inauguration of British Film Week with ‘The Invisible Woman (2013) by Ralph Fiennes @ Cine 23 y 12, 8.30pm Get a beer or six at Havana’s best new brewery: Cervecería Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y el Tabaco Oct 28-Nov 7, International Ballet Festival 8 15 22 29 Through Oct 12, Leo Dinner at El Litoral, Brouwer Festival one of Havana’s best new restaurants— This 6th Edition has watch life pass by the been nothing short of Malecón. spectacular. Still lots left to see. Don’t miss it! Dinner at Santy, Jaimanitas’s off-the beaten track worldclass sushi restaurant Dinner at Walter’s Carboncita. Enjoy the best pizzas in town—be warned: the Diablo is hot! Dinner at Habana Mía 7. 2 9 16 23 30 Dinner at La Guarida Havana’s most famous (and arguably best) restaurant located in Centro Habana October 9-19, British Watch peace break out between Russian Week and Ukrainian God Save the Queen diplomats at by Retazos @ Teatro Cuba’s premier Las Carolinas, 8pm Soviet restaurant, Nazdarovie Brazilian music concert @ Casa de las Américas as part of Brazil culture month, 7pm Take a 1950’s Chevrolet to La California to keep in touch with the historic neighborhood in this 3 10 17 24 31 Take in the drag show at the one and only Humboldt 52. Documentary Leo Brouwer Festival @ Cine Chaplin, 5pm Tropical con Swing @ Salón Rosado de la Tropical, 9.30pm featuring DJ Alain Dark, Déjà Vu, et al Oct 24-30, Fiesta de la Cultura Iberoamericana (Holguín) Dinner at the exceptional Starbien. Ask for the tuna terriki—simply spectacular. Oct 1 Wed Thu Fri Alas by Ballet Lizt Alfonso @ T Sat 20 4 11 18 25 Oct 4-14, Camagüey Theatre Festival Concert El arco y la lira @ Teatro Marti, 8.30pm Ruth Palmer @ Convento San Francisco de Asís, 6pm Caperucita Roja, el musical @ Teatro Mella, 8.30pm (premiere). Sunday 5.30pm Opening of Revelaciones @ San Francisco de Asís by Nelson Domínguez Sun ! Sep 29 Roberto Carcassés & his trio @ Café Miramar Phantom of the Opera @ Anfiteatro de la Habana Vieja, 9pm 12 19 26 National Symphony Orchestra @ Teatro Nacional, 5pm Concert de los ancestros including Chucho Valdés @ Teatro Karl Marx, 5pm Alice in Wonderland @ Teatro de las Estaciones, 10.30am ( for kids) La Máquina de la Melancolía, with Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García @ El Sauce, 5pm Oct 17-20, Fiesta de la Cubanía (Bayamo) Mon Tue Wed The new kid on the block is a spectacular new addition to Havana’s food scene. Thu Fri Sat 5 Muy Cubano... Cubanísimooo @ Carpa Trompoloco, Sat & Sun, 4pm 27 With a Passion for Cuba Mon what’s on havana Sun contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 6 Produced by .com photos by Alex Mene Leo Brouwer – Cuba’s classical maestro turns 75 years young by Ricardo Alberto Pérez Leo Brouwer has just turned 75. You would never know from looking at him although perhaps by reviewing his repertoire, his record, his contribution to Cuba’s musical heritage you would wonder how he had accomplished so much in such as short span of years. His music has created an entirely new way of thinking, a tuning fork for interpreting human sensibilities which covers a multitude of themes including renovation, universality, roots, fecundity and mystery. Aldo López Gavilán performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival Leo was born in Havana in 1939 and grew up obsessed with music. As a teenager he was lucky to cross paths with Isaac Nicola, an exceptional guitar teacher who opened the doors to composers such as Gaspar Sanz, Luis de Milán and, later on, Fernando Sor and Francisco Tárrega. Upon making his decision to concentrate on the guitar, Brouwer had determined the essence of his musicality and, to a great extent, the nature of his entire body of work. He became an exceptional performer, one of the most brilliant innovators ever known in the field of classical guitar. As he matured, on stage he transformed the guitar into a small orchestra. This phenomenon has its roots in the unprejudiced manner in which he handled the most diverse concepts, working without any sort of discrimination and shining a spotlight on the folkloric vein in the marvelous compositions of Bach and Villalobos. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 7 Produced by .com Ernán Lopez Nussa performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival Both Cuba and other countries owe Brouwer an eternal debt of gratitude for his founding and running such an extraordinary event that is the International Guitar Festival of Havana. It has been decisive for the formation and development of the highly respected Cuban School of Guitar not to mention crucial for the fate of the instrument on a world scale. Brouwer’s musical thinking has been able to accommodate a broad spectrum of sound, including guitar classics and the most important elements of Cuban and Latin American music, and encompassing phenomena such as Hindu music, The Beatles and jazz. His trajectory as composer took off after the 1950s and has had important moments with works such as Elogio de la danza (1964), La tradición se rompe… pero cuesta trabajo (1969), La espiral eterna (1970), De Bach a los Beatles (1978), and Manuscrito antiguo encontrado en una botella (1983). His guitar concerts have built up a beautiful history upon which he has extended the instrument’s possibilities. Brouwer’s compositions handle a fascinating mythology, with concerts being identified by names of specific cities and persons to which they have been dedicated. And so we have the Liege, Helsinki, Toronto and Havana concerts, all enriched by his intelligent dialogue with the great guitar tradition. From 1970 to 1980, Brouwer’s performances amazed the world as he repeatedly toured through England, Germany, France, Austria, Holland, Canada, Argentina, Mexico and other countries, establishing contacts with the world’s most famous performers and composers. This trajectory and those unique experiences later became an inestimable reservoir for him when he was forced to abandon the guitar at an early age due to crippling arthritis; he has finally devoted himself to composing and conducting orchestras. He has also conducted the Symphonic Orchestra of Cordoba in Spain and the National Symphonic Orchestra of Cuba. Talented young people, some barely out of their teens, often visit his offices hoping to sit in on a short class or merely wanting a bit of advice. He always welcomes them modestly and kindly and never ignores them. Joaquín Clerch, today one of the world’s guitar virtuosos and a great composer, was one of those youngsters. Like many others, he received help from Leo’s intuition and talent. So widespread are Brouwer’s contributions to Cuban music in general, that it would take a specialist to accurately describe them. Leo has always had an incredible talent for taking on several creative projects at the same time. While he was establishing himself as a solo artist, he created the greatest musical project Cuba (and possibly the American continent) has known: the Grupo de Experimentación Sonora del ICAIC (ICAIC’s Experimental Sound Croup) that would provide sound tracks for Cuban films and bring together Cuban musical talents, such as Silvio Rodríguez, Pablo Milanés and Sergio Vitier. This musical process outstripped his expectations and grew into a genuine school, captained by the Maestro himself. Pancho Céspedez performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 8 Produced by .com Fito Paez performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival Ernán Lopez Nussa performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival The Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival began on September 26 and will end on October 12, 2014 in Havana; it is yet another reason to joyfully celebrate his 75th birthday. Ernán Lopez Nussa, Pancho Céspedez performs as part of 2014 Leo Brouwer Festival contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 9 Produced by .com Photos by Alex Mene 6th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival Through October 12, 2014 Karl Marx, Mella, Martí, Miramar theaters; Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís, Charles Chaplin Cinema, Fábrica de Arte Cubano, Café Miramar, Habana Café, Centro Cultural El Sauce, Casas de la Música de Miramar y Habana Organized by the Leo Brouwer Office, the 6th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival—probably4 the most important music event of the year—began this past September 26 and will continue until October 12, 2014. Unfortunately, the organizers have announced that this will be the last one and will be bidding farewell to the growing audiences that have packed theaters and concert halls to enjoy “the perfect combination of different kinds of intelligent music,” which has been the purpose of the festival throughout the years. Wednesday, Oct 1 Friday, Oct 3 Teatro Karl Marx, 9pm Concert Fito Páez Esencial Leo Brouwer, Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana (Cuba) e invitados Casa de la Música Miramar, 7pm-2am Noche Blanca del Flamenco Aceituna sin Hueso, Josué Tacoronte, Reynier Mariño, Gabriel Elizondo, and others Teatro Martí, 8:30pm Concert Les Voix Humaines Jordi Savall (Spain) Thursday, Oct 2 Teatro Miramar, 9:30 am-12:30pm Clase magistral de Leo Brouwer Teatro Mella, 8:30pm Concert Palabras Haydée Milanés, Ernán López Nussa, Enrique Plá, Gastón Joya, Nam Sam Fong, Edgar Martínez, Roberto García, Molote, Carlos Frank, Schola Cantorum Coralina and Cuarteto de Cuerdas Presto (Cuba) e invitados Friday, Oct 3 Saturday, Oct 4 Teatro Martí, 5pm Concert Donna in Musica. Compositoras italianas ss. xvi-xvii Anna Aurigi y Giovanni Bellini (Italy), Vocal Luna (Cuba) and guests Teatro Mella, 8:30pm Concert Vivaldi siglo xxi. Sinfonity (España) Teatro Miramar, 2:30pm-5:30pm Clase magistral de Leo Brouwer Kcho Estudio Romerillo. Laboratorio para el Arte, 5:30pm Exposición Praga, ciudad de la música Photos: Jiří Všetečka Sunday, Oct 5 Teatro Mella, 5pm Concert Del medioevo al danzón Horacio Franco, Victor Flores and Santiago Álvarez (Mexico) contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 10 Produced by .com Monday, Oct 6 Friday, Oct 10 Teatro Martí, 8:30pm Concert De Praga a La Habana ArteMiss Trio y Pavel Steidl (Czech Rep.), Niurka González, Gretchen Labrada and Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana (Cuba), Leo Brouwer Cine Charles Chaplin, 5pm Presentación del documental Festival Leo Brouwer, sus raíces de Joel Ramírez Teatro Mella, 8:30 pm Alas Ballet Lizt Alfonso Tuesday, Oct 7 Teatro Martí, 8:30pm Concert Jenny Q Chai & Friends Jenny Q Chai (US), Niurka González and Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana (Cuba) and guests Saturday, Oct 11 Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís, 6pm Concert El amor en el baile. Inéditos pianísticos cubanos del s.xix Liana Fernández, Lianne Vega, Milagros de los Ángeles Soto, Lisa María Blanco and Gabriela Pineda (Cuba), Josué Tacoronte (Cuba-Mexico), Wednesday, Oct 8 Teatro Martí, 8:30pm Concert Tras las huellas de Mangoré Berta Rojas (Paraguay), Arístides Porto (Cuba), Ricardo Gallén (Spain), Josué Tacoronte (CubaMexico), Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana (Cuba) and guests Thursday, Oct 9 Teatro Martí, 8:30pm Concert El arco y la lira Carlos Prieto (Mexico), Yo-Yo Ma (US), Ricardo Gallén (España), Brasil Guitar Duo (Brazil) Sunday, Oct 12 Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís, 10am Cello Plus (el cello más largo) Professional cellists and students of the instrument throughout the Island will play the longest cello Teatro Martí, 8:30pm Concert Las cartas de Julieta Cuarteto Latinoamericano (Mexico), González and Augusto Enríquez (Cuba) Niurka Centro Cultural El Sauce, 7pm-2am Noche Blanca de la Trova For more information:www.festivaleobrouwer.com El Ciervo Encantado, 11am Musica electroacústica: 50 años del primer concierto en Cuba Quinteto de Viento Nueva Camerata, Ricardo Martínez and Victor Piverno (Cuba) Teatro Karl Marx, 5pm Concert de los ancestros Leo Brouwer, Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana, Chucho Valdés, , Cuarteto Presto, Rodney Barreto, Gastón Joya, Yaroldy Abreu, Dreiser Durruthy and Reinaldo Melián (Cuba), Ricardo Gallén (Spain) Casas de la Música de Miramar and Habana 10pm6am Noche Blanca del Son (homenaje a Juan Formell) contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 11 Produced by .com Tío Vania Argos teatro photo by Alex Mene The Theater in Cuba: past and present by Margaret Atkins Theatre in Cuba is often seen as the poor relation of Cuban arts and culture. There has been no equivalent of Buena Vista Social Club, Los Van Van or Carlos Acosta that has been able to take the world by storm. Overly dramatic, impenetrable to understand, (without impeccable Spanish), and a mixed bag of facilities, leave many to bypass or simply never find what it has to offer. Understandable as this sentiment may be there is a lot to miss – from the flamboyant to the introspective, avant-garde to the classical – performing arts in Cuba offers not just some brilliant acting and direction, but an insight into both contemporary and historical Cuba with a style and an edge which is puro Cubano. Havana, as one single example, puts on shows for all tastes, from classical theater, often staged by the Hubert de Blanck Company, to the experimental, avant-garde theater of the Teatro el Público or the Argos Teatro. Frequently, foreign plays are recontextualized to fit the Cuban reality. There are Cuban playwrights who debut in theaters all over the Island and their work is many times translated to film, such as, for example, Lester Hamlet’s Casa vieja¸ based on the classical Cuban play of the same name by Abelardo Estorino; or Ernesto Daranas’ Los dioses rotos based on Carlos Felipe Hernández’ play, Réquiem por Yarini. I admit that I miss theater “of days gone by,” something that may be close to extinction in this day and age of modernization and adaptation. Will my kids be moved to tears by Romeo and Juliet? I’m not sure. Maybe I have fallen behind the spirit of modern times. Or perhaps, hopefully, we shall be able to take one of those trips into the past very shortly. There are theater companies in every province of Cuba, both for adults and children. Even some of the more remote towns have produced important groups such as the Teatro de los Elementos in Cumanayagua, Cienfuegos. In Cuba, the Camagüey and Havana Theater Festivals are the most important of the theatrical events. Both Cuban and foreign theater companies put on emblematic plays and premieres but they also bring together actors, playwrights and critics in order to examine the activity of artists on the Island. The festivals are great celebrations that beckon huge crowds into the theaters. It is impossible to speak of Cuban theater without going over some of its history. Back in preColumbian Cuba, areitos were magical-religious ceremonies that expressed aboriginal Cuban culture, mixing singing, dancing, oral traditions and pantomime. As the aboriginal communities disappeared, the areitos also vanished and the Spanish occupation brought with it their Corpus Christi festivities that consisted of religious dramas accompanied by dance and song. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 12 Produced by .com Gotas de Agua sobre Piedras Calientes Teatro el público photo by Y. monte Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda was another Romantic playwright who left Cuban literature a treasure trove of twenty works for the stage (tragedies, comedies, dramas, adaptations and one-act plays). And National Hero José Martí was also a Romantic; his dramatic oeuvre is not extensive within the huge body of his literary output but it does begin to announce the arrival of Modernism in Hispano-American arts and letters. After the creation of the Republic, vernacular theater attracted huge audiences. The opéra bouffe, as started by Covarrubias, developed and gave rise to new characters such as the gallego and the mulata who joined the negrito to form a trio that still makes its appearance nowadays on stage. They lampoon reality with laughter. Vernacular theater used music as an essential element and many of the numbers that were performed went on to become popular songs outside of the context of the plays. Even though this type of theater started to die out after 1959, its characteristics still influence Cuban drama to a large degree. Today’s strong comedy movement has inherited much from it and it enjoys its own institutions and events, the most important of which is the Aquelarre Humor Festival. Between 1730 and 1733 the first theatrical work in Cuba made its appearance and on January 20, 1775, El Coliseo, the first theater on the Island was born. From 1800 onwards, temporary theaters began to appear, many of them in simple sheds covered with awnings. But just a few years later on February 28, 1838 the people of Havana had a new theater that was described as one of the best in the world: the Tacón Theater, today, the beautiful García Lorca. From early days, there were popular characters, talkative and sarcastic, who would deliver social criticism and the joking around that was characteristic of the nineteenth century opéra bouffe. Francisco Covarrubias was the actor and playwright dubbed the founder of the national Cuban theater; he adapted short popular Spanish plays, sainetes (one-act farces), to conditions and personages in Cuba, using popular language and creating the figure of the negrito. There was also more “serious” theater during the Republican Era. It was less popular and had a smaller following and less government funding. Besides, it had to compete with the vernacular theater and the attractions of movies and that new invention of television. Frequently ,it would be financed by the actors and playwrights themselves who would have to earn the money by doing all kinds of other jobs and live on the brink of poverty. This was the case of Virgilio Piñeira, playwright and creator of very Cuban characters and situations that went beyond the superficiality of vernacular theater in the overwhelming milieu of a country that apparently had no solutions. The triumph of the Revolution brought huge Tío Vania Argos teatro photo by Alex Mene The nineteenth century also belongs to Romantic Cuban theater with its precursor the successful poet and playwright José Jacinto Milanés who committed suicide after twenty years of madness caused, so they say, by his forbidden love for his cousin. His life was as romantic as his work. