1. Art and Diseño

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Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine
• Doña Ana County
• U.S. Department of Agriculture
• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences!
!!!!!
Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office
530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
MG Program Administrator: Jeff Anderson
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Magazines can be downloaded at the NMSU website:
! http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
Contents:
• Plant-of-the-Month:
Japanese Scholar/Chinese Pagoda Tree
!FEBRUARY 2015!
3
• The Creative Shrub Garden (Book)
• References for Plant-of-the-Month
4
4
•
•
•
•
•
Japanese Scholar or
Chinese Pagoda Tree
Page
1-2, 4
• Water-Wise Plant-of-the-Month:
Little-Leaf Cordia
…Other Species & Cultivars
(Sophora japonica)
This plant is a native of China
and Korea and thrives in
U.S.D.A. hardiness zones 4
through 8. Its common name
originated from the fact that
these trees were often planted
around Buddhist temples
throughout Asia. It is a mediumsized, light tree with a short trunk
and rounded crown.
3
Best Top Ten Roses
5-6
Basic Rose Pruning
7
Tips For Pruning Roses
7
A Rose Calendar for Las Cruces & El Paso 8
Five Essential Tools For Pruning Roses
9
• Honey-Do List for February 2015
10-11
• CoCoRaHS (Weather Reporting)
(Current & Historical Perspectives)
12
•
•
•
•
•
•
13
13
13
13
13
13
February 2015 MG Birthdays
Thanks for the Goodies
Timeline for March 2015 Magazine Info
MG Contact Information: Keep Current
Reminder: Monthly MG Meeting
Save The Dates: High Desert Gardening
& Landscaping Conf. (March 12-13, 2015)
• Got Ideas? (For MG Magazine)
13
• Composting With Worms
• Cicada Killer Wasp
14-15
15
• Why Birds Need Native Trees
• Facts About the Junco Bird
16-17
17
• INVASIVE PLANTS: Himalayan Blackberry
18
• RANGELAND TREES & SHRUBS:
…Rubber Rabbitbrush
…Skunkbrush Sumac
19
19
• Cauliflower
• Endive & Escarole
• Epic Tomatoes (on SeedSavers website)
20
21
22
• 2015 MG Intern Profile (Mike Cook)
22
• MG Monthly Meeting Minutes
• MG Hotline Duty Information
!
23-24
24
Vol. 16, Issue 2
Although this tree is a moderately fast grower, a newly planted sapling may not produce
flowers for a full decade after it is planted. Older trees produce flowers in loose, creamy
white panicles. The fruits that are strung up like pearls on a string and have given the tree
its German name ("string tree"). It produces blooms in late summer, forming 6- to 12-inch
panicles of fragrant cream-colored flowers. The small pea-like flowers transform into
slender brown seedpods.
At maturity, the tree shows a generous spreading habit with a rounded crown reaching
between 50 and 75 feet tall. These trees are useful for urban plantings, since once
established they are tolerant of pollution, heat, drought and compacted soil. When grown
in a yard, this tree can reach a height ranging from 50 to 75 feet; however, when grown
along the road in compacted
soil, it only grows to 30 or 40 feet.
T
“Young trees have shiny green bark that becomes striated in shades of brown on
mature trees. Small, flat, and pale-green seedpods persist through winter, and give it a
vibrant look while dormant, and are a clue to its distant kinship with our native mesquite.
During severe dry spells, the Scholar tree is noticeable because its small compound
leaves remain rich green while surrounding plants are dull and scorched-looking. Once
established, it blooms profusely in places it receives little water, rooting deeply and widely
enough to avoid the stress other trees suffer.” (Source: NM Gardener’s Guide, J. Phillips)
Article Continues on Page 2
Master Gardener Hotline Contact Data
(January 1 to January 31, 2015)
# Total Contacts
27
# Telephone Calls
14
# E-Mail Contacts
0
# Total Issues Addressed 27
Geographic Area
Las Cruces 13
Doña Ana
1
Subject of Inquiry
Animal/Wildlife 0 Shrubs 3
Disease
0 Soil
3
Fertilizer
2 Trees 4
Flowers
1 Veggies 0
Ethnicity of Contacts
Herbicides
0 Weeds 2
Hispanic Females
3
Insecticides
0 Misc.
2
Hispanic Males
1
Insects
2 Pruning
Non-Hispanic Females
8
Irrigation
5
Non-Hispanic Males
2
Lawns
3
Thank you to Certified MGs Laurie Davidson and Elizabeth Grinnell for collecting this data.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 2
Japanese Scholar/Chinese Pagoda Trees—
Continued from Front Page
Flowers
Japanese Scholar Tree in autumn
Care & Maintenance:
! Carefully thin young trees in order to develop a strong
branch scaffold. Remove any suckers that may sprout at
base of tree and any cross-branching branches.
! Fertilizing and pruning may delay blooming.
! Rake up old seedpods that are blown from the tree.
! During its first three years, tree water to depth of 30 inches
when temperatures reach over 90 degrees.
! Apply a generous top dressing or shredded bark to help
accelerate root development.
! Space trees 10 to 12 feet from walls and paving and 20 feet
apart to develop a continuous canopy.
! Can be used to shade patios and other outdoor living areas.
How To Grow:
1) Locate a sunny spot to plant this tree. Although a full sun
exposure is best, the tree can tolerate partial shade. The
location should have moist, rich, well-drained soil with a pH of
4.5 to 8.0. A sandy loam is ideal, but the tree also tolerates clay
or poor soil.
2) Excavate the planting site with a shovel, making the hole one
and one half to two times wider than the tree’s rootball and
about the same depth as the root ball.
3) Carefully remove the tree from its pot. If the tree’s rootball is
burlap-wrapped, untie the burlap. You can leave the burlap
under the root system if you wish, since it will eventually
decompose.
4) Place the tree in the hole, and make sure that its rootball is at
the same level or slightly higher than the surrounding soil.
Gently fill the hole with loose soil while holding the tree straight.
Saturate the soil using a water hose as you fill in the hole. Tamp
the soil gently with your foot to remove any air pockets.
5) Monitor the tree regularly, providing extra water when rainfall is
scant. Lay down a thin layer of organic material to serve as
mulch. This will help conserve the tree’s moisture.
6) Apply a slow-release fertilizer to the tree in early summer in its
first year. Thereafter, it will likely receive all the feeding it needs
from fertilizer applied to the surrounding lawn. If it is growing in
a planting bed or other spot that does not receive lawn fertilizer,
you should have the soil tested at your local agricultural
extension service to determine if any soil amendment is
necessary. (Source: SF Gate, G. Bruno) ■
Fruit
Japanese Scholar/Chinese Pagoda Tree FACTS
Family:
Fabaceae (Legume)
Common Names: Pagoda tree, String Tree (German)
Origin:
Native to Southern China, Korea, Manchuria, Japan,
Sakhalin, and Taiwan
Description:
Medium-sized, light tree with short trunk and rounded crown.
Older trees produce flowers in loose, creamy white panicles.
Fruits strung up like pearls on a string.
Cultivars:
‘Columnaris’, ‘Pendula’, ‘Princeton Upright’, ‘Regent’, ‘Variegata’
Height/Width:
Depends on soil conditions. Up to 65 feet in yard, however,
only to 30-40 feet in compacted soil. Width to 20 feet.
Hardiness:
USDA Zones 4-8
Watering:
Very drought-tolerant once established; deep rooting helps it
avoid stress during drought conditions.
Growth:
Moderately fast growing
Fruit:
Fleshy round-shelled pods—fruit often do not always develop
Sun:
Full sun; shade tolerant
Flowers:
Fragrant creamy-white flowers bloom in mid-to late summer;
butterfly-shaped; flowers only appear after about 10-15 years.
Blooming occurs in July or August once flowers do begin.
Leaves:
Lance-like leaflets that are dark green above and blue-green
below; turn yellow in autumn (See photo in Column One)
Bark:
Green-brown bark when young—pale brown in furrows when
older
Soil:
Prefers rich, moist, well-drained soils. Medium tolerance to
salts. Prefers a pH of 4.5 to 8.0. Can tolerate clay or poor soil.
Roots:
Surface-rooting, heart-rooting, expansive root system; no
suckers, tolerates pavement.
Uses:
Soil improvement; for use in public areas, parks, urban areas,
roadside verges, car parks, and pedestrian areas
Pests:
Disease-resistant and insect-resistant
Wildlife:
Birds eat the seeds; provides forage for honeybees attracted
to its flowers.
Propagation:
From seed direct sow outdoors in fall; work into soil as soon
as ground can be worked; allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds
Remove fleshy coating on seeds before storing.
Dangers:
Parts of this plant are poisonous if ingested
Concerns:
Fruit and seedpod debris can be a nuisance—use a fruitless
variety if possible. New growth can droop and look awkward.
When siting tree, keep in mind that the plant’s litter can be
somewhat messy if planted near a house, driveway or path.
Also, be sure that the location allows adequate room for the
mature tree’s spreading crown.
Article References Provided on Page 4
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Water-Wise Plant-of-the-Month
Little-Leaf Cordia
(Cordia parvifolia)
Source: Little-Leaf Cordia in ‘Water-Wise Plants for the Southwest’ by
N. Sterman, M. Irish, J. Phillips and J. Lamp’l. Cool Springs Press, 2007.
Zones:
USDA 8 to 11
Form:
Dense and widely spreading
Growth & Mature Size: Moderately-growing evergreen shrub that grows
4-8 feet high and 4-10 feet wide.
Uses:
Hedge, screen, focal point and midground
Soil:
Tolerates any well-drained soil from fertile,
garden soil to rocky, native ones, but not heavy
clay
Pests:
None cited.
