1. Art and Diseño

Photos by Katie Moorman
brighton maker
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Chris Hawkins
‘Handmade things have a kind of soul’
To quote Roger Protz
“This is truly
magnificent beer,
the very best of
British”
“It still pleases me when I see someone wearing my
surprisingly high level of definition, but to enhance
jewellery, even after 20 years.” Chris Hawkins, jew-
the more intricate parts of the design, he carves out
ellery designer and maker, produces all of creations
the details using a set of hand tools. “I nearly always
in his studio, a converted coach-house just off
work in silver, because the shapes I like to make are
London Road. “The inspiration for my collections
often larger and I like the jewellery to feel heavy,
will often come from a natural object I’ve found, or
so to produce my designs in gold would just make
something I’ve seen in a museum collection. I like
them too expensive.” To finish, he uses oxidisation
things from the past, and looking at how they were
to create the blackened detailing, and applies stones
made.” And it is this historical influence, perhaps,
to certain pieces to add a bit of sparkle. “I quite
which draws Chris towards using traditional meth-
often use garnets and sapphires, because I like their
ods in his own practice. “A lot of design has taken a
characteristic colours, but for certain pieces I use
more digital direction but I haven’t really gone that
rubies.” One of these includes a necklace with a
way, I like to draw and carve my designs by hand.
pendant cast in the shape of a hand, life-like down
I find there is often something lacking about an
to the delicate creases in the palm, itself wearing a
object rendered from a computer programme – it
tiny ruby ring.
has a uniformity which is inherent in the digital
With a certain day approaching, has Chris got any-
process. But things which are made by hand have
thing in particular in mind at the moment? “I guess
a kind of soul which you can’t replicate through
my style isn’t very Valentinesy... but I do make a few
digital design.”
engagement rings. The antler engagement ring is
Chris learned the process of making jewellery dur-
my own take on the traditional solitaire ring with a
ing an apprenticeship with Lewes-based jeweller
pink or blue sapphire, and the wedding ring has a
Jonathan Swan. “I begin by carving the design into
matching band so everything slots together.”
a piece of wax, starting with the basic shape and
Interview by Rebeccca Cunningham
gradually working in the details,” Chris explains.
Chris’ designs are stocked by local shops Baroque,
When finished, this piece is sent off and a plaster
on Union Street, and Cameron Contemporary Art
mould is made from it, which is used to cast the
on Second Avenue. Check out chrishawkinsjewellery.
final piece of jewellery. The process achieves a
com for more of Chris’ work.
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