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 13 Produced by .com Antigonon teatro el publico photo by Ana Lorena changes to the stage. In the wave of optimistic euphoria, under the auspices of a State that supported culture, new groups and theaters were created and the work of directors, playwrights and actors received hitherto unheard of social acknowledgement. The Teatro Nacional de Guiñol (National Puppet Theater), created before 1959 by the Camejo Carril brothers, expanded into all the provinces. Each province now has a theater dedicated to puppetry and child audiences. Teatro Estudio was an extraordinary group started up by the brother and sister team of Vicente and Raquel Revuelta. It premiered important contemporary plays and enjoyed both critical and public success throughout its existence. The history of post-1959 theater went through a “dark age’ in the 1970s. This was an intolerant and unfair period for Cuban cultural policy, generating censorship, breaking up companies, firing staff and generally receiving the name of the “grey decade.” However, the storm subsided and even though it left scars, the theater soldiered on. Successive graduations from the National Theater School and the Higher Institute of the Arts brought advances. By the 1980s, another important group was born, Teatro Buendia, directed by Flora Lautens. It espoused experimentation and the search among our Caribbean roots. Then the 1990s brought the Special Period and many theaters were forced to close down again in a reaction to the country’s precarious economy. In the midst of all this, two companies appeared on the scene: the controversial Teatro El Público, and Argos Teatro, the latter proving to be the most solid theatrical company in terms of repertoire and trajectory. And then there was Teatro de la Luna. Closer to our days, filmmaker Juan Carlos Cremata’s project called La Carreta never tires of scratching the surface of life until it hurts. And the list of companies goes on and on. Nowadays, theater abounds in Havana and all over Cuba. Sometimes it is successful and sometimes it is not so successful but the playwrights and directors are searching for the right path. Try leaving a tiny space in your schedule when you visit Cuba and come to the theater. You may well be surprised and it is certainly one more way of getting to know Cuba. Teatro el Público photo by Y. Monte contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 14 Produced by .com Festival de Teatro de Camagüey October 4-11, 2014 Casablanca Movie Theater, Camagüey Camagüey’s 2014 Theatre Festival by Victoria Alcalá Every two years, the lovely city of Camagüey, which recently commemorated 500 years since it was founded, gauges current Cuban theater. Fourteen previous editions validate the National Theater Festival held in the ancient colonial city of Puerto Principe as the most outstanding stage for Cuban theater arts and as the most important national encounter of its kind. A decision was taken in 2012 to eliminate the competitive nature of the Festival, complete with the awarding of prizes. This gave rise to different opinions: some believe it could take interest away from participation and also shortchange a sector that lacks recognition. Others think that there is less tension in the air when you remove the rivalry. What is certain is that the generous presence of groups from various provinces belies the dropping off of interest since the mere fact of being selected from amongst the proposals received by the organizers constitutes a kind of prize in itself. with present-day issues and others that venture into an interesting symbiosis of genres and language. Dozens of productions have been announced from 28 Cuban companies hailing from 12 provinces; such a truly national stamp has been one of the most important gains of the Camagüey festival. Surpassed only by Havana, there has been a healthy infrastructure put together in order to stage work produced from September 2012 to June 2014. Facilities have been expertly set up, some of them by the actors of the companies themselves, as in the case of Teatro del Viento. City squares will also provide excellent stages thereby taking dramatic representations back to earlier times. Rascacielos photo by Alex Mene This year as we remember the 200th anniversary of the birth of the playwright and poet from Camagüey Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda, the festival has taken on a meaningful theme: Theater: memory, feelings and transfers. The plays, which revolve around this slogan, have been organized in different sections, so that audience may enjoy productions that established guidelines in prior editions and continue to be part of the repertoires of emblematic groups, along with plays that deal contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 15 Produced by .com Festival Elsinor photo by J.Calcagno Far beyond the essential material conditions, the well-versed, educated and soberly hospitable audiences of Camagüey will surely be among the true prizes for artistic prowess among the selected participants. Groups from Pinar del Río, Artemisa, La Habana, Isla de la Juventud, Matanzas, Cienfuegos, Villa Clara, Ciego de Ávila, Camagüey, Las Tunas, Granma and Santiago de Cuba will add a glow to the festival, which will also feature the performance of the popular young singer Luna Manzanares, as well as the opening of four exhibitions dealing with the festival’s curatorial concept. The venue for the theoretical event will be the recently refurbished Casablanca Movie Theater on “the street of movie theaters” that came to life during the inspiring celebrations marking the 500 years of the city. A special feature will be a seminar given by the French theoretician JeanFrédéric Chevallier who will stage his plays as tools for the construction and interpretation of contemporary theater. As usual, there will be colloquiums, meetings with critics, a roundtable with international theatrical programmers, dramaturgy pitching aimed at new Cuban playwrights, book launchings by the Tablas Alarcos press, the presentation of the Conjunto magazine and the Report of the 14th Festival (2013), and an International Marionette Union (Unima) forum. PROGRAM Performances in theaters Teatro de la Academia de las Artes Vicentina de la Torre Gris / Teatro Tuyo Oct 4-5, 2:30pm/5pm Oct 9-11, 5pm Contigo pan y cebolla / Teatro Pinos Nuevos Sala Teatral Teatro Oct 6-9, Jardín de estrellas / Compañía Teatral La Andariega 5 pm Teatro del Viento Oct 4, 9pm Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer / Proyecto Mujeres Fuente de Creación Oct 5, 5pm Oct 8, 9pm Delantal todo sucio de huevos / Teatro D’Dos Oct 9, 5pm/9pm Oct 10, 9pm Burundanga / Teatro de Las Estaciones Oct 11, 5pm contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 16 Produced by .com Sala Teatro José Luis Tassende Oct 4-5, 9 pm El millonario y la maleta / Teatro del Viento Oct 6-7, 9 pm Mundo de muertos / Estudio Teatral Macubá Oct 9-11, 9 pm Fíchenla si pueden / Argos Teatro Teatro Avellaneda Oct 4 y 5, 9 Oct 9-11, 9 pm pm Cuba y la noche / Estudio Teatral de Santa Clara Semen / Teatro El Portazo Teatro Principal Oct 4-5, 9 Oct 6, 9 Oct 7, pm pm 9 pm Oct 8, 9 pm 9 pm Oct 11, 5 pm Oct 9-10, Delirio Habanero / Teatro de la Luna Sab / Ballet Folklórico de Camagüey Concierto de Luna Manzanares Tu noche con Kike / Kike Quiñones Rascacielos / Teatro El Público Sala Espacio Interior Oct 4-6, 9 pm Oct 8-10, 9 pm Aleja a tus hijos del alcohol / Teatro El Público La panza del caimán / Teatro del Espacio Interior Café Teatro 15 Festival de Teatro Oct 6-7,10:30pm Kafé verde pero dulce / Proyectos varios Oct 8-10,10:30pm Mujeres de la luna / Teatro de la Luna Performances for kids Teatro Guiñol de Camagüey Oct 4-5, 2:30pm/5pm Oct 6-7, 2:30pm/5pm Oct 8-9, 2:30pm/5pm Festival Elsinor photo by Alex Mene Oct 10, 2:30pm/5pm El gato simple / Guiñol de Remedios El gato con botas / Guiñol de Camagüey Aventuras en pueblo chiflado / Los Cuenteros Alicia en busca del conejo blanco / Teatro de Las Estaciones Sala Teatro José Luis Tassende Oct 4-5, 9 pm El millonario y la maleta / Teatro del Viento Oct 6-7, 9 pm Mundo de muertos / Estudio Teatral Macubá Oct 9-11, 9 pm Fíchenla si pueden / Argos Teatro contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 17 Produced by .com Teatro La Edad de Oro Los pintores / Teatro Escambray Oct 4-5, 2:30pm/5pm Oct 6, 5pm La muchachita del mar / Teatro de Títeres Retablos Oct 7-8, 2:30pm/5pm Oct 9, 5pm Oct 10, 2:30pm/5pm; Se durmió en los laureles / Teatro Papalote Oct 11, 10:30am/3pm Performances in plazas Plaza del Gallo Oct 4, 6 pm ¡Ay, Margarita! / Teatro Andante Oct 6, 6 pm En busca de una antigua ilusión / Teatro Tecma Plaza del Carmen Teatro Espontaneo photo by Y. Monte Oct 5, 6 pm ¡Ay, Margarita! / Teatro Andante Oct 7, 6 pm En busca de una antigua ilusión / Teatro Tecma Plaza Joaquín de Agüero Oct 6, 6 pm ¡Ay, Margarita! / Teatro Andante Oct 8, 6 pm En busca de una antigua ilusión / Teatro Tecma Plaza de los Trabajadores Oct 8, 6pm Troya / D’Morón Teatro Avenida de la Caridad Oct 9, 6pm Troya / D’Morón Teatro Plaza Joaquín de Agüero Oct 10, 6pm Troya / D’Morón Teatro Plaza del Carmen Oct 11, 6pm Troya / D’Morón Teatro contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 18 Produced by .com Theoretical program Multicine Casablanca Oct 4, 9:30pm Gertruids Gómez de Avellaneda – Back in her kingdom Oct 5, 9:30pm Theater management Oct 6, 9:30pm Dramaturgy pitching Oct 6, 12 Presentations by Tablas Alarcos Oct 6, 2 noon pm Seminar: How did I stage my productions? / Jean-Frédéric Chevallier Oct 7, 9:30pm Colloquium on Criticism I Oct 7, 12 Presentations by Tablas Alarcos Oct 7, 2 noon pm Oct 8, 9:30 Oct 8, 12 Oct 8, 2 Seminar: How did I stage my productions? / Jean-Frédéric Chevallier pm noon pm Oct 9, 9:30 Oct 9, 12 One island, one theater Presentations by Tablas Alarcos Seminar: How did I stage my productions? / Jean-Frédéric Chevallier pm noon UNIMA Forum Presentations by Tablas Alarcos Oct 10, 9:30pm Colloquium on Criticism II Oct 10, 12 Presentations by Tablas Alarcos noon photo by Ana Lorena contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 19 Produced by .com photo by Y. Monte Carlos Díaz Renowned director of Teatro El Público by Margaret Atkins Carlos Diaz, the renowned director of the Teatro El Público theater company, wanted to be an actor since he was a child. Back in his younger days when he was in school plays, he was already aware of the need for order, timing and placement in every scene. His journey towards stage direction had begun. Diaz first founded the Teatro Ensayo de Bejucal theater company in his hometown and went on to study theater at the University of the Arts (ISA) where his passion to direct grew even more. At the time, however, there were no academic training programs for directors in Cuba. After graduation, he worked as theater consultant and assistant director for Roberto Blanco and the Teatro Irrumpe Company where he did everything but direct. A second job as artistic director and general consultant for the Ballet Teatro de La Habana gave way to a chance to produce three plays a year for the National Theatre. His first three productions, A Streetcar Named Desire, Tea and Sympathy and Glass Menagerie were billed as the North American Theater Trilogy. This was the origin of what would one day become Teatro El Público. Now, as a famous director, Carlos is unassuming, calm, friendly as he meets us at the Trianón Theater, the home of his company since the 1990s. This former movie theatre was also the home of the National Symphony Orchestra during the early years of the Special Period. We find him preparing tests for fourth year students of the National Theater School. Alongside his teaching responsibilities, he produces a play every year with undergraduates who will soon take charge of Cuban theater. Some of his most talented students, he hopes, will go on to join the ranks of Teatro El Público. “I believe,” he confides, “that you have to draw on the youth. I recall a time when an 18-year-old character was played by a 40-year-old actress. I believe that you should give 18-year-olds the chance to show off their age on stage.” For Carlos, the most important thing in theater is communicating with his audience. He believes that theatrical art should entertain the public: “I prepare a play like if I were preparing a party,” he says. And truth be told, there’s no shortage of guests at Carlos’ “parties.” The Teatro El Público has worked hard to win its own public. “People come here and don’t know what they’ll see, but they have a pretty good idea of what will happen,” contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 20 Produced by .com says the director who, instead of success, prefers to talk about communication. He loves packed houses and attributes the long lines outside of the theatre to his carefully chosen repertoire and consistent style of work. We might also add that his provocative, inordinate, irreverent, unconventional and sensual way of dealing with the key topics of double standards, intolerance, spirituality and sexuality in everyday life of Cubans today has a lot to do with his success as well. A tireless worker, Carlos brings a swift pace to his band of merry men and women, and his success is marked on the plaques that line the façade of the Trianón that boast 100 performances of different plays produced by the Teatro El Público troupe and its director. Some of the most successful include La Celestina, The Twelfth Night, The Crucible, Caligula and Antigonón, un continente épico. A lover and admirer of the cinema, Carlos has had close encounters with a number of film directors. Both Fernando Pérez and Gerardo Chijona have requested his assistance in several film productions, but the theater is his passion. “The idea of not doing theater makes me feel terribly unhappy, he says.” Who is Carlos Díaz? The answer is simple: he is “a very happy man who asks very little of life, only the possibility of going every day to the theater, who strives to be humble, who has been very much loved and has loved immensely, and whose major responsibility is to never stop doing theater.” Make sure to catch one of his critically-acclaimed productions with the Teatro El Publico. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 21 Produced by .com Carlos Diaz’s provocatively brilliant Antigon by Victoria Alcalá photo by Ana Lorena Carlos Diaz and his troupe, Teatro el Publico’s most recent performance involved a trip back to the classics, guided and partnered by Rogelio Orizondo who wrote Antigonón, un contingente épico especially for them. Carlos is the most wellknown and brilliant Cuban theatre director with a reputation for directing plays with abundant nudity, transvestites and subtle winks at the Cuban national reality. So perhaps the audience for Contingente Épico Antigonón was somewhat surprised when this play opened with two poems by Jose Marti*: “I dream of cloisters of marble’ and the wrenching ‘The Swiss Father’. Using the cover of tragedy and the myth of Antigone**, the play deals with highly charged subjects such as the younger generation of Cubans’ relationship with history and their country’s past, with heroes who have become caricatures and are manipulated by opportunists and simulators until they become statues. The structure is complicated, based on monologues. The staging is splendid and demands the maximum effort from the actors and the brilliant guest dancer Abel Berenguer (of Danza Abierta). With Teatro El Publico’s customary vision stripping away everything that is sacred and its desire for subversion (a wrenching image of Mariana Grajales, head shaved and naked, shouting her truth in the voice and person of the actress Linnet Hernandez who has made a return to the stage in this play), Teatro el Público firmly plants us in front of those who could represent the new heroes, those who will vindicate (or bury, that is another possibility) the others, facing today’s Cubans and their day-to-day epic. At moments, the tragedy hints at slapstick, picaresque attitudes, “everyday obscenities” in these characters who are faced with their destiny, these heroes who assumed their role in that Homeland that belongs to nobody and is the product of everybody. The finale, as in the classical tragedy, is cathartic. When Panchito Gómez Toro, the young son of the Dominican general Máximo Gómez, learns of the death in battle of General Antonio Maceo, he runs to die at his side and has the presence of mind to write his farewell: “Dearest Mother, Papa; dear brothers: I die at my post, I did not wish to abandon the corpse of General Maceo and I stayed with him. I have received two wounds and I am taking my life in order to not fall into enemy hands. I do this with great pride for the honor of Cuba”. Antigone, yet again, does not abandon her dead. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 22 Produced by .com * “I dream of cloisters of marble” (They say your children drink / Their own blood in the poisonous goblets / Of their owners! / That they speak the rotten language / Of their ruffians! That they eat / together the bread of shame / at the bloodied table! / That they lose in useless tongue / The final fire!...) “The Swiss Father” who murdered his young children and then committed suicide (Sublime father, incomparable spirit, / Who to spare the delicate shoulders / of his sons the heavy burden / of a life without faith, without country, / a joyless life without clear course or certain goal, / On his own colossal shoulders took / The terrible burden of his savage crime!) ** Antigone is the daughter of Aedipus and Jocasta, who sees her brothers die, one killing the other fighting on opposite sides in a war for power; she ignores the edict forbidding burial for her brother Polyneices who was considered to be a traitor to the country and finally hangs herself to avoid her punishment. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 23 Produced by .com photo by Y. Monte Piñera’s Aire frío in Contemporary Cuba by Victoria Alcalá On occasion of the centenary in 2012 of the Cuban poet, playwright and narrator Virgilio Piñera, Mayo Teatral, theatrical festival organized by Casa de las Americas, decided to pay tribute to Piñera with the inclusion of several of his plays in the event’s program. Carlos Celdran director de Argos teatro photo by Y. Monte Perhaps Electra Garrigó, written in 1941 and first performed in 1948 by the Prometeo theater troupe, may be one of his best plays, but was met at the time with so little enthusiasm that the author branded his critics as “unsuccessful artists” and “uneducated Philistines.” In that same year, 1948, he had written Falsa alarma, considered a pioneer of the theater of the absurd, being written two years before Eugène Ionesco’s The Bald Prima Donna (1950). Aire frío was written in 1958, published in 1959 and performed for the first time in 1962 with a favorable reception from audiences and critics. Carlos Celdrán, director of Argos Teatro, has confessed: “My first reaction when I reread Aire frío was not to produce it. I was overwhelmed. Virgilio Piñera’s family biography, the picture of his time (the Republic), the devastating passage of time, the Absurd and the progressive repetition of daily events demanded a monumental scenic construction—excessive for my current purposes.” However, Celdrán chose to accept the challenge foreseeing the impressive simplicity of the contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 24 Produced by .com dramatic structure and the ability to express the inner world of a Cuban family in any period— including today—harassed by poverty and the anguish of a bitter survival. In a simple and single setting that represents the modest living room of a home, the family drama (which was in part the author’s own drama) unfolds and is intensified as time marches on. There is no advancement for the Romaguera family. Oscar, the poet son, only wishes to write and publish. He travels to Buenos Aires but fails to settle there and returns home. Angel, the father, is losing his eyesight. This is the symbolic blindness of the person who cannot see but doesn’t “want” to see either. Ana, the mother, endures hardships and humiliations and becomes increasingly ill day by day. Henry, the successful son, lives comfortably with the family that he has founded, visits his parents and siblings out of habit, but only thinks of himself. Luis, who lives in New York, has gone deaf. Luz Marina, the protagonist, the only daughter and the family’s sole breadwinner, lives in despair. Her profound anguish envisions no future and harbors the grisly emptiness of impotence. And the heat—an omnipresent character in the play and in the stage production—overwhelms, exhausts, suffocates, kills... Celdrán has assured that going over these issues in the current context was for him a “cathartic exorcism” because this “cascade to the abyss” has allowed him to feel the sting of pain in the style of Virgilio of making theater under strong, lucid sarcasm, and he has emphasized the substance of the great Cuban playwright, being able to face the harshest reality with absurdity, which is so common, that it may go unnoticed. Founded in 1996, the Argos Teatro Company successfully revisited Piñera’s play supported by the remarkable performance of the young actress Yuliet Cruz in the role of Luz Marina—organic, intense, providing contemporariness to her character, evident in her manners, the way she moves and the way she speaks. Cruz hides her exotic beauty and gives a laudable representation. Meanwhile, veteran Francisco García proves the validity of the National Theater Award which he was granted in 2012 in his portrayal of the father, who goes convincingly from euphoria to sadness, from cynicism to tenderness, from haughtiness to helplessness. Yuliet Cruz Argos teatro photo by Y. Monte contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 25 Produced by .com Visual Arts Las otras narraciones: una década de animación independiente Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam, Through Oct 18 As part of the 6th Salón of Cuban Contemporary Art, this exhibition explores a decade of the work of 50 Cuban artists involved in animation films through TV spots, messages for the public, cartoons, music videos, installations, videogames, visual experimentation, interactive works and mapping. Hacia el poeta Lloyd’s Register (Calle B #310, e/ 13 y 15, Vedado) Throughout October The Spanish artist Mariví Nebreda reinterprets the work of great Spanish-speaking poets . La utilidad de la historia Factoría Habana, Throughout October The curatorial project, which includes the particpation of Abel Barroso, Celia y Yunior, Arianna Contino, Rigoberto Díaz, Ricardo Elías, Alex Hernández, José Manuel Mesías, Frank Mujica, Fernando Reyna, Lázaro Saavedra and José Ángel Toirac, takes as its starting point the creative processes and historical research that sometimes become artistic events. The project includes works by a group of young artists who prioritize research and the use of documents linked to the final result, as well as artists from the 1980s and 90s, representing the generations that have influenced the newer generations in their way of understanding art. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 26 Produced by .com Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Universal Through Oct 27 Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura African-American Artists & Abstraction. Thirty-eight works by nine African-American artists make up this selection, which was curated by Nanette Carter, Melvin Edwards and Ben Jones. The exhibition is dedicated to the memory of the African-American poet and artist Jayne Cortez. Opens Oct 24 Japón: reino de personajes. Exhibition of anime and manga characters as an essential part modern popular culture. Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño La intención como otro nivel de conciencia. Andy Rodríguez takes a look at everyday life by way of irony and parody, critically interpreting contemporary reality through characters and settings that caricature reality. Through Oct 17 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano Through Oct 13 Cundo Bermúdez: pasión y lucidez. With this selection of 25 pieces from 1940 and 1964, the National Museum of Fine Arts has organized, for the first time, a solo exhibition of one of the leading artists of the so-called School of Havana and of the second Cuban artistic avant-garde, who, according to Roberto Cobas Amate, curator of the exhibition, “deserves that both critics and the public recognize the validity and strength of his art.” Opens Oct 4 First solo exhibition by the young Cuban designer Edel “Mola” Rodriguez, consisting of a selection of drawings, illustrations and interventions in space. Fábrica de Arte Cubano Pintura en acción. Exhibition by Eduardo Roca (Choco). Galería Centro Cultural Fresa y Chocolate Throughout Interludio. Exhibition of works by October students and teachers of the San Alejandro National Academy of Fine Arts, which touch on elements related to music, dedicated to Cuban composer Leo Brouwer’s 75th birthday. Casa de Asia Opens Oct 15 Olvídate de todo y pinta. Watercolors and ink on cardboard by César Towie, who uses Havana’s architecture as an object of meditation to induce concentration, introspection and reflection in pieces featuring the traditional format in which kakemonos were made in Japan, or the hanging scrolls of China. Galería El Reino de Este Mundo. Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Through Oct 8 Universos de Girona. Drawings, oil paintings, watercolors, inks and gouaches by one of the most original Cuban artists of of the 20th century: Julio Girona (1914-2002), whose work, forever young and restless, goes from art informel through figuration to abstract expressionism are exhibited all month on occasion of the centenary of his birth. Casa Oswaldo Guayasamín Opens Oct 2 Hay un presagio en el aire Sculptures and installations made of plaster, stone, rope and fiberglass by Tomás Oliva Agüero, with a theme visited by the 20thcentury avant-garde—the toilet— to represent fear, anguish, surprise and shock. Revelaciones. Exhibit of varios phases in the rich and diverse artistic production of Nelson Domínguez, especially emphasizing the period from 2010 to 2014. Mascaradas. Exhibition by the Italian artist Alfredo Cannatello. Through Oct 12 Biblioteca Pública Rubén Martínez Villena Opens Oct 9 Convento de San Francisco de Asís Galería Habana Through Oct 24 Un día cualquiera. Felipe Dulzaides, essential figure in Cuban photography, video art, installation and public art, explores everyday commonplaces. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 27 Produced by .com photography Nosotros los de abajo Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño, Throughout October The Mexican photographer Pablo Méndez makes use of events that made the headlines in the Novedades newspaper to assemble a discourse on Mexican social issues and their spiraling violence. Casa Oswaldo Guayasamín Through Oct 13 Fototeca de Cuba Silencio roto. In the 16 black and white pictures by Annia Leyva and Aníbal de la Torre, the human figure is combined in the forefront with objects associated with everyday life. Throughout xl´2. Focused on the concern of October young artists in relation to the meaning of communication in everyday life, this exhibition, which is part of the 6th Salon of Cuban Art, deals with the impact of alternative forms in information flow in Cuba. Fábrica de Arte Cubano Through Oct 25 Out of the Blue. Photographs inspoired by Maestro David Gilmour’s guitar solos. Palacio de Lombillo Through Oct 13 Breakfast in Havana. The different poetics of Ridel Calero and Armando Zambrana meet in their realistic look of Havana, its people, its environment and its symbols. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 28 Produced by .com dance Alas Mascarada Ballet Lizt Alfonso, Teatro Mella, Fri 10, 17 & 24; Sat 11, 18 & 25, 8:30pm, Sun 12, 19 & 26, 5pm Danza-Teatro Retazos and Grupo Gigantería Sat, Oct 4, 4:30pm, Jardines del Teatro Martí Alas, a hymn to the spirituality of humankind, pays tribute to the distinguished Spanish flamenco dancer Antonio Gades on the 10th anniversary of his death. Everyone is welcome to come with their own masks to this concert/performance and be part of the show! contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 29 Produced by .com Ballet XXIV Festival Internacional de Ballet de La Habana October 28-November 7, Mella, Karl Marx and Nacional theaters Presided over since 1960 by the legendary Alicia Alonso, the International Havana Ballet Festival brings together outstanding international ballet stars, companies and celebrities of the ballet world, as well as critics and entrepreneurs alongside the Cuban National Ballet. More than 200 world premieres to its name and over a thousand guests attest to the significance of the Havana Ballet Festivals in the world of dance. The festival, which is not competitive, focuses on the fraternal meeting of ballet artists from all over the world. 2014 Preview This year’s festival will be dedicated to the 450th anniversary of the birth of William Shakespeare. The Ballet Nacional de Cuba will perfom several ballets based on his plays, such as Shakespeare y sus máscaras and Prólogo para una tragedia. The Ópera de Nice, which has been especially invited to this year’s festival, will dance La pavana del moro, also based on Shakespeare’s work. The ballet Tula, choreographed by Alicia Alonso, will commemorate the 250th anniversary of the 18th-century cuban Cuban playwright and poet Gertrudis Gómez de Avellaneda. Other classical and well-known ballets choreographed by Alonso will be presented: Sleeping Beauty, Swan Lake, Giselle and La magia de la danza (The Magic of Dancing). The latter is an anthology of scenes from several classical ballets together with The Gottschalk Symphony, choreographed by Alicia Alonso. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 30 Produced by .com MUSIC Contemporary Fusion Club Habana Party Photo Alex Mene The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has expanded recently as new bars and clubs have opened party promoters have organized events in parks and public spaces. Good live music venues include Bertolt Brecht (Wed: Interactivo, Sunday: Déjá-vu) and El Sauce (check out the Sunday afternoon Máquina de la Melancolía) as well as the newly opened Fábrica de Arte Cubano which has concerts most nights Thursday through Sunday as well as impromptu smaller performances inside. In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the always popular Don Cangreco featuring good live music (Kelvis Ochoas and David Torrens alternate Fridays), Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and El Palio and Melem bar—both featuring different singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues. Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional Fresa y Chocolate Mondays Manana Club 11 pm Thursdays 10 pm Arnaldo Rodríguez y su Talismán 5 pm Wednesdays Qva Libre 5 pm Thursdays Elaín Morales Sat & Sun Cover bands Los Kents 9 pm Mucho Ruido Tercera y 8 10 pm 5 pm Soul Train, a show of soul music Sundays, Café Concert El Sauce Sundays Every other Friday Submarino Amarillo Charanga Latina 5 pm Thursdays Havana Hard Rock 10 pm 5 pm Fridays Aceituna Sin Hueso Sundays Mondays La Máquina de la Melancolía, with Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García Baby Lores 11 pm contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 31 Produced by .com Maikel Blanco Photo by Alex Mene y su Salsa mayor October 6, 8pm Teatro Mella Salsa / Timba Casa de la Música Habana Tuesdays 5 pm Caribe Girls Casa de la Música de Miramar 5 pm 11 pm Mondays Habana C Sur Caribe Wednesdays 5 pm El Noro y 1ra Clase 11 pm NG La Banda Tuesdays 5 pm Habana D’Primera 11 pm Pedrito Calvo y La Justicia Thursdays 5 pm Pupy y los que Son Son 11 pm Charanga Latina Wednesdays 5 pm Juan Guillermo 11 pm Adalberto Alvarez y su Son Fridays 5 pm Azúcar Negra 11 pm Manolito y su Trabuco Thursdays 5 pm Manolito Simonet 11 pm Habana D’Primera Fridays 5 pm El Niño y La Verdad 11 pm NG La Banda Saturdays Piano Bar Tun Tun Thursdays 11 pm NG La Banda Fridays 5 pm Gens (pop-rock) Saturdays Sundays 5 pm Manana Club 11 pm Gens (pop-rock) 11 pm Electronic music Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional Mondays Manana Club 5 pm Tumbao Habana Saturdays 5 pm Bamboleo 11 pm Chispa y sus Cómplices Sundays Jardines del 1830 Fridays Azúcar Negra 10 pm 11 pm contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 32 Produced by .com MUSIC jazz Café Jazz Miramar Shows: 11 pm - 2am This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright—take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us. Jazz Café Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar. +53 (07) 209-2719 Shows: 10:30pm - 2am Mellow, sophisticated and freezing due to extreme air conditioning, the Jazz Café is not only an excellent place to hear some of Cuba’s top jazz musicians, but the open-plan design also provides for a good bar atmosphere if you want to chat. Less intimate than La Zorra y el Cuervo – located opposite Melia Cohiba Hotel. La Zorra y el Cuervo Shows: 10:30pm - 2am The ‘Fox & Crow’ offers an intimate environment in this basement venue notably marked by a red English telephone box at its entrance. Top jazz players perform here on a nightly basis. Dark, cramped, low ceilings and an absolute firetrap this has much more atmosphere of the gritty kind than the Jazz Café, which seems too pretty and sterile by comparison. Asociación Cubana de Derechos de Autor Musical Café Miramar Alexis Bosch (pianist) and Proyecto Jazz Cubano. Saturdays Oct 16 6 pm 6 pm (pianist UNEAC Casa de la Poesía Oct 17 10 pm Roberto Carcassés &composer) and his trio Jazz Poetry, with the group Polaroid and young poets from Havana. Oct 9 2 pm Peña La Esquina del Jazz hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 33 Produced by .com MUSIC Bolero, folklore, son & trova Asociación Yoruba de Cuba Saturdays Casa Simón Bolívar Los Ibellis (Folkloric group) 4 pm 6 pm Café cantante, Teatro Nacional Saturdays Centro Memorial Martin Luther King, Jr. Waldo Mendoza 4:30 pm El Jelengue de Areíto Café Concert El Sauce 10 pm Fridays Marta Campos Oct 16 4 pm Oct 7 & 28 Waldo Mendoza Oct 9 Plus Trova with Charly Salgado and guests. Mondays Frank Delgado Tuesdays Tanda de Guaracheros 5 pm Conjunto Chappotín 5 pm 11 pm Wednesdays Trovando, a meeting with good Casa de África Oct 3 Obba Ilú 2 pm Oct 4 Conjunto de Arsenio Rodríguez Rumberos de Cuba 5 pm Timbalaye Sundays Obiní Batá 5 pm Hotel Telégrafo Casa del Alba 6 pm Thurdays Fridays Síntesis 4 pm Oct 30 trova. 5 pm 4 pm Oct 11 5 pm Peña El Canto de Todos, with Vicente Feliú Ivette Cepeda. Fridays 9:30 pm Hurón Azul, UNEAC Casa de la Cultura Comunitaria Mirta Aguirre Oct 26 5 pm Mundito González. Oct 11 Get-together with trovador Ireno García. 10 pm Pabellón Cuba Casa de la Cultura de Plaza Oct 11 5 pm 7 pm Piano Bar Tun Tun (Casa de la Música de Miramar) Centro Cultural Habaneciendo Sundays Thursdays Fausto Durán and guests Centro Iberoamericano de la Décima Casa Memorial Salvador Allende 5 pm Peña La Juntamenta, with trovador Ángel Quintero. Casa de la Música Habana Sundays Yoruba Andabo 5 pm Peña with trovador Ray Fernández 5 pm 3 pm Oct 24 Peña Tres Tazas with trovador Silvio Alejandro Fridays Peña with Marta Campos. Oct 28 5 pm El Jardín de la Gorda with trovadors from every generation. Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura Oct 11 5 pm Abel Geronés, Wendy Besada and Wendy Vizcaíno contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 34 Produced by .com classical MUSIC Photo by Ivan Soca Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Oct 1 Concert with the Camerata Romeu. 11 am Oct 4 6 pm Oct 18 Premiere of works by Cuban composer Juan Piñera interpreted by the Promúsica duo, violist Anolan González and other renowned musicians. Concert with the Camerata Romeu. 6 pm Oct 25 Concert of works by Cuban composer Juan Piñera 6 pm Casa del ALBA Cultural Oct 5 En Confluencia, conducted by guitarists Eduardo and Galy Martín. 5 pm Oct 12 Tarde de Concierto, conducted by soprano Lucy Provedo. 5 pm Oct 19 De Nuestra América, conducted by pianist Alicia Perea. 5 pm Oct 26 Concert by guitarist Rosa Matos. 5 pm contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 35 Produced by .com Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura Oct 15 5 pm Oct 18 Concert Trova de Cámara, with version from Cuban Trova interpreted by Annie Garcés Santana, accompanied by a string ensemble from the Guillermo Tomás Conservatory. Lyrical gala directed by Pedro Arias Domínguez. 5 pm Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Oct 11 Concert with Ensemble Solistas de La Habana conducted by Iván Valiente. 4 pm Oct 18 Recital by saxophonist Javier Zalba and pianist María del Henar Navarro. 4 pm Museo Nacional de Bella Artes. Edificio de Arte Universal Oct 11 3 pm The Vocal Leo choir will sing Cuban and Latin American pieces and have invited the percussion group from the Guillermo Tomás Conservatory to their performance. Oratorio San Felipe Neri Oct 23 Concert by clarinetist Arístides Porto accompanied byu a chamber ensemble. 7 pm Oct 25 Piano recital by Lianne Vega who will play pieces by Beethoven, Liszt and Liget. 4 pm Oct 30 6 pm Presentation of the Polish soprano Dominika Zamara and the Mexian pianist Alejandro Barrañón. Sala Covarrubias, Teatro Nacional Sundays National Symphony Orchestra 5 pm Sala Gonzalo Roig. Palacio del Teatro Lírico Nacional Oct 26 Cuerda Dominical with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina. 5 pm Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano Oct 4 3 pm Directed by María Felicia Pérez Concert, the Exaudi Choir wuill sing religious songs from the Romantic period (Mendelssohn, Elgar, Saint Saëns and Gounod); contemporary pieces (Knut Nystedt [Norway], György Orbán [Hungary] and César Carrillo [Venezuela]; and Cuban, Argentinean and Venezuelan popular music. Oratorio San Felipe Neri Oct 5 Piano recital by Yadasny Portillo. 6 pm Oct 17 Concert with the Lyceum Mozartiano Chamber orchestra conducted by José Antonio Méndez. 6 pm Oct 19 6 pm The violinist Evelio Tieles qill play works by Mozart and Cuban composers Guillermo Tomás and Julián Orbón, with guests Iresis García Chao (violin), Roberto Herrera Díaz (viola) and Alejandro Rodríguez Tirado (cello). nothing compares to HAVANA page 36 Produced by contents .com Theatre Neurótica Anónima Directed by Joel Angelino, Opens in late October, Sala Adolfo Llauradó Authored and starred by renowned Cuban actress Mirtha Ibarra, the play is about an usher (Mirtha) of a movie theater that will be soon be demolished. She lives her life through the lives of the actresses in the movies she has seen—lives that are very different from the real life she leads in the company of a gay janitor and the projectionist who is in love with her but whom she despises, considering him not only mediocre but a coward. Cuentos del campamento Té-Atro / Directed by Elio Fidel López, Tue, Wed & Thurs, 6pm, Sala teatro de la Orden Tercera Aimed at the teenage public, the play deals with actual events that occurred during a “School goes to the countryside” program, related to the characters’ past, future and dreams. Caperucita Roja, el musical Joel Angleino Company / Directed by Joel Angelino, Oct 25, 8:30pm; Oct 26, 5pm, Teatro Mella The Spain-based Cuban actor Joel Angelino (Germán in Fresa y Chocolate) will premiere in Cuba his own musical version of the immortal story, which, in his own words, suggests “a dialogue among generations, tolerance towards differences and harmonious coexistence.” contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 37 Produced by .com Theatre Panorama desde el puente ViTal Teatro / Directed by Alejandro Palomino Fri, & Sat, 8:30pm; Sun, 5pm, Teatro Raquel Revuelta This play by Arthur Miller, adapted to the Cuban scene by Amado del Pino and Alejandro Palomino, addresses the conflict in a family descended from immigrants who decide to welcome into their home two young compatriots who want to restart their lives. Antigonón, un contingente épico Teatro El Público / Directed by Carlos Díaz Fri & Sat, 8:30pm; Sun, 5pm, Teatro Trianón Antigonón, un contingente épico, Carlos Diaz and his troupe, Teatro el Publico’s most recent performance involves a trip back to the classics, guided and partnered by Rogelio Orizondo who wrote Antigonón, un contingente épico especially for them. Carlos is the most well-known and brilliant Cuban theatre director with a reputation for directing plays with abundant nudity, transvestites and subtle winks at the Cuban national reality. Antigonón does not disappoint— go see it for yourself! The Phantom of the Opera Sat & Sun, 9pm, Anfiteatro de La Habana Vieja Alfonso Menéndez celebrates his 30th anniversary in show business with The Phantom of the Opera, the famous musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber. Menéndez is responsible for the script, Spanish version and production of the musical. The main roles will be interpreted by Maylú Hernández/ Marla Pileta as Christine; José Luis Pérez/Andrés Sánchez as The Phantom; and Rigoberto López/ Rogelio Rivas as Raoul, who will be accompanied by a cast of young singers, many of whom are newcomers to the stage. Also participating in the production are the Ballet de la Televisión Cubana and the Ballet de Bertha Casañas. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 38 Produced by .com For kids Burrerías Teatro La Proa, Oct 10 & 17, 3pm; Oct 11-12, 18-19, 11pm & 5pm, Teatro Nacional de Guiñol Through puppets, games and traditional songs, two puppeteer friends tell four classic stories: Historia de burros and El perro y el burro by René Fernández Santana; El Burro Caturro Perimpimplujo by Jesús del Castillo, and Platero y yo by Juan Ramón Jiménez. Muy Cubano... Cubanísimooo Circo Nacional de Cuba, Sat & Sun, 4pm & 7pm, Carpa Trompoloco Brand new circus show with exciting acts combined with the vernacular humor that the first circuses in Cuba were based on. The kids will love the clowns, the trained animals, the fire-eaters, as well as other highly skilled acts, such as aerial silk, tumbling and trampoline, juggling, acrobatics, and much more. La Colmenita Photo by Alex Mene contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 39 Produced by .com Teatro de Títeres El Arca Avenida del Puerto y calle Obrapía, Habana Vieja Funciones: viernes, sábados y domingos, 3 pm El Arca: Where new puppets are born by Margaret Atkins photos by Y. Monte Ever since an old popular song fixed in the memory of every Cuban the tragic death of Lola, a woman of questionable moral who was killed by her lover at 3pm, this hour in the afternoon would forever be dubbed “the time when Lola was killed.” Today, however, at least for the kids who live in Old Havana, this time of day has a completely different connotation—it’s puppet show time. “After the kids have played out in the sun in the nearby park, they come to El Arca and take refuge here,” says director Liliana Pérez Recio as she welcomes us to Teatro de Títeres El Arca—The Ark Puppet Theater—where in a lovely room the actors are rehearsing a puppet version of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. When we ask Liliana how El Arca came to be, she tells us about her student days at the Higher Institute of the Arts (ISA) when a group of students gathered round researcher, playwright and theater expert Freddy Artiles who devoted his career to the validation of the at times misunderstood art of puppetry; of the nearly ten years she spent with the Guiñol National, Cuba’s national Puppet Theater and of her relationship with Roberto Fernández, a director with a lengthy and fruitful stage career who was her teacher and friend. And of course, she tells us about Eusebio Leal, Historian of the City of Havana, heart and soul of the revitalization With a capacity for 64 spectators, El Arca is situated on the ground floor of Casa Pedroso, whose upper floors are home to the Office of the City Historian of Havana. Liliana takes us around the place, which includes the theater, the typical central courtyard of Cuban colonial homes, and the puppet museum. El Arca is located right across the Bay of Havana and the environment is the pretext for the name: El Arca (The Ark) the refuge where puppets come to life and where they travel from one show to another. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 40 Produced by .com project of Old Havana, who never forgot a project suggested to him by a group who wanted to set up a street puppet theater. “Several years had passed and you might think he wouldn’t remember, but one day we met here on the corner and Leal said, ‘What are you doing? Are you free? Come with me.’ He took me by the hand and showed me this place, recited some verses by Calderón de la Barca and asked me, ‘It’s a theater, isn’t it?’ And that’s how it all began,” Liliana tells us, clearly showing her emotion from knowing that her dream came true. From the very beginning, the project included a puppet museum. “I asked Eusebio,” Liliana recalls, “How can we have a museum if we don’t have a collection?” And he replied, “Don’t worry, we’ll have one somehow.” “But we have no money,” I said, “so where will we get the puppets?” “We’ll have one somehow,” he said again. Liliana’s eyes shine when she speaks of the City Historian. She can’t hide her respect and admiration for Leal. The adventure of traveling throughout the island knocking on the doors of puppet theaters everywhere in search of pieces for the museum began in 2008. “First we went to the provinces,” says the director of El Arca, “and told everyone that we were going to create a museum and that we wanted all the puppeteers and puppet troupes in the island to be represented in this museum.” It was neither a quick nor an easy task. Some groups that had been important in the history of puppetry in Cuba no longer existed and many pieces were in the hands of people who had already retired, or of family members who usually had no idea how to preserve them properly. “So, step by step, we began to create a Cuban collection,” and Liliana continues, “I believe that right now our collection has an acceptable level of representation, which reflects certain features that allow us to speak of Cuban puppetry. We owe our international collection to donations made by friends from Belgium, Africa, Spain, India, Brazil, Peru, Mexico. And while some puppets, for some reason or another, may not be extremely valuable as museum pieces, they have an educational value for us.” The idea is to have an interactive museum in which the children will be able to understand and learn the different puppetry techniques and to handle puppets. “Our aim is to make it fun,” assures Liliana. El Arca Theater opened with “Lilo’s Cat,” a shadow play. This technique was not common in Cuba and Liliana explains further: “Many people thought that El Arca was a theater for shadow plays and I always say, ‘No, El Arca is a laboratory, today it may be shadow plays and tomorrow something else.’” contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 41 Produced by .com And in justification of these words, she tells us about the premiere of The Musicians of Bremen and Brazos Caídos adapted both for paper theater, also called toy or model theater. This is the result of a paper theater workshop for children and adolescents who live in the Historic Center. Like many other institutions in the area, El Arca gives participation to the local community in the cultural process that is part of the revitalization and preservation program of Old Havana’s Historic Center. At the time of our interview, the company was preparing Sueño de una noche de verano based on William Shakespeare’s immortal A Midsummer Night’s Dream. This show has become a hard learning process especially for the less experienced actors who have had to work with rod puppets for the first time, in addition to the text by Shakespeare, quite different from the everyday language they are used to working with. Like the biblical Ark, El Arca is a refuge and a place of promise where new puppets are born to help populate the rich world of Cuban puppetry. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 42 Produced by .com Semana Británica en la Habana: Tremendo swing! Del 9 al 19 de octubre estaremos celebrando diez días con muchísimo swing al mejor estilo británico. No faltarán el cine, la música, el teatro, la historia y mucho más. ¡Algo muy especial ! Cine de primera Ven con nosotros al Cine 23 y 12. “La mujer invisible” dirigida por Ralph Fiennes y “El Gigante egoísta” del Dir. Clio Barnard son, entre otros filmes los platos fuertes de esta oferta cinematográfica. “Tropical con swing” ¡Para los cardiacos a la música más movida, el viernes 17 los esperamos con nuestro gran concierto “Tropical con Swing” en el Salón Rosado de la Tropical! ¡No te pierdas a Déjá vu, Robertico Carcasses e Interactivo! Y para los más clásicos, la Camerata Romeu y la joven y talentosa violinista británica Ruth Palmer ofrecerán un concierto el sábado 18 de octubre. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 43 Produced by .com contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 44 Produced by .com 3rd Month of Brazilian Culture in Cuba October 1-31, 2014 Different venues in Havana Lovers of Brazilian culture will have a blast with the wide and diverse program that has been organized for the entire month of October in the Cuban capital, thanks to the joint efforts of the Brazilian Embassy in Cuba, the Cuban Ministry of Culture, ICAIC, Casa de las Am¬é¬ricas and other participating institutions. The Brazilian Culture Month opens with a concert by sax player César López and Habana Ensemble, which will be followed in subsequent days by a varied program that includes, among other, theater, visual arts and photography exhibitions, lectures and cinema. The latter will occupy a privileged space with the Brazil Film Club, which screens and discusses films from different epochs¸ genres and trends, every Wednesday at 3:00 pm at Multicine Infanta, and especially with the series of feature films as a tribute to the popular actor José Wilker, who passed away in April this year. The films will be shown at Sala Charlot of the Chaplin Theater from October 1-15. Music Casa de las Américas Oct 23 7 pm Opening of the 3rd Brazilian Month with a Brazilian music concert featuring sax player César López and Habana Ensemble Jazz Café Oct 4 Brazilian Night: Performance by César López and Habana Ensemble 10:30pm Fábrica de Arte Cubano Oct 18 8:30pm Launching of the DVD “La Pena de Malandro,” an autobiographical documentary about the musical trajectory of the Cuban singer-songwriter Yolo Bonilla and his love for Brazilian music Exhibitions Casa de las Américas Oct 1 - 31 Exhibition of significant Brazilian artwork from the Casa de las Américas collection 7 pm Casa de las Américas Library Oct 22-31, opens Oct 22, 4pm A retrospective of Brazilian literature with an exhibition of books and documents from the institution’s collection Fábrica de Arte Cubano Oct 16-31, opens Oct 16, 6pm Photographic exhibition: Capoeira Cubana contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 45 Produced by .com Casa de África Exhibition Arts & crafts: Skills and Traditions Oct 18 10 am Theater Centro Fe y Cultura Loyola Teatro Nacional Guiñol Fábrica de Arte Cubano Oct 18-19 Oct 24, 3pm; 25-26, 11am & 5pm Oct 31 10 am 9 pm A Farsa do Boi ou o Desejo de Catirina, Teatro Viajero. Puppet show that mixes African-Brazilian culture with legends from Amazonia. Theoretical events Fábrica de Arte Cubano Lecture: The Sao Paulo Biennial, Courses of Action and Challenges Oct 16 7 pm Casa de las Américas Library Panel: Presence of Paulo Freire in Cuban educational institutions. Oct 22 4:30pm Traditions Danza-Teatro retazos Fábrica de Arte Cubano Plaza Vieja Oct 15 Oct 16-18, Oct 19 5 pm 8:30pm 4:30pm Performances of Capoeira, an African-Brazilian tradition Cinema The event will pay special tribute to actor José Wilker (1947-2014) from October 1-15. The opening will be held on October 2, 8:30pm at Cine 23 y 12 with the film El hombre de la capa negra Sala Charlot, Charles Chaplin theater October 1 2 pm Los inconfidentes 5 pm Doña Flor y sus dos maridos October 9 2 pm Giovanni Improtta 5 pm Los inconfidentes October 2 2pm & 5pm Jango October 10 October 3 2 pm El hombre de la capa negra 5 pm La batalla de canudos 2 pm Doña Flor y sus dos maridos 5 pm El hombre de la capa negra October 11 2 pm La batalla de canudos October 12 2 pm María, madre del Hijo de Dios 5 pm El hombre del año October 14 2 pm El mayor amor del mundo 5 pm Embarque inmediato 2 pm Romance 5 pm Giovanni Improtta October 4 2 pm El hombre del año 5 pm María, madre del Hijo de Dios October 5 2 pm Redentor 5 pm El mayor amor del mundo October 7 2 pm Canta María 5 pm romance 2 pm Embarque inmediato 5 pm El bien amado October 8 October 15 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 46 Produced by .com Around Cuba Fiesta de la Cultura Iberoamericana October 24-30, Casa de Iberoamérica, Holguín The Ibero-American Culture Festival seeks to recover and promote the Spanish roots and background of Ibero-American nations through a program of concerts, exhibitions, workshops and popular festivities, with the participation of important Cuban artists and guests from all over Ibero-America. A different festivity is held each day, including the Fiesta de la Semilla (the recreation of Ibero-American cultural roots), Fiesta de los Tambores (drum festivity), Fiesta de las Guitarras (Guitar Fest), Fiesta de la Solidaridad (cultural dialogue among the communities of Iberian natives and descendants, the neighborhoods and the visitors, which aims to promote joint projects) and Fiesta de los Pueblos (a celebration of the identity built from the American confluence of different ethnic groups and cultures). Fiesta de la Cubanía October 17-20, City of Bayamo Art and culture in a festival that contributes to a reunion with the roots of the nation. The theoretical section of the event will deal with the topic The Melting Pot of Cuban Nationality. Highlights of the event include a solo exhibition by Ever Fonseca, National Visual Arts Prizewinner 2012; performances by Pancho Amat, Tony Ávila, Enit y su Piquete, Bororó y su Re Mayor, Arturo Jorge y su Cuarteto Tradición; Reynier Mariño and his band, and a special show with the popular comedian Kike Quiñones. Other activities include fashion shows and the sale of books. The gala on Cuban Culture Day will take place as usual at Plaza del Himno Nacional de Bayamo on October 20. On this occasion, a wax figure of the late musician Juan Formell will be unveiled and His band, Los Van Van will close the festivitoes with a special concert contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 47 Produced by .com travel photos by Alex Mene Driving through Cuba’s provincial heart with hitchhikers by Lydia Bell An old man, with a warm smile decorated by a single tooth, is our hitcher of choice for the morning. His wiry grandson helps him haul a bulky package into our rented car, which emits a loud grunt. ‘The pig,’ the old man announces in Spanish, ‘is for my eightieth birthday party on Thursday.’ In Cuba, a country where a vehicle is a precious commodity, hitchhiking is popular. In the mindnumbing heat, those resigned to waiting for a ride are found killing time in patches of shade. If I drive past a hitcher, my Cuban husband tuts in reproach. We are in the Central Provinces of Cuba, the middle chunk of this long streak of island, and in search of the country’s provincial face. We start awkwardly, in commercialized Varadero, where poolside bingo, stale buffets, and cabaret dancers in cerise spandex are easy to leave behind. This close to such self-indulgences, the revolutionary posters that plaster the road out of Varadero read strangely. Patriotism or death. Revolution forever. Quickly though, the spanking bitumen peters out into potholed pathway as we amble through modest villages, and after two hours we are in Cienfuegos, a port city on the south coast. An adolescent hustler on a pushbike screeches to a halt beside us. We arrange for him to pick us up later so we can check out some paladares (private restaurants in the homes of locals). This will set the tone for most of our evenings in the Central Provinces: being whisked around by ‘jineteros’ (aka, hustlers). They get a bad rep, but their commissions are small and they are helpful. This one secures me a £4 seafood grill in a cosy paladar decorated with wall-mounted crustaceans. I can’t reveal the location, since the trade is illegal in Cuba—but you’ll find it if you want to. To reach Trinidad, our next destination, we edge through the foothills of the palm-smothered Escambray Mountains, then dip down to the coast, passing quiet villages backed by mountains and roads crisscrossed by giant crabs. Without 20-something Abelito in the car (going to visit his mother in Trinidad), we would certainly have got lost. There is a dearth of road signs. Trinidad is simply the most handsome town in Cuba, in one of the most idyllic provinces, Sancti Spiritus. Founded contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 48 Produced by .com feels workaday, its concrete-boxes in shades of peeling pastel, but the town has life, and history. The university is dominant, especially its medical school. Students throng the humming streets, many sporting white coats and stethoscopes. Next morning we leave for our final destination: Camagüey, a four hour drive away through flat plains, crisscrossing over railway lines choked with weeds. Cuba’s third largest city—which still feels like a village—is enchanting, especially the Colón hotel, where we are staying. Built in 1927 and apparently unaltered since, it has a soberly mysterious air and an elaborate mahogany bar. We arrive on a Saturday, the night of the weekly street party. There are trestle tables, pigs on spits, copious children and the ubiquitous reggaeton music that has ousted salsa for the Cuban under25s. Camagüey’s streets are full of blind alleys and forked streets—a deliberate ploy to foil the pirates who plagued this part of Cuba in the 16th century. Away from the main drag, the town is deserted, its streets strings of genteel terraced houses slinking away down the next curve, where you might find in a quiet square a ruined church with a oncegrandiose façade. in 1514, the giant village—for that’s all it really is—is wedged between the towering Escambray range and shimmering coast. It was once an important colonial town, which grew fat on sugar between 1750 and 1850, when its lavishly beautiful valleys were dotted with scores of sugar mills. When the slaves were freed, fortunes dipped and Trinidad stopped growing. Today, it’s an exquisitely preserved museum piece of cobblestone streets and sumptuous squares. Walk a few streets and the village peters out into red earth, drooping palms and mountains. Drive eight kilometres and you reach a perfect stretch of beach, Peninsula Ancón, where you step out of your cabana onto white sand. We go in search of views: of red-tiled roofs, sea and mountain from the bell tower of the Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos, and of the soaring countryside from the ruined church nearby. We visit the Plaza de la Revolución, reverberatingly empty but for a group of adolescents, kitted out in the full all-American regalia and engaged in a baseball game of some skill. Unbelievably, we come across Pedro, our ancient hitcher, sans pig. ‘Tomorrow!’ he reminds us delightedly. ‘My eightieth!’ So the pig’s time is over then. And so is ours. Tomorrow we hit the road again, this time back to Havana, and then the modern world. We have grown attached to the simple charms of the provinces. On our way home we stop to join the locals on the marble benches of a sleepy square. We stay there till the sun fades then walk back through silent streets. Next stop, Santa Clara, capital of Villa Clara province, and home to the eternal flame that commemorates Che Guevara’s burial place. We pass through villages, glimpsing the kind of rural life lost in the rest of the Caribbean: oxen ploughing fields; farmers sowing crops by hand. Santa Clara Lydia Bell is a brilliant award-winning freelance travel and features journalist. See www.lydiabell.co.uk for more information. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 49 Produced by .com photos by Ana Lorena Camagüey: Languishing in a city designed for pirates by Jill Worrell When you’re in the Caribbean, walking around a town designed especially to deter rampaging pirates, it can be difficult to let go the image of a swashbuckling charmer with dreadlocks and eyes lined with kohl. Well, it is for me. However, the history of the real pirates of the Caribbean is much less picturesque than Johnny Depp. For about 200 years, from the mid-1500s, pirates, privateers and buccaneers terrorised Cuba (as they did all of the Caribbean). Among the pirates who sacked Camagüey was Sir Henry Morgan, one of the most notorious of all. Technically, Henry Morgan was not a pirate but a privateer. So, bear with me while I veer slightly off course to explain the difference. Remarkably, they did not just attack, burn and pillage towns on the coast. Camagüey, which is in the centre of the island, was targeted so frequently by pirates in the 1600s that its street plan was devised like a maze to disorient them. Privateers were men with privately owned ships who were contracted by a nation at war to attack its enemies’ ships and in some cases towns and cities. Henry Morgan was contracted by the English who were at war with the Spanish at the time. Camagüey began life as the Spanish coastal town of Santa María del Puerto del Príncipe in 1514. It was relocated inland just 14 years later, ironically, not to escape the pirates but after battles with the local Indian population. Unlike almost every other Spanish colonial city, Camagüey is not built on a grid system with square plazas. Instead, to confound marauding pirates it has labyrinthine streets and narrow alleyways. Today there’s the added advantage that these twisting lanes keep out the tour buses and encourage tours on foot or bicitaxi (the Cuban version of a bicycle rickshaw). Pirates, most simply put, are robbers with ships. Traditionally pirates had no allegiance to any country or power, but were literally a law unto themselves. One of the most famous pirates of all times was Blackbeard (Edward Teach). Also operating in the Caribbean were the buccaneers. The word buccaneer originates from a word in the local Caribbean language related to dried meat—especially manatee. The original buccaneers traded this meat but eventually began attacking ships, especially Spanish ones, as well as raiding towns. Apparently it was a lot more lucrative. The lines between a buccaneer and privateer are very blurred. It’s also true that one nation’s hero is another’s privateer. Sir Francis Drake, for example, was lauded by the English as a legendary sailor and explorer but was detested by the Spanish who contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 50 Produced by .com Eventually we got the list and pored over it. I was sure now that bag was with one of two groups, one of which was doing a walking tour of Camagüey’s streets, the other was on the road, an hour ahead of us. “We need to ring their tour guides,” I said. Everyone agreed…and did nothing. “So can you find the phone numbers and call them?” I pleaded, only just refraining from bashing my head a few times on top of the reception counter at the same time. photo by Alex mene regarded him as a privateer and nicknamed him The Dragon. But, back to the ancient streets of Camagüey where Admiral Sir Henry Morgan once rampaged. They are now listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site and were at the time of my last visit, the scene of an inadvertent luggage heist. I had had a group over-nighting in one of the town’s few hotels situated in the historic quarter. Because the street outside had been pedestrianised, this made shifting luggage in and out quite a mission. Porters had to load up trolleys and push bags through the crowded shopping street and load the bus at breakneck speed. Speed was crucial because the nearest access point was a narrow one-way road that would be temporarily blocked while this manoeuvre took place. The driver was always on edge because despite there being no alternative to this, the traffic police inevitably would descend waiving a ticket book. “I don’t have their numbers,” said the manager. I suggested he call their head office and ask, while wondering if it might be quicker if I vaulted the counter and did it myself. By now one of the porters had discovered a hitherto untapped vein of initiative and offered to dash through the streets to find the tour guide with the walking party. Meanwhile we’d discovered that the other tour guide had his phone turned off. The porter returned puffed and sweaty from his jog around Camagüey’s unique winding streets to tell me that the guide still in town had checked his bags and there were no extras. By now, our bus was waiting to be loaded so there was nothing for it, we’d have to hunt down the other bus en route. So, there we were poised to set off with the luggage when I noticed one of our bags was missing. As is often the case in countries where Latino male egos can run rampant, the staff first of all decided that either I hadn’t counted properly or I was responsible for the lost item. After putting those theories to rest, I tried to instill a sense of urgency among the front desk staff and the porters. I doubted the bag had been magicked away by modern-day pirates but it had to be somewhere. There had been two other groups staying in the hotel that night and both had already departed. “Maybe the bag was taken by another group by mistake,” I suggested. The staff all nodded and smiled. “Sí, sí, that is what happened.” Apparently that was case closed, so to speak. “So maybe I could see their rooming list and see if they had group members in rooms near my client?” I asked. The desk manager beamed. “Good idea.” He made no attempt to find the list. “So can I have a look at the list,” I said, trying not to let my voice go up an octave in frustration. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 51 Produced by .com We hurtled east, the highway almost empty of other motorised traffic, our progress checked only by some prodigious potholes and corrugations and by the necessity of dodging around horse-drawn taxi carriages. The porter, who had now more or less admitted that he was responsible for the hijacking of one of my bags, was travelling with us and every few minutes kept trying the guide’s cellphone. The pressure was on as the coach ahead of us was due to turn off and head for Cuba’s northern beach resorts; we were not. There was one café at the road junction where the bag could be left, otherwise it would be off for a week’s sand and surf without its owner. Which is why we ended up at a police checkpoint, where the helpful officers kindly put out a call to stop the bus of unsuspecting European tourists and search for our bag. Luckily before they succeeded in flagging it down, the guide turned his phone on. He unearthed the bag and dropped it off at the café where we found it sitting beside the bar about 20 minutes later. The afternoon before the kidnap, we had taken to Camagüey’s streets in less dramatic fashion. Because the town lies outside Cuba’s main tourist trail, such as it is, you’re unlikely to meet many other visitors here. It’s an easy place to walk around (and to get lost in) but much more fun is to hire a bicitaxi on which to rattle around the cobblestone lanes. If you’re lucky, your bicitaxi might be equipped with its own sound system (ie ancient boom box tied to the back axle). The cyclists will take a rest, stretch out languidly along their bikes while passengers walk along the pedestrianised street leading to the Plaza del Carmen. A 19th-century church dominates one side of the square but what steals the show here is a series of bronze sculptures by Cuban artist Martha Jiménez created some years ago. The sculptor used local people as models. One of the sculptures is of a man wearing a baseball cap sitting on a bench reading the newspaper. Rather poignantly, the subject, now a little more lined and stooped, comes to the square to sit beside it, complete with cap and newspaper, waiting for tourists to make the connection. He’s been there two years running, which I find a little sad. I shamelessly cajole my group members to leave him small tips. With so little motorised transport here, even nonpedestrianised streets are claimed by Camagüey’s residents. In the late afternoon, as the sunlight softens, people spill out of their houses, most of which open directly on to narrow pavements. Old ladies sat on rocking chairs in their doorways, men leaned on walls and smoke cigars, boys kicked footballs over the cobbles and young women in skintight lycra wiggled past. I wandered around a corner and almost fell into a game of dominoes that had been set up in the road. A vocal audience surrounded the players as they slapped their tiles down on the table. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 52 Produced by .com photos by Ana Lorena Back to the future in Havana’s Barrio Chino by Ricardo Alberto Pérez I’ve always enjoyed waking around Chinatown early in the morning, when the streets are filled with senior citizens. As they walk around, I realize every one of them has a different story—one that, no doubt, holds substantial wisdom. Today, eight of them live at 506 Manrique St., in a building known as Residencia China. Watching them go about their daily routines is also a way to understand the past. I’ve always enjoyed waking around Chinatown early in the morning, when the streets are filled with senior citizens. As they walk around, I realize every one of them has a different story—one that, no doubt, holds substantial wisdom. Today, eight of them live at 506 Manrique St., in a building known as Residencia China. Watching them go about their daily routines is also a way to understand the past. According to historians, the first Chinese immigrants settled in Havana around 1858. Chang Leng, owner of a modest restaurant, and Lam Siu Yi, who owned a fruit and vegetable stand were among them. From then on to the early 20th century, a considerable amount of Chinese immigrants arrived in Cuba. A population of nearly 10,000 inhabitants occupied approximately ten blocks, which today make up the Chinatown district. The relocation of these Chinese immigrants to Cuba implied a relocation also of their complex photo by Y. monte contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 53 Produced by .com Liberation Army during the Cuban Independence Wars. Although their impressive work capacity had led them to successfully develop numerous business activities, an internal struggle to gain control of the district broke out, leading to the proliferation of casinos, opium dens and brothels. photo by Alex Mene photo by Alex Mene The last large wave of Chinese immigrants took place in the 1920s, and by 1930, the Chinese community in Cuba consisted of 24,000 people. At the time, Havana’s Chinatown had achieved an image of its own, not for its architecture, but to the feel of the district and its people. After 1959, the casinos, opium dens and brothels were closed down, but the rest of the district remained untouched, as frozen in time. The year 1990 marked a new era for Havana’s Chinatown—a movement began to preserve the old festivities and traditions, as well as to restore and reopen the restaurants in the area. As a result, the area has become one of the city’s liveliest districts. The spirit of Chinese commerce hasn’t been lost; on the contrary, it has overcome one difficulty after another for over a century and a half. Restaurants cultural identity. As they settled among us, they created the necessary structure to continue with their lifestyles. This is how, among other things, they opened a printing press and got to have three newspapers in circulation. Likewise, the Chinese theater became notably active with venues that included the Águila de Oro (today a movie theater) located at 104 Rayo St., on the corner of Rayo and Cuchillo streets in Centro Habana. In these first theaters, both women and men would play roles of either sex and in addition to acting, they also mastered singing, acrobatics, pantomime and martial arts. The operas performed on these stages featuring Chinese actors from California received widespread coverage. photo by Humberto Mayol Chinese medicine was also introduced in Cuba. As a result, an extraordinary drugstore was opened in which a wide range of medicinal products— mainly of a homeopathic nature—have been sold for over a century. Although conceived for the Chinese community, this drugstore has always been very popular among Cubans and, in a way, has contributed to changing our healing habits. As it happens with all relocations, the immigration of Chinese men and women to Cuba was a distressingly painful process. Many of the newcomers were forced to take the place of African slaves and a large number of them joined the photo by Humberto Mayol contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 54 Produced by .com have proliferated and their menus offer a wide variety of dishes from both the Cuban and Chinese cuisines. Ever since it was opened in 1995, the Casa de las Artes y Tradiciones Chinas (House of Chinese Arts and Tradition) has been developing a sociocultural program aimed at spreading the thousandyear-old culture and the values of the Chinese community in Cuba. This center holds a large number of Chinese items, most of which have been donated to the institution by the people of Barrio Chino. Curiously enough, the vestibule of the building that houses the center features the family tree of renowned Cuban painter of Chinese origin Flora Fong, through which she pays special tribute to her ancestors. The district, which is limited by Escobar, Galiano, San José and Reina streets, is perceived in a peculiar way. The mystery of tradition has pervaded this city area and has given it a richness that can only be obtained where the essence of solid cultural traditions is incorporated into a foreign environment. The thousand-year-old culture came to the energetic Caribbean to stay and created a space where the two exotic cultures collide and coexist. The arrival of African slaves may have marked our nation exceptionally, but the Chinese made our mix even more beautiful. The mix of the two races never ceases to amaze me with its variations of beauty. Just a few days ago, as I was walking down Barrio Chino’s short boulevard, the sight of two gorgeous “Chinese-mulatto” girls impressed me so much that I can only define them as the greatest expressions of sensuality. As I gazed upon them, I was secretly celebrating the frenzy that results from such an amazing mix. photo by Alex Mene contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 55 Produced by .com The Gentleman from Paris (El Caballero de París) by Margaret Atkins photo by Y. Monte Among Havana’s many charming stories, the legend of the Caballero de París (literally, the Gentleman from Paris) is one of the loveliest. In the early 20th century, this immigrant from Galicia, an unsuccessful restaurant server in his teens, was sent to El Príncipe Penitentiary, where he became ill before being released. A renowned lunatic and unforgettable character, the remains of the Caballero de París lie today in a crypt in the Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís, the very same place that holds the remains of viceroys, admirals, famous monks and other important persons. The Caballero de París, who proclaimed himself king and god, has become a sort of miracle-working saint by the divine grace and will of the people. And half serious and half joking, people who pass by the convent touch the beard, a finger or the cheeks of the statue (by renowned artist José Villa Soberón) erected in his memory with the hope of fulfilling a wish or having some good fortune. When he was born in Fonsagrada, Lugo, Galicia, Spain, he was baptized José María López Lledín, but he lost his name when he quit his job, let his hair and beard grow and began to wander around Havana, which he did for over fifty years. Dressed in French-style suit and coat, with no place to live but the streets of the city (which he baptized his “Dulcinea”), his appearance reminds us of Don contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 56 Produced by .com The adventures of Andrés began at the age of 16 when he quit school. Pressed by his mother, he began to work at a large spinning mill. He would have stayed there, in anonymity, had he not overheard of an announcement to join a group of theater aficionados. And this is precisely what he became: a stage aficionado who had a long training period. But then came the day when he felt he needed more and found what he was looking for in Cuban stage actor and director Vicente Revuelta (founder of the emblematic company Teatro Estudio, which at one point in time was the best of Cuban theater). Under Vicente, Andrés told me, a new world opened up to him and he became a professional actior. But things were very unstable with Vicente, mainly due to his psychological disorder (and once more a halo of illustrious craziness surrounds this story) and Andrés found himself unemployed again. Then he took a crucial decision: to continue trying until he was 30—that would be his limit. If he hadn’t made a name for himself by then, he would give up the pursuit of art. When he failed to meet the deadline he had set for himself, he headed for a cigar factory to learn the craft of cigar rolling. And it was precisely then when he was asked to play a mute monk in a soap opera directed by a friend from his days of aficionado. The character already had the solemnity of the Caballero, whose spirit would seem to haunt Andrés forever. Quixote—a French-Creole Quixote who was fed and looked after by the inhabitants of the city. And although he sometimes became the target of mockery and humiliation, there were always more people looking after him than trying to hurt him. But the Caballero de París was no beggar. He would write love letters for free for those who requested his services and give flowers to the ladies who would stop and talk with him. He always had a lucid phrase or verse that would amaze those aware of his condition. And he would not take what was offered to him without giving something in return—a paper fan, a torn page from some old book of poems, a pencil or a feather adorned with colored ribbons. But fate took its time. Andrés joined Argos Teatro, one of Havana’s most renowned theater companies, directed by Carlos Celdrán, and a while later went back to working with Vicente. But when the company Giganterías was created under the auspices of the Office of the City Historian to fill the streets of Old Havana with color and music, he felt drawn by the company’s multifaceted work. The living statue thing came a bit later. There was no tradition in Cuba of this form of street art whatsoever, despite being so common in large cities. However, after a Colombian company introduced it in Havana back in the 1990s—although Ever since he was admitted to the Psychiatric Hospital in 1977 because of his deteriorated health condition and after his death in 1895, Havana thought he had been lost forever. The statue is beautiful, but it’s just standing there, cold bronze. Now, however, you can get to meet him in the form of a living statue thanks to the amazing work of Andrés Enrique Pérez Viciedo, a Habanero whose story is just as romantic as the Caballero de París’s. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 57 Produced by .com employment and passion, has allowed him to transform, with little effort, into the legendary character of the Caballero de París. not for the street, but for the stage—this art form was introduced as part of Giganterías’ repertory. Today, living statues are part of the attractions Old Havana has to offer. There are statues of pirates, angels, old photographers in sepia, a piper, a mother and her baby. Their costumes and makeup imitate bronze, silver, clay. Most performers—professional actors who have undergone extensive training— take their characters very seriously and remain with their eyes closed, breathing imperceptibly until the sound of a coin magically wakes them up. Here in Havana, Andrés was the first actor to take the streets as a living statue. The figure of this 48-year-old man who has found a new lifestyle, The Caballero de París (first José and now Andrés) makes a woman from overseas smile, and thanks her for the coin she has left in his bag by giving her a paper fan made of old newspapers. The woman, who is magically transformed by the charm of the moment into a fair lady of colonial times, keeps the fan close to her heart. Could this humble present possibly become one of her dearest souvenirs from her visit to Cuba? It makes you laugh and cry, all at once, seeing that touch of delirium in the eyes of the Caballero (now Andrés, first José) when, besieged by a group of adolescents, he comes out of his immobility and replies with a string of words of dark meaning in pure Castilian. Curious people applaud. Children follow him. He is easy to find. Everyone knows him. Don’t ask for José—obviously—or Andrés for that matter. When visiting Old Havana, ask any passerby for the Caballero de París. Offer him a coin. Take his gift. You will have met one of the most charming characters in this city. You will have met a living legend. photo by Alex Mene contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 58 Produced by .com photo by Y. Monte La California Restaurant by Margaret Atkins It’s 7 o’clock, in the evening and I’m standing on the corner of San Lázaro and Crespo Streets in Centro Habana. From here, I can make out the spot where Paseo del Prado begins and a portion of the Malecón. Some kids are playing in the street under the dim, yellow light of the street lamp. Except for the kids, there’s hardly a sound—quite unusual considering the music that you almost always hear coming from most houses in Havana. Suddenly, this strange peacefulness is disturbed by the honking of a car. Then some more honking. And still some more. “It’s a wedding,” most people will say, given the newfangled custom of exhibiting the bride in a vintage American convertible around town. A vintage convertible does arrive, but sans bride. Instead, the passengers are La California Restaurant customers, who before dining, are taken on a tour around