Description:
Delightful looking in summer. A favorite whiteflowered, summer-blooming shrub. This shrub is well-named, as its leaves
are small, crinkly, and smoky gray-green. The dark branches make fanciful
turns and twists to give this plant a complicated, dense appearance. The
small, paper-thin white flowers form in clusters at the end of branches and
are prolific from early spring to late fall. The delicate beauty of the flowers
entirely belies the rugged heat and drought tolerance of this shrub. In
areas with summer monsoons, the Little-Leaf Cordia can still take the
humidity.
Page 3
Shared Spaces:
• Little-Leaf Cordia makes an impressive hedge or screen when planted
en masse.
• It can be mixed with other shrubs such as jojoba, sugarbush, Texas
Ranger, or Arizona rosewood to create an informal hedge or boundary
planting.
• Its relentless bloom throughout summer makes it a splendid specimen
or accent plant, particularly around small patios, courtyards, or eating
areas.
• Use it against hot walls, near a pool, or in other areas where reflected
heat is intense.
Cultivation:
• Maintain mulch around its roots in summer (without touching the bark)
to keep soil from drying out too quickly and provide any needed
nutrients.
• Water every 3 to 4 days for 2-3 weeks, then water every 7 to 10 days
for the first summer, once a month or less in winter, if there is no
rainfall.
• Water less frequently in temperate climates, allowing for soil to dry
between waterings.
• Little-Leaf Cordia has a beautiful natural form, it is rarely necessary
to prune for shape.
• Prune dead or damaged wood in spring.
• Little-Leaf Cordia drops its leaves in response to severe drought,
stress, or exceptionally cold weather, but recovers quickly
Other Species and Cultivars:
! ’Texas Olive’ (Cordia boissieri)
A taller shrub with large, olive green leaves and large cluster of white
flowers with yellow throats. Much less tolerant of salty soil or water than
Little-Leaf Cordia. This plant blooms in spring and fall.■
Little–Leaf Cordia Blooms
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 4
Japanese Scholar/Chinese Pagoda Tree
–Article References–
The Creative Shrub Garden:
Eye-Catching Combinations for Year-Round Interest
Author: Andy McIndoe (Hardcover)
Publisher: Timber Press (July 29, 2014)
Home gardeners know the key elements to a well-designed
garden: perennials that bloom year after year, annuals that
add a burst of color, and bulbs that guarantee spring flowers.
But what about shrubs—what role should these hardy plants
play?
The Creative Shrub Garden puts the shrub in its rightful
place—front and center. This groundbreaking approach
shows you how to make the most of the many benefits of
shrubs—including their hardiness, year-long beauty, size, and
low-maintenance nature—by making them the main element
in a garden design. McIndoe teaches you the basics first, with
tips on choosing shrubs based on a garden’s size,
determining soil and climate needs, and pruning and
maintenance. He then offers hundreds of shrub combinations
that work with 15 main garden styles, including coastal,
cottage, Mediterranean, tropical, urban, and more.
The Creative Shrub Garden celebrates a plant that is too
often taken for granted and gives gardeners the confidence to
use shrubs in the design-forward treatment they deserve.
About the Author
Andy McIndoe is managing director of Hillier Nurseries and
Garden Centers in Hampshire, England. As designer of the Hillier
exhibit at the Chelsea Flower Show for more than two decades, he
has upheld the company’s unprecedented record of 68 consecutive
gold medals at the show. His two-acre garden at Sherfield English
near Romsey is naturalistic in style, with an extensive wildflower
meadow and informal planting.
(Source: Amazon.com)
How To Grow a Japanese Pagoda Tree by G. Bruno on ‘SF
Gate’ at link: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/growjapanese-pagoda-tree-29263.html
Japanese Pagoda Tree, Chinese Scholar Tree (Sophora
japonica) on ‘STIHL’ website at link:
http://www.stihl.com/792.aspx?idTree=104
Japanese Pagoda Tree (Sophora japonica) also known as
Chinese Scholar on ‘Colorado Cooperative Extension’ at
link:
http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Trees/pagoda.htm
Japanese Scholar Tree in ‘New Mexico Gardener’s Guide’,
Revised Edition 2005, Author: Judith Phillips, Cool
Springs Press
Pagoda tree, Japanese or Scholar-tree on ‘Treebrowers.org’
at link:
http://www.treebrowser.org/index.cfm?controller=final&acti
on=details&key=506&sortby=CommonName
PlantFiles: Japanese Pagoda tree, Chinese Scholar tree
(Sophora japonica) on ‘Dave’sGarden.com’ at link:
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/53035/#b
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Knock Out® Rose
TOP TEN BEST OF ROSES
Find Your Favorite “Tried-and-True” Rose From This List of Picks
Author: Sally Roth in Birds & Blooms, July 2014
Page 5
3) Best Double !Orchid Romance™ (Sun)
This 2011 shrub rose from the breeders of Knock Out® combines
sumptuous antique blossoms with modern disease resistance and an
ever-blooming habit. The initial burst of color softens to a paler pink.
Why We Love It: Old-fashioned beauty, delightful citrusy fragrance,
easy to grow—this newcomer is a winner.
There’s a longtime love affair between gardeners and roses. But
many roses are highly susceptible to black spot and other problems,
while others can be finicky and fail to thrive. So keep the love alive with
these rose selections. All of them are disease-resistant, vigorous and
so long-lived you can count on them for decades of beauty in your
garden. We hope you’ll find your soul mate among the types we’ve
included in our list of the best roses. Unless noted, these roses flourish
in Zones 5 to 9 and Zone 10 in the West.
1) Best Low-Maintenance ! Knock Out® (Sun, Zone 4)
Introduced in 2000, the original red Knock Out® (shown above)
quickly became the most popular garden plant in America. Branch out
beyond the ubiquitous glowing red original with hot pink, blush pink,
creamy yellow and sunset-hued Rainbow Knock Out®. This carefree
rose does have a catch, though: barely any scent.
Why We Love It: As easy to grow as daylilies, Knock Out® roses
live up to their hype.
Honey Perfume™ Rose
2) Most Fragrant ! Honey Perfume™ (Sun, Zone 6)
This 4-foot-tall shrub rose lives up to its name. A floribunda type, its
fragrant flowers grow in clusters, so you can pick a whole bouquet with
one snip of the shears. As the blossoms age, they soften to a creamier
hue.
Why We Love It: In a vase or along a path, Honey Perfume™ won’t
let you pass without stopping to smell the roses.
4) Best Disease-Resistant ! Bonica® (Sun to part shade, Zone 4)
Perfect for nestling among your perennials or planting as a hedge,
this one is just about indestructible. The first flush of bloom in summer
is extravagant; later flowers are less profuse.
Why We Love It: Bonica® thrives in part shade, too, and you can’t
kill it with a club.
5) Best Thornless ! Zephirine Drouhin (Sun to part shade)
Create your own rose-covered cottage with this vigorous, troublefree climbing rose, a favorite for more than 150 years. Heavenly
scented flowers peak in spring and again in fall. Ideal for a north-facing
wall, it blooms in shade as well as sun.
Why We Love It: No “Ouch!” when cutting a bouquet or when
guiding the canes over your house or across an arbor.
Article Continues on Page 6
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 6
Top Ten Best of Roses—Continued From Page 5
9) Best Climber ▲ New Dawn (Sun to shade)
6) Shrub Rose ▲ Mother of Pearl® (Sun)
About 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide, this shrub rose blooms almost
continually if you snip off spent flowers. Otherwise, it rests a bit before
putting out new flowers, right up until heavy frost.
Why We Love It: With color this delicious, Mother of Pearl® is a
natural for your perennial beds, where its never-ending bloom will fill in
any dead spots as other flowers go in and out of bloom.
Delicate in color but strong as an ox, New Dawn has been one of the
most reliable roses ever since it was introduced in 1930. The main flush
of blooms from late spring to summer is followed by occasional
blossoms until frost. This rose blooms on old wood (last year’s growth),
so selective pruning and timing are a key to success with New Dawn
and other climbers.
Why We Love It: This super-fast grower can cover an arbor in just a
year or two. And it blooms happily in partial to nearly full shade.
7) Best Antique ▲ Madame Isaac Pereire (Sun)
For the ultimate in romance, look to this antique French rose with its
huge cupped blossoms and heady cloud of true rose perfume. Be on
the lookout for black spot or rust, especially in humid regions.
Why We Love It: Giant, sumptuous blossoms, vivid color and, most
of all, that incredible fragrance—reason enough to take a gamble on
this antique rose.
10) Best Mini ▲ Rainbow’s End™ (Sun)
Only 1 to 2 feet tall and wide, Rainbow’s End™ is just the right
size for containers or the front of your garden. Its flowers open yellow,
blush red, and then turn pink. If you fall in love with this rainbow, you
may want to add the climbing variety, too.
Why We Love It: Repeat blooms keep the color going all season.■
WILD ROSES:
The parents of our favorite
garden roses came from Asia
and North America. But
North America has its own
bunch of native beauties, too.
All have simple, five-petaled
pink flowers. Look for the
Woods rose (Rosa woodsii),
Prairie rose (R. setigera),
Desert rose (R. stellate) and
others at native plant
nurseries.■
8) Best Hybrid Tea ▲ Mister Lincoln® (Sun)
All hybrid tea roses are susceptible to diseases, but Mister Lincoln®
is more resistant than most. Its velvety, richly perfumed flowers more
than make up for ratty foliage later in the season. A climbing version is
also available.
Why We Love It: Classic deep red rose with intoxicating fragrance,
Mister Lincoln® is simply beautiful in the garden or in a vase.
!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
BASIC ROSE PRUNING
Author: Jackye Meinecke
Former Owner of Enchanted Gardens Nursery
1. Give Yourself Time! Allow 20 or more minutes per bush.
2. Gather Materials:
Clothing:
Heavy jeans and shirt or jacket
Well-fitting tough gloves
Hat appropriate for the weather
Stout shoes and socks
Eye protection
Tools:
Small rake
Sharp pruning shears & a small
jar of alcohol and water
Loppers
Small saw
Trug, bag or wheelbarrow to
remove debris
3. Process: Think “Vase” Shape
• Rake away dry leaves and mulch from the base of the plant.
• Use pruners or loppers to cut away top 1/3 of plant, if taller than 3
feet.
• Cut away all canes that grow on the inside of the “vase” leaving base
free to receive sunlight.
… Cut off any dead canes and canes smaller than the diameter of a
pencil.
… Now that the bush is shaped, cut for bloom. Cut each remaining
cane 1/2 inch above an outer swelling bud. Leave 5-7 nice strong
canes with lively buds.
… This is a good time to apply a granular fertilizer if the ground is
damp.
… Spread mulch around the base of the plant. Water thoroughly.
GENERAL THOUGHTS
— In this climate, roses do not have to be severely pruned every year. A
light pruning every other year is OK.
— Do not deadhead or prune in the fall as this can produce tender new
growth that may freeze.
— Roses need regular, deep watering. Be sure to water during the winter
as well. ■
Page 7
Tips For Pruning Roses
By Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Program
1. First, be sure that the blades on your pruning shears are sharp
so that they make clean, crisp cuts. Also remember to clean
off your shears with a mild bleach solution after you prune
each rose bush so that you do not transfer any disease from
one rose bush to another. Or why not try using disinfectant
wipes, they are much less messy to use.
2. Be sure to cut the canes on your rose bushes at an
approximate 45% angle just above a growth bud.
3. When you need to remove an entire cane, be sure to make
your cut flush to the bud union. Otherwise, if you leave a stub,
it will die back into the union and will allow an entrance for
disease.
4. In the Las Cruces area, the best time to prune your roses is
late January through mid-February, but before Valentine’s
Day.
5. Start the pruning process by cutting all canes on the rose bush
down to just three feet high. Then, prune all canes on the bush
that are smaller than the diameter of a pencil.
6. Next, cut off all dead, diseased or damaged canes or canes
that cross through the center of the rose bush. Also remove all
sucker growth.
7. Choose four or five good canes that form a vase shape and
keep these and cut off the rest. Now, cut these remaining
canes down to 18-24 inches above the outward facing node.
8. Remember, unpruned roses will result in a tangled mass of
branches that attract pests, reduce airflow through the rose
bush that can promote disease and/or spider mites, and
reduce the chances of your rose producing good blooms.
9. Removing more wood from a rose bush can result in fewer but
larger blooms. Less pruning results in a greater number of
smaller blooms.■
Sources: Doña Ana County Master Gardener Program, Ortho
Books, “Rose Pruning Guide”, and * “Growing Roses” Guide H165, New Mexico Cooperative Extension Service.
*This handout is also available in the MG Hotline Library
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
“Hot Cocoa” Hybrid Tea Rose
A Rose Calendar for
Las Cruces & El Paso
By Ann Shine-Ring
Doña Ana County Certified Master Gardener
& Jack Makepeace of the El Paso Rose Club!!
❀
❀
❀
❀
❀
❀
!
Mid-February through April is our first rose-blooming season
Be sure to prune your roses no later than on Valentine’s Day.
May and June is our “fore-summer” season
July, August & September (hot and humid summer with
possible thundershowers in the monsoon season.)
October and November is the second rose season (warm
days and cool nights of autumn)
Six to eight weeks (max.) of winter with nights in the low
twenties (roses lose their leaves and will go dormant)
You can plant roses in late winter to early spring (late February
and March), and again in the fall (September and October). Our
first frost date is usually the first week in April.
Pruning:
Start pruning roses in late January if you like, but
finish by Valentine’s Day. You can prune again in
August for fall blooms. Use Elmer’s glue to seal cut
ends of canes. Borers will cause dieback.
Soils, Mulching, Fertilizing:
Start watering and fertilizing from mid-February
through the first of May, and then the rose season is
usually over until fall. Fertilize again in August and/or
September. You may have roses until Thanksgiving
(or even Christmas and New Year’s!)!
Page 8
Insects, Diseases, Spraying:
Aphids, thrips and mildew are minor problems in the
spring. Rose books and magazines describe
spraying every 7 to 10 days to control black spot and
other fungus diseases. In May, leafcutter bees often
appear cutting half-moon shapes out of your rose
leaves. Roses usually recover within a month by
producing new leaves. There is no known remedy
for these bees.
Watering: Drip irrigation works very well in Las Cruces and El
Paso. Keep your roses together in a special bed
(space bushes at least two feet apart). This will allow
you to manage watering and fertilizing more easily.
Raised beds and creating “well rings” around roses
also work well.
Summer Care of Roses:
1. Provide steady soil moisture throughout the heat. Water your
roses only in the early morning to prevent “burning” of leaves.
2. Regularly rinse aphids off your roses but do this only in the early
morning so the leaves will have time to dry before the heat of
the day.
3. Replenish mulch to keep roots cool and shaded (3 or 4 inches
deep isn’t too much.)
4. Use slow-release organic fertilizers such as alfalfa pellets (they
also serve as mulch).
5. If you have a problem with cats using your rose garden as a
toilet, apply used coffee grounds to your mulch. Also the coffee
grounds will add nitrogen to the soil.■
*This handout is also available in the MG Hotline Library
(Rose Calendar for Las Cruces & El Paso)
!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Queen Elizabeth Grandiflora Rose
Five Essential Tools for
Pruning Roses
By Jeanne Grubert on Dave’sGarden.com, November 8, 2013
Roses benefit from regular, timely pruning. Pruning back
unwanted canes to shape roses should be done in most parts of the
U.S. during the winter months from January through the end of
February. Leafless, dormant roses make it easy to shape the canes
into the desired form.
Most roses have thorns, and thorns make it difficult to prune roses
without incident. Having the right tools for the task of pruning roses
makes the job more comfortable for you and easier on your prize
roses.
✿ The Five Must-Have Tools for Pruning Roses
Late fall and early winter is a great time to shop for rose-pruning
tools. Many garden centers offer discounts or coupons for the
holidays, and you can pick up some great values at that time. There
are five "must-have" tools for pruning roses. Four can be purchased
at your local garden center or big box store; the fifth can be
purchased at any supermarket, grocery store or pharmacy.
…Bypass Pruners. Bypass pruners have a curved lower blade that
is slightly longer than the upper blade. Bypass pruners can be
used on rose canes no thicker than 3/4" of an inch thick. Always
use bypass pruners with the curved blade on the underside of the
cane. To make it easier to prune the cane, push the cane down
gently on the bottom curved blade as you close the handle. Invest
in the best pruners you can afford and keep them sharp. Some
pruners have ergonomic handles. Others have replaceable blades
so that if the blades eventually break, they can be replaced. A
colorful red or orange handle makes them easier to find among
your plants if you should accidently drop them.
…Loppers. Loppers are long-handled, long-blade cutting tools used
on thick canes or branches. They come in many sizes, and no one
size is right for all rose gardens. For mature roses or climbing
roses with thick, heavy canes, select larger loppers. Keep loppers
sharpened and free of rust.
…Pruning Saw. Pruning saws offer a smooth, clean cut for heavy
branches or canes. Most come with replaceable blades that swap
out of the handle quickly should you accidently break the blade.
They can also be used on ornamental shrubs, fruit trees and small
trees.
Page 9
Pink Peace Hybrid Tea
…Gloves. Although you probably have several pairs of gardening gloves in
your potting shed or garage, choose a pair of special rose gloves for
pruning, planting or caring for roses. Rose gloves are made of leather or
heavy canvas; a gauntlet style that covers the wrist and forearm with a
thick, wide band of heavy material prevents accidental scratches. While
canvas protects the hands, leather offers the best protection. Leather
gloves should be kept dry and cleaned gently with a soft, dry cloth after
use.
…Rubbing Alcohol. Rubbing alcohol is a gardener's best friend. It's
inexpensive and kills most fungi and microbes that attack roses,
ornamental trees and fruit trees. Get into the habit of pouring some
rubbing alcohol into an empty, clean coffee can and keeping the can with
you while you prune. Dip your pruners into the alcohol between cuts to
prevent accidently transferring diseases from one cane or bush to
another. You can also pour some alcohol onto a clean, dry rag and wipe
down your tools between cuts.
✿ Clothing
For additional protection while pruning roses, wear long sleeves and
heavy jeans or pants that protect your legs. Since most areas of the
country are chilly in January and February, you'll probably be wearing
heavier clothing anyway, but consider wearing especially heavy-duty
pants and shirts that keep thorns from piercing clothing and scratching
your skin.
✿ Rose Pruning Tips
When you're pruning roses, it's important to prune correctly. Prune
canes above the bud eye, making a clean cut. A 45-degree angle is
best. Shape your rose and prune out any dead canes. Do not compost
them, but place in the trash for pickup. Composting can accidently
spread disease via the compost pile to other garden plants.
✿ Winter Rose Care
After you've finished pruning your roses, consider spraying with
dormant oil spray. Dormant oils prevent insects from wintering over
among the plants and from hatching—the oils smother them. The best
time to use dormant oils on roses is while the roses remain dormant
and well before they begin to leaf out in the spring. Read and follow the
package directions when using dormant oil. Although they aren't
harmful to the environment, there are still some precautions you should
take for using the oils and disposing of the containers.
Pruning roses seems challenging, but with the right tools, you can
accomplish the task in an afternoon. Assemble and store your tools now so
you'll have them on hand for the first nice day in winter when your rose
garden beckons.!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 10
Honey-Do List for February 2015
Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month Gardening in the
Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening
resource book. Also, some of our recommendations come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month and the
Tucson Gardening Calendar both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Another resource
used in our Honey-Do Lists is The Desert Gardener’s Calendar: Your Month-by-Month Guide by George
Brookbank (1999.) Recommendations from Sunset Magazine’s monthly Southwest Garden Guides may also
be included.