town for an hour. Experienced drivers pick them up at their hotels or casas particulares (private accommodations) and drive them to important sights in Havana before dropping them off at La California, which is situated only twenty meters away from the wellknown former solar of the same name. courtyards were very often the scene of impromptu music and dance meets and La California was no exception. But La California had one special attraction: around the 1930s and 40s .it was the place where the musicians who created the basis of Cuban Latin jazz, including the legendary conga player Chano Pozo, used to hang out. This is why restaurant owners Charlie and Mapi decided to christen their place La California and take their customers on a journey in time. If you askj for a cup of coffee, for instance, you will be served in a vintage cup with a silver spoon. The Cuban solar of days gone by were tenement houses which featured a central courtyard surrounded by an infinite number of rooms. These contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 59 Produced by .com The Green Room is presided by the small statute of a virgin, an apparition of Mary while an old phonograph lets out tunes from yesteryear. “We want our customers to feel as if they were visiting their grandmother’s home: comfortable, welcome, loved,” I am told by the couple while I admire the over 100 labels of wines in the house. Here and there hang bunches of tobacco leaves, which give out a subtle aroma that goes well with the surroundings. The beautiful garden of hanging ferns with a skylight grabs my special attention and I would have loved to just sit there having a cocktail in this heavenly place but the staff has been busy joining tables for a group of tourists. The waitresses have served the welcoming cocktail and are hurrying the guys in the kitchen for the entrees. I follow them into the kitchen and meet the chef. He tells me that La California serves stylized Cuban Creole food with healthy eating in mind. This is why they go easy on pork fat or refined sugar, so very typical of Cuban dishes. I take a look at the dishes being served: pumpkin cream topped with parmesan; traditional ropa vieja (shredded meat); grilled lobster with sweet potato in caramel & cider; grilled fish with fine herbs; lamb in red wine; curry chicken with apples… Some of the customers have gone Italian contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 60 Produced by .com and enjoy pizzas made in coal-fired ovens. The desserts are the typical ones made at home: boniatillo (pureed sweet potatoes to which sugar, butter and cinnamon have been added); flan, or caramel custard; cookies from a special recipe… A typical Cuban music quintet have come to play for the guests today while they are also taught the steps to the cha-cha or salsa by two experienced dancers. For lovers of Spanish culture, one of the rooms resembles a tavern complete with bull-fight posters and large, heavy mahogany doors and French windows. There’s a basket filled with toys and fancy hats for restless little kids. The evening is over, and as I step out into “the real world,” I take a last look back to the neon sign of La California—sole indication of a very special restaurant that allows you to time travel while you enjoy delicious typical Cuban food within a beautifully restored 19th-century colonial building. contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 61 Produced by .com photo by Ana Lorena Havana’s Own Cocktail Champion by Margaret Atkins Sergio Serrano is a happy man. He has three kids, a wife, parents who are still alive…and he has cocktail making. He could be described as stout, middle-aged, good-natured, kind. Born in the eastern province of Las Tunas, Sergio moved to Havana with his parents when he was eight. He is an excellent conversationalist and is proud of the prestige enjoyed by Cuban bartenders, who are known for their mastery of this profession that reached its peak during the Prohibition era in the United States, when Havana opened a great many bars that became filled with visiting Americans. The excellent quality of the local rum favored the development of an unmistakable Cuban style of cocktail making that has since been sought after by visitors as an essential part of the experience of coming to Cuba. Sergio wanted to do his bit and today he is well known by the people who work in the tourism industry. In 2003, he became the champion of the World Cocktail Competition organized by the International Bartenders Association, of which 58 countries are now members. He is the only Cuban (or Latin American for that matter) who has ever won this competition. The winning cocktail is called “Adan y Eva” (Adam & Eve). According to its creator, it pays tribute to love in every possible meaning, not only romantic love but the love for his family, which is the most important part of his life. This is why he never gets contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 62 Produced by .com tired of saying that his victory is also the victory of those around him, who would patiently put up with the long hours of testing, stress, absence. Even though it may not seem very difficult to the unprofessional eye, creating a new cocktail is truly a complicated task. He told me how he had run the risk of becoming an inveterate drinker due to the large amounts of alcohol he had to drink for months in his successive attempts to improve his cocktail and turn it into what it is today—a balanced, seductive, subtle mix. An Adam & Eve is ideal to set the mood for a romantic dinner. Here’s the recipe: customer, Eusebio Leal Spengler, Historian of the city of Havana, for whom he has but words of praise and affection. Or, instead, he will listen to you and will know how to comfort you or share in your happiness. He will suggest a drink that will depend on the situation and the mood you’re in, but he will also, respectfully but firmly, tell you when it’s time to stop and go home. And we totally agree when Sergio tells us that a bartender is much more than a person who serves drinks—he’s a confessor, an advisor and a friend. 25ml (5 parts) Havana Club Rum Añejo 7 Años 20ml (4 parts) white vermouth 20ml (4 parts) green apple liquor A few drops of Campari It can be shaken or stirred, depending on individual preference. It is garnished with two apple cores on a stick, placed on the rim of the glass. Now, you can make yourself one at home. Or while visiting Havana, drop by the beautiful lobby of the Habana Libre Hotel in the center of El Vedado and ask for Sergio Serrano. Then, in addition to enjoying your drink, you’ll have the pleasure of meeting him and hearing him tell stories of the time when the Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamín would drop by the Café del Oriente in Old Havana or when he served Queen Sofía at the glamorous restaurant and even of his favorite contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 63 Produced by .com Nazdarovie Havana’s best places to eat El Atelier CA 5 Bella Ciao CA 4+ Café Bohemia CA 5 Café Laurent CA 4+ Experimental fusion Homely Italian Café Spanish/Mediterranean Beautiful décor, interesting menu. Great service, good prices. A real home from home. Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices Beautiful penthouse restaurant with lovely terrace. Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025 Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7-206-1406 Calle San Ignacio #364, Habana Vieja Calle M #257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2090 La California Carboncita La Casa Casa Miglis CA 5 CA 5 CA 5 CA Cuban-Creole/International Italian Contemporary fusion Swedish-Cuban fusion Beautiful C19 colonial building. Great fresh pastas. Walter’s place. Great pizza. Quick & reliably good VIP service. The Robaina family place. Thurs Sushi night. Oasis of good food & taste in Centro Habana Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863 7510 Ave. 3ra #3804 e/ 38 y 40, Miramar (+53) 7-203 0261 Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-7000 Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486 Chanchullero Le Chansonnier CA Cocina Lilliam CA El Cocinero CA 5 4+ 4+ 5 CA 5 Spanish/Mediterranean Contemporary fusion International International Fabulous value hole in the wall tapas. Trendy. Stylish & contemporary with good food. Expensive. Beautiful garden setting, quite posh. Industrial chic alfresco rooftop with a buzzing atmosphere Teniente Rey #457 bajos, Plaza del Cristo, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-872-8227 Calle J #257 e/ Línea y 15, Vedado (+53) 7-832-1576 Calle 48 #1311, e/ 13 y 15, Miramar (+53) 7-209-6514 Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado. (+53) 7-832-2355 Corte Príncipe CA Il Divino D. Eutimia Esperanza 5+ CA 4+ CA 5+ CA 4+ Cuban/Creole Cuban fusion Absolutely charming. Great food. Intimate, idiosyncratic & charming (not cheap). Italian International Sergio’s place. Simple décor, spectacular food. Set in huge gardens outside town. Great for the kids. Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar (+53) 5-255-9091 Calle Raquel, #50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero, Arroyo Naranjo (+53) 7-643-7734 Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja (+53) 7 861 1332 Calle 16 #105 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-4361 La Fontana La Guarida Habana Mia 7 Iván Chef CA 4+ CA 5+ CA 5 CA 5 International International International gourmet Spanish Consistently good food, attentive service. Old school. Justifiably famous. Follow in the footsteps of Queen of Spain Endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Brilliantly creative and rich food. Calle 46 #305 esq. a 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-8337 Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-9047 Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra. Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287 Aguacate #9, esq. a Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-863-9697 Nautilus Nazdarovie Piccolo El Litoral CA 5+ International Watch the world go by at the Malecón’s best restaurant. Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201 Río Mar CA 5 CA 5 CA 5+ CA 4+ French/Mediterranean Soviet Italian Imaginative, tasty and innovative menu. Fascinating Soviet decor. Beautiful view, great food. Kitsch pizza place with animals. Great after the beach. Calle 84 #1116 e/ 11 y 13, Playa. (+53) 5-237-3894 Malecon #25, 3rd floor e Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947 Calle 5ta A #50206 e/ 502 y 504, Guanabo, Habana del Este (+53) 7-796-4300 San Cristóbal Santy Starbien CA 5+ CA 5+ CA 5+ International Cuban/Creole Sushi/Oriental Spanish/Mediterranean Contemporary décor. Wonderful sea-view. Deservedly popular.Consistently great food. Kitsch décor. Authentic fisherman’s shack servicing world-class sushi. Fabulous food and great service in the heart of Vedado. Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar (+53) 7-209-4838 San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-9109 Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, Vedado (+53) 7-830-0711 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 64 Produced by .com La Guarida CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion CostExpensive www.laguarida.com Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana. (+53) 7-866-9047 El Litoral CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food International CostExpensive Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Quality décor, good service and great food. Best new place recently opened. Don’t Miss Drinking a cocktail at sunset watching the world go by on the Malecón Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado. (+53) 7-830-2201 Santy CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Sushi CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Fabulous sushi, wonderful ambience overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea. World class. Don’t miss Getting a reservation here. Calle 240A #3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 Starbien CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of foodSpanish/Mediterranean CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Eating some of Havana’s best food at present. Consistently good, excellent service Don’t miss The fish terriaki is to absolutely die for. Get a reservation on the main terrace. Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, Vedado (+53) 7-830-0711 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 65 Produced by .com La California CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Cuban-Creole/International CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful C19 colonial building. Popular place with quality food and great service. Love the fresh pastas. Dont’t Miss The interesting history of the neighbourhood, where Chano Pozo (legendary Afro-Cuban jazz percussionist) hung out. Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-7510 Casa Miglis CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Swedish-Cuban fusion CostExpensive Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for The beautifully designed interior, warm ambience and Miglis’s personality create the feeling of an oasis in Central Havana. Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis. The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and lingonberries. Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486 www.casamiglis.com Habana Mía 7 CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food International gourmet CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Stylish and fresh décor give a Mediterranean feel for long endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Don’t miss Watching the world go by on the lovely terrace overlooking the ocean. Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287 www.habanamia7.com Nazdarovie CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of foodSoviet CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Getting a flavor of Cuban-Soviet history along with babuska’s traditional dishes in a classy locale. Don’t miss Vodka sundowners on the gorgeous terrace overlooking the malecon. Malecon #25 3rd floor e/ Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 66 Produced by .com Atelier CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Experimental fusion CostExpensive Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Interesting menu, beautiful building with great décor and service. Don’t miss Dinner on the breezy terrace during summer. Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025 [email protected] Café Bohemia CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Café CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices Don’t miss Thursday night happy hour (7-9pm) Ground floor of the Palacio de la Casa del Conde de Lombillo, Calle San Ignacio #364, (Next to Factoría Plaza Vieja) [email protected] http://www.havanabohemia.com La Carboncita CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Italian CostModerate Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Reliably good food, including Havana’s best pizzas. Quick and efficient service. Don’t Miss Walter’s recommendation for the day. Ave. 3ra #3804 e/ 38 y 40, Miramar (+53) 7-863-9697 / (+53) 5-343-8540 La Casa CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food International/sushi CostExpensive Type of placePrivate (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Warm hospitality and openness from the four generations of the Robaina family. Quality food. Don’t miss Thursday night sushi night. The Piña Colada. Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado. (+53) 7-881-7000 [email protected] contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 67 Produced by .com La California For Quality Food, impeccable service & an intimate ambience Dine in a beautifully restored 19th-century colonial building just one block away from the emblematic Malecón drive and seawall. La California is located on the place where legendary Cuban percussionist Chano Pozo used to hang out. La California now offers a tour of Havana in a Classic Vintage Car plus lunch or dinner. Your chauffeur will pick you up from your hotel or private accommodation and show you around the historical sights of this incredible city for one hour before heading to La California. Calle Crespo No.55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana. Tel (+53) 7 8637510 Superb Cuban-Creole/International menu The offer includes: For reservations, call Welcoming cocktail (+53) 7-863-7510 Bread + surprise extra Chef’s salad California style or Pumpkin Cream topped with parmesan Curry Chicken with apples / traditional Ropa Vieja (shredded meat) / Grilled Fish with fine herbs / Cuban Lamb in red wine & mint tea / Grilled Lobster with sweet potato in caramel & cider (at your choice) Moros y Cristianos (rice and beans) or vegetables Traditional Cuban dessert (flan, sweet potato and rice puddings) Domestic non-alcoholic beverage (water, soda, juice or beer) Price: CUC 38 per person Open daily noon-midnight [email protected] facebook.com/restaurant.lacalifornia contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 72 Produced by .com Sloppy Joe’s Havana’s best Bars & Clubs Traditional Bars El Floridita CA 4+ Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life. Great cocktails. Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1299 Factoría Plaza Vieja CA 5 Sloppy Joe’s Bar CA 4+ Recently (beautifully) renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’. Microbrewery. Serves ice chilled bong of light locally brewed beer. San Ignacio esq. a Muralla, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-4453 Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-7157 Espacios TaBARish Cervecería CA 5+ Antiguo Almacén Madera y el Tabaco de la Microbrewery located overlooking the restored docks Simply brilliant. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Contemporary Bars El Cocinero CA 5+ Fabulous rooftop setting, great service, cool vibe. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (+53) 7-832-2355 CA 5- Laid back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beer-garden. CA 5 A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Calle 10 #510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. Contemporary bars/clubs Don Cangrejo CA 4+ Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. CA 4 Über modern and stylish indoor bar/club. Miami style crowd and attitude. Calle 94 #110 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-206-4167 Ave. 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 Other Meliá Sports Bar CA Kpricho 4 Big-screen sports-bar in modern outdoor terrace. Good for sports and live music. Meliá Habana Hotel Ave. 3ra e/ 76 y 80, Miramar (+53) 7-204-8500 Up & Down CA 5 From the team that brought you Sangri-La. Attracting a young party crowd, very popular. Take a coat. Calle 3ra y B, Vedado El Gato Tuerto CA 4+ Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. El Tocororo CA 5+ X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts, funky young scene. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) (+53) 5-329-6325 www.facebook.com/fabrica. deartecubano (+53) 7-202-9188 (+53) 7-836-3031 Fábrica de Arte CA 4+ Expat favorite hangout. Small indoor bar with live music and eclectic clientele. Sangri-La CA 5 For the cool kids. Basement bar/club which gets packed at weekends. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 7-264-8343 Bertolt Brecht CA 5 Think MTV Unplugged. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle O e/ 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224 Calle 18 e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Humboldt 52 Fashion Bar Havana Café Bar Madrigal Gay-friendly Cabaret Las Vegas CA 4 Can get dark and smoky but great drag show (11pm) from Divino—one of Cuba’s most accomplished drag acts. Infanta #104 e/ 25 y 27, Vedado. (+53) 7-870-7939 CA 5 One of the hottest venues for gay nightlife in Havana at present. Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital, Centro Habana. (+53) 5-330-2989 CA 5 A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676 CA 4 Pop décor, fancy cocktails, and the staff’s supercilious attitude, this is a gathering spot for all types of folks. Calle 17 #809 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2433 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 73 Produced by .com Bertolt Brecht CA 5 CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar/clubs Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with hip & funky Cubans who like their live music. Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a Wednesday evening. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Espacios CA 5- CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in the garden area which often has live music. Good turnover of people. Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek Mazano playing live sets in the garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-202-2921 Sangri-La CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farundula in the most popular bar/club. Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5-264-8343 Don Cangrejo CA 4+ CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Love it/hate it – come for the Friday night party Don’t Miss Looking for de see Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 74 Produced by .com Humboldt 52 CA 5 CA TOP PICK Gay friendly Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hot staff, comfortable setting, and welcoming vibe at Havana’s first full-time, openly-gay bar Don’t Miss The disco ball, a talented opera duo performing Wednesdays and karaoke and drag performances other days of the week Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital, Centro Habana. (+53) 5-330-2989 Fábrica de Arte CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for X Alfonso’s superb new cultural center has something for everyone Don’t Miss Ne pas manquer Les meilleurs musiciens cubains Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) Fashion Bar Havana CA 5 CA TOP PICK Gay-friendly Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. Don’t Miss The staff performing after 11pm San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676 TaBARish CA 5 CA TOP PICK Contemporary Bar/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Don’t Miss The homemade Russian soup – just like Matushka makes it. Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. (+53) 7-202-9188 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 75 Produced by .com Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Havana’s best live music venues Concert venues Karl Marx Theatre CA 5 World class musicians perform prestigious concerts in Cuba’s best equipped venue. Calle 1ra esq. a 10, Miramar (+53) 7-203-0801 Basílica San CA Francisco de Asís 5 A truly beautiful church, which regularly hosts fabulous classical music concerts. Fábrica de Arte CA 5 X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts inside (small and funky) and outside (large and popular!). Oficios y Amargura, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana Vieja Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) Jazz Café Privé Lounge Sala CovarrubiasCA 5 Teatro Nacional Recently renovated, one of Cuba’s most prestigious venues for a multitude of events. Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Revolución. Jazz Café Jazz Miramar CA 4+ Clean, modern and atmospheric. Where Cuba’s best musicians jam and improvise. Cine Teatro Miramar 10:30pm – 2am Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar Salsa/Timba Café Cantante Mi Habana CA 4 Attracts the best Cuban musicians. Recently renovated with an excellent new sound system. Ave. Paseo esq. a 39, Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7-878-4273 Contemporary Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht CA 5 Think MTV Unplugged when musicians play. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Trova & traditional Barbaram Pepito’s Bar CA 4+ Some of the best Cuban Nueva Trova musicians perform in this small and intimate environment. CA 4 A staple of Havana’s jazz scene, the best jazz players perform here. Somewhat cold atmosphere-wise. CA 5+ Small and intimate lounge club with great acoustics and beautiful decor. Jazz groups play Sunday night. Galerías de Paseo Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, Vedado Calle 88A #306 e/ 3ra y 3raA, Miramar (+53) 7-209-2719 Casa de la Música Casa de la Música CA 4 CA 4 Centro Habana Miramar A little rough around the edges but spacious. For better or worse, this is ground zero for the best in Cuban salsa. Smaller and more up-market than its newer twin in Centro Habana. An institution in the Havana salsa scene. Galiano e/ Neptuno y Concordia, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-8296/4165 Calle 20 esq. a 35, Miramar (+53) 7-204-0447 Don Cangrejo CA 4+ Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 Gato Tuerto CA 4+ Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. Calle O entre 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224 Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico. Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-1808 El Sauce CA 5- Great outdoor concert venue to hear the best in contemporary & Nueva Trova live in concert. Ave. 9na #12015 e/ 120 y 130, Playa (+53) 7-204-6428 Legendarios de Guajirito CA 5 See Buena Vista Social Club musicians still performing nightly from 9pm. Touristy but fabulous. Zulueta #660 e/ Apodaca y Gloria, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-7761 La Zorra y el Cuervo CA 5 Intimate and atmospheric, this basement jazz club, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Calle 23 e/ N y O, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2402 Salón Rosado de la Tropical CA 5 The legendary beer garden where Arsenio tore it up. Look for a salsa/timba gig on a Sat night and a Sun matinee. Ave. 41 esq. a 46, Playa Times: varies wildly (+53) 7-203-5322 Teatro de Bellas Artes CA 4+ Small intimate venue inside Cuba’s most prestigious arts museum. Modern. Trocadero e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, Habana Vieja. CA 4+ Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’ Buena Vista Social Club style set in the grand Hotel Nacional. Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835-3896 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 76 Produced by .com Havana’s Best Hotels Hotel Nacional de Cuba Simply the best… CA Iberostar Parque Central 5+ Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-6627 Santa Isabel CA 5+ Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas Saratoga CA 5+ Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor. Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201 Terral CA 5 Wonderful ocean front location. Newly renovated. Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201 Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7-862-8061 Boutique Hotels in Old Havana Florida CA 5 Beautifully restored colonial house. Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-862-4127 Business Hotels Meliá Cohíba CA 5 Oasis of polished marble and professional calm. Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7- 833-3636 Palacio del Marqués... CA 5 Cuban baroque meets modern minimalist Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja Meliá Habana CA 5 Attractive design & extensive facilities. CA 4 A must for Hemingway aficionados Mercure Sevilla CA 4 Stunning views from the roof garden restaurant. Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes, Habana Vieja (+53) 7- 860-9529 Trocadero #55 entre Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8560 Economical/Budget Hotels Bosque CA 3 On the banks of the Río Almendares. Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa (+53) 7-204-9232 Deauville CA 3 Lack of pretension, great location. Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-8812 5+ Immensely charming, great value. Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1037 Occidental Miramar CA 4+ Good value, large spacious modern rooms. Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5-204-8500 For a sense of history Ambos Mundos Hostal Valencia CA Conde de Villanueva CA 5 Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers. Mercaderes #202, esq. a Lamparilla (+53) 7-862-9293 H10 Habana Panorama CA 4+ Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern. Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3583 Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar (+53) 7 204-0100 Hotel Nacional Riviera CA 5 Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens. CA 3 Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835 3896 Paseo y Malecón, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4051 Saint John’s Vedado CA 3 Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular. Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-833-3740 CA 3 Good budget option with a bit of a buzz Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4072 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 77 Produced by .com Havana’s best private places to stay La Maison www.lamaisoncuba.com For Help reserving any Private Accommodation (Casas Particulares) in Cuba please contact [email protected] Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B) 1932 CA 4 Carlos in cuba CA 5 Gay Friendly BED and Breakfast in Havana Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming. Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203 Calle 2 #505 e/ 23 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-833-1329 (+53) 5-295-4893 [email protected] www.carlosincuba.com Habana CA 5 Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location. Julio y Elsa CA 5 Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable. Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253 Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-8027 Artedel Hostal Guanabo Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals) Rosa D’Ortega CA 5 Beautiful and welcoming large home Patrocinio #252 esq. a Juan Bruno Zayas, 10 de Octubre (+53) 7-641-4329/5-263-3302 [email protected] www.larosadeortega.com Vitrales CA 5 Hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique B&B with 9 bedrooms. Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-2607 CA 5+ Ydalgo Martínez Matos’s spacious and contemporary 3-bedroom penthouse is magnificent. CA 5 Beautiful 4 bedroom seafront villa in sleepy Guanabo. Excellent food. Calle I #260 e/ 15 y 17, Vedado (+53) 5-830-8727 Calle 480 #1A04 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Guanabo (+53) 7-799-0004 Habana Vista Suite Havana Apartment rentals Bohemia Hostal CA 5+ Gorgeous 1-bedroom apartment beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja Habana Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568 (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com Luxury Houses Villasol CA 5 Rent Room elegant and wellequipped. Beautiful wild garden and great pool. Calle 17 #1101 e/ 14 y 16, Vedado (+34) 677525361 (+53) 7-832-1927 (+53) 5-360-0456 Casa Concordia CA 5+ Beautifully designed and spacious 3 bedroom apartment. Spanish colonial interiors with cheerful, arty accents. CA 5 Two-storey penthouse b&b with private pool Calle 13 # 51 esq. a N, Vedado (+53) 5-388-7866 Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-829-6524 Concordia #151 apto. 8 esq. a San Nicolás, Centro Habana (+53) 5-254-5240 www.casaconcordia.net Casablanca CA 5 Elegant well-equipped villa formerly owned by Fulgencio Batista. Beautiful wild garden. Morro-Cabaña Park. House #29 (+53) 5-294-5397 www.havanacasablanca.com CA Michael and María Elena CA 5 Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building. Quality loft style décor. 5 This leafy oasis in western Havana has an attractive mosaic tiled pool and three modern bedrooms. Calle 66 #4507 e/ 45 y Final, Playa (+53) 7-209-0084 Residencia Mariby CA 5 A sprawling vanilla-hued mansion with 6 rooms decorated with colonial-era lamps, tiles and Louis XV furniture Vedado. (+53) 5-370-5559 contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 78 Produced by .com Artedel Luxury CA 5+ CA TOP PICK 3 Bedroom penthouse Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Stylish and contemporary furniture along with a beautiful 360-degree view over Havana Don’t Miss Ydalgo – an impeccable host, discreet or gregarious, as you prefer Calle I #260, e/ 15 and 17, Vedado (+53) 7-830-8727 Bohemia Hostal CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Gorgeous 1 bedroom apartment Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Independent beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. Don’t Miss Spending time in Havana’s most atmospheric Plaza. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja [email protected] (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567 www.havanabohemia.com La Maison CA 5+ CA TOP PICK 3 Bedroom apartment Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for The terrace with a view of Havana and its people. Don’t Miss Getting in touch with the architecture and splendor of a Cuban colonial home. Cienfuegos #207 altos e/ Misión y Arsenal, Habana Vieja. (+53) 5-412-0166 www.lamaisoncuba.com Rosa D’Ortega CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Boutique Villa Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Large elegant villa away from the bustle of downtown Havana. Gracious hosts, beautiful rooms. Don’t Miss Exploring the off-the-beaten track neighbourhood. Patrocinio #252 esq. a Juan Bruno Zayas, 10 de Octubre (+53) 7-641-43-29 / (+53) 5-263-3302 http://www.larosadeortega.com contents nothing compares to HAVANA page 79 Produced by .com
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