GENERAL: February is typically a transition month; the worst of winter is over, theoretically. Finish up last month’s chores and coolseason planting. Add the following to your list of tasks:
ORNAMENTALS:
• Sow seeds of perennial and hardy annual wildflowers such as columbine, penstemon, dianthus,
candytuff, larkspur, pansies, stock, and Johnny jump-ups. Later in the month check nurseries for
transplants of these and other favorites.
• Start caladium tubers indoors for transplant later.
• Leave any frost-killed foliage and branches on landscape plants—this will protect the base of the
plant, which should re-sprout.
• Scatter wildflower seeds including blue flax (Linum lewisii) firecracker penstemon (Penstemon
eatonii), lemon beebalm (Monarda austromontana) and Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon
strictus).
FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES
• Fertilize citrus, fruit trees on Valentine’s Day.
• Continue to plant pines and bareroot deciduous trees and shrubs (e.g. apples, apricots, Asian pears,
peaches, pears, persimmons, plums and pluots.) Most desert-adapted trees can be planted toward the
end of the month, but do not plant any species that are frost-tender until all danger of frost is past (late
March/early April).
• Water established trees once during the month unless winter rains have been abundant. Water newly
planted trees every three weeks during the winter. Provide enough water to soak to a depth of 3 feet.
• Mesquites may ooze a black, sticky sap in late winter. This is normal and a rare concern for alarm.
• Harvest pecans and pick up fallen fruit to prevent pest damage.
• Pick off just enough citrus fruit to eat, leaving the rest on the tree to increase their sweetness.
VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS
• Plant cool-season crops such as carrots, onions, parsnips, radishes, English peas, snow peas, fava
beans, garbanzo beans, lettuces and other green leafy vegetables after mid-month.
• Sow seeds of beets, bok choy, carrots, lettuces, radishes and spinach directly in to the ground.
• Sow seeds of peppers and tomatoes in a warm, bright spot outdoors.
• Start seeds of summer vegetables indoors then transplant outdoors when threat of frost has passed.
• Sow seeds of chives, cilantro, dill and parsley. Plant marjoram, oregano, rosemary and sage.
• Sow seeds of snow peas by midmonth; and all month, sow Swiss chard and turnips, and beets, green onion, and peas.
LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
• Relax! Warm-season grasses are dormant and cool-season grasses are quiet; no need to mow or
fertilize this month.
• Water lawns at least once a month—twice a month may be preferable depending on soil type,
temperature, wind, rain and quality of turf desired.
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 11
Honey-Do List for February 2015—Continued
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
• Continue to plant cool-season succulents outside.
• Apply quarter-strength liquid fertilizer every second watering to actively growing succulents in
containers. Do not fertilize any plant that is dormant or is a warm-season grower.
• Water winter-growing succulents every 10-14 days to a depth of 4”-6” for large plants and
3”-4” for smaller plants.
• If frost is predicted, cover aloe flower stalks with frost cloth—the plant won’t bloom again until
the following year if the candelabra-like stalks freeze.
Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Garden’s monthly
“calendar of care” for cacti and succulents.
ROSES
• Prune bush roses before St. Valentine’s Day*, but wait until after spring bloom to prune climbers.
• Renew a regular fertilization schedule for established roses mid-month.
• Water established roses weekly to a depth of 16”-18”. It is more important to water deeply than
to water often.
• Unless you have been fertilizing on a six-week schedule during the winter, do not fertilize roses
this month.
• Begin to plan which new roses you’d like to plant in your garden in late March or early April after
the danger of freezing has passed.
(Be sure to read all the rose-related articles in this Magazine. See pages 5 though 10)
Valentine’s Day is a conveinent way to remember when to prune roses, but it only works in the
southern part of New Mexico in Las Cruces. Gardeners in other parts of the state must wait until later
in the season. A more general guideline to determine when to prune roses is to consider the
expected last date of frost for your location, then back up one month. As you get closer to the last frost, the chance of a freeze that
damages the new growth on roses is lessened. If it is still cold, the new growth is delayed, so by the time new growth develops, the
chances of a frost that can damage the new growth is minimal, but not impossible.
Elevation and orientation toward the sun also play an important role. If you have experienced frosts when your local weather forecast
is for warmer weather, delay pruning and other gardening activities that require freedom from freezing temperatures. Many gardeners are
concerned about pruning roses after new growth has begun. Even when you prune roses at the right time, there is often much new
growth on the plants. But do not let new growth tempt you to prune too early. This new growth is causing the buds at the base of the
plant to remain dormant. If you prune too early, you may stimulate growth in these important buds. This growth may then be damage by a
late freeze. The growth at the top of your roses can be scarificed to a freeze or pruned away with harming the plants.
(Source: Enchantment Coop Newsletter)
It is always important to correctly identify any insect or disease you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know
what the culprit is, collect a sample in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office located
at 530 N. Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
Our trained Hotline Volunteers are available to the public Tuesdays and Fridays from 9:00am to 12 noon.
MISCELLANEOUS
• Rake up fallen leaves and clean up perennial beds to discourage disease and
insect problems later in the year.
• Continue to weed regularly to keep beds tidy and plants properly spaced.
• Add leaves and grass clippings to the compost pile.
• Begin removing extra mulch applied to insulate delicate plants but be prepared
with a sheet or towel in case temperatures dip too low.
• Keep everything well watered. Spring winds are brutal. Foundation plants, turf,
and ornamentals all need extra care.
TOOL TUNE-UP TECHNIQUES
• Always store your tools in a dry place, protected from rain and other outdoor exposure.
• Clean shovels, garden forks, and trowels. Fill a 15-gallon bucket with sand mixed with 1-quart of vegetable oil. Brush any excess dirt off the
tools, then plunge their heads repeatedly into the mixture until they come up clean.
• Rub metal tool heads and wooden handles with linseed oil.
• Sharpen or replace dull blades on pruning shears and loppers. (Source: Sunset Magazine, January 2012)
•
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
CoCoRaHS
(Community Collaborative, Rain, Hail & Snow Network)
Across the U.S., Canada & Puerto Rico!
The saying "Rain doesn’t fall the same on all" really proves to be true.
How often have you seen it rain in your neighborhood and a few blocks
away not a drop has fallen.
CoCoRaHS is now the largest provider of daily precipitation
observations in the United States. CoCoRaHS is also measuring
precipitation in most Canadian Provinces as well as the Commonwealth of
Puerto Rico. The U.S. Virgin Islands are next on the CoCoRaHS
expansion list. Most likely in early 2015.
So when you have the chance please tell a friend or neighbor about this
exciting grassroots effort to measure precipitation in the backyards of
citizens from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It's easy to join, takes only five
minutes a day and is a fun way to learn about this wonderful natural
resource that falls from the sky. Your observations will give us an ever
clearer picture of the amount of precipitation that falls in our nations
backyards.
ABOUT CoCoRaHS: CoCoRaHS is a grassroots volunteer network of
backyard weather observers of all ages and backgrounds working together
to measure and map precipitation (rain, hail and snow) in their local
communities. By using low-cost measurement tools, stressing training and
education, and utilizing an interactive Website, our aim is to provide the
highest quality data for natural resource, education and research
applications. The only requirements to join are an enthusiasm for watching
and reporting weather conditions and a desire to learn more about how
weather can affect and impact our lives.
Our Web page provides the ability for our observers to see their
observations mapped out in "real time", as well as providing a wealth of
information for our data users.
For more information, please go to the home page @ CoCoRaHS.org
Tell you friends and family that if they would like to sign-up as a volunteer
observer and become part of our expanding network, please go to this
website. If you have any questions or comments please contact me.
Thank you for taking the time to read and report your precipitation
reports.!
Alberta Morgan. SouthWest NM Volunteer Coordinator
CoCoRaHS Volunteer
E-mail: [email protected] (Please use CoCoRaHS in Subject line)
Phone: (575) 694.0047
Submitted by Alberta Morgan, Certified Master Gardener
Page 12
CoCoRaHS
Source: Link:
http://www.cocorahs.org/Media/docs/UT/CoCoRaHS_Brochure.pdf
The Beginning:
CoCoRaHS started as a result of the devastating flash flood that
hit Fort Collins, Colorado in July 1997. A very localized storm
dumped more than a foot of rain in several hours, while other portions
of the city had only modest rainfall. The ensuing flood killed five
people and caused $200 million in damages. With this in mind,
CoCoRaHS began in 1998 with a few dozen volunteers. As more
volunteers participated, rainfall maps could be produced for every
storm. These maps showed fascinating local patterns valuable for
both scientists and local residents. CoCoRaHS continues to grow
with thousands of volunteers now in numerous states.
Volunteers:
Volunteers are a vital part of CoCoRaHS. Those who are
interested in weather, scientists and others who want to help in the
community, are perfect candidates to volunteer. It only takes a few
minutes each day and provides the opportunity to participate in
“hands-on” science. Volunteers will be amazed at what they learn as
they become more aware of the weather that impacts us all.
Volunteers post their daily observations on the CoCoRaHS Web
site. Observations are immediately available in map and table form
for scientists and the public to view. Precipitation data collected by
volunteers supplements existing networks and provides additional
information for scientists, resource managers, decision makers, etc.
Why Is There So Much Interest?
Water is essential for life. Rain and snow are easy to measure, and
the data collected is very important. Precipitation varies greatly with
topography, storm type and season. A farmer’s field, for example,
may be pounded by rain while nearby fields receive nothing. In the
winter, snowfall may pile up in one neighborhood and only dust
another. Meteorologists are very interested in precipitation –
everyone cares about precipitation, whatever its form.!
1
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 13
REMINDER!
Our next monthly MG meeting is scheduled for:
Wednesday, February 11, 2015
Meeting Location:
Branigan Memorial Library
Place: Roadrunner Room
Our meeting time is 9:15am to 11:30am
FEBRUARY 2015 MG BIRTHDAYS
★ Nancy Breard
★ Tracy Thompson
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES
We appreciate your thoughtfulness
February Goodies
Linda Schukei
Lisa Phelps
Karen Padgett
March Goodies
Linden Ranels
Deb McKeown
Mari Blacker
In order to reduce the chances of Identity Theft for our MG’s,
exact birthdate info will no longer be printed in our Magazine.
MG CONTACT INFORMATION
Be sure your email address is current so that you will
be able to receive important information throughout the
month from the MG Program. I regularly update our MG
Contact List. If you need a copy of this file, let me know.
If you have an update to your email, are planning to
move away from our area or have other updated contact
information, please contact me:
Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(575) 640-7177
!
SAVE THE DATE:
High Desert Gardening & Landscaping Conference
March 12-13, 2015
Please join us for the 22nd High Desert Gardening & Landscaping
Conference an educational experience for everyone with an interest in
gardening.
Location:
Cochise College, 901 N Colombo Ave.
Sierra Vista, AZ 85635-2317
Type of Registration
Registration For Full Conference
$100 ($125 after 2/16/15)
One-Day Registration THURSDAY only $65 ($75 after 2/16/15)
One-Day Registration FRIDAY only
$65 ($75 after 2/16/15)
Note: You will only be able to complete one registration per email
address. If this creates a problem for you please contact
[email protected] for assistance. Extended Sessions are
longer, may require an additional fee and you must register to attend
one of these on Thursday. If the Extended Session you want is full,
please contact Steve Fletcher at [email protected] to be added to a
waiting list.
For more information, check out this link:
http://events.r20.constantcontact.com/register/event?oeidk=a07ead86
whg9ef5ce1a&llr=ietks4oab
GOT IDEAS?
If you have a gardening-related article or a suggestion
about a Plant-of-the-Month, a vegetable or fruit, tree,
invasive plant or weed to share for our MG Magazine,
please send me a link or email me your idea.
Anyone can submit information or an article for
inclusion in our monthly magazine. FYI, I do try to put in
information that is seasonal in nature to ensure that MGs
and others receive the resources on a timely basis.
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified MG
Email: [email protected]
Mobile: (575) 640.7177
The deadline for submitting information for the
March 2015 MG Monthly Magazine will be
Tuesday, March 3, 2015.
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(575) 640-7177
2
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
!
Page 14
The Bedding: Your worms need more than just the occasional banana
peel or leftover lettuce leaves to thrive. They need a bedding material
that will retain moisture while providing food, air, and a home for the
young wigglers. Some good options are shredded cardboard,
newspaper, or coir (coconut husks); and peat moss. Moisten the
bedding before placing it in the bin and wring it out until it has the
wetness of a well-wrung sponge. Place 4 to 6 pounds of bedding in a
4-foot-square worm bin. Fluff and occasionally mist the bedding with
water if it appears dry.
Loosely cover the bins to keep earthworms in the dark. They need
temperatures between 40°F and 80°F to survive, so place the bins in a
cellar, warm garage, or even under the kitchen sink!
COMPOSTING WITH WORMS
Source: National Gardening Association Website
Link: http://www.garden.org/ediblelandscaping/?page=vermontcomposting
You've got to hand it to earthworms. Silently, without fanfare, they
transform organic matter in your garden soil into nutrient-rich humus
that plants can use. People typically think of earthworms as outdoor
creatures, but you can actually raise them indoors, too, and use their
castings to improve your soil indoors and out. Why bother?
Because earthworm compost or "castings" contain five times
more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorus, and eleven times
more potassium than regular garden soil. The castings also
contain microbes that can help plants fight disease.
The process of composting with earthworms has a scientific name:
vermicomposting. You can use the rich worm castings in the garden,
or in container potting soils. Plus, raising worms indoors is a fun
winter project and a way to recycle vegetable scraps from the
kitchen. If you think earthworms don't produce a lot of compost,
consider that the average red wiggler worm consumes its weight in
kitchen scraps daily. Multiply that by a couple hundred earthworms
and you've got a compost factory!
Here's how to get started.
The Container: You can build your own worm bin or buy a
commercial product. Bins can be plastic or wood. If you're building
your own, make it as large as is manageable in your space but
only 8 to 12 inches deep. Earthworms feed on the top layers of the
bedding.
Drill 8 to 12, ¼-inch-diameter holes into the bottom and sides of
the bin for proper aeration and water drainage. Drill more holes if
you are using plastic or if the bedding stays consistently wet. Place
a tray under the bin to collect the earthworm "tea" that drips from
the bin. This tea makes an excellent foliar fertilizer for houseplants.
Red wiggler worms are well-suited for vermicomposting. They like warm
temperatures and shallow soil.
The Worms: Although all earthworms eat organic matter, the best type to
use in vermicomposting is red wiggler worms. Red wigglers thrive in
temperatures between 55°F and 77°F—just like most homes. (Worms
from your garden, such as night crawlers, prefer cooler soil
temperatures and deeper soils.) You can buy red wigglers through the
mail or at a local bait shop.
How many pounds of worms you use depends on how much waste
you produce. One pound of red wiggler worms (about 1,000 worms) can
digest a half-pound of veggie scraps a day.
The Food: There is a long list of goodies you can feed your worms
including vegetable scraps, fruit peels, coffee grounds, tea bags,
crushed egg shells, and even leftover pasta. Worms don't like garlic,
onion, and spicy foods. Also, avoid adding meats, fish, fatty and oily
foods, and bones. Chop up the scraps into small pieces and lay a thin
layer on the top of the bedding. The worms will come up to feed in the
dark. Add a small amount of gritty material such as potting soil or
cornmeal to help your worms digest their meal.
The key is to start slowly, adding small quantities of scraps until the
worm bin gets cranking. If you notice bad smells, cut back on the food
scraps. Unless you have a large bin, or several bins, don't expect your
worms to eat every scrap in the house.
Article Continues on Page 15
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 15
Composting With Worms—Continued From Page 14
The Cicada Killer Wasp:
Harmless To Humans, These Large Wasps Target Their
Aggression on Cicadas
The ‘Can-O-Worms’ is a commercial worm-composting bin
that can be used outside, or in a garage or shed.
The Harvest: After 3 to 4 months your worms should have eaten all the
bedding material and the food scraps you've been feeding them.
The top layer of the matter should turn dark brown and will have the
consistency of chunky sand. It's now time to harvest the castings.
The simplest method is to push the castings to one side of the bin,
and add more bedding and food scraps to the other side. After a few
days, the worms will migrate to the new bedding and food scraps.
You can dig out the castings and add more bedding and food. As
you harvest the castings, make sure you pick out any stray wigglers
and return them to the bin.
For more on Vermicomposting:
“As the Worm Turns” @ Link:
http://www.garden.org/regional/report/arch/inmygarden/1869
Also, the definitive book on vermicomposting at home is “Worms Eat
My Garbage: How to Set Up and Maintain a Worm Composting
System—2nd Edition”, by ▼Mary Appelhof.
A new edition of the definitive
guide to vermicomposting--a
process using redworms to
recycle human food waste into
nutrient-rich fertilizer for plants.
Author Mary Appelhof
provides complete illustrated
instructions on setting up and
maintaining small-scale worm
composting systems.
Internationally recognized as an
authority on vermicomposting,
Appelhof has worked with worms
for over three decades.
Topics include: bin types,
worm species, reproduction,
care and feeding of worms,
harvesting, and how to make the
finished product of potting soil.
!
Source: Bill Johnson in ‘Horticulture Magazine’
As the warm days of summer arrive, you may witness a very large wasp
cruising back and forth across open areas of your lawns or gardens. It will
periodically stop, usually perching atop a tall plant or stick, to carefully
observe the surrounding area for its favorite prey—the Cicada. With a
body length of around one and a half inches, this is one of the largest
wasps found in North America: the Cicada Killer Wasp (Sphecious
speciosus) found in the family Crabronidae. Some older ID keys will list
this species in the family Sphecidae, but the taxonomic powers that be
have recently changed Crabronidae from a sub-family or Sphecidae to a
full family on its own.
The Cicada Killer Wasp, along with other wasps in the Crabronidae,
are commonly referred to as ‘digger wasps’, because they create
underground nests. They tend to excavate their nests in drier, sandy soil,
but can be found in moister garden soil, too. The adults can be seen on
flowers gathering nectar, which is their primary diet. I consider them
inadvertent pollinators because I’ve witnessed them occasionally
transferring pollen from one flower to another.
As far as being dangerous to human, they’re actually quite harmless.
The males, like all male wasps, do no have stingers, though they’re
generally seen as protectors of their territory. It’s the female that has a
stinger that allows her to hunt and capture prey. The sting can be painful,
but it’s very rare that she’ll bother people.
Cicada Killer Wasp burying a captured Cicada
When a Cicada, which is larger than the wasp, is found, the wasp will
dive-bomb the unsuspecting prey and sting it, resulting in almost
immediate paralysis. She will then drag the victim to a place from where
she can take off and fly it back to her underground nest. She will enter the
burrow and store the immobilized but living Cicada. These burrows can
contain many chambers, thus make room for several victims to be stored.
The female wasp will then lay a single egg on the Cicada’s body; in a few
days this will hatch and the larva will begin to feed on the Cicada. Once
the larva is full-grown, it will transform into a pupa and spin a protective
cocoon in which it will winter. In the following spring it will become an adult
wasp, chew its way out of the pupa and emerge from the burrow to begin
the cycle again.■
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
A Carolina Chickadee carries a caterpillar to feed its nestling. Ninety-six
percent of all terrestrial birds rear their young on insects.
Why Birds Need Native Trees
The Carolina Chickadee is giving scientists a model to study the
impact of non-native trees on food available for breeding birds
Source: Author: Laura Tangley on ‘National Wildlife Federation’
With six hungry hatchings begging for food, the Carolina Chickadee
needed to find some nourishment fast. A female known to scientists as
“Aluminum/Green, Hot Pink,” the bird flew from her cavity nest to forage
in the treetops for caterpillars and other insects. Surprisingly, she
bypassed nearly a dozen leafy gingko and crape myrtle trees located a
few hundred yards from her nest. Instead, the bird made a beeline to a
willow oak on a busy street half a city block away.
Apparently, she knew what she was doing. “Native trees such as oak
produce more insect prey than do non-native species such as crape
myrtle and gingko,” biologist Jasmine Rajbhandary told me as we raced
behind the tiny bird. An intern for the Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center
(SMBC), Rajbhandary works with Desiree Narango, a doctoral student
with the University of Delaware and SMBC who is conducting a threeyear study to learn how non-native, or exotic, trees in cities and suburbs
affect the availability of food birds need during the breeding season.
“We’re focusing on the chickadee because it’s a common backyard
species that, like most birds, feeds insects to its young,” Narango says.
Because chickadees are cavity nesters, and tree cavities are limited, it’s
also easy to get them to build nests in inexpensive PVC-pipe
birdhouses that mimic natural cavities. Last March, Narango installed
one of these houses in my backyard in Washington, D.C.—providing
me a rare opportunity to observe field biologists at work without having
to leave home.
Habitats For People and Wildlife: How birds and other wildlife fare in
yards like mine is becoming increasingly important. With more than half
the global population living in metropolitan areas today—projected to
increase to more than 70 percent by 2050—cities and suburbs are
gobbling up much of what is left of the world’s natural areas. When it
comes to conserving biodiversity, “we can no longer afford to ignore the
places we live,” says ornithologist Peter Marra, SMBC’s head and one
of Narango’s advisors. “We have to figure out how to manage our urban
habitats so they work both for people and for wildlife.”
Page 16
One of the biggest—yet least recognized—impacts humans are having
on urban habitats is a change in vegetation from predominantly native to
non-native species. “Here in North America, about 80 percent of suburbia
is landscaped with plants from Asia,” says Doug Tallamy, an entomologist
at the University of Delaware and Narango’s co-advisor. He argues that
when non-native plants replace natives, entire food webs are disrupted by
the loss of specialized plant-eating insects—the most important food for
animals ranging from other insects and spiders to reptiles and amphibians
to mammals and birds.
Contrary to what many people believe, “birds do not reproduce on
berries and seeds,” Tallamy says. “Ninety-six percent of terrestrial birds
rear their young on insects.” Because native insects did not evolve with
non-native plants, most lack the ability to overcome the plants’ chemical
defenses and cannot eat them.
Insect Specialists: Caterpillars, a particularly important food for breeding
birds, tend to be among the most specialized groups of all. According to
Tallamy, more than 90 percent of butterfly and moth larvae eat only
particular plants or groups of plants. Monarch butterfly caterpillars, for
example, exclusively eat milkweed leaves—and monarchs are not alone in
being so highly specialized. Evolving the ability to feed on a radically new
host would take an insect species tens of thousands of years, he says.
To convince homeowners to cultivate more bird-friendly natives, Tallamy
says, “we first need to put numbers on the consequences of
landscaping with nonnative plants.” Two years ago, he and Marra
received a National Science Foundation grant to do just that and found an
eager participant in Narango. Working through the Smithsonian’s
Neighborhood Nestwatch Program—a 13-year-old, citizen-science effort—
Narango installed more than 100 nest boxes during the 2013 and 2014
breeding seasons in backyards in and around Washington, D.C. At each
site, she asked homeowners to observe the boxes for nesting activity and
to record all observations on the project’s website. In yards where
chickadee pairs became active, Narango and Rajbhandary quantified the
amount of native and nonnative woody vegetation within each pair’s
territory and measured the abundance of caterpillars and other insects
feeding on the plants.
Preliminary Results: In 2014, chickadees built nests in 55 out of 101
yards. At about half those sites, Narango’s team conducted more
extensive research, including mist netting and color banding adults,
measuring nestling growth and video recording adults feeding their
offspring. (The female in my yard was named for her green and hot-pink
leg bands.) Color banding (yellow band on chick, right) allowed the
researchers to identify individuals from a distance so they could follow the
birds and record where they foraged. Because chickadees are
“synchronous nesters”—with mating, egg laying, hatching and fledging
all happening at about the same time during the April-to-June breeding
season—“the birds keep us pretty busy for a few months,” Narango says.
With another season of fieldwork to go—along with hundreds of hours
of data analysis—Narango’s results so far are preliminary. Nonetheless,
“some interesting patterns are emerging that are consistent with our
predictions,” Marra says. For one thing, the researchers have found that
chickadees are more likely to set up territories and nest in yards
dominated by native plants. “If more than half your vegetation is native,
there’s an excellent chance you will get chickadees,” Narango says. “If
you have a lot of trees that are not native, to the birds it’s almost like there
are no trees at all.”
Article Continues on Page 17
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 17
Why Birds Need Native Trees—Continued From Page 16
Landscaping For Birds: The team also discovered that “chickadees
indeed prefer to forage on native rather than non-native trees—
overwhelmingly so,” Narango says. (Map below shows the amount of time
the birds spent foraging in different tree species in and around my yard.
Ignoring non-natives close to the nest—yellow star—chickadees preferred
to fly farther to natives such as American elm, black cherry and several
oak species.)
Guadalupe Junco
DID YOU KNOW?
Get the facts about one of winter’s favorite birds—the Junco
Source: ‘Birds & Blooms’, January 2015
Named for its natural habitat of Guadalupe Island, the
Guadalupe Junco, unique to Mexico, is now endangered—there
may be fewer than 100 left in the world.
" Attract Juncos to your backyard feeder with millet. This small
seed comes in two types—red and white.
When the researchers sampled insect prey on the trees, they found
approximately the same overall number on native and exotic species, but
the number and diversity of caterpillars was lower on exotics. “Non-native
trees may support insects, but they do not support the insects that birds
want and need to feed their young,” Narango says.
After this year’s season ends in June, Narango plans to complete her
data analysis, which should reveal how chickadee reproductive success
and nestling growth correlate with native versus non-native trees. Once
the data are in and published, Tallamy says, “we hope people will begin to
think more about birds when they make landscaping decisions.”
Even without these data, watching Aluminum/Green, Hot Pink and her
mate forage in my yard already has me convinced. Beyond chickadees
and other resident birds, Narango’s team recorded a dizzying array of
insect-dependent migrants—from scarlet tanagers to warbling vireos to
black-and-white warblers—passing through my neighborhood on their way
to breeding grounds. To provide the insect prey these birds need, my
gardening chores this spring may include a new task: removing a few
crape myrtle trees and replacing them with natives.
Feeding Hungry Chicks: As part of their research, Narango and her
colleagues filmed a subset of their nests for six-hour periods twice during
the breeding season to record what chickadees were feeding their
offspring. The result was hundreds of hours of video that the biologists still
are analyzing.■
Article Submitted by Sue Styer, Certified Master Gardener
" Dark-Eyed Juncos make their home in woodland areas and
can live to be 11 years old.
" The many subspecies of Dark-Eyed Juncos fall into five major
groups—Gray-Header, Oregon, Pink-Sided, Slate-Colored,
and White-Winged.
" Dark-Eyed Juncos are nickname ‘snowbirds’, as they seem to
bring snowy winter weather on their wings. In the colder
months they travel in flocks of 15 to 25 from the evergreen
forests to backyards all over the U.S.
" Baby, it’s cold outside! Juncos grow down jackets. Their coat
of feathers is 30 percent heavier in winter than in summer.
" Beginning in 1924, biologist William Rowan’s research on
Dark-Eyed Juncos revealed that these migratory birds respond
to changes in daylight than temperature.
" Sure, they’ve got wings, but Juncos prefer to hop around the
forest floor; spending as much as 65% of their time on the
ground.
Dark-Eyed Junco
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
INVASIVE PLANTS
Himalayan Blackberry
(Rubus armeniacus)
Origin.
Armenia, Iran, Eurasia
Common Names. Armenian Blackberry or Himalaya Berry
Distribution.
Pacific Northwest and Western U.S.
Description:
Himalayan Blackberry (Rubus armeniacus) is an
introduced, perennial and spreading woody shrub. It is native to Armenia
and Northern Iran, and widely naturalized elsewhere. Of the 11 species of
Rubus in California, four were introduced primarily from Eurasia. Most
species of wild blackberry, also called brambles, provide important sources
of food and cover for many birds and mammals.
It is very weedy and widely listed as a noxious weed in many states.
Himalayan and Evergreen blackberry are European species of blackberry
that are highly invasive and difficult to control. Originally introduced for fruit
production, they are now naturalized and widespread particularly throughout
the Pacific Northwest.
Himalayan Blackberry is easy to spot by its large, vigorous, thicket-forming
growth and sharp spines covering the stems. Rubus armeniacus soon
escaped from cultivation and became an invasive species in most of the
temperate world. Because it is so hard to contain, it quickly got out of control,
with birds and other animals eating the fruit and then spreading the seeds.
Himalayan Blackberry is easily distinguishable from other wild blackberries
by its five distinct leaflets (shown above), each one toothed and usually oval.
Page 18
Uses:
Himalayan Blackberry fruits are highly edible and commonly
collected by berry pickers. The fruit can be canned, frozen, or
eaten fresh. It was used in the development of the hybrid
‘Marionberry’ cultivar, ‘Marion’.
Blackberry thickets create highly effective barriers that can
control human, wildlife, and domestic livestock access.
Wildlife: Provides important source of food and cover for many birds
and mammals—they have aided in spread of this invasive
plant.
Control: Controlling Himalayan Blackberry requires persistence
because it frequently requires two or more years of intense effort to rid
a stand. (Source: USDA Plant Guide Fact Sheet)
… Clipping the plant to the ground is relatively ineffective unless the
clippings are routinely made whenever the canes reach 2 feet.
Clipping when the canes are shorter will reduce the vigor of the stand
but does not deplete the energy reserves as fast.
… Plastic and woven barrier fabrics fail to provide much control after the
first year they are installed. Once the barrier begins to breakdown or
tear, the canes grow through. Newer heavy-duty fabrics are better
but require proper installation.
… Burning a thicket is not very effective. The temperatures rarely are
hot enough to destroy the rhizomes. However, burning can be a
good initial treatment because it reduces the top growth and makes
application of other treatments far easier.
… Digging can be very effective. Removing the rhizomes and crowns to
a 6-inch depth will greatly reduce the amount of regrowth. The
regrowth can be easily handled. It is imperative to plant desirable
vegetation on the site or blackberry (or another weed) will simply
reinvade.
…Disking and/or cultivating need to be practiced routinely to rid a stand.
This practice can spread rhizomes and aggravate the situation. More
than one operation is needed and these additional operations should
be planned into the next year.
… Several herbicides provide excellent control of blackberry.■
"Article References"
Himalayan Blackberry has showy flowers (shown above) that form in large
clusters at the end of shoots. Each flower is about 1-inch across with five
white or pink petals. The fruits are black and tasty when ripe. New canes are
produced each year from the crown (the base of the plant), replacing those
that die naturally. New plants start from crown regrowth, rhizomes
(horizontal, underground shoots), and seeds that germinate in fall and
spring. Reproduction is similar for the other blackberry species.
Controlling Himalayan Blackberry in the Pacific Northwest on
‘Invasives.org’ at link:
http://www.invasive.org/gist/moredocs/rubarm01.pdf
Himalayan Blackberry on ‘King County Washington Noxious Weeds’
website at link:
http://www.kingcounty.gov/environment/animalsAndPlants/noxiou
s-weeds/weed-identification/blackberry.aspx
Himalayan Blackberry on ‘USDA Plant Guide’ at link:
http://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=RUAR9
Rubus armeniacus on ‘Wikipedia’ at link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubus_armeniacus
Wild Blackberries on ‘UC Davis Pest Notes’ at link:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PDF/PESTNOTES/pnwildblackberries.pdf
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Rubber Rabbitbrush
(Chryothamnus nauseosus)
Source: New Mexico Rangeland Plants, NMSU Circular 374
Revised by Christopher D. Allison & Nick Ashcroft, Nov. 2011
Description: Deep rooted, much-branched shrub. Twenty to 40 inches
tall. Small, yellow flower heads clustered at the ends of
stems. Narrow-linear leaves, 1 to 3 inches long, less than
1/8 inches wide, gray-green. Stems often white and felty
with a grayish cast. Contains a high-grade rubber called
chrysil, especially in the lower woody portions.
!
Occurrence: Throughout the northwestern part of New Mexico, on
breaks and gravelly, rocky, and bottomland sites in the
southern desert. Also at high altitudes in the mountain
areas from 5,500 to 8,000 feet.
!
Forage Value & Management:
Under normal conditions this plant has little or no forage
value. All classes of stock graze the flower tops lightly and
occasionally eat small amount of leaves and young stems
from September to November. Heavy grazing usually
indicates an overstocked range.■
Page 19
Skunkbrush Sumac
(Rhus trilobata Nutt.)
Source: New Mexico Rangeland Plants, NMSU Circular 374
Revised by Christopher D. Allison & Nick Ashcroft, Nov. 2011
Description: Many-branched shrub. Two to 7 feet tall.
Conspicuously 3-lobed leaves have a disagreeable
odor when crushed. Bright red berry-like fruits
(shown below), acid to taste, were often eaten by
Indians.
Occurrence: Widely distributed over New Mexico except for the
northwestern high desert regions. Most commonly
inhabits rocky, gravelly, or sandy sites and
frequently bottomland areas from 3,100 to 9,000
feet.
Forage Value & Management:
The palatability of Skunkbrush is distinctly low, but
both cattle and sheep will graze it when lacking more
palatable herbaceous vegetation. Palatability is rated
much higher for goats.■
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 20
How To Grow:
Cauliflower
Best Site:
(Brassica oleracea)
Source: Western Garden Book of Edibles
A Complete A to Z Guide to Growing Your Own Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit
Publisher: Sunset Publishing Corp., 2010
Botanical Name: Brassica oleracea (Botrytis group)
Family:
Cabbage (Brassicaceae); cool-season vegetable.
The name Cauliflower comes from Latin caulis (cabbage) and flower, an
acknowledgment of its unusual place among a family of food plants that
normally produces only leafy greens for eating. Brassica oleracea also
includes cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale, broccoli and collard greens,
though they are of different cultivar groups.
Type:
Annual or Biennial, grown as an annual
Growing Zones: All
Conditions:
Full sun and regular watering
History:
Like broccoli and cabbage, Cauliflower is a member
of the genus Brassica and is thought to have originated in the
Mediterranean region. All share similar cultural requirements, but
Cauliflower is more difficult to grow than the other two plants.
Cauliflower originated over 2,000 years ago in the gardens of Asia
Minor and the Mediterranean. It was consumed throughout Western
Europe around 16th century. China and India are the top producers of
Cauliflower and broccoli. About half of all Cauliflower is raised in China
and one fourth in India. In Europe and in U.S, it is grown in Spain and
California respectively.
Cultural Concerns: Gardeners in cool, humid regions will have the
easiest time of it; where summers are hot, select heat-tolerant varieties
and time your planting to harvest well before or well after midsummer.
Cauliflower grows 1-3 feet tall, with large, cabbage leaves surrounding a
white edible head that is sometimes called a curd. Home gardeners
usually plant an early variety such as ‘Snow Crown’ or later-season selfblanching varieties such as ‘Amazing’ or ‘Fremont’. There is also a passel
of varieties with colored heads: ‘Cheddar’ (orange), ‘Graffiti’ (purple) and
‘Panther’ (green) are examples.
Romanesco varieties such as ‘Orbit’ and ‘Veronica’ are sometimes listed
as broccolis. Their flavor is milder and sweeter than broccoli; head color is
chartreuse; and shape is rounded, pointy, and spiraled, looking like a
cross between a Cauliflower and the head of a medieval mace.
Full sun, but be sure to protect developing heads from the
sun or get a self-blanching variety.
Yield:
Eight to ten pounds per 10-foot row.
Soil. :
Fertile, well-drained soil.
Planting: Start with small plants; seed is more difficult.
Spacing:
Space plants 1½ feet apart in rows that are 3 feet apart.
Water:
Keep plants growing vigorously by keeping soil moist;
supply regular deep irrigation during dry periods.
Fertilizer: Make one or two applications of complete commercial
fertilizer before heads start to form.
Pruning/
When heads first appear, tie up the large leaves around
Training: them to keep them white. (Leaves of self-blanching
varieties curl over developing heads without assistance.)
Harvest:
Cut heads as soon as they reach full size. Most varieties
are ready to harvest 50 to 100 days from transplanting;
overwintering types may take 6 months. Cauliflower is
nutritious, and may be eaten cooked, raw or pickled.
Challenges: Be sure to keep plants actively growing by watering
steadily and fertilizing on schedule; any check in growth is
likely to cause premature setting of under-size heads. Be
sure to water your Cauliflower every 5 to 7 days. This is
required for your plants to produce nice heads. This plant
is very sensitive to both over-watering and under-watering.
Pests:
Cauliflower has the some potential pests as cabbage. To
prevent soilborne pest buildup, plant in a different site
each year. Row covers will protect plans from aphids,
cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, and cabbage
root maggots. Collars made from paper cups or metal
cans (with ends removed) deter cutworms, which chew off
seedlings at the base. Bacillus thuringiensus (Bt) can be
applied to control young larvae of cabbageworms and
cabbage loopers on plants.!
Some additional information for this article was provided by a
NMSU article entitled, “Cultural Growing Practices and Varieties for New
Mexico” Circular 457 by G. Dickerson that is no longer in print.
However, copies are available in the MG Hotline Library.
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Endive
Page 21
Escarole
Endive & Escarole
(Cichorium endive)
Source: Western Garden Book of Edibles
A Complete A to Z Guide to Growing Your Own Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit
Publisher: Sunset Publishing Corp., 2010
Botanical Name:
Family:
Type:
Growing Zones:
Conditions:
Description:
Brassica oleracea (Botrytis group)
Asteraceae (Sunflower Family); cool-season vegetable
Annual or Biennial
All
Full sun and regular watering
The Mediterranean species includes curly endive (also
called frisée) as well as broad-leafed endive (escarole),
both of which form rosettes of leaves. Though they
tolerate more heat than lettuce does, they grow faster in
cold weather, maturing in 90 to 95 days from seed.
‘Green Curled’, ‘Keystone’, ‘Rhodos’, and ‘Salad
King’ are standard curly endives. Broad-leaved
‘Batavian’, ‘Full-Hearted Batavian’, and ‘Full Heart NR
65’ are good full-leaved varieties.
Belgian or French endives are the blanched sprouts
of a kind of chicory.
How To Grow:
Best Site:
Yield:
Soil:
Planting:
Spacing:
Water:
Fertilizer:
Pruning/
Training:
Harvest:
Pests:
Both varieties take full sun.
Three to six pounds per 10-foot row.
Rich soil well amended with compost or rotted manure.
In cold-winter areas, snow from spring into summer; in
mid-winter climates, sow so that plants mature after
summer heat is past. In containers, plant in wide
containers that are at least 6 inches deep.
Seed thinly in rows 15-18 inches apart, then thin plants to
12 inches apart.
Keep soil moist.
Apply complete fertilizer after active growth starts.
When plants have reached full size (a foot across), pull
outer leaves over the center and tie them up at top (but
not when they’re wet, as that may cause decay.)
Covered center leaves will blanch to yellow or white; the
process keeps the taste from becoming too bitter. Endive
can also be used unblanched by harvesting the outer
leaves, as for Swiss chard.
Pick outer leaves from young plants. Pull up the entire
plant when it matures, 85 to 100 days after sowing.
Plants can be bothered by aphids, armyworms, flea
beetles, leafhoppers, snails and slugs, and downy mildew.
Row covers help manage insect problems, bait or
handpicking controls snails and slugs; and good air
circulation minimizes mildew.!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 22
MG INTERN PROFILE
Mike Cook Explores New Aspects of Gardening
Master Gardener Intern Mike Cook has been gardening in
Las Cruces for about 20 years. He lives in west Las Cruces
near Picacho Boulevard and the railroad tracks, and has
about 1,000 square feet available for gardening.
Before that, Mike put his hands in the dirt in Deming. He
says he has been an active gardener for 35-40 years. His
favorite things to grow are flowers, especially Morning
Glories.
Epic Tomatoes
Author: Craig LeHoullier (Catalog #RB0378)
Epic Tomatoes contains everything a tomato-growing enthusiast
needs to know about growing over 200 varieties of tomatoes how to
sow, plant, cultivate, and collect seeds. It also offers profiles of 33
varieties, and the author’s list of the top ten tastiest tomatoes, and a
comprehensive guide to pests and diseases of tomatoes. No other book
offers such a detailed look at the specifics of growing tomatoes, from
the point of view of a true expert, with beautiful photographs and tomato
profiles throughout. (Softcover, 256 pages $19.95)
“Perhaps the single most important catalyst for this book was joining
Seed Savers Exchange in 1986. Much of my gardening journey
between then and today is described in the tomatoes I’ve featured.
Most were requested from Seed Savers Yearbook and hold special
significance to me. This great relationship continues to this day and
hopefully for many years to come.” (Author: Craig LeHoullier)
Link to SeedSavers Website:
http://www.seedsavers.org/onlinestore/Gardening-Books/EpicTomatoes.html
Article Provided by Dale Petzold, Certified Master Gardener
Like many of us, Mike decided to enroll in the Master
Gardener Program to learn more about gardening in general
and what works best in our local climate.
“One of the coolest things from the Master Gardener
Program was discovering that, in addition to orange, carrots
come in purple, red, white and yellow,” Mike states. “It has
inspired me to plant a vegetable garden for the first time in
my life.”
Mike finds horticulture/botany fascinating. He liked the fact
that the Master Gardener Program gives you a chance to
meet and learn from some of the leading experts in the state
and region on all kinds of related issues.
Although not currently employed, Mike’s endeavors have
principally been in communications, government and
tourism. In addition to gardening, Mike also enjoys acting,
working out and reading.!
Profile Developed by Ann Palormo
Certified Master Gardener
!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
Page 23
MASTER GARDENER MONTHLY MEETING: January 14, 2015
Notetaker: Sue Styer, Certified MG ! Introduction and Welcome - Jeff Anderson
COMMITTEE/PROJECT REPORTS
" Introduction and Welcome - Jeff mentioned that Kari Getkin was at the meeting for a short time to collect money for graduation tickets. We
needed a final count of the participants that day.
" MG Hotline (David & Gail Ross): David noted that he and Gail had taken over coordination of the Hotline temporarily for Louis Worley. David
thanked everyone for his or her cooperation in 2014. He also mentioned that the Hotline schedule is full for February. He also noted that four
people – 2 MGs and 2 Interns – are the maximum number of individuals that can fit in the Hotline room at one time.
" MG Magazine (Ann Shine-Ring): Ann reminded us that there was a signup list in the back for Refreshments for this year. Please sign up.
Ann also maintains the pink binder in the Hotline room that lists 28 pages of Hotline Library resources. If volunteers discover outdated
articles/resources please let Ann know. Also, if we need to add information into our Hotline Library, please let her know. Soon, Ann will be
updating our Doña Ana County MG Contact List so tell her if you have changes in your contact info.
Planned articles for the February 2015 Magazine were:
Plant of the Month:
Japanese Scholar or Chinese Pagoda Tree (Styphnolobium japonicum)
Water-Wise Plant of the Month: Little-Leaf Cordia
Articles of Interest:
Top Ten Best of Roses, Basic Rose Pruning, Tips for Pruning Roses, Five Essential Tools for Pruning
Roses, A Rose Calendar for Las Cruces & El Paso, and Composting with Worms
Pests:
Cicada Killer Wasp
Wildlife:
Facts About the Junco Bird, Why Birds Need Native Trees
Veggies/Fruit:
Cauliflower, Endive and Escarole and Epic Tomatoes (new resource book)
Invasive Weed:
Himalayan Blackberry
Rangeland Shrubs:
Rubber Rabbitbrush and Skunkbrush Sumac
Book:
The Creative Shrub Garden
UPDATE REPORTS
• MG Graduation (Juliet Williams) January 17, 2015–Juliet gave us the security code for the gate at Trails West. Trails West personnel have
mentioned that it is not prudent to try to follow another car through the gate as they have sped up the gate up/down rotations. There will be a
brief Committee meeting today to discuss setup, checking in, serving the meal etc. Juliet prompted that we still needed door prizes. MGs
may drop them off at the office. Jeff planned to do awards and will pick up tablecloths. We need to check on who plans to take photos. Gail
Ross will bring food service-acceptable gloves and Jack Blandford, Luna County Ag Agent, will be the guest speaker.
COMMUNITY GARDENS
• Hospice Garden, Munson Center Garden and Gomez Garden—all are on seasonal maintenance.
OLD/N EW/C ONTINUING PROJECTS:
• Chile Conference – Feb. 2-3, 2015- Jeff said we have enough volunteers. Pamela is in charge and two Interns, Ophelia and Patrick, will be
assisting. The Institute will be setting up the booth.
• Western Pecan Growers Association Conference (Jeff) – March 1-3, 2015 No real information has come in yet on this.
• Home and Garden Show (Tracy) March 7-8, 2015 Tracy has signup sheets in the back for this event.
• Senior Expo – April 3-4 Gail and David Ross – Nothing yet. (Subsequently, MG volunteer involvement for this event has been cancelled.)
• Lush and Lean (Jeff) – 2/19/15 First class will begin very shortly. Jeff will be the speaker for gray water harvesting. It is a Thursday
evening, after work event.
• Tour of Gardens – Usually the first Saturday in May – May 2? Marjie Snell will be the Coordinator for MG volunteers. There will be 6
gardens. It is too early for volunteer sign up. Jeff’s garden will be one of the featured gardens.
• Crepe Myrtles There were two free pink crepe myrtles given away. They were volunteers from Jeff’s garden.
• Agricultural Employee Forum – Next Wednesday 1/21/15 at the government complex on Motel Blvd. It is free to the public (including
lunch); it will run from 8am to 2 pm. Ann had already sent the information out to MGs.
• CoCoRaHS (Alberta Morgan) Ten-year volunteer participants will be honored—they’ll be invited to attend a weather conference in March.
OTHER INFORMATION:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Organic Conference in ABQ – February 20-21, 2015
Native Plant Society Meeting tonight (Dael Goodman)
Jeff on vacation next Tuesday to 1/28/15
Success with mandarin orange tree down to 10 degrees at Jeff’s house
Water Festival will be held April 16, 2015
Regional Water Planning being done now and Joan, Dael and Debra are involved.
Downtown Plaza continued changes/additional construction being considered – Jeff had attended a meeting.
Minutes Continued on Page 24
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—February 2015
!
Page 24
January 14, 2015 Monthly MG Meeting Minutes—Continued from Page 23
FUTURE PROGRAM PLANNING:
Discussion on Taking A New Direction--Ideas to Consider (Jeff and Dael):
… What kind of events do we want to participate in this year? Discussion centered on doing an external conference for the public and/or giving
classes/answering questions at local nursery locations; putting information at local locations etc. Dael requested that we respond via e-mail with
suggested 2015 topics for speakers.
… Ideas were discussed that would make changes to the business meeting for a better flow and more consistent end time so as not to keep our
speakers waiting. More to be discussed later…
Thank you to Nancy DeLouise, Lisa Phelps and Ann Shine-Ring for providing our meeting refreshments.
EDUCATIONAL P ROGRAM: PLANNING FOR 2015
#
NEXT MONTHLY MEETING, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 11TH AT BRANIGAN LIBRARY, ROADRUNNER ROOM
Our meeting time is 9:15am to 11:30am
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To All Master Gardeners & Interns:
We understand that some Hotline Duty volunteers cannot always attend our Monthly Meetings. However, we
want to thank you for your volunteer time on our important Hotline.
This year, we have many Interns to train on Hotline, and would appreciate Certified MGs volunteering to be
mentors. Some reminders: 1) please show up 15 minutes before Hotline starts and 2) if you cannot do Hotline duty,
be sure to get a backup volunteer or contact Kari Getkin (575) 525.6649 in the front office. Thanks for your support.
MASTER GARDENER HOTLINE DUTY
As of September 11, 2013, per MG request, Hotline duty signups will no longer
be listed in this Magazine. As of 1/8/14, we now can sign up for Hotline Duty online
at the same website location where we now record our Volunteer Service hours.
Connect to link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/county/donaana/mastergardener/ and
click on Volunteer Hours Logging and you can click on either:
“Go to my log sheets” or “Go to my Calendar”
We are very grateful to Eric Graham, Certified MG, for donating many
hours to create this great new resource for MGs. Thank you!
!
IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him or her
a “reminder” call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for your information.
As of Monday, March 11, 2013, the Doña Ana County Extension Office hours changed to 9am–12 for
receiving public phone calls and office visits Monday through Friday. However, Hotline volunteers will still
be on duty from 9am to 1pm on Tuesdays and Fridays.
URGENT:
We need at least 2 MGs at each Hotline Day, but please no more than four MG volunteers max as there is not
enough room in the Hotline Office. Please consider volunteering for at least one, four-hour assignment to
ensure we have adequate coverage for our Hotline. Thank you for